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Official HMS VIctory Build Diary Issue 21 - 25 Options
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#1 Posted : 23 August 2010 11:51:29
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Tomick
#2 Posted : 23 August 2010 13:05:28

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Issue 21: Planking of the upper half of the Hull & trimmimg of the Gallery planking.

Trimming of the Gallery planking - Use a plank to get the correct line across the ends of the gallery planking, and then trim the ends of the planks to form a smooth line from the stern frames onto the gallery supports.

Planking of the Hull - Firstly, you should alsways plank the model evenly, left and right. That means when you have fixed one plank on the left side you should then place the equivalent plank on the right side, this will prevent the hull being twisted by uneven forces from the planks.
The planking will be laid in a 'brickwork' fashion, you need to place the vertical joints so they do not line up, you should also ensure that the planks are glued to each other along their length (above/below).

For those building the model with the Cutaway you should follow the relevant instructions for this feature

The first plank is located onto the left (port) side between frames 24 and 17, align the bottom of the plank flush so that it is flush with the underside of the lower gun deck which means it wil have a slight curve along its length.
Mark the plank and cut it to length so that each end will finish in line with the middle of the frame at each end, apply PVA glue along the edge of the deck between frames 17 and 24 with and extra blob where the plank sits upon each frame, pin the plank in place and remove any excess glue.
Repeat on the other side of the model, though on the Cutaway side the plank will end at frame 20 and sit flush with the inside edge of the frame, and will be the case for 10 rows.

The first row of planking follows the underside of the lower deck and therfore will have a slight end to end camber which follows the slight deck camber.

Take another plank to the rear of the first and mark it where it just overhangs the gallery planking and cut off and secure into place as before, then repeat at the other side.

The next plank will curve around the bow, butt it to the first plank and mark where the hull framework starts to curve towards the bow, from this point the plank will need to be bent using your chosen method, (plank bending pliers, steaming, electric or wet bending), the plank should follow a natural curve around the bow, mark its end at the start of the false keel, cut off and glue/pin into place.
When the oposite plank is placed and cut in the same manner this will create a 4mm gap at the false keel where later on the planks will be trimmed further to suit the addition of the real keel, for the Cutaway side the bow plank starts at frame 17.

The second row of planking will start further over, from the middle of frame 16 to the middle of frame 23, mark and cut to length, and you will also need to slightly chamfer the inside edge of the planking as it rises, this is is to meet with the frame/hull curvature known as 'tumblehome', apply glue and secure as before, and repeat on the opposite side.

The Third row of planking is cut to fit between frames 18 and 25, complete as before.


Issue 22 continues the planking and the lower deck gun ports are marked/cut at issue 23.






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Tomick
#3 Posted : 23 August 2010 13:10:54

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Tomick
#4 Posted : 27 August 2010 12:24:06

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Issue 22: Planking of the upper half of the Hull continued.

Layer 4 is started between frames 17 and 24 not forgetting to chamfer the bottom edges as before and to apply glue across the bottom of the plank.
On the Cutaway (starboard) side, continue to omit the planks between frames 17 and 21 as described on pages 11/12 of issue 21, complete the 4th layer as before noting that the rear plank overhangs the gallery supports a little.

Layer 5 is started between frames 16 and 23, complete this layer and note that the rear planks overhang the end of the gallery supports, and that the top sits above the level of the gallery supports, it will be sanded down later, but leave it for now.

Layer 6 is started between frames 15 and 22, note that you'll have to make a bigger chamfer on the bottom edge of these planks to prevent a gap opening up, as the curvature of the hull (tumblehome) is getting tighter, cut the rear planks so that they overhang the last frame (30) by 1 or 2mm; they will also need to reduced in width by about 1.5mm over the last 130mm, draw a taper line and sand to creat the 1.5mm taper, then fix into place in the same way as the previous planks.

Fit the forward planks in the same manner as previous planks, they does not need to be tapered, allow the glue to dry and cut-off or remove all the pins.


Issue 23 contains more planks and pins, the build content is the marking and cutting of the lower deck Gun Ports.
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Tomick
#5 Posted : 03 September 2010 11:42:13

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Issue 23 - Cutting of the lower deck Gun Ports.

The cutting of the gun ports is a time consuming process and will be done in three phases.

Both sides of the ship are identical other than if you've opted for the Cutaway on the starboard side where you can ignore these gun ports.
There are 16 ports on each side, all of which are positioned just forward of the adjacent frame so that one side of the gun port is flush with the frame - except in the case of the port closest to the stern, which comes midway between frames 29 and 30, and the second of the two closest to the bows, the latter is mideway between frames 13 and 14.

Carfully mark the ports, then double check all the positions are correct before starting to drill the centres. Mark the positions of both edges of the frames onto the hull side by using a curved plank, there is no need to mark the rear edge of the stern frame 30, or any of the bow formers forward of frame 12.

All the ports are 12mm square holes with the lower edge in line with the top of the first plank. The 13 ports in the cente of the hull all have their sternmost side in line with the edge of the rib frames, carefully pencil-in the squares using a ruler or make a 12mm square jig plate, then draw diagonals across each port square to locate the centre point.

The gun ports are positioned parallel to the waterline, this means that those close to the bow and stern, where the planks slope upwards, will not be exactly square to the line of the planks, the port ahead of frame 12 should be positioned with its botom corner just touching the joint between the planks. The gun port closest to the stern comes midway between frames 29 and 30, make sure you keep its sides parallel to the frames.

Use a sharp point to make a small hole in the centre of each port which will help centre the 2mm drill bit, or use drill bit which has a centering pin, you must ensure that each hole is drilled parallel to the gun deck and square to the planking, and is also drilled into the gun barrel support beam at the rear of each gun port (which will be used for the mounting of gun barrels), then carefully cut-out each gun port by the method described in the magazine, and use such as a nail file emery board the surfaces.

Repeat the process on the other side of the hull which completes the cutting of the lower deck gun ports.


Issue 24 contains the build stand and another 12-pounder gun, and continues the planking of the hull and the shaping of planks at the stern.
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Tomick
#6 Posted : 10 September 2010 11:18:29

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Issue 24 contains a 12-pounder canon, building stand, a template outline, and info for the trimming of the stern planks around the gallery, and the laying of the next planks.

Construct the canon to match those made previously.

Build stand - The assembly is straight forward though identify the difference between the two curved frames, which will correspond with the curvature of frames 18 and 23, you could also add a corner fillet block into each corner of the frame to give it better rigidity.

Trimming of the stern planks - Trim the overhanging ends of the stern planks to follow the profile of the gallery, then carefully cut the top plank flush with frame 30, but stop when the saw gets to the top of the gallery supports, then level the excess planking so that it sits flush with the top of the gallery supports.

Page 12 contains a template profile which needs to be transferred to stiff card, (such as the back of a cereal packet), the template needs to match exactly. Note that the first template photo shown contains incorrect wording, it should read 'This point lines up with the rear of frame 30' which as per the wording noted in second template photo, therefore the template should be aligned with the rear of frame 30 as per photo 5 of this diary build.

Laying of the next planks - (for the Cutaway section, continue to omit planks where the cutaway will be).
Fit the first plank in layer 7 between frames 24 and 17, then fit the aft plank (but do not secure in place), and put the template against the hull, making sure it lines up with the bottom plank and the front of frame 27, mark the end of the plank and cut to length. This plank will also need to be tapered by about 1mm along its length, which is to keep the line of planks parallel to the deck line rather than rising upwards towards the stern, sand the taper and glue/pin the plank into position.

To prevent the planking rising too far around frames 12 to 14, the forward plank needs to be tapered from about frame 13 towards the bow by about 1mm, draw a guide line for the taper, then glue/pin into position.

Continue planking the next two layers and use the template to check the stern overhang cut:

Layer 8, the first plank sits from frame 16 to 23.

Layer 9, the first plank sits from frame 15 to 22 (the stern plank in layer 9 does not need to be tapered).


Issue 25 contains two 12-pounder guns and covers the planking of the forward bulkhead and cutting of the stern gun ports.

Issue 26 contains more planking/pins and continues the planking of the hull.


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Tomick
#7 Posted : 10 September 2010 11:23:02

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Tomick
#8 Posted : 17 September 2010 10:50:45

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Issue 25 contains two 12-pounder canon, and deals with the planking of the forward bulkhead and the cuttong of the Stern gun ports.

The canon's are assembled as previously described.

Planking of the forward bulkhead - If you find that the tabs of the two 7a parts are protruding through the part 7 bow formers, sand the front of the bow formers flush.

Hold a length of plank against the bottom of the part 7 bow formers, allowining a small overlap at each end of 1 to 2mm, then glue the plank where it contacts with the part 7 bow formers, before you pin into place ensure that the rear of the part #7 formers is supported with a scrap of wood to prevent breakage, pin the plank into place but being careful not to drive the pin in too far to avoid pinning the scrap of wood.
Continue the planking up the bulkhead, noting that the last plank extends above the frames, leave to fully dry, where you can remove the pins and trim/sand flush the ends of the planks to suit the end shape of the #7 parts, you should not trim the top of the last plank, leave it proud of the frames as it will be cut to height later on.

Cutting of the Stern gun ports - Two gun ports need to be cut underneath the gallery supports, the process is similar to the cutting of the gun ports in the hull sides, except that part of these holes have a frame behind each.

Draw two short lines parallel to the planking, 4mm from the face of frame 34, then draw two lines at right angles to the first two, positioning them 24mm from the outer edge of the gallery at the point where you drew the first lines, then use a ruler (or the gun port template you made previously), to measure two 12mm squares starting at the corners of the drawn lines, this gives you the outline of the two stern gun ports to be cut, cut-out each the square, being aware that a frame edge lies beneath each port, and finish the port edges.


Issue 26 contains more planking/pins and continues the planking of the hull.

Issue 27 contains more planking/pins and canon support strips, and contains instruction for the cutting of the middle deck gun ports.

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