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3x MP4-23 Options
Warthog
#281 Posted : 07 December 2012 22:22:16

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Here it is but the McLaren is only in there to keep the dust off it at the moment...
Warthog attached the following image(s):
P1018023.jpg
schueyking
#282 Posted : 12 December 2012 18:52:40

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BigGrin looks AWESOME Spence!!!! I can't see my dislay case until Christmas day, as it is a present from my GirlfriendLOL LOL LOL
My replacement parts have arrived too....so can look forward to building again!

ChrisBigGrin
Warthog
#283 Posted : 23 February 2013 20:57:58

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Warthog attached the following image(s):
P1018131.jpg
WarrenR6
#284 Posted : 29 August 2013 21:52:53

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hey spence it says your inbox is full and i cant post it on the main forum
Warthog
#285 Posted : 29 August 2013 22:02:06

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I have 4 messages in there so not sure why mate Blink

I might log out and in again..

I'll pm you with mine
mark8454
#286 Posted : 09 September 2014 07:23:36

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Sorry if this has already been covered but all the chrome that meet the red, are they all delegated by decals as I am looking to do this myself and I know that will be my only flaw is blending it in

Great build BTW :)
Warthog
#287 Posted : 09 September 2014 09:38:38

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Hi Mark

Yes the decals supplied will cover any joint between the MP4 red and Chrome.




Spencer
mark8454
#288 Posted : 09 September 2014 22:48:52

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I really want to attempt it but not sure if I should, do you think the standard paint on it is still a good match? Looking at the amalgam models it looks very similar to standard deag model
Rift
#289 Posted : 23 September 2014 21:10:50

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Hi all total new guy here.

I just bought this kit and the senna kit, and Warthog I have a few questions for you if youd be up for answering them =)

First of all what an amazing build. I truley love the extra work you put into this and before seeing your thread I was just going to do a standard build. You have now inspired me to go much much further. I have gone through all of this thread and a few of your others and was hoping to just get some definiative answers on things since this build is a few years old and some places for buying things don't exist anymore.

Regarding the carbon fiber is this still the place you recommend for getting the decals from? http://store.scalemotors...000&Category_Code=4 You mentioned putting testors smoke paint over the carbon fiber afterwards. How many coats did you do?

In terms of repainting the body did you use the micro mesh to remove the original paint? If so what number? How far did you polish the plastic after the fact before repainting?

For the body you mentioned you used Alclad2 chrome and Halfords "Ford Sunburst Red" would those still be your recommendations? Also what color primer were you using when repainting the body I saw black in some cases and what looked like grey in others? Finally when you clear coated did you polish the clear coat at all?

Lastly (sorry long post) do you have any recommendations for where to get the rest of the decals if you are repainting the body? Most of the places mentioned in this thread no longer exist or don't have any =)

Thanks in advanced for any help your thread has already taught me so much =)


Warthog
#290 Posted : 23 September 2014 23:21:55

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Hi Rift and first of all a big welcome to ModelSpace and your kind comments regarding my buildBigGrin

You have also chosen 2 very nice kits to do.. Ok lets se how I can answer your questions.

The carbon decals I got from HLJ(hobbylinkjapan)and are still available but they may be low on stock but the ones you have a link to are just as good.

With regards to the "Smoke" over the decals, I used Tamiya Smoke from a rattle can as this gave better coverage but only do 2 very light dust overs.. to many coats and it will go too dark. The reason for the smole was to tone down the decals and to give them a "Glaze" so that when completely dry they could be given a go over with 6000 micromesh and then 8000 and 12000 to buff.

Woth regards to repainting the body, initially I used Automotive cilicon carbide 1500 (wet and dry) but later found out it was quicker to submerse the parts in automotive brake fluid for a few hours. This stripped the paint without attacking the ABS. Once the parts where washed and all traces of fluid removed.

The areas where the Zero Paints MP4 red was being added where outlined and the body parts where given a coat of Halfords white primer.

Where I had marked the lines that seperate the MP4 Red from the chrome was masked off only leaving the areas that needed spraying for the MP4 red, one this had a few coats the Red was then masked off and the rest of the body panels where then treated to a coat a Halfords Matt Black and allowed to dry for at least 24 hours.

Once the body panels had been left to dry for a few days they where given 2 coats of Halfords Clear Lacquer and once again given 2 days to completely dry. This was then given a rubbing down with 6000 micromesh then 8000 then 12000 to achieve the shine ready for the AlcladII Chrome.

No finger prints had to be on the car what so ever otherwise the chrome would have shown them up like something out of a murder scene.. (they use the same type of powder for fingerprint dusting and someone had the idea to mix it with Cellulose to make the AlcladII)

The black you see in some of the pictures in this build are of the highly polished black ready for the Alclad and the £Grey£ is in fact the Chrome but under flash photography can appear to look like grey BigGrin

Aa for the rest of the decals I would suggest looking on ebay as thy are still available..

Hope this has helped answer your questions and feel free to ask any more

Spencer

BTW: I did'nt use the candy red for any of the build as it was not needed.




Warthog attached the following image(s):
mclaren paints.jpg
casino
#291 Posted : 25 September 2014 20:47:12

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@ Rift

if you go here order them and they will get them in normally between the 4 - 6 weeks they state and email when they are in and ask you to pay for them then. you will then get an email probably the next day asking to pay for shipping.

hope i wasn't teaching you to suck eggs then.

C
Rift
#292 Posted : 29 September 2014 19:26:35

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@Warthog thanks a bunch for clearing my questions up! I actually just got my first parts for each kit today and am pretty pumped about starting this.

Three more questions for you =)

1. Did you clearcoat all the parts after doing decals and so on? Or did you just leave the Alclad2 as your final coat?

2. The micromesh are these in cloth form or are the ones you are using almost like a sponge with abrasive on each side and a soft foam in the middle?

3. Was the Zero paints MP4 Red your final decision to replace the stock color?


@Casino

Thanks a bunch for the decal links!!


Thanks again for all the help!
Warthog
#293 Posted : 29 September 2014 20:21:39

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Hi Rift and great you've got your first sets of parts BigGrin

No clear coat was added after the Alclad Chrome as most if not all will dull it down so kid gloves will need to be used here...

As long as the Alclad is left to dry for days rather than hours then as long as your wearing cotton gloves to reduce the possibility of leaving fingerprints then you should be ok.

I have used a different Chrome from the Zero paints range and it's comes in a 3 bottle pack at around £18:99. It has the Black for the base coat, the chrome for the topcoat and the clear varnish. Since my original Build, others have been done using the pack below and is now my favoured choice as the lacquer can be applied over the decals to give that "painted on" look as with the real MP4/23.

http://www.hiroboy.com/c...fo.php?products_id=2054

This is also the better option if you have not used Alclad chrome before to get a mirror finish as it takes time... And a lot of it to get it right.

The MP4 red is a 99.9% match to the original McLaren red that they use on there cars, one of the reasons why it was the best option.and my final choice.

The Micromesh is the cloth and not the foam, I have not used the foam pads but I am sure they will work just as effectively.

Happy to help as always Rift

Spencer
Rift
#294 Posted : 29 September 2014 21:07:17

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Yeah I definitely want to do a clear coat afterwards to get that painted on look.

If I can I think ill pickup this Zero stuff and see how it goes =) Thank you for the update on that. Problem I'm seeing is finding a place that will ship to the USA. Seems Hiroboy doesn't?

Rift
#295 Posted : 29 September 2014 21:53:18

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spotmodel.com sell them and iwll deliver to the US for anyone else that might be in the same boat!
mark8454
#296 Posted : 10 January 2017 00:57:35

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Hi,

I'm in the process of alclad'ing my MP4-23,

Just a few questions....

Will I have any reaction from the alclad to the decal softener microsol (clear red bottle)?

I used your method is this correct; Halfords primer, then Halfords gloss back then Halfords clear, I then used the micro mesh pads and it's very shiny but there is the faintest of scratches in places (especially on edges,

I will be chroming tomorrow and want to make sure it doesn't end up ruined lol!

Please put my mind at ease lol!

arpurchase
#297 Posted : 10 January 2017 20:51:33

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BigGrin Hi Mark I would try some test pieces first to make sure it works okCool
Current builds:-C57,Zero, Lamborghini Countach, Caldercraft HMS Agamemnon,Robi,R2-D2, MFH Cobra .

darbyvet
#298 Posted : 10 January 2017 21:20:00

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mark8454 wrote:
Hi,

I'm in the process of alclad'ing my MP4-23,

Just a few questions....

Will I have any reaction from the alclad to the decal softener microsol (clear red bottle)?

I used your method is this correct; Halfords primer, then Halfords gloss back then Halfords clear, I then used the micro mesh pads and it's very shiny but there is the faintest of scratches in places (especially on edges,

I will be chroming tomorrow and want to make sure it doesn't end up ruined lol!

Please put my mind at ease lol!



From what I have read microsol is definitely not recommended over alclad because it can cause oxidation of the metal in the paint.Some people say it is OK to use others say the alclad turns black after microsol application.
Microset doesnt seem to be as bad, but a clear coat of future seems to be what most modelers do-although that will reduce some of the shine from the alclad.

I have been doing some reading on it because i will be using it for a natural metal finish on some airplanes and I plan on using a clear coat over it before applying any decal setting solution.

Hope that helps

Carl

ModelMania
#299 Posted : 10 January 2017 21:32:19

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Hello Mark,

I have read a few discussions on the internet in the past about whether or not it is safe to use decal solutions over Alclad paints and the general consensus seems to be that Micro-set doesn't seem to affect it too badly when used with care and provided that the Alclad has had a good time to cure properly, meaning at least 3-4 days, though others swear they've never had a favourable result when using it even after the Alclad has had a good cure and gave adverse effects? As for the Micro-sol the general consensus on that is to not even try it as it WILL ruin the metallic effect of the paint?

I think the main reason why 'Set' is fine to use with care, but 'Sol' isn't, is because the Micro-set is a little less aggressive as a decal softener than Micro-sol, being more of a solution to aid adhesion of the decal, with a little bit of softening included in the solution, whereas Micro-set is a stronger and much more aggressive solution intended to soften the decal in order to make it conform to quite severe compound curves and the like?

Personally, I've never tried or tested the theories as I don't use Alclad paints - I think the preparation is more trouble than it's worth to be honest, but that's just my opinion - so I'm only relating what I've read I'm afraid?

Andy is right, try prepping and painting some pieces of plastic card or an old throwaway model, then, when well and truly cured, try some old decals on them and apply the decal solutions to see what happens rather than ruin your lovely McLaren MP4/23. Experimentation is very important if you're not sure what the results might be, so just "suck it and see" as they say?

Hope that helps Mark? Cool ThumpUp


Edit - It seems Carl beat me to it with a similar answer as I was writing my post - but at least it confirms the general consensus of opinion on the subject!! Well done Carl. Cool ThumpUp


Kev Smile


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