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Official HMS Sovereign of the Seas Build Diary - Issues 11 - 15 Options
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#1 Posted : 26 October 2012 12:11:32
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Mark Adams
Tomick
#2 Posted : 13 November 2012 16:35:01

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Issue 11 - Contains the lower deck sections.

Adding the deck sections - Note that Issue 12 contains pin-nails, and advises to pin the deck sections where they rest upon the frames. Therefore you might want to hold off on gluing the deck sections until you receive the next Issue, where the deck sections can be pinned and glued at the same time.

Take one of the forward deck bases (31). With a pencil and set-square, draw three lines from the centres of the three upper slots. Repeat the same operation on the second deck base 31.

Take the false keel and spread glue on the right half of the upper edge of each of the first four front rib frames.
With the face marked by lines facing upwards, fit and fix the first deck base on the glued surfaces (the back edge of the deck base should exactly cover half of rib frame 13).

Fit and glue the second deck base 31 on the other half of the upper edges of the rib frames. Ensure that all of the deck sections are seated flat upon the frame tops and remain so while the glue sets.

Now, take two central deck bases 32. Mark three straight lines on deck bases 32, corresponding to the centre of the slots, and put glue on the right half of the top edges of the central rib frames 13, 15, 16, 20 and 21.

As before, fit and fix the first deck base 32 on the glued surface. Fit and fix the second deck base 32 on the other half of the upper edges of the rib frames.

Make sure that deck bases 32 are well aligned with the 31s, and that the central circular hole (designed to accommodate the mast) is as regular as possible.

Fit the last two deck bases 33 as you did in the previous steps, and fix one of them on the right half of the upper edges of the stern frames 21, 22 and 26.

To complete the lower deck, fix and glue the second deck base 33, carefully checking the alignment and the regularity of the central mast hole.

Fitting the hull planking to the Launch framework- Take the launch assembly and the 0.6 x 3mm wooden strips provided in Issue 8.

Fix one to the left-hand side of the launch, immediately above the one you fixed in the assembly described in the last issue, (do not glue the planking to the #3 ribs).
Cut the strip level with last stern frame and fix the remainder on the opposite side. Then, make a pencil mark in the centre of the arch of each rib frame.

Take two other strips and, using a sanding block, shape the planks as shown to give a pointed shape to fit the top of the bow frame.
Glue one of the strips on the back of the launch: fix the pointed end to the top of the bowstem 2 and proceed toward the stern, aligning the inner side with the centre line marked earlier.

Similarly, glue the second strip adjacent to, and symmetrical with, the first; then cut both at the height of the stern frame and keep the surplus.

Cut another strip in half and shape its end, so that it appears a little narrower towards the bow than towards the stern.

Glue the strip to the left-hand side of the launch, just above the two already fixed, then repeat with the other half of the strip, fixing it symmetrically on the opposite side.
As you did earlier, give two other strips the correct shape and glue them alongside those already fixed, in the position shown in the step photo.

After shaping them as before, glue another two strips, adding them to those already fixed on the opposite sides of the hull, as shown in the step photo.

Following the same method, and moving further down, add another shaped strip to each side of the launch.

Continue shaping and adding the planking, and finally add other small shaped pieces to plug any remaining gaps, then gently sand and close all the joints with PVA glue. Be mindful that the hull planking is very thin so as not to sand through the planking.

That's it for this stage, carefully store the Launch structure and remaining 0.6x3x250 strips for use later on.

Future Issues:

Issue 12 - Contains dummy gun support beams, deck support beams, pin-nails, brass strip and brass mesh.

Issue 13 - Contains an anchor, thread, oars, dowel, wood strips and a bucket.

Issue 14 - Contains the middle deck sections.

Issue 15 - Contains laser-cut gallery parts.
Tomick attached the following image(s):
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Tomick
#3 Posted : 19 November 2012 09:16:51

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Issue 12 - Contains dummy gun support beams, deck support beams, pin-nails, brass strip and brass mesh.

Securing the lower deck sections - Using a pin hammer, pin the lower deck sections to the frames, along the lines that you drew in the previous issue. Dot not place any pins closer than 10mm in front of the frames.

Adding the dummy gun support beams - Insert a 3x13x250mm wooden strip (without glue) into the lower slots of frames 13, 15, 16, 20 and 21; the front end of the strip must cover only half of frame 13.
Mark a line on the strip with a pencil, corresponding to half of frame 21. Remove the strip and saw off the part beyond the line you have drawn.

Glue the strip in the lower slots of the frames, as in the photo. The two ends of the strip must cover exactly half of frames 13 and 21.

Repeat on the oposite side of the deck.

Take another 3x13x250mm strip and make a pencil line at the length indicated in the step photo and saw off the excess.

On the shortened strip make two pencil lines at the lengths indicated in the steps, then saw a slight groove on each of the lines (no deeper than 2mm), which will assist in curving the beam to fit in place.

Glue the strip into the lower slots of frames 5, 6, 7 and 13 (the groove cut side facing inwards), then hold with clamps while the glue sets.

Repeat with another strip, gluing it to the same numbered rib frames on the opposite side of the deck.

Take frame 27 assembly (assembled in Issue 9) and locate it, without glue, into the slot of stern section 23.

Take the fifth 3x13mm strip and, as before, draw a line at the length indicated in the step, then saw off the excess.
Mark on the shortened strip another line at the length indicated in the step; then saw a slight groove on the line no deeper than 2mm.
Glue and bend the strip into the lower slots of frames 21, 22 and 26. Do Not glue these beams to the face of frame 27, (the overhang of these beams will be cut flush with frame 26 later on).

Repeat on the opposite side of the deck with the last 3x13x250mm strip.

You have now completed the lower deck dummy gun support beams. Remove the frame 27 assembly from the keel and store for further assembly later on at Issue 15.

Adding the deck support beams of the middle deck - Take a 2x4x250mm plywood strip and place one end end in the lowest deck support of frame 15, as shown in the photo, then make a pencil mark at the opposite end. (The deck suports strips need to be snug, but not so tight that they bow)

Cut off the excess and glue the ends onto the supports of the frame.

You have now created the first middle deck support beam. With the remaining strips, add deck supports to the remaining nine frames of this deck all along the same deck level, (do not add a beam to frame 27).

That's it for this stage, carefully store the remaining parts and offcuts which may be used later on.

Future issues:

Issue 13 - Contains an anchor, thread, oars, dowel, wood strips and a bucket.

Issue 14 - Contains deck sections.

Issue 15 - Contains laser-cut gallery parts.

Issue 16 - Contains laser-cut gallery frame parts, bamboo & sapele planking strips and pins.
Tomick attached the following image(s):
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Tomick
#4 Posted : 22 November 2012 11:10:45

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Issue 13 - Contains ship's boat fittings: anchor, thread, oars, dowel, wooden strips and a bucket.

Continuing the ship's boat assembly - Take the boat and the two 0.6 x 3 x 250mm strips remaining after the assembly in Issue 11.

Use fine sandpaper to carefully smooth any irregularities on the hull.

Bend one of the of the 0.6 x 3 x 250mm strips and glue it along the side of the boat, resting it on the protruding edges of the frames, as the shown in the steps, then repeat on the opposite side of the hull, then cut off the excess and smoth the ends flush with the transom.

Use a razor saw to cut the rib frame supports as shown in the steps. Proceed with great care along each of the frames and taking note of the scored line on the transom. Then carefully separate the boat from the jig, and the jig then discarded.

Use cutters and a craft knife with a fresh blade to remove what remains of the frames above the gunwales, so they are level with the gunwale. Work with particular care in this phase as the boat is very delicate. Then use a nail file or similar to remove any roughness remaining on the frames and also level and round off the frame tops ends to achieve the result shown in the steps.

Retreive the ships boat fret provided with Issue 8 and cut out the keel (part #17).

Place the keel along the centre of the hull and make any necessary adjustments for a good fit. Then glue it in place along the centre of the hull.
When the glue has fully set, use a sanding block to remove any overhang at the stern so that it is flush with the transom. Then sand any laser-ash from the keel.

Anchor assembly - Use a metal file to remove any burrs from the parts.
Glue the anchor stock in place as shown, then paint the anchor with metal primer, paint the stock brown, and its bands and anchor metallic black.

That's it for this stage, carefully store the remaining parts and anchor. The ship's boat assembly will be continued in the next stage.

Future issues:

Issue 14 - Contains deck sections.

Issue 15 - Contains laser-cut gallery parts.

Issue 16 - Contains laser-cut gallery frame parts, bambo planking, sapele planking and pins.

Issue 17 - Contains bamboo & sapele wooden planking strips and pin-nails.
Tomick attached the following image(s):
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Tomick
#5 Posted : 29 November 2012 11:00:15

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Joined: 24/08/2009
Posts: 47,388
Points: -9,688
Issue 14 - Contains deck sections for the middle deck.

Completing the gun support beams - Take the hull assembled so far, and using a razor saw, cut off the aft overhang of both gun support beams where they extend past frame 26, then smooth the cut.

Fitting the middle deck - Starting at the bow, fit and glue each of the deck sections in turn along the length of the hull so that they all align with each other.
When the glue has fully dried, paint the section between the frames and the lower deck black and repeat on the opposite side of the hull.

Continuing the ship's boat - To make the hull rubbing strips, cut a 1mm wide strip (approx the length of the boat) from the 0.6x3mm strip provided in Issue 13.
Note the positioning and length of the strip upon the hull, then glue the strip in place as shown, gently sand/taper each end of the strip. Repeat on the opposite side of the hull.

Mark the positions of the oar slots as shown, then carefully cut each of the four slots along both sides of the boat using a needle file, 2mm deep.

To fit the thwart supports, measure 4mm down from the top of the hull and mark a line as shown in the steps.
Take a second length of 0.6x3m strip, cut it to 82mm long, then and glue it in place along the marked line. Repeat on the opposite side of the hull.

That's it for this stage, carefully store the ships boat until the next stage, where the interior and exterior is painted.

Future Isues:

Issue 15 - Contains laser-cut gallery parts.

Issue 16 - Contains laser-cut gallery frame parts, bamboo & sapele planking strips and pin-nails.

Issue 17 - Contains bamboo & sapele planking strips and pin-nails.

Issue 18 - Contains bamboo & sapele planking strips and pin-nails.
Tomick attached the following image(s):
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Tomick
#6 Posted : 07 December 2012 09:05:37

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Joined: 24/08/2009
Posts: 47,388
Points: -9,688
Issue 15 - Contains laser-cut gallery framework parts.

Constructiong the gallery framework - You may find that the fit of some of the parts have a sloppy fit and care needs to be taken in positioning them.

Cut the two #34 brackets and the gallery lower deck #44 from the fret. (the image shows the #34 parts flush with the front edge but you may find this is not quite so as shown in my images).

Apply glue to the upper edge of one of the #34 brackets, fit it upside down into the gallery lower deck 44, then repeat with the second bracket, and ensure both are set at 90 degrees upright.

Retrieve the frame #27 assembly made in issue 9. Apply apply glue to the edge of the two #34 brackets at the two notches indicated, then join the gallery lower deck 44 and the two #34 brackets with the frame 27 assembly.

Cut the first central strut #43 from the fret, apply glue lightly to the bottom edge of the piece and fit it into the gallery lower deck 44, then repeat with the second #43 central strut. Make sure that both struts are perpendicular to the gallery lower deck.

Cut the #42 gallery upper deck from the fret, apply glue on the upper edges of the two #43 central struts and on the side ends of the #42 gallery upper deck.

Cut the first of the two rear #45 struts from the fret, apply glue along the edges of the notches indicated by the arrows, then join the strut to the gallery assembly. Make sure that it fits with the two gallery decks (lower 44 and upper 42) and with bracket 30 at the points indicated in the steps.
Repeat with the second #45 strut on the opposite side of the gallery assembly, (I added infill scraps of wood into the angled gap at both).

Painting the ship's boat - If you have opted for the painted finish, paint the exterior ivory white and the interior burgundy/maroon, (I used Humbrol RC417 & RC418).

That's it for this stage, carefully store the ship's boat.

Future issues:

Issue 16 - Contains laser-cut gallery frame parts, bambo planking, sapele planking and pins.

Issue 17 - Contains bamboo & sapele wooden planking strips and pin-nails.

Issue 18 - Contains bamboo & sapele planking strips and pin-nails.

Issue 19 - Contains bamboo & sapele planking strips and pin-nails.
Tomick attached the following image(s):
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