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Graeme's Swift 1805 Options
pemberg
#121 Posted : 12 June 2017 12:17:10

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Thanks for looking in guys and the positive comments.

The next job was to rig the stays. First a line was wrapped around the upper main mast just above the upper bracket and tied with brown sewing thread, Pic 1.

The knots throughout the rigging can be sealed using a drop of diluted white glue or super glue but if using super glue, first test it on a scrap bit of thread as the thread supplied with one model I made reacted with the super glue and actually ‘smoked. The thread/super glue combo this time however was ok.

The line was then wrapped around the foremast just above the step and again tied off with thread, Pic 2. A second stay was then run from the top of the foremast to an eyelet half way along the bowsprit, Pic 3. Pic 4 shows a general shot of the Swift with the stays rigged.

Next was to rig the deadeyes using the wire and thread provided. I followed the method in the instructions and found it to work pretty well.

First an eyelet was fitted into a small pin vice and the pin vice held in a bench vice, Pic 5. Next a length of wire was cut (I found 160mm was sufficient) and passed through the eyelet and bent at the midpoint, then twisted together (using pliers) until the twisted length was ~ 15mm, Pics 6 & 7. A deadeye was then held between the wire ends and the wire twisted around the deadeye ensuring the wire stayed within the groove, Pic 8 – a little bit fiddly but you soon get the hand of it. The excess wire is then cut off and the twisted stub bent back onto the deadeye, Pic 9. If the holes in the deadeye are not in the correct orientation then the deadeye can be turned within the wire – I did this by inserting the tips of a pair of fine tweezers into two of the holes and twisting.

A second deadeye was then rigged to the first by tying a knot in the end of the thread then passing it through the holes in both deadeyes in the sequence shown in the instructions, Pics 10 & 11. This was repeated for all eight pairs of deadeyes.

The twisted wire on each of the pairs of deadeyes was passed through the appropriate chainwale and a suitable drill bit passed through the loop in the end of the wire and a hole drilled in the hull ensuring the deadeye was up tight to the chainwale. A drop of super glue was put onto the end of a pin and the pin passed through the wire loop and into the hull, Pic 12.

The shrouds were then rigged. Each pair of shrouds was made with a single length of thread looped around the upper mast and run down to the pair of deadeyes on the chainwale. The shroud was passed around the upper deadeye, pulled reasonably tight – ensuring not to bend the mast – and held in place with a crocodile clip, Pic 13. The shroud was tied off with sewing thread and the tail of the deadeye rigging thread was pulled to tighten the shroud – again ensuring that you do not bend the mast. The tail of the deadeye rig was then passed, from the rear, through the gap formed between the upper deadeye and the tied off shroud and then lashed to the shroud. The shroud was lashed a second time just above the first and the excess shroud thread cut off, pic 14.

That’s it for now

Graeme
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ian smith
#122 Posted : 12 June 2017 12:31:47

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Hi Graeme.
Looking fantastic. great tip on the curtain hook for twisting the wire.
Look forward to seeing more of this one. Ian Cool Cool BigGrin
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delboy271155
#123 Posted : 12 June 2017 13:26:09

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Very tidy work on the rigging.

Cool Cool Cool

Regards
delboy271155
(Derek)
COME BACK GUY FAWKES "YOUR COUNTRY NEEDS YOU"






pemberg
#124 Posted : 12 June 2017 13:54:12

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Cheers guys. Ian, I can't take credit for the 'hook' idea as it is included in the instructions and it is actually an eyelet from the kit which has been opened up slightly to enable the wire to be slipped off.

Graeme
RogerThornhill
#125 Posted : 12 June 2017 14:14:12

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Great looking build!!

Just one question, is this the AL kit, or the DeAgostini kit you can buy here. I think I may buy this kit as it's for beginners and that's what I am.




birdaj2
#126 Posted : 12 June 2017 14:44:13

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Very neat workt.

A great build update.
Happy Modelling

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pemberg
#127 Posted : 12 June 2017 15:21:31

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Hi Roger, this is the kit available on the MS website.

Graeme
RogerThornhill
#128 Posted : 12 June 2017 16:34:17

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Good, Im going to save up my money and that's the next kit Im buying!
arpurchase
#129 Posted : 12 June 2017 21:06:38

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BigGrin Nice work Greame, she certainly looks the partCool
Current builds:-C57,Zero, Lamborghini Countach, Caldercraft HMS Agamemnon,Robi,R2-D2, MFH Cobra .

Gandale
#130 Posted : 12 June 2017 22:54:53

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Lovely progress Graeme, looking the biz.....Drool Drool

Regards

Alan
DaDokta
#131 Posted : 13 June 2017 10:41:01

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Great update and valuable tips!
Greetings,
Walter



Present builds:
HMS Victory

Builds started but currently on a hold:
AKAGI, Supermarine Spitfire, Hachette U-96

On the shelf:
HMS Victory Cross-section, Italeri "Fiat Mefistofele", Italeri "Moto Guzzi California", Fokker "Red Baron", Revell Bismarck, Revell Tirpitz, Arab Dow, Stage Coach, .....

Completed builds:
McLaren MP4/4, D-51
pemberg
#132 Posted : 13 June 2017 14:19:44

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Cheers guys, thanks for the comments.

The boom was next to be rigged. Pic 1 shows the ‘jaws’ for the boom as removed from the fret. The boom was tapered in the same way as the masts were and two flats were filed on the thicker end to take the jaws, Pic 2. The jaws were then glued to the boom, Pic 3 and the boom stained and the jaws painted black, pic 4.

A knot was tied in the end of a length of rigging thread then the other end passed through one of the holes in the jaws. Five parral beads were then threaded onto the thread, Pic 5, the boom jaws held in place against the mast and the thread passed around the mast, through the other hole in the jaws and tied off, Pic 6.

A general shot of the Swift showing the stays, shrouds and boom in place is shown in Pic 7.

Next was to rig the gaffs – one on each mast. These were made in the same way as the boom but using only four parral beads. The position of each gaff was measured on the 1:1 drawing provided and marked on the mast with masking tape. The gaffs were then fitted in the same way as the boom, Pics 8, 9 & 10.

That’s it for now. Next time I start the running rigging.

Graeme
pemberg attached the following image(s):
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Garth
#133 Posted : 13 June 2017 14:34:41

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Hi Graeme,
fantastic update. I admire your attention to detail.
Kind regards,
Garth
"Measure twice, cut once!!!"
Finished!!! HMS Victory,
Current build: Black Pearl.
On hold: Bismarck, Golden Hind, Flying Scotsman, Victory Cross Section, SOTS, Tiger 1.
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Sticky Wickett
#134 Posted : 13 June 2017 14:36:14

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Excellent work Graeme. Great attention to detail.

Regards,
Phil W.
Completed projects: 1/43 scale Bedford HA van / 1/43 scale MG TD sports car
Current projects: 1/48 scale U-boat [U230]
Future projects: 1/148 scale railway diorama / 1/50 scale R/C Volvo F89 logging truck / 1/148 scale Thunderbirds Fireflash
pemberg
#135 Posted : 19 June 2017 11:27:55

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Thanks for looking in and the comments.

Now to start the running rigging. First, the gaffs were each rigged with two lines, the first runs from the base of the gaff, through the mast and down to the deck and the second form the tip of the gaff, through three blocks and down to the deck. Pics 1 & 2 show the main gaff and Pics 3 & 4 show the fore gaff. All these lines were left untied so the gaff could be adjusted once the sail is fitted.

The main sail was then tied to the gaff, Pic 5 and then the mast rings were opened up slightly, passed through the sail and then closed again, Pic 6. The sail was then rigged to the boom, Pic 7 and the gaff lines tightened, Pic 8, and tied off. Pic 9 shows the boom rigged to the deck.

Pics 10 & 11 show the fore sail rigged in a similar way to the main and Pic 12 shows both sails rigged.

The inner jib sail was next to rigged and was attached to the fore stay with small rings. These were first opened up, Pic 13, passed through the edge of the sail, Pic 14, then around the stay, Pic 15 and closed up again. A line was then tied to the top corner of the sail, passed through a block on the fore mast and tied off at a cleat on the lower fore mast, pics 16 & 17. Lines were then tied to the fore and aft corners of the sail, the line was passed through the sail using a sewing needle, Pic 18 and tied to the sail, Pic 19. The aft line was tied off at the deck, Pic 20, whilst the fore line was passed through a block midway along the bowsprit and tied off at a cleat on the aft end of the bowsprit, Pic 21.

Three lines were tied to the corners of the outer jib sail, Pic 22. The upper line was rigged through a block at the top of the fore mast in the same way as the inner jib. The lower foremost line was passed through a block at the end of the bowsprit, Pic 23 and tied off at the same cleat as the inner jib, Pic 21 again. The remaining corner line was tied off at a ring on the deck, Pic 24.

That’s it for now. All that remains is to fit the anchors, various deck clutter and the name plate.

Graeme
pemberg attached the following image(s):
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arpurchase
#136 Posted : 19 June 2017 17:54:55

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BigGrin Great work Graeme there's certainly some nice detail in this kitCool
Current builds:-C57,Zero, Lamborghini Countach, Caldercraft HMS Agamemnon,Robi,R2-D2, MFH Cobra .

delboy271155
#137 Posted : 19 June 2017 18:25:40

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Outstanding result Graeme.

Cool Cool Cool Cool

Look forward to seeing the finished build pics.

Regards
delboy271155
(Derek)
COME BACK GUY FAWKES "YOUR COUNTRY NEEDS YOU"






birdaj2
#138 Posted : 19 June 2017 18:40:18

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Graeme

Another really nice update.

That is some very neat and tidy work on your rigging. You must have great patience as that all looks so complex.

Hope the rest goes well for you.
Happy Modelling

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Gandale
#139 Posted : 19 June 2017 22:50:53

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Looks great Graeme, really nice work you've done on this.....Drool Drool

Regards

Alan
jase
#140 Posted : 20 June 2017 05:29:12

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really nice build, end in sight looks fab
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