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Sword Beach D-Day Landings Options
Plymouth57
#81 Posted : 21 December 2019 21:44:57

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As shown in Photo 12, the bunker steps were very simple to make, just a series of thin plasticard sections glued together and staggered to produce the steps themselves. After the stack was completely set, I then sanded down the sides to level them off and then using the razor blade cutter sliced the stack in half producing a pair of steps as seen in Photo 13. The two sets were then slightly pared down to fit the gaps in the sea wall, butting up against the rear of the bunker as shown in Photo 14. Because the two resin bunkers were glued on top of the budgie grit foundations, they were slightly different heights above the beach – not by very much but enough that one of them had the full flight of four steps to match the door whilst the other shown here had its top step sliced off, needing only three! Now came the great experiment – my largest rubber mould yet! The main torso/head/upper arms mould for the Chindit bust last year probably used as much rubber its true, but this one covers a much larger flat area. The first task was a larger version of the buildings and bunker procedure, ie, filling in the dips and undercut sections with liquid rubber applied with a fairly stiff brush. You can just make out the initial applications in Photo 15. As well as the bunker slits and the boulder bases, I also brushed over the craters in the beach, the ones in the roads and gardens with their bricks scattered about and the hedgerow in the first garden. The Churchill Armoured Ramp decided that it wasn’t going to part company with the rubble pile it was sat on, so I decided to incorporate the tank into the base as well!(Although I later wished I hadn't!)Blushing The remainder of the first mix of 80gm of rubber was then poured over the base, mainly over the tank and then down the main road where it then flowed out under gravity as seen in the photo. A close up of the Armoured Ramp and bunker is shown in Photo 16, I was adding the rubber in batches of approximately 80gm and it took at least half a dozen mixes to get to the stage seen in Photo 17 with just the very top of the bunkers left above the surface. Quite a lot of the rubber went to fill in the gaps around the actual beach and road up to the Lego wall of course. The batches were applied in pairs with the silicone rubber setting solid before the next lot went on. The beauty of the silicone is that it can be applied in stages like this, fresh rubber will bond perfectly to set rubber with no loss of strength (as I’ve proved when not applying enough Vaseline to two part moulds in the past!)Blink It then took another three mixes to finish off the full depth of the mould as I now had to cover the full area of the base and not just a smaller lower section.
Photo 18 shows the finished rubber mould in all its floppy glory – I say floppy as it’s like trying to work with a half stunned flatfish when holding it!BigGrin The first job before resin casting was to cut a piece of melamine sheet to a quarter inch wider than the dimensions of the mould to provide a solid foundation,not to mention something to actually hold the rubber with. Eventually I’ll get some wooden quarter inch quadrant to glue around it forming a trough to hold it in place. (The rubber is actually virtually non slip anyway and doesn’t slide off the melamine’ no matter what the angle!) The very first trial casting is shown in Photo 19, this was composed entirely of the Roto-casting resin I used for the Chindit bust last year and is essentially a hollow casting here. What isn't evident in this shot is that after a few days the thinnest edge of the casting, the water's edge of the beach, has warped up at the corners, this shouldn't hopefully occur on the final casting as that will be much thicker overall. The trial was useful in exposing which areas of the mould required special attention to get a good casting (especially that flaming Armoured Ramp which loves air bubbles at the ends of the ramp sections!) In the next (overdue) installment, I’ll show the second attempt with a slightly different approach!
Until then, Happy Modelling to you All and a Very Happy Christmas too!BigGrin

Robin.
Plymouth57 attached the following image(s):
Bunkers pic 3.JPG
Bunkers pic 4.JPG
First wooden ship: The Grimsby 12 Gun 'Frigate' by Constructo Second: Bounty DelPrado Part Works Third: HMS Victory DelPrado Part Works 1/100 scale
Diorama of the Battle of the Brandywine from the American Revolutionary War Diorama of the Battle of New Falkland (unfinished sci-fi), Great War Centenary Diorama of the Messines Ridge Assault
Index for the Victory diary is on page 1
birdaj2
#82 Posted : 21 December 2019 22:05:32

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Happy christmas to you Robin.

I cannot believe i missed your November update but last month or so has been in turmoil with our swindon office closing and people having to be relocated to Bristol to work.

At the moment they are leaving me alone to carry on working from home which allows me to look after my mum.

Anyhow enough of me :-).

Good to see your latest updates and just how good it all looks, and in the scale very convincing. That pillbox you have made from sheets of plasticard really takes on the form of what its intended to be.

You have put so much effort into all the little bits and pieces which is going to really give the final scene some amazing detail and depth.

Hope it all continues well.

Tony
Happy Modelling

BUILDING: Harley Davidson Fat boy, E-Type Jaguar, Lam. Countach, 1:200 Bismarck (Hachette)
SUBSCRIPTION COMPLETE (Awaiting building): USS Constitution
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Markwarren
#83 Posted : 22 December 2019 09:46:36

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Lovely work Robin, love the detail you’re putting into this.Love Drool Drool

Mark
Gandale
#84 Posted : 23 December 2019 09:22:12

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Truly amazing Robin, the detail you're adding is a joy to see come together.....Love Love .. Look forward to your next update.

Regards

Alan
Kev the Modeller
#85 Posted : 23 December 2019 17:13:24

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Excellent work as always Robin and that beachfront casting is a masterpiece - you should try selling all of the castings for this build on Ebay, I'm sure you'll sell loads! Drool ThumpUp

Kev Smile
Per Ardua Ad Astra
Plymouth57
#86 Posted : 01 January 2020 18:35:03

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Grateful thanks as always to Tony, Mark, Alan and Kev!Blushing
Glad you can spend more time looking after your Mum Tony, I'm a full time carer for mine as well, she'll be 92 next month! Now that I'm doing all the cooking I can appreciate how much time women spend on that job - there's no time to do anything else in the mornings!Blink
I might well look into that Kev, I've only ever bought things on Ebay before, but it could be a way to 'recoup' some of the expenditure! The main base with some of the re-designed tanks might prove popular!BigGrin
As you can see from Photo 1, the second attempt followed a slightly different path! Instead of casting the whole thing in the Roto-resin, this one used both the Roto and the standard beige quick setting resin. I began as before by pouring the first mixing of the standard resin down the line of the sea wall and into the two bunkers. This was followed by filling the garden walls and hedges with the cast in Armoured Ramp (poking around with a cocktail stick to try and fill the deepest parts of the mould fully) and finally, another couple of mixes to fill in the rest of the road and pavements. After that had cured completely I then used multiple mixes of the Roto-resin to fill in the beach itself and to ‘fill in’ much of the space under the cured beige resin. This of course gives the ‘two tone’ coloured casting seen here! Photos 2 to 4 show close ups of the Armoured Ramp and the bunkers, the beige resin shows the detailing much clearer than the off white Roto resin although, as you’ll see later, a good coat of matt grey primer shows it even better! Nipping ahead to Photo 8 (which I forgot to include earlier), you can just make out the second improvement to the casting – a sheet of clear Perspex cut to size so that it snugly fits the rim of the base in the rubber. On this casting I wrapped a piece of clingfilm around it to prevent the resin gluing to the Perspex. This worked ok but the wrinkles made it difficult to see clearly through. On subsequent castings I’ll try a covering of clear self adhesive film once I’ve checked that the resin doesn’t stick to the film of course! After the road, walls and gardens had been cast in the beige I mixed a good quantity of the white Roto resin and poured it over the beige before dropping the Perspex into place and then sloshing the liquid resin around covering the beach and the other three sides. I may well make a duplicate Perspex panel, but this time with a large round hole in the middle so I can try out the micro-sphere filler I bought to add to the beige resin and completely fill in the underside of the casting. This one is solid under the beach and around the edges of the base which is enough to construct the model (but a solid base would be easier to glue down!)
Going back to Photo 5 we have the garden with the hedge, which again shows the better definition of the beige. The only problem I encountered with the second casting was air bubbles in the gate posts in the garden walls. This is illustrated in Photo 6 and occurred despite my usual prodding about with a cocktail stick! For my own model I’ve come to a simple solution which is shown in Photo 7. I’ve replaced a couple of the posts with new ones made from the same styrene square rod used to make the originals and the others have been partly filled in with the Modelling Paste to form (yep) shell damaged posts!BigGrin After they were done I suddenly came up with the perfect solution for avoiding the bubbles in the first place – simply make more styrene posts and push them into the post holes in the mould, leaving a few mm sticking out. The sticky out bits will be embedded in the resin casting giving perfect posts in the walls!Blushing
Finally, in Photo 9, a preview of how the details stand out after a single coat of Poundshop Prodriver Auto Grey Primer, this was the ‘non cellulose paint’ version with the beautiful dead matt finish.(Which seems to have run out in the shops!Crying )
In the next installment, the painting of the base casting begins (it seems now that the roads around Sword Beach are actually a light sandstone colour, not the grey stone I was intending to paint! Bang goes the simple ink wash then!)

Until then, Happy Modelling and New Year to you All!

Robin.
Plymouth57 attached the following image(s):
Casting the base pic 1.JPG
Casting the base pic 2.JPG
First wooden ship: The Grimsby 12 Gun 'Frigate' by Constructo Second: Bounty DelPrado Part Works Third: HMS Victory DelPrado Part Works 1/100 scale
Diorama of the Battle of the Brandywine from the American Revolutionary War Diorama of the Battle of New Falkland (unfinished sci-fi), Great War Centenary Diorama of the Messines Ridge Assault
Index for the Victory diary is on page 1
birdaj2
#87 Posted : 02 January 2020 12:46:16

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Happy new year to you Robin.

Pleased to see your wonderful build has been put into the build of the month category for January - very well deserved.

Tony
Happy Modelling

BUILDING: Harley Davidson Fat boy, E-Type Jaguar, Lam. Countach, 1:200 Bismarck (Hachette)
SUBSCRIPTION COMPLETE (Awaiting building): USS Constitution
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Plymouth57
#88 Posted : 02 January 2020 18:08:43

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Eh? You what? Hang on a mo'.......Strewth you're right!Blink Grateful thanks to Admin and to all the wonderful comments from you all!Blushing Blushing Blushing Blushing Blushing Blushing Blushing Blushing Blushing Blushing
Have started the painting on the base now - ruddy difficult when its all in one piece!BigGrin
Many thanks again!

Robin.
First wooden ship: The Grimsby 12 Gun 'Frigate' by Constructo Second: Bounty DelPrado Part Works Third: HMS Victory DelPrado Part Works 1/100 scale
Diorama of the Battle of the Brandywine from the American Revolutionary War Diorama of the Battle of New Falkland (unfinished sci-fi), Great War Centenary Diorama of the Messines Ridge Assault
Index for the Victory diary is on page 1
Gandale
#89 Posted : 02 January 2020 23:48:31

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Plymouth57 wrote:
Eh? You what? Hang on a mo'.......Strewth you're right!Blink Grateful thanks to Admin and to all the wonderful comments from you all!Blushing Blushing Blushing Blushing Blushing Blushing Blushing Blushing Blushing Blushing
Have started the painting on the base now - ruddy difficult when its all in one piece!BigGrin
Many thanks again!

Robin.


Really pleased to see your build being selected as the highlighted build for the month of January, a very well deserved accolade for the incredible work you have done.... Well done Robin.....Drool Drool Drool

Regards

Alan
Kev the Modeller
#90 Posted : 04 January 2020 18:10:09

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Top work as always Robin, looking really good! Drool

Well done also on achieving your new found fame with 'Build of the Month', very much deserved. Cool ThumpUp

Kev Smile
Per Ardua Ad Astra
Markwarren
#91 Posted : 05 January 2020 12:15:56

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Well done Robin, well deserved. Excellent build.Love Love Drool
Plymouth57
#92 Posted : 09 January 2020 19:09:05

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Many thanks again to Tony, Alan, Kev and Mark for their kind words!Blushing

Well, this is more fiddly than I thought! The last time I attempted to paint a ‘battlefield’ in situ was probably about 50 years ago when Airfix brought out those 1/72 scale diorama sets with a building kit set on a vacuum formed one piece terrain base with various ‘battlefield accessories’ to be glued around the place. (Anybody remember them?) I know there was a Far East bamboo hut set, which I never got, but I think mine was a ruined European house with a moulded in sandbagged dug out or something. Just had a quick look on the web and mine was the “Forward Command Post” the hut one was the “Jungle Outpost” and there was also a “North African Outpost” too (memories!)Cool There also seems to have been a “Battlefront” one with a crossroads and Sherman and Tiger tank kits but I can’t say I remember that one! A bit later Airfix brought out the house part of the Forward Command Post in the larger 1/32 scale calling it the “Strongpoint”
Anyway, this time around instead of 1/72 its now 1/700! The first job (after priming the base with Poundshop Auto Grey Primer) was to go over the sea-wall on both sides with a thinned down wash of Citadel Skaven Brown Ink. This was to fill in the mortar joints between the blocks and once dry, I then dry-brushed over with Vallejo Sky Grey to pick out the blocks again. The result is shown in Photo 1. I then accentuated the sky grey with a further dry-brushing of Vallejo Ivory, concentrating at the top of the wall as seen in Photo 2. The next task was to try and simulate the algae growth at the base of the wall up to the ‘high tide’ mark. This took two tries – the first was to mix the Citadel Skaven Brown Ink with Citadel Waaargh! Green Ink (that’s what it says on the bottle!BigGrin ) But despite using a clean wet brush to blend the green ‘stain’ into the grey, when it dried there was still a fairly sharp line between the two. So I had to re dry-brush the grey blocks and then add the tide mark with Vallejo Medium Olive dry-brushed in from the base up. The final effect is shown in Photo 3. Photo 4 illustrates the need to plan the painting ahead in stages. The arrow shows the ‘overspill’ of the grey dry-brushing onto the road surface. This was caused by highlighting the edges of the steps leading up to the bunker doors. I could have placed masking tape there of course, but by painting the road surface later than the wall, any spill over with be covered up anyway!
I decided to paint the garden walls as red brick rather than the grey stone of the sea wall. This was mainly just to put a little extra colour into the scene, checking photos of the modern streets and buildings gives a fairly even mix of brick and stone walls so this should be pretty much in keeping with the area. The walls were first painted with Vallejo Red Leather, this being the closest thing I’ve got to ‘Brick Red’! I didn’t take a photo of the base coat unfortunately but Photos 5 and 6 show the next step which was to apply a thinned down wash of white, allowing the wash to flow into the grooves between the bricks to create the mortar joints. I was looking for a white ink wash in the local Antics but the only one there was a Humbrol Enamel Wash and I didn’t want a spirit based ink spreading over areas I would later be working on in acrylics so I ended up with Ammo Mig Washable White. I thought it sounded more like a Dulux bathroom paint to be honest but I think it’s actually meant to simulate the whitewash applied to camouflaged vehicles during the winter. It’s already fairly thin in consistency but I diluted it further in water and ran the paintbrush along the walls leaving the white to run into the mortar as shown here. Photo 7 shows the white film left on the top of the wall after doing both sides. I was tempted to give the tops a dry-brushing of white/light grey to simulate a cement topping but in the end decided to dry-brush the Red Leather instead, both along the top to dull down the white and over the walls themselves where the white was maybe too prominent. The final result is shown in Photo 8. The other advantage in making the walls red brick is that I’ve still got some of the 1/72 scale ceramic red bricks I used to make the despatch hut in the Scramble diorama. I can crush a few up and use them for debris on those shattered gate posts!Cool Finally, in Photo 9 the main road surface and the pavement around the houses has been given a base coat of Ammo Mig Sandgrau (Sand-Grey), this is a good foundation colour for the light sandstone making up the cobbles and slabs. (I've just had to send off for a second plywood paint rack for the Vallejo/Mig bottles now!)
In the next installment, the road and pavements get the wash and brush up treatment and the gardens get their grass.
Until then, Happy Modelling to you All!

Robin.
Plymouth57 attached the following image(s):
Painting the Base pic 1.JPG
Painting the Base pic 2.JPG
First wooden ship: The Grimsby 12 Gun 'Frigate' by Constructo Second: Bounty DelPrado Part Works Third: HMS Victory DelPrado Part Works 1/100 scale
Diorama of the Battle of the Brandywine from the American Revolutionary War Diorama of the Battle of New Falkland (unfinished sci-fi), Great War Centenary Diorama of the Messines Ridge Assault
Index for the Victory diary is on page 1
birdaj2
#93 Posted : 09 January 2020 21:58:42

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Robin

I remember those airfix kits very well. I used to spend hours as a young one playing with them. The guns used to be spring loaded if you recall and you could fire mini plastic shells at your troops :-)

Not sure if you have ever come across the following company but they still produce the airfix vac forms as well as a wider range of products

http://www.amera.co.uk/product.php?range=a

Good to see the paint going onto your build - been looking forward to that part as its really going to add some great depth to the whole build.

Hope it all continues well.

Tony
Happy Modelling

BUILDING: Harley Davidson Fat boy, E-Type Jaguar, Lam. Countach, 1:200 Bismarck (Hachette)
SUBSCRIPTION COMPLETE (Awaiting building): USS Constitution
COMPLETED: Porsche 911
Plymouth57
#94 Posted : 15 January 2020 23:23:30

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I remember them well Tony, I had that Coastal Battery set with the twin firing guns!CoolI can remember some (was it Dinky) die cast guns and tanks which fired matchsticks too. I think I had a 25lbr gun but they had some huge WW1 monsters which I could never afford! (I bet they're worth a bit now too!)Crying
Anyway, back to the serious stuff!


Carrying on with the road surface, Photo 10 shows the first stage with the application of the good old Citadel Skaven Brown Ink wash. It was quite difficult to get the dilution rate just right, too rich and the road just turned a ‘messy’ brown, too thin and the ink vanished into the grooves. I ended up putting on a thin layer and then just adding a touch of neat ink and spreading it out with the brush until it looked about right. The wash was then allowed to dry until it was just touch dry but not hardened off completely. This allowed me to then rub the road surface and the pavements with a series of cotton buds, removing some of the wash from the raised surfaces whilst leaving the colour in the depressions as seen in Photo 11. The ink wash was then allowed to dry completely before a final application of Mig Sandgrau and Vallejo Ivory, mixed about 1:1 and carefully dry-brushed along the lengths of the roads and paths. There will be some further ‘weathering’ added later but this will be with earth coloured powders to represent the tracks of the vehicles coming off the beach and the ejecta from the shell holes. The dry-brushed effect is shown in Photo 12. Photo 13 illustrates the first layer of paint for the grassed in areas, this was Vallejo Medium Olive, painted up to the walls and paths and allowed to dry completely before the next stage. Note that the paths around the buildings haven’t been painted yet, with the dry-brushing coming on the grass areas, they’ll be left till later to avoid over-spill.
Photos 14 and 15 show the garden area of the first house to better illustrate the technique for adding depth to the plain base colour, (it’s the only one with a hedge!). The first task is to add thinned down Citadel Skaven Brown Ink wash to the basic Medium Olive, making sure it gets down into the recesses in the grass and hedge. The effect this has can be seen in Photo 16 with the left hand side with the shell hole having been washed and the right hand side still in the base coat. Once the wash was completely dry I could then add the raised detail back into the hedge and lawn by dry-brushing with a mix of the Medium Olive and Vallejo Tan Yellow. After the first application I lightened the mix further with a little Vallejo Ivory and re-brushed just the most prominent parts. The final appearance of the greenery is shown in Photo 17.
In the next installment, finishing off the basic ground work with the shell holes whilst building up the courage to tackle that beach!Blink
Until then, Happy Modelling to you All!

Robin.

Plymouth57 attached the following image(s):
Painting the Base pic 3.JPG
Painting the Base pic 4.JPG
First wooden ship: The Grimsby 12 Gun 'Frigate' by Constructo Second: Bounty DelPrado Part Works Third: HMS Victory DelPrado Part Works 1/100 scale
Diorama of the Battle of the Brandywine from the American Revolutionary War Diorama of the Battle of New Falkland (unfinished sci-fi), Great War Centenary Diorama of the Messines Ridge Assault
Index for the Victory diary is on page 1
birdaj2
#95 Posted : 16 January 2020 00:00:33

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Robin

Love all the greenery areas. At first glance i thought you had used static grass but i am guessing at the scale you are working even the smallest of that product would be too tall.

Its very neat use of paint and effects to get the effect you have.

Really looking forward to your next update on this one.

Tony
Happy Modelling

BUILDING: Harley Davidson Fat boy, E-Type Jaguar, Lam. Countach, 1:200 Bismarck (Hachette)
SUBSCRIPTION COMPLETE (Awaiting building): USS Constitution
COMPLETED: Porsche 911
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