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Who ya Gonna Call? Building Ecto-1 from Eaglemoss Options
Coser
#41 Posted : 20 May 2020 18:47:39

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Thank you.

I've just had the notification that my next delivery is on the way. Unfortunately I am going to have to hold off on working on those for a bit as they will make it really awkward to remove the engine. I am also spending time back on my Terminator now that I have all the parts up-to-date again.

I plan on removing the engine and weathering it first. I have seen Adam savage weather his, but in my opinion he has overdone the metal effects. He leaves practically none of the blue paint.

I will be adding the Cadillac logo in red, then protecting some of the colour and adding some metal and rust effects, notably around the exhausts, then adding some oil and grime around the engine.
Current Builds
Deagostini: R2-D2 [waiting for batteries]
Eaglemoss: Ecto-1, BTTF Delorean
Hachette: T800 Endoskeleton [waiting for parts]

molly
#42 Posted : 21 May 2020 10:18:52

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Coser
#43 Posted : 25 May 2020 18:14:07

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OK, let's get on with this.

My next delivery has arrived. This delivery expands the floor pan and chassis.

As I have prepared to weather the engine, this has been removed from the chassis front.



The first stage is easy, with only two clips to be attached to the underside.



This is mirrored on the other side of the transmission tunnel.



The second stage this delivery is the floor pan extension.



This will get screwed to the front floor pan with six screws.



I have now connected the floor pan to the previous stage. Having removed the engine, I will have to disconnect it later, replace the engine, and reattach it. Therefore there are some of the pipes that I am not connecting to the engine yet.







These two connectors then go at the rear, and will allow brake lines to connect through the transmission tunnel.



The longest one goes on this connector, then gets fed up the tunnel. I only used fuse wire in the ends of these pipes, the central section will be invisible inside the tunnel. For the areas inside the tunnel, I taped the pipe to the tunnel wall. This will not show due to the outer cover, but removes the possibility of them being snagged on the drive shaft later.



Further along, it gets passed through the clip and on further to the engine. This connection will be covered later, once I replace the engine.





This is repeated with the shorter tube. The longer tube goes around the engine, through the gap between engine and gearbox to the distribution valve. The shorter tube travels along the same side as the valve.



With both tubes installed, the central cover goes on.



The driveshaft. The main shaft is in two pieces, then there are the two universal joints (UJ's) made of two extra pieces and four screws each.



Join the two halves of the driveshaft. It will be possible to place this so that the screws are uppermost, although I am not sure how much will be visible with the final covers in place.



The first stage of constructing the UJs is screwing the cross pieces into the ends.



The UJs are then screwed into the driveshaft in the same manner. The one thing I noticed at this point was that there was significantly more movement in one direction than in the other. This system would not actually work as a functional UJ as movement in the driveshaft due to suspension travel would cause the UJ to lock.

Once the driveshaft is finished to this state, it is put aside for another delivery. I presume we will connect it when we work on the rear axle.



Final stage for this delivery. The rear frame.



The battery box frame fits in the rear frame. The two prongs fit in cut-outs in the underside.







Now this is where the delivery instructions end. Having said that, it is easy to work out which screws are required to attach the rear frame to the floor pan. This is one long vehicle. As long as the Barris Batmobile, I'd say. Enjoy.

Current Builds
Deagostini: R2-D2 [waiting for batteries]
Eaglemoss: Ecto-1, BTTF Delorean
Hachette: T800 Endoskeleton [waiting for parts]

eebygum
#44 Posted : 25 May 2020 22:22:05

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Coming along nicely this thing is going to be Huuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuge!!!
FINISHED BUILDS---- HMS Victory--Bismarck--Battleship Yamato-D51 Steam Train--Pocher Ferrari Testarossa--Soleil Royal--Schnellboot S-100--StageCoach 1848--HMS HOOD-- Delorean (Back to the Future)
Spal
#45 Posted : 26 May 2020 20:24:37

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That chassis is looking really long now,have you found a big space to display itBigGrin

Al
Coser
#46 Posted : 26 May 2020 22:19:01

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If it was any bigger, it'd have to sit in the drive!

Honestly, i have absolutely no idea at this point. Even if i were to finish re-building my Delorean, this is longer than that. Even as it stands right now, without the front or rear bumpers on, it is longer than the CASE for the Delorean and therefore won't sit on the same shelf, even if I was to move that.

The only thing I can think of is one of the two 'under the bed' boxes I have my current projects in. Having finally got the issues I have been waiting 6 months for on Hachette's Terminator, I will be able to empty one and use that to store this beast.

I am going to seriously run out of room this year, as I have just signed up for Agora Models AC Cobra build which will start in September. I have gone for the limited edition which means I have paid for, and will receive the first 5 stages in September, then another delivery each month for the following 7 months.

I currently live in a rented 'room', but am looking for a council place so I can get a load of stuff out of storage.
Current Builds
Deagostini: R2-D2 [waiting for batteries]
Eaglemoss: Ecto-1, BTTF Delorean
Hachette: T800 Endoskeleton [waiting for parts]

Coser
#47 Posted : 07 June 2020 12:15:12

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I have stripped down my engine and have started painting it. Still nothing really to show at the moment, but I have just received my magnetic licence plates from Mike Lane and wanted to show you.



The left hand set (Slime dripping down) is from the original film.
Top plate is the front plate from the film.
Next is the rear plate from the film, note the attachments on top, rather than the bottom.
Third is an aged plate - possibly from the up-coming GB3.
Finally, the plate issued to the car off the set.

The right hand plates (Ooze flowing up) are from the second film.

They all look great, and are an improvement on my original EM plate which only had the black edging lines on two sides - as if the plate had been cut wrongly from a sheet. However, the Mike Lane plates are entirely flat, none of the raised detail of the EM product.
Current Builds
Deagostini: R2-D2 [waiting for batteries]
Eaglemoss: Ecto-1, BTTF Delorean
Hachette: T800 Endoskeleton [waiting for parts]

Coser
#48 Posted : 12 June 2020 19:57:00

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I have now finished working on the exhaust manifolds and got them how I want them.

The silver of the parts may be OK for a brand new manifolds, but due to the heat generated by the gasses and the fact that even under the bonnet, the manifolds see plenty of water, they tend to go rusty quite quickly.



I have the Vallejo Rust and chipping effects paint set. These are mainly from their "Model Air" series of paints, specifically formulated for airbrush work. I used a £30 airbrush I got from Amazon. [I am not especially happy with this brush. The seals have swollen like mad, and it seems to be down to the fact that I have used Alclad paints and cleaner a few times, and is unfortunately an indication that it is a cheap copy of a much more expensive airbrush.]



So these are the parts before I started. Plain, silver plastic.



The first stage is using the surface primer supplied with this set. This gives a red brown colour to the parts. The paints are then used in order, from left to right in my picture. The next 2 are used in a random manner to replicate the basic rust pattern. The two after that are used where the metal would have gotten the hottest, so for these parts by each of the exhaust ports.







The set then supplies a yellow ochre, but I decided that this was not appropriate for the manifolds that I was working on. The next bottle is the chipping solution, designed to allow you to paint the rust, apply the chipping solution, paint the main colour, then remove the main colour where the chipping solution was added. This will give an impression of the rust coming through from underneath the paint, especially on a car. Finally there is some matt varnish, which I used. I now have a decent set of rusty exhausts ready to hand paint some metal details.

Unfortunately my camera seems to wash out the colours on the parts, but here is what I have on the current state of the parts.

Current Builds
Deagostini: R2-D2 [waiting for batteries]
Eaglemoss: Ecto-1, BTTF Delorean
Hachette: T800 Endoskeleton [waiting for parts]

Markwarren
#49 Posted : 13 June 2020 08:14:12

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Nice work on the manifolds.Love

Mark
Coser
#50 Posted : 29 June 2020 21:52:19

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Thanks Mark.
computer has been of-line for a while, and my mental state has not been great. Been diagnosed with High Functioning Autism (HFA, or Aspergers) and I'll be 52 next week. Don't know if I can get another job after quitting my last one back in December due to the stress they were putting me under.

I now have the next delivery, but I am still working on the engine. As long as the weather holds I should have some progress later this week IF I can get a white that is not too runny to work as the base coat for the red on the rocker covers.

I have been getting some help thanks to a guy on Youtube - Jared Halley. Listening to his Acapella music is amazing, he harmonises with himself so that there are up to 20 of him singing different parts of the song. I can heartily recommend his Green Day Medley, Africa by Toto, and Country Roads by John Denver as three of my favourites, amongst others.

Hope to be posting again soon.

Gary
Current Builds
Deagostini: R2-D2 [waiting for batteries]
Eaglemoss: Ecto-1, BTTF Delorean
Hachette: T800 Endoskeleton [waiting for parts]

roymattblack
#51 Posted : 30 June 2020 17:04:38

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Superb work on those manifolds... It's really looking great.BigGrin
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