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Official Hummer H1 Build Diary - Stages 49 - 56 Options
#1 Posted : 09 January 2014 18:48:15

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Stage 49 - Contains the bull bar & fittings, window frames, wipers and the front bumper.

You can if you wish, paint the front bull bar and rear bumper to match the body colour at this stage, though you may also want to consider the additional items added to both in the next stage.

Remove the front and rear bumper mounts attached in Stage 44, keep the screws safe.

Familiarise yourself with the orientation of the rear bumper base supplied with Stage 44. Holding the rear bumper and its base, join the parts so that the three nibs on the base fit into the corresponding holes on the bumper itself, and press together.

Hold the removed rear bumper mount, line up the three nibs to the holes on the mount, join the parts and press together firmly so that the nibs enter the corresponding holes.

Place one of the 2x6mm self-tapping screws into the hole in the right of the rear bumper mount. Then tighten the screw with the screwdriver, being sure not to overtighten. Then repeat for the hole on the left side and centre.

Join the front bumper and front bumper mount, by first, pushing the two circular projections into their corresponding holes, then join the three smaller pins. Press the parts together firmly so that they fit snugly.

Place a 2x6mm self-tapping screw into the hole on the back-right edge of the front bumper mount, tighten with a screwdriver, then repeat for the hole at the left of the bumper mount.

Hold the bull bar base so that the circled nibs are facing you, then slide the left bull bar arm over the slot at the end, with its inside also facing you, the fit the right bull bar arm.

Line up the centre bar of the bull bar with the circular recess on the inside of the right bull bar arm. It does not matter which end is fitted first.
Fit the tip of the bar into the hole, then keeping the first end of the centre bar inside the hole, angle it round so that you can fit the other end into the corresponding hole on the inside of the left arm. Press the tip into the hole. Make sure both ends of the centre bar are fully inserted. The arms should be sitting parallel to each other. Apply some liquid plastic glue to the areas indicated and set aside to dry.

Familiarise yourself with the bull bar mounts. Slide the left bull bar mount onto the tip of the left end of the bar base so that the tip sits inside the recessed section. Push the left bull bar mount over the tip of the base so that the specially shaped tip is accommodated fully within the bull bar mount.

Apply a small amount of plastic adhesive to the section indicated, wait for the adhesive to dry, then repeat to fit the right bull bar mount.

Familiarise yourself with the bull bars themselves. Lay the part out on your work surface: you will see that they rise up slightly towards the front. Line up the bull bars to the bull bar mount and base assembly. Position the bull bars so that the tips fit into the recessed holes on the outside of the left bull bar arm and mount respectively. Next, you will fit the corresponding tips on the right of the bull bars. To do this, you will need to bend the part slightly. Be very careful and bend slowly.

When the tips of the bull bars are in place, apply a little plastic adhesive along the joint. Leave the parts to dry, then repeat the process for the corresponding joint on the other side of the bars.

Once the adhesive has dried, hold the bull bar assembly next to the front bumper and mount assembly. The two small pairs of holes on the front bumper assembly will accommodate the pair of nibs on the bull bar mounts. Press the parts together so that the nibs fit into the holes and the parts remain in contact.
Apply plastic adhesive to the joint and wait for it to dry. Repeat this for the corresponding joint on the other side of the mounts.

Finally, reattach the rear bumper assembly to the underside of the main chassis assembly by reinserting and tightening the screws removed.
Once the adhesive securing the front bumper assembly has dried, reattach it to the main chassis with the removed screws.
Tomick attached the following image(s):
#2 Posted : 15 January 2014 14:44:41

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Stage 50 - Contains exterior body components.

You have been supplied with two identical sets of plastic parts. The numbering is the same for both, though some of the duplicates are surplus to requirements.

Before you begin fitting the external parts, you should prepare all the parts needed in this stage. Several of the parts have mould remnants left over from the injection process. These highlighted areas must be removed, as they are not part of the component itself, but take care not to remove any fixing pins.

Retrieve both rear door hinge strips supplied with Stage 49. Test-fit then glue thee in place. Fit the left rear door hinge so that the thinner section of the hinge fits into the groove of the door.

Retrieve the window frames provided with Stage 49. Take the rear window frames note of which is the front and back side, (the front inside rim is stepped).
Press the window frame back side first into the wondow space on the left rear door. Make sure the stepped side (front) is facing out. Temporarily hold the frame in place with masking tape, then fit the right rear window frame.
In the same way, fit all the windows with their respective frames supplied in Stage 49. Hold each one with masking tape, making sure the front side of each is facing outwards.

Apply glue to the inside joint of each window frame, allow to dry, then remove the masking tape, (be careful not to apply too much adhesive that it runs to the outside).

Take the six door handles. Place a door handle onto the slot on the first door. There is a small projection at the top of the handle, which is designed to fit into the specially-shaped hole.
Press the handle into place so that it is sitting straight into the hole. If the part is tight, rub down its edges very gently with a fine file. Apply glue to the joint between the handle and door panel on the inside.

Repeat to fit/glue the remainig handles onto all six doors.

Pllace the left bonnet buckle onto its spot on the left side of the bonnet, press the buckle into place firmly. Then repeat for the right buckle, then apply glue to the buckle nibs on the inside.

Take a fuel cap and base, fit the cap into the fuel cap base as shown in the instructions, (this is the forward fuel cap).

Take a second (rear) fuel cap (no base is fitted to this cap).

Now take the decal sheet supplied in Stage 2. Decal 6 is used for the front fuel cap, and decal 7 for the rear. Use tweezers to carefully apply the stickers to both fuel caps, as shown in the instructions.

Place the rear fuel cap (the smaller one) into the rear fuel cap exterior, and glue the cap in place. Then place the exterior into the space at the rear of the body panelling.

Next, place the front fuel cap into the large exterior, glue it in place then place the exterior into the corresponding space at the front of the body panelling.

Holding both fuel cap assemblies in place, turn the body over and apply glue to the joint between each part and the body panelling.

Next, push the licence plate base onto the left edge of the rear bumper (attached to the main chassis assembly in Stage 39). The four pins on the back of the number plate base should fit into the bumper. When the plate base is sitting snug to the bumper, line the inside edge with liguid glue.

Place the towing hook base into the raised section on the rear bumper. Turn the chassis upside down and apply a line of liquid glue to the bottom joint.

Fit both rear bumper hooks into their bases as shown in the instructions. Locate the pair of holes on the left of the rear bumper, apply some glue to the back of one of the bumper hook bases, then fit the hoof in place and repeat with the second hook at the opposite end of the bumper.

Paint the plug cover silver. Then apply glue to the back of the cover, then fix to the right of the rear bumper.

Fit the two front bumper hooks into their bases in the same way you did for the rear ones. Apply glue to the bases and fit them into the pin holes on the front bumper.

Carefully store the remaining parts.
Tomick attached the following image(s):
#3 Posted : 16 January 2014 13:37:52

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Stage 51 - Contains Transparent exterior bodywork components and fittings.

Preparing and filling the shock absorbers:

The four shock absorbers need to be filled with the shock oil provided in Stage 9 and sealed before being mounted. During this process, it is important that no air bubbles are trapped inside the chamber of the absorbers.
Carefully follow the filling instructions, then assemble the springs onto the shocks as shown. Note that the front and rear springs differ in coil number.

Shock oil: Thinner oil has a low viscosity and flows more quickly from one side of the piston to the other. As a result, the shock compresses more easily and then extends again. It will absorb more energy and transmit fewer shocks to the chassis, so the behaviour of the vehicle becomes 'softer', and the wheels are less likely to lose contact with the surface when passing over bumps. However, a softly sprung vehicle will roll more when cornering and will tend to break away more.

The shock oil supplied with your Hummer has medium viscosity. This ensures balanced driving behaviour on bumpy as well as smoother surfaces.

Another way you can adapt the road holding on your model is by fitting different springs. Hard springs offer high resistance to compression, the chassis will roll less than it would with softer springs fitted. The car will be more stable to control, but on very bumpy surfaces, a high rate can mean that the vehicle often leaves the ground.

Mounting the shock absorbers onto the chassis:

Using the cross wrench and 2.5mm allen key, remove the ball pivots and 3mm flange nuts from the left and right sides of the rear shock stay. Then remove the 3x20mm cap screw from the shock and keep to one side.

Inspect the tops of the shocks. There is a small projection beneath the hole on one side. The hole is wider on the side without this projection (see Step 10). Place the ball head of the ball pivot next to the socket of the first rear shock absorber. Do this on the side without the projection. Position the pivot ball perpendicularly, then click into place using needle-nose pliers.

Re-insert the cap screw (removed ealier) into the hole in the top of the pivot ball, then position back through the hole in the right side of the rear shock stay. Place one of the 3mm flange nuts back onto the tip, then tighten by hand.
Holding the shock in place at the top, pivot it down so that the lower end fits into the groove shown on the rear right suspension arm. Insert a 3x20mm screw shaft you have previously (provided with Stage 9) through
the hole in the lower suspension arm, so that it fits through the hole in the ball end, then tighten the screw with the screwdriver.

Repeat to attach the remaining shocks to the shock mounts and lower suspension arms. At the front, fasten the pivot ball and 3mm flange nut to the middle of the three holes on the shock mount, (the front shock mount parts were provided at Stage 9).

Fitting the Wheels:

Remove the 6mm flange nut from the front left wheel hub. Place the first pre-assembled wheel and tyre over the tip of the wheel shaft so that the hexagonally shaped recess on the inside of the wheel fits snugly over the wheel hub. Press the wheel and tyre into place firmly, making sure you apply even pressure. Re-attach the 6mm flange nut, tightening by hand. (Be sure that the drive hexagon is properly engaged with the wheel socket). Then, using the arm of the cross wrench marked ‘10’, tighten the flange nut fully.

Repeat to fit the remaining three wheels.

You may notice that the rear wheels toe-in, this is intentional and not a fault or defect, which allows the car to drive straight.

Fitting the body:

Remove the roof panels from the body.

Lay the bodywork on its left side and locate the mounting post to the bottom of the left rear door panel. The first rubber mounting block will fit onto this, with its pin facing downwards.
Press the block bar onto the post, then lay a 3mm washer on top of the visible tip of the post, with its rounded side facing down. Then place a 3x12mm bindinghead self-tapping screw into the hole in the washer and post. Tighten with a screwdriver, then repeat on the other three posts for the remaining mounting blocks.

Carefully place the bodywork assembly on top of the chassis. Push the four mounting bars into the matching holes on the chassis plate. When all four are in, adjust the bodywork so it is sitting centrally.
Hold the body frame in place, then, placing a finger on the flange nut inside the chassis, tighten the 3x10mm binding-head screw near the rear right wheel.

Repeat for all four screws and flange nuts near the wheels.

Now, remove the bodywork, and in the same way, tighten the screws in the middle of the chassis plates.

Glue the bonnet hooks into the slots on either side of the bonnet, (the tip with the thin projection should face the windscreen). Also glue the airfilter gasket in place, next to the air filter, pushing the pins into the corresponding holes.

Replace the body, fitting the mounting pins back through the holes in the chassis. Then, slide an 'R' pin (provided in a previous stage) through the hole in each body pin, so that it secures the body in place.

Bodywork transparent parts:

You will require a clear red and clear orange paint, (such as Tamiya X27/X26). Paint the indicated transparent parts as shown at Step 3 of page 243 in their respective colour. Note that further clear parts painting guidance is provided in the image at Step 26 of Stage 52.

You have a choice of which tail light type to have on your model:
Part #7 is the USA tail light, and part #8 is the International/Export type. Finish your choice of light as shown in the instructions, (I have chosen the USA version #7.

The transparent parts are completed and fitted in the next Stage of assembly.

Tomick attached the following image(s):
#4 Posted : 17 January 2014 16:22:36

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Joined: 24/08/2009
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Stage 52 - Contains a window glazing set and washers.

Remove the body from the chassis and carefully set aside the body R pins.

Paint the interior of the tail light housing parts, silver. Then after having painted your chosen tail light lens with clear red paint, fit the lens into the housings, then fit them in place on the rear of the bodywork in the correct orientation. Apply glue to the pins at the rear to secure them in place.

To avoid 'frosting' of transparent parts, you should avoid using Superglue, and use an adhesive which is better suited to this purpose, such as Humbrol 'Clear Fix' or 'Formula 560 canopy glue'.

Paint the rim and reverside of both headlamp housings silver. Then fit/glue a lens into each in the correct orientation. Glue the headlamps into the front facia of the bonnet, making sure that you align the mount pin of the headlamp with the hole in the fascia.

Paint the indicator/turn signal lens clear orange and paint the interior of the indicator/turn signal housings, Silver. Glue a the lens onto both housings in the corect orientation, then glue them into the front fascia of the bonnet.

Take the two large orange and two large red-painted side lights. Paint the back side silver and the border black. Once the paint has dried, press the first red light into the pair of holes on the bottom edge of the side panelling behind the rear wheel arch, then apply glue to the visible tips of the nibs on the inside. Repeat to fit the next red light on the opposite side of the body panelling.

In the same way, fit the first of the large orange lights onto the front side of the bonnet.

Take the small red and orange lights prepared in stage 51

Inspect the bases for the smaller lights.You will see that the window light bases are set at an angle. Make a note of which is which from the photo in the instructions before proceeding. You will need three part #16 (one is spare) and seven part #15 bases (one is spare). Paint the inside face of the bases silver as shown in Stage 50, page 231.

Take the three part #15 bases. Fit a small orange window light lens onto its base, apply glue to the pins at the rear, then fit the first of three orange window lights into the central pair of holes above the windscreen frame. Ensure that is correctly oriented, then apply glue to the pins at the rear to set it in place. Continue to fit two more orange lights, one either side of the first.

Now fit five clear red and two clear orange lights onto seven bases (part #15).

Press the next orange light into the space under the first indicator light. This light should not be angled like the front window lights. Apply plastic adhesive to the inside of the bonnet to seal the part. Repeat for the space under the left indicator.

Similarly, place the last three small red lights onto the run of three spaces beneath the doors, again using a small amount of glue.

Take the licence plate sticker you kept from Stage 1, and carefully cut along the black line to prepare it for fitting to the plate.
You have been supplied with two licence plates. You can use either, but both must be painted silver before proceeding. If you are using the plate with the HUMMER logo, wait until the paint has dried, then carefully apply the decal cut out in Step 33. This should be done on the side without pins.

Apply glue to the back of the plate you have chosen to fit, then place it at the left end of the rear bumper so that the pins align with the holes in the plate carrier.

Inspect the transparent licence plate light. The flat section is the top, which should be painted silver.

Make sure the light is correctly oriented, then glue into the casing hole above the licence plate.

Cut out decal #9 from the sheet provided at Stage 2. Use tweezers to place it horizontally next to the lower right-hand section of the rear bumper.

Cut both the bull bar pins from from the plastic sprues. Glue a pin into the hole on the bull bar mount so that the pin sits straight upwards. Then repeat to fit the other pin into the other bull bar mount.

Carefully store the window glazing and washers until the next stage.
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#5 Posted : 27 January 2014 11:48:24

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Stage 53 - Contains the engine manifold, gasket, silicon joint pipe, cable ties and screws.

You will also need to retrieve the following parts: Window glazing parts and washers provided with Stage 52, Window collars provided at Stage 33, 2x4mm screws x12 provided at Stage 50, 2x6mm screws x2 provided at Stage 49, antenna & side mirrors in Stage 4, Wipers provided at Stage 49, Decal sheet form Stage 2, Wheel caps from Stages 1, 2, 17 & 19 and the front & rear roof panels providd at Stage 35.

Slide the pipe of the manifold into the longer side of the L-shaped silicon joint pipe until a a gap of 3mm is left exposed, then secure the silicon pipe with a cable tie as shown in the instructions. (To achieve good routing of the silencer later on, I suggest that you do not add the cable tie to the manifold at this stage which will permit adjustment of the silencer later on, and fit the tie cable after fitting the exhaust system in Stage 65).


Take the window glazing parts, washers, front roof panel and the 2x4mm screws.

Carefully peel the protective film from both sides of each glazing sheet.

Staring with the windscreen, position it level with the front window frame on the inside of thebodywork. It does not matter which way round the glazing is facing. Press into place so that the window sits inside the window frame.
Next, lower the front roof panel onto the front of the body frame, and carefully press the roof panel into place, applying pressure from the back towards the window frame so that each joint slots into place.

Carefully apply adhesive (not Superglue) to the border and pins of the glazing to set it in place.

Take the first of the front side windows. There is no difference between the left and right side, but make sure the side with the cut corner is at the rear of the pane. Press into the first front side window frame, so that the frame’s pins fit into the slots in the window. In the same way as you did for the front window, apply a small amount of adhesive to the edge of the window and the pins to set it in place. Repeat on the opposite side of the body work.

Now fit and glue the rear side window to the inside of the rear side window frame. Again, the left and right parts are not different, but make sure to align the angled edge as shown in the instructions. Repeat on the opposite side of the body work.

Now fit and glue the first small rear window onto the frame, making sure no adhesive spreads to the visible part of the window. Repeat on the oposite side of the bodywork.

Now take the middle side window. Use the cut corner for orientation and press pane into its frame. Note: DO NOT glue the middle side windows, but instead secure them with four 2x4mm screws in each pane.

Note that the middle side and large rear windows are designed to be removed to provide adeqaute cooling of the engine. Its is recommended that you remove the side middle and rear windows when you run the model, adequate cooling is very important.

Slide the first rear window into the corresponding window frame at the angle shown. The side with no indentations should go in first, (do not glue these windows).
Press the first of the washers (provided in Stage 52) around the screw hole, then repeat for the remaining washers, so that all four are in place.
Place the 2x4mm binding-head screw (provided in Stage 50) and screw into the narrower side of one of the four window collars (provided in Stage 33). Place the combined parts over the first of the window frame’s screw holes, and tighten. Repeat for the remaining three holes to fasten both rear windows into place.


Take the left side mirror and position it next to the front left door, then secure it from the inside with a 2x6mm self-tapping screw (provided in Stage 49) and tighten to secure the mirror. Repeat to fit the right-hand mirror assembly.


Apply a small amount of adhesive to the small nib at the base of the first wiper. Place the wiper into the hole above the front window – it can be set at any angle. Then repeat to fit the second wiper, making
sure to set it at the same angle as the first.

Rear door rubber bushes:

Prepare the various rubber bushes supplied with Stage 51 (rubber bushes Sx2, tapered rubber bushes Sx2 and rubber bushes Wx2), and line them up against the photo in the instructions. Note: the tapered rubber bushes S should only be used if tail lights B have been used (as photographed). The US tail lights A do not need these parts.
Press the first rubber bush S into its hole. Dab with superglue from the inside then repeat for all the bushes – even if tail lights B have been used.
For tail light A assemblies, use a knife to cut off the protruding tip of the tapered rubber bushes S, so that the mounting hole is filled.


Set the antenna into its position just ahead of the left mirror.


Very carefully cut out the first H1 logo from the decal sheet from Stage 2. Peel off the backing with tweezers, then place the decal on the raised ‘H1’ on the side of the bodywork, beneath the antenna. Repeat for the opposite side.

Next, cut out and peel off the TORQ TRACK ELOCKER, and place diagonally below and left of the right indicator/direction light.

Place the first HUMMER sticker below and right of the left fog light. The second HUMMER logo can be placed at the bottom corner of the rear left door, though this is optional.

Cut out the fuel cap wording stickers (Nos. 6 and 7) and apply to the rims of both fuel caps.

Wheel caps:

Take each saved wheel cap and press these into place at the centre of the wheels,(do not glue them).

The body of your RC HUMMER H1 is now complete, though for now I have left the main roof panel off.
Tomick attached the following image(s):
#6 Posted : 27 January 2014 12:15:29

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Joined: 24/08/2009
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Stage 54 - Contains the silencer, exhaust pipe, silencer stay and fittings.

Take the manifold assembly from the previous stage, push the silicon tube onto the inlet end of the silencer.

Next, place the exhaust pipe next onto exhaust exit end of the silencer, longer side first, then adjust the angle of the exhaust pipe so that your assembly resembles the step photo, then secure the exhaust pipe with a cable tie.

Fit the 3x10mm countersunk screw through the hole next to the fuel tank from underside of the chassis, and holding the screw in place with your fingertip, turn the assembly over and place the loop of the shorter arm of the silencer stay over its protruding tip. Still holding the screw head from beneath, place the 3mm flange nut over the tip of the screw, wide side first. Then place the arm of the cross wrench marked ‘5.5’ over the flange nut, and press down on the flange nut to hold the silencer stay in place while using a screwdriver to tighten the screw on the oposite side.
The orientation of the silencer stay beneath the flange nut should reflect the step photo, with the longer arm reaching upwards.

Place the binding-head self-tapping screw into the large spigot at the end of the silencer. Tighten with the screwdriver, but not fully tighten at this stage.

This completes the manifold and silencer assembly.

Tomick attached the following image(s):
#7 Posted : 27 January 2014 12:22:08

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Stage 55 - Contains the engine crankcase, carburettor pin and nut.

Carefully store the crankcase within a sealed pack as it is very important that it does not become dusty or that debris enters any of its openings.
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#8 Posted : 27 January 2014 12:36:07

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Joined: 24/08/2009
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Stage 56 - Contains the crankshaft.

Assembly of the engine should be performed in a dust/debris free environment.

Place the crankshaft into the opening at the rear of the crankcase, as shown in the instructions. Hold the shaft perfectly level with the opening in the crankcase, and slowly push the parts together.

The crankshaft tip should appear in the centre of the rubber-sealed bearing at the front of the crankcase, turn the assembly around and pull the tip of the crankshaft until the rear end rests against the open bearing on the inside of the crankcase, just ahead of the recess for the counterweight.

Store the unit in a sealed plastic bag until the next stage of assembly.
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