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Official 3D Printer Build Diary packs 3 & 4 Options
Tomick
#1 Posted : 27 March 2015 09:58:05

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Pack 3 - Contains Stages 8-11

Stage 8 - Contains the Z axis limit switch, reinforcing plate, spacers (3mm), M3 truss head screws (14mm), M3 washers and M3 nuts.

We need the rear panel for this stage, which we have already added the cooling fan, noise filter and X-axis limit switch to it.

Carefully peel off both the brown paper and the transparent protective layers from the reinforcing plate.

Take the limit switch, (remember to handle the switch carefully), insert a 14mm truss head screw into each of the screw holes in the switch board and holding the screws in position, place a 3mm spacer on each of the screws.
Hold the back panel with your left hand so that the noise filter is at the bottom left. Put the limit switch screws through the screw holes indicated on the back panel. Make sure that the metal pins of the limit switch are pointing to the left, then put a washer and M3 nut on each of the screws and carefully tighten just enough to hold the switch securely in place.

Turn the rear panel over so that the cooling fan is at the lower left and the noise filter is at the lower right. The screw holes for the reinforcing plate are indicated in red. Put a screw through each of the four screw holes, turn the panel over and put a washer over each of the screws, then carefully tighten a nut onto each of the four screws.

This stage is now complete, keep the panel somewhere safe for use later on in the Pack 3 assembly.
Tomick attached the following image(s):
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Tomick
#2 Posted : 27 March 2015 10:03:36

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Stage 9 - Contains M3 truss head screws (14mm) x 26, M3 washers x 26, M3 nuts x 26 and an acrylic spanner.

In previous StaGes we have been given the front panel, rear panel, left side panel, right side panel and bottom panel for your printer. Now it's time to put these panels together to make the outer enclosure for the idbox!
The five panels we put together this time form the outer enclosure of the printer into which we will be placing components over the coming stages. The panels and their identifying features are clearly shown in the instructions so there be no trouble in identifying and fitting them together correctly.

After you’ve loosely put the panels together they are secured with 24 sets of screws, nuts and washers. Note there are two spares of each supplied with this Stage.
The spanner supplied with this stage is for use in the next stage so keep it somewhere safe.

Start by preparing both the front panel (supplied with Stage 1) and the left side panel (supplied with Stage 2) by peeling off both their brown paper and transparent protective coverings. Then get ready the 24 needed screws, washers and nuts supplied with this Stage.

Carefully follow the instructions to fit together the Front panel (supplied with Stage 1), Left side panel (supplied with Stage 2), Right side panel (supplied with Stage 3), Bottom panel (supplied with Stage 4) and the Rear panel (supplied with Stage 5).

Then fit an M3 washer onto each of the 24 M3 truss head screws, and fit an M3 nut into the indicated slots around the enclosure, then finger tighten in to each nut an M3 truss head screw complete with its washer as shown in the instructions.

The screws will be tightened in the next Stage.

This completes this stage.
Tomick attached the following image(s):
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Tomick
#3 Posted : 27 March 2015 10:07:15

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Stage 10 - Contains the enclosure assembly jig, M3 truss head screws (14mm) × 8 and M3 nuts x 8.

In this Stage you use the spanner provided to tighten up the nuts on the screws that secure the reinforcing plate and limit switches to the housing panels.
Also in this stage we tighten the nuts onto the fixing screws so that these parts are securely fixed in position. After that we add the assembly jig to the top of the printer. This is a temporary addition that keeps the housing rigid and properly aligned while you continue construction. In a future stage you will remove the jig and replace it with the printer’s top panel.

Start by preparing the assembly jig supplied with this Stage and the spanner supplied with Stage 9 by carefully peeling off their protective coverings.

So far the nuts have been only loosely tightened for the three limits switches and the reinforcing plate. Now we use the smallest hole on the spanner to tighten them up properly. When you tighten up each limit switch, hold the switch parallel to the side of the panel adjacent to it. Tighten up each of the two nuts that are used to hold on a switch little by little, one after another until you feel resistance to turning the spanner. Be careful to not use excessive force. If the screw turns while you are tightening the nut, hold the screw still with a screwdriver in the head of the screw.

Fitting the jig

Position the housing so the idbox logo is at the front. Hold the assembly jig so that the crescent shaped indent is at the rear and insert the projections in the housing into the rectangular holes in the jig. Gently push down with your hands on opposite corners of the jig in turn, then on opposite sides in turn, so that the jig holds the housing securely without there being any play in the housing. If it's hard to get the jig on correctly, loosen some of the enclosure screw and nut fastenings.

Once the jig is holding the enclosure in the correct shape, tighten the screws in the housing in the order shown in the instructions a little at a time, repeating the cycle of tightening until they are all tightened to the same degree. If they are tightened fully one at a time it is likely that the housing will be distorted in which case, it would be impossible to output accurate 3D models. There 24 screws to tighten, so take your time and do it carefully!

Secure the jig

Insert an M3 nut into each of the slots shown in the instructions. There are two slots in each of the front, rear, left and right panels. Then screw a 25mm truss head screw into each of the nuts and tighten each screw in turn by a small amount, moving from screw to screw in the order shown. Tighten each screw little by little and evenly until they are all tightened securely to the same degree.

This completes this stage, carefully store the idbox enclosure until needed.

Tomick attached the following image(s):
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Tomick
#4 Posted : 27 March 2015 10:10:25

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Stage 11 - Contains a brass nut, M10 washer, M10 nut and a 2mm Allen key.

Keep the Allen Key safe as this will not be used until the next Stage.

In this Stage we attach the large brass nut to the table base, making sure you align it properly.

For this Stage we need the table base we last worked on in Stage 2 and the spanner supplied with Stage 9.

Align the table base so that its underside is uppermost and the small metal plate or 'dog' is at the lower left.

The brass nut is to be inserted into the large hole. It is essential that the brass nut is firmly fixed to the table base. To make certain of this you might want to apply PVA wood glue (using a cocktail stick) to the underside of the nut’s head before inserting it.
Align the nut in its hole so that the straight sides of its head are parallel with the edge of the table base. Turn the table base over and hold the nut with your fingers so it does not drop out, then fit the M10 washer and nut over the threaded section of the brass nut.
Tighten the M10 nut using the spanner, whilst holding the brass nut to stop it rotating while you turn the spanner clockwise. Be careful not to overtighten the nut/crack the acrylic.

Carefully store the table for later use.

This completes the assembly of Pack 3.
Tomick attached the following image(s):
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Tomick
#5 Posted : 26 May 2015 17:13:57

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Pack 4 contains Stages 12 - 15

Stage 12 - Contains a slider rod (Y-axis/left), S3M timing pulley/short and a 3mm M4 set screw.

Insert the slider rod through the timing pulley, there should be about 1cm to 2cm between the toothed end of the pulley and the end of the rod.

Insert the set screw into the screw hole in the timing pulley and tighten it up clockwise. Stop tightening the set screw when you feel some resistance. You want it tight enough to just hold the pulley onto the rod without tightening it fully. A good test is to try holding the rod vertically – if the pulley slides down, the screw is too loose; if it stays on, it is tight enough. Be extremely careful not to mark the slider rods!

This completes this Stage, set the slider rod aside ready for use in the next Stage.

Tomick attached the following image(s):
P12-1.JPG
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Tomick
#6 Posted : 26 May 2015 17:15:37

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Stage 13 - Contains a slider, S3M timing pulley/long, 3mm M4 set screw and an 8mm: M4 set screw.

Get ready the left-hand Y-axis slider rod you worked on in Stage 12.

Screw the 8mm set screw clockwise into the screw hole in the slider, until about 3mm of the screw is left sticking out from the screw hole, then slide the slider onto the slider rod in the orientation shown.

Now slide the long timing pulley onto the slider rod in the orientation shown, and leaving between 1 and 2cm of rod showing. Insert the 3mm set screw into the screw hole in the timing pulley and tighten it up clockwise. Do not tighten it fully at this stage. Stop tightening when you begin to feel some resistance.

This completes this stage, set the slider rod assembly aside ready for the next stage.
Tomick attached the following image(s):
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Tomick
#7 Posted : 26 May 2015 17:17:56

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Stage 14 - Contains two S3M timing belts/long, a: S3M timing belt/short, bearings, and 4mm M3 truss head screw and a 12mm M3 truss head screw.

You’ll need the left-hand Y-axis slider rod you last worked on in Stage 13, plus the printer housing. Position the housing so the idbox logo is at the front (facing you).

With the short pulley closest to you, put one of the long timing belts over the short pulley. Take the other long belt and put it over the long timing pulley at the other end of the rod. Now put the short belt over the long timing pulley. It doesn’t matter if the belts are not actually on the pulleys just yet, as long as they are over the slider rod. Their positions will be sorted out later on.

Hold the rod so that the short pulley is at the front (closest to you) and move it to the top of the housing. Put the far end of the rod through the indicated in the rear panel, then put the other end of the rod through the other indicated hole in the front panel.

Now fit one of the bearings into the hole with its flange on the outside, then insert the end of the rod through the hole in the centre of the bearing. Make sure the bearing is fully inserted into the hole in the panel.

Turn the housing so the rear panel is at the front (facing you). Put the other bearing into the hole at the top right of the panel, inserting the slider rod through the bearing’s hole.

Use a screwdriver to screw the 4mm M3 truss head screw into the end of the slider rod. Hold the rod firmly while you tighten the screw.

Turn the housing so that the front of the housing is at the front (facing you) and screw the 12mm M3 truss head screw into the end of the slider rod. Do not tighten it fully at this stage. Leave a gap between the truss head screw’s head and the end of the slider rod, as there is another part to be fitted here at a later stage.

This completes the installation of the left-hand Y-axis slider rod into the housing.

Carefully store the housing until it is needed again.
Tomick attached the following image(s):
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Tomick
#8 Posted : 26 May 2015 17:19:47

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Stage 15 - Contains a slider rod (Y-axis/right), S3M timing pulley/short and two 3mm M4 set screws.

Insert the slider rod through the timing pulley, as shown, so that there is about 1 to 2cm between the toothed end of the pulley and the end of the rod.
Insert the set screw into the timing pulley’s screw hole and turn the Allen key clockwise to tighten it. Stop turning when you begin to feel resistance. The set screw is tight enough (for now) when the pulley is just barely held in position and does not slide off when the rod is held vertically.

Keep the second 3mm set screw supplied with this stage in labelled bag as it will be needed later on.

This completes this Stage and the assembly of Pack 4
Tomick attached the following image(s):
P15-1.JPG
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P15-3.JPG
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