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Official Suzuki Hayabusa build diary - Stages 1 - 7 Options
Tomick
#1 Posted : 23 May 2014 18:29:51

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Suzuki Hayabusa GSX 1300R

The Suzuki Hayabusa GSX 1300R is a Sport motorcycle which immediately won acclaim as the world's fastest production motorcycle in 1999, with a top speed approaching 200mph

In 2000, fears of a European regulatory backlash or import ban led to an informal agreement between the Japanese and European manufacturers to limit the top speed of their motorcycles at an arbitrary limit. The conditions under which this limitation was adopted led to the 1999–2000 Hayabusa's title remaining, at least technically, unassailable, since no subsequent model could go faster without being tampered with. Thus, after the much anticipated Kawasaki Ninja ZX-12R of 2000 fell 4mph short of claiming the title, the Hayabusa secured its place as the fastest standard production bike of the 20th century.

Hayabusa is Japanese for "peregrine falcon", a bird that often serves as a metaphor for speed due to its vertical hunting dive, the fastest of any bird. In particular, the choice of name was made because the peregrine falcon preys on Blackbirds, which reflected the intent of the original Hayabusa to unseat the Honda CBR1100XX Super Blackbird as the world's fastest production motorcycle.

The Hayabusa GSX 1300R model:

Official Suzuki licensed 1/4 scale replica of the Hayabusa GSX 1300R (1999)

http://www.youtube.com/w...feature=player_embedded

535mm long, 185mm wide, 290mm high

Weight: 7kgs

No painting required, components are pre-painted and comprise of ABS, HIPS and diecast metal.

Metal engine block and fuel tank with opening lock cover. Operable lighting. Rubber tyres with authentic tread pattern. Operable suspension. Pre-painted bodywork. The series includes a sleek black display base to compliment your model. The base also houses electronics and controls for the lighting and a sound chip and speaker to give authentic engine sound sampled from the actulal bike, (start-up & acceleration). The electronics are infra-red controlled and operated by a Suzuki key.
A paddock stand is also included to support it firmly on the display base. Subscribers will also receive a free Tool box and Screwdriver.

Made of die-cast metal, ABS plastic and thermoplastic rubber, this is a must-have model for any collector or Hayabusa fan. The assembly guide contains clear, step-by-step instructions, accompanied by detailed photos, to make building your model as easy as possible.

Packs 1-6: Front wheel and Forks, Cylinder head and Exhaust.

Packs 7-12: Engine and transmission, Rear wheel and Rear subframe,

Packs 13-18: Rear suspension, Frame and Electronics.

Packs 19-24: Fairing & Bodywork, Lighting and Display base.

Order here: http://suzuki.model-space.com/gb/

Follow the official video build diary here:
https://www.youtube.com/...phSNQJ6JsRCBsSpbmeaHvlf

Tomick attached the following image(s):
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Tomick
#2 Posted : 23 May 2014 18:34:50

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The official build diary will follow the format of the magazine steps, and will not include any enhancement to the base magazine build. You are of course free to build, enhance and finish your model how you so choose.

Please Note: Official build diary images & text are protected under UK copyright law.


Pack 01 contains Stages 1 - 4

Stage 1 - Contains the fuel tank, cap inner & outer and screws.

Identify the front and rear of the cap inner. Then holding the top of the fuel tank upside down, place the fuel cap inner over the post holes on the inside of it and align the holes. Then loosely fit a 2.3×5mm screw into the hole at the front of the cap inner and another into the hole at the rear of the cap, then turn the screws alternately, a small amount at a time, until they are both fully tightened.

Turn the fuel tank over and hold the fuel cap outer, as shown in the instructions. Locate the three holes on the upper side of the fuel cap inner and the three projections on the fuel cap outer. Align the projections and holes of the fuel caps, then push the fuel cap outer straight down until it clicks into place.

Check that the lock cover is able to open and close.

Protect and store the fuel tank in a safe place until you need it again.
Tomick attached the following image(s):
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Tomick
#3 Posted : 23 May 2014 18:37:02

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Stage 2 - Contains the cylinder head, cylinder head cover, instrument panel, instrument panel cover and screws.

Fit the cylinder head and cylinder head cover together, hold them both the same way up and locate the two projections on the inside of each one.
Holding the parts together, insert a 2.3×6mm screw into the hole in the bottom of the cylinder head. Tighten the screw into place, then tighten a second 2.3×6mm screw into the hole on the other side of the bottom of the cylinder head.

The instrument panel and its cover are not used in this stage. Carefully wrap and store them for later use.
Tomick attached the following image(s):
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Tomick
#4 Posted : 23 May 2014 18:38:36

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Stage 3 - Contains the front wheel, upper crankcase and screws.

Hold the upper crankcase and the cylinder head assembly as shown in the insrtructions photo, then fit the cylinder head and upper crankcase together. The raised edge of the crankcase should fit inside the edge of the cylinder head.
Place one of the 2.3×6mm screws into one of the large holes in the underside of the crankcase, tighten the screw into place, then tighten a 2.3×6mm screw into the large hole at the other end of the underside of the crankcase.

The front wheel is used in the next stage.
Tomick attached the following image(s):
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Tomick
#5 Posted : 23 May 2014 18:40:31

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Stage 4 - Contains the front tyre, handlebar yoke, wheel balance weights, doublesided tape tabs and a Phillips screwdriver.

Soften the rubber of the front tyre by twisting it with your hands. Hold the front tyre and put the front wheel, provided with Stage 3, inside it. Rotate the wheel slowly as you work one side of the tyre onto it. When one side of the tyre is properly positioned on the wheel, turn them both over and repeat the process to fit the other side of the tyre. Rotate the assembly when finished to check that the wheel and tyre are properly fitted together.

Peel off one of the tabs of doublesided tape from the strip. Place it into the recessed area of one of the wheel balance weights. You can fix the balance weight to any point on the inside of the wheel, but generally it would be placed opposite the valve.

While only one weight has been fitted, more have been supplied, which you can add to the wheels if you choose to.

Store the wheel, handelbar yoke and remaining parts in a labelled bag until they are needed.
Tomick attached the following image(s):
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Tomick
#6 Posted : 11 June 2014 16:35:32

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Stage 5 - Contains the left suspension fork, bottom yoke and screws.

Identify the hole and projection on the outer tube of the fork. Then insert the end of the left suspension fork into the left hole in the bottom yoke.
Turn the fork so that the projection rests in the corresponding notch in the underside of the yoke.

Holding the fork and yoke in place so that the holes stay aligned, insert a 2×5mm countersunk screw into the hole of the yoke and secure the two together.

Check that the fork compresses and store the remaining screws.
Tomick attached the following image(s):
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Tomick
#7 Posted : 11 June 2014 16:37:58

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Stage 6 - Contains the right suspesion fork, upper yoke and screws.

Fit and secure the right fork to the bottom yoke as before.

Identify the correct orientation of the upper yoke, then the top yoke into position on the top of the forks, followed by the the handlebar bridge over the top of the yoke, inserting the projections into the holes.
Then insert one of the 2.6x14mm self-tapping screws into the right-hand hole of the bridge, and turn the screw a few times until it bites, but don’t fully tighten it just yet.

Now insert another 2.6×14mm self-tapping screw into the hole on the left of the handlebar bridge, and tighten it about as much as you tightened the screw on the right.
Then, starting with the right screw, tighten the screws alternately, a little at a time, until both are fully tightened and all the parts are secure.

Test the compression in the forks.

Tomick attached the following image(s):
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Tomick
#8 Posted : 11 June 2014 16:40:24

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Stage 7 - Contains a brake disk, front left brake caliper, cross wrench and hex cap screws.

Be careful when handling the brake caliper, as some parts are delicate and easy to break off.

Fit the front left brake caliper onto the left fork as shown, Insert one of the 2.3×8mm hex cap screws into the hole in the bracket at the end of the fork, then place the hex end of the cross wrench over the head of the screw and tighten. Then fit and tighten a second cap screw into the second hole.

Carefully store the fork assembly and keep unused parts separately in labelled bags.
Tomick attached the following image(s):
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