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Gandale's Vasa Build Options
mogwai
#341 Posted : 02 March 2020 11:41:14

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Hi stunning work there ,enjoying following your diary cheers mick.BigGrin
Builds hms victory, suzuki gsx 1300 R hayabusa, honda C B 750, lamborghini countach L P 500 S, tamiya 1/16 rc full option tiger 1 tank,
built, Mclaren M P 4 - 23. Occre london tram,
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tf64
#342 Posted : 02 March 2020 11:41:51

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Alan,

Your artwork is stunning, your rigging is stunning, well worth the many many hours you have spent building this model for all of us to view.

Kind Regards

Trev.
Building: Artesania Stage-Coach H.M.S.Victory / H.M.S. Victory Cross Section / De-Agostini Spitfire.

Full Kits: San Francisco. De-Ago Bremen. Sovereign of the seas. Artesania Stage-Coach Number 2.

Finished builds: Westland Lysander MK.11 plus large Diorama.

Gandale
#343 Posted : 02 March 2020 17:18:04

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Mick, Trev, thanks for your comments guys, appreciated....Cool Cool

Regards

Alan
Gandale
#344 Posted : 09 March 2020 17:31:07

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Stage 129 Contents: Barrels, Sail S2, Dummy Cannons, Wooden Strip and Wooden Dowel

Note: The build stages for pack 12 are all large and all involves a lot of work. For this reason, I have decided to break the stages down into parts for posting up on the forum and I envisage this stage consisting of 2 parts.

Part 1.

Prepare another jig for the positioning of the shrouds with the three nails at either end being 20mm apart. Ensure the nails match the holes in the deadeyes and are orientated correctly.

Insert the nails of the jig into one of the foremast chainwale deadeyes on the port side. Insert the nails at the other end of the jig into the deadeye of a DE1 shroud. Pass the free end of the shroud up through the foremast top, between the masts, around the foremast and back down through the top. Glue the line of the deadeye to the mast and cut off the excess when dry. Carefully remove the jig from the two deadeyes.

Rig the lanyard between the two deadeyes using a length of 0.15mm thread. If you are unsure how to carry out this task, then follow steps 5 and 6 of the instructions. Repeat to rig the first starboard shroud of the foremast. Now repeat the same process to rig the rest of the foremast shrouds. It is recommended to alternate sides with every shroud to avoid putting unnecessary pressure on the mast.

Follow the same process to rig the shrouds for the mainmast and the mizzenmast.

More to follow in part 2.

Store any unused parts in a bag labelled with this stage number.
Gandale attached the following image(s):
129-1.JPG
129-2.JPG
129-3.JPG
129-4.JPG
129-5.JPG
129-6.JPG
129-7.JPG
129-10.JPG
129-11.JPG
129-12.JPG
129-13.JPG
129-14.JPG
129-15.JPG
goddo
#345 Posted : 09 March 2020 19:36:02

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Alan, that is some serious skill there what with the paintwork, the rigging and also the photography to accompany the excellent instructions. Great work.
Chris
birdaj2
#346 Posted : 09 March 2020 19:43:20

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Alan

Neat idea with the little jig for the blocks.

I can see that works very well getting all of the blocks at the correct spacing.

Tony
Happy Modelling

BUILDING: Harley Davidson Fat boy, E-Type Jaguar, Lam. Countach, Hachette Spitfire Mk 1A
COLLECTING 1:200 Bismarck (Hachette)
SUBSCRIPTION COMPLETE (Awaiting building): USS Constitution
COMPLETED: Porsche 911
roymattblack
#347 Posted : 09 March 2020 20:08:29

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It's just mind-boggling.
I know I've said it before, but I almost want to wander around that ship somehow...
Astounding work.

Roy.
Markwarren
#348 Posted : 09 March 2020 22:31:46

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Excellent work Alan, take a picture of it in the right place and you’d pass that of as the real thing.Love Love Drool Drool

Mark
tf64
#349 Posted : 10 March 2020 14:23:14

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Hi Alan,

Top work as usual, I like the idea of the jig it does help.

Regards

Trev
Building: Artesania Stage-Coach H.M.S.Victory / H.M.S. Victory Cross Section / De-Agostini Spitfire.

Full Kits: San Francisco. De-Ago Bremen. Sovereign of the seas. Artesania Stage-Coach Number 2.

Finished builds: Westland Lysander MK.11 plus large Diorama.

Gandale
#350 Posted : 10 March 2020 23:31:52

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Thanks for looking in and all your comments guys, very much appreciated.....Cool Cool

Regards

Alan
Kev the Modeller
#351 Posted : 11 March 2020 21:51:55

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Top job as always Al, impressively neat and oh so colourful. Keep up the good work, will be following. Cool ThumpUp

Kev Smile
Per Ardua Ad Astra
Gandale
#352 Posted : 12 March 2020 01:06:04

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Thanks for looking in and your comments Kev, appreciated....Cool Cool ..

Regards

Alan
admin
#353 Posted : 12 March 2020 02:40:16
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This is looking fantastic! The serving on the shrouds is perfect. And, I’m seriously impressed with the paint on the port surrounds.
Mark Adams
Gandale
#354 Posted : 13 March 2020 00:07:09

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Thanks Mark, appreciated....CoolCool … Decoration painting for this build is certainly very challenging but does look good if done correctly....Cool Cool

Regards

Alan
DaDokta
#355 Posted : 20 March 2020 09:05:54

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Excellent craftsmanship as always! Stunning build!
Greetings,
Walter



Present builds:
HMS Victory

Builds started but currently on a hold:
AKAGI, Supermarine Spitfire, Hachette U-96

On the shelf:
HMS Victory Cross-section, Italeri "Fiat Mefistofele", Italeri "Moto Guzzi California", Fokker "Red Baron", Revell Bismarck, Revell Tirpitz, Arab Dow, Stage Coach, .....

Completed builds:
McLaren MP4/4, D-51
Gandale
#356 Posted : 21 March 2020 00:01:00

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Thanks Walter, appreciated.....Cool Cool .. Great to hear from you again...Cool Cool

Regards

Alan
birdaj2
#357 Posted : 21 March 2020 20:23:00

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lovely neat work on the ropework coming off of those blocks.

Such tiny parts but so nicely finished off - really looks good Alan.

Tony
Happy Modelling

BUILDING: Harley Davidson Fat boy, E-Type Jaguar, Lam. Countach, Hachette Spitfire Mk 1A
COLLECTING 1:200 Bismarck (Hachette)
SUBSCRIPTION COMPLETE (Awaiting building): USS Constitution
COMPLETED: Porsche 911
Gandale
#358 Posted : 06 April 2020 09:50:59

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Thanks Tony, very much appreciate your comments.....Cool Cool

Regards

Alan
Gandale
#359 Posted : 06 April 2020 09:52:09

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Stage 129 Part 2

In creating the ratlines the instructions call for the use of black 0.5mm thread and the gluing of the ratlines to each individual shroud. I decided to change this, so had a look into my spares box and found a spool of 0.25mm natural thread, the use of this I believe gives a more realistic look. I also decided not to glue the ratlines to the shrouds but to actually tie each one in place. A tedious and time consuming process however, those who do not wish to follow this process are of course free to fit the ratlines in accordance with the instructions. It is not my intention to detail how to tie ratlines onto the shrouds but to direct members, who wish to know how this achieved, to an excellent tutorial video on the process:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yMmGFWJhi8E

I started the ratlines on the lower foremast, setting each ratline 5mm apart and finishing 20mm from the foretop. I then completed the same process on the lower mainmast and mizzenmast.

Now pass a length of 0.5mm black thread through the foremast shrouds underneath the top ratline, then lead it around the mast to the shrouds on the other side and tie off in the middle, bring the shrouds further in just under the mast top. Repeat the process on the mainmast and mizzenmast.

Retrieve the four decorations from stage 124. Remove any flush or burrs then apply a coat of metal primer. Paint these decorations as outlined in the instructions. Glue one of the C61 decorations up against the grating aft of the foremast. Now glue the second decoration C61 and one of the C62 decorations into the positions shown in step 30 of the instructions. Store the final C62 decoration for now.

Make up a backstay with a 5mm block and black thread, following the same process to make the forestays. Tie the free end around the main crosstrees. Then take a second length of black thread and pass it through the block, tying it off around the decoration C61.

Continue rigging the bowsprit, using natural and black thread and five 5mm blocks. Rig the bowsprit by following image 32 of the instructions. Now rig another stay between the mizzen crosstrees and the port side main shrouds, using lack and natural threads, three 5mm blocks and two heart blocks. Again follow image 33 and tie the line off to the belaying pin. Repeat this step to rig the second mizzen topmast stay to the starboard shrouds.

Drill four holes with a 1mm bit on the port side of the fore top. Tie four lengths of black thread to deadeyes DE2. Pass the four lines through the four holes in the top. Tie the ends of the four lines to the top ratline, and then cut away the excess. Repeat these steps on the starboard side of the fore top.

Store any unused parts in a bag labelled with this stage number.

This build stage is now complete.

Gandale attached the following image(s):
129-16.JPG
129-17.JPG
129-18.JPG
129-19.JPG
129-20.JPG
129-21.JPG
129-22.JPG
129-23.JPG
129-24.JPG
129-25.JPG
129-26.JPG
129-27.JPG
129-28.JPG
129-29.JPG
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129-32.JPG
129-33.JPG
129-34.JPG
129-35.JPG
129-36.JPG
129-37.JPG
129-38.JPG
129-39.JPG
Kev the Modeller
#360 Posted : 06 April 2020 10:29:26

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Beautiful work as always Alan, you are a true craftsmen when it comes to period ship modelling!

Love those posts on the upper deck that seem to be painted with heads on them - they remind me of the figures in the old 'Camberwick Green' childrens' tv series from (too) many years ago! BigGrin ThumpUp

Kev
Per Ardua Ad Astra
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