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Experten's McLaren Options
experten
#1 Posted : 08 April 2014 18:05:13

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Hi Guys,

I have been quietly picking away at my MP4/23, and here is the unveil of my build log. You-all over on that side of the pond are mostly completed, so this is mainly directed at the American folks who are just getting rolling. I am going to gloss over the first few steps (parts packs) as most everyone has seen and done these. I have a build log going on the F1 forums, but wanted to have one here as well.

The kit is simply fantastic. The only issue I have had is that the screws are quite tight, and the wee, little, bitty screwdriver provided wasn't quite up to the task by itself. My way around this was to place the smallest of drops of my cement of choice th the base of the problematic screw, and let the capillary action draw it into the hole. This softens the screw hole just enough to let the screw thread in easily.

Here are a few pics of my build so far.
experten attached the following image(s):
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Tomick
#2 Posted : 08 April 2014 20:09:49

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Good to see you get started on this one.. Cool
experten
#3 Posted : 09 April 2014 05:38:54

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I started it quite a while ago, but it stalled due to my general state of drugged stupidity. It is good to get back at the bench though! I have LOTS of pics to post!!
experten
#4 Posted : 04 May 2014 17:20:08

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Hi Guys,

Here are some more pics of my build. as others have noted, the kit virtually falls together, and is assisted by only a few screws. I have found that when inserting the screws, they are EXTREMELY tight. As opposed to trying to find a metric drill bit, or a numbered or lettered bit of the appropriate size, I merely start the screw, and then apply the tiniest drop of liquid cement. (applied with my 'Touch and Flow" applicator) This has the effect of lubricating the offending screw, and it threads in nicely.
experten attached the following image(s):
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experten
#5 Posted : 12 May 2014 07:20:41

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OK, I realize I skipped over a bit there, namely the front wheels and brake units. (A note to self; never, EVER again upload 191 photos to Photobucket, and then try and make sense out of it all!!!)

Anyway, I'll go back, show a couple of photos, and then pick up with the engine.

The front braking units are marvelous. These are where you really start to get a feel for what the kit is going to be all about. The detail is fantastic, and the fit is really good. The ducts could benefit from a spot of filler, but I am trying to actually FINISH this model, so I am building straight OOB, with things left as they are. There is an incredible set of carbon fiber decals that HLJ has, as well as Autograph. Again, I am holding myself to OOB, but if you want to really spiff up your model..

With parts pack 2, we also get to start the rear wing, and this gets wrapped up in Parts pack 3. This is where the MP4/23 really looks like a re-entry vehicle! There are wings, on wings!

The engine is gorgeous. It is metal, and it has a satin finish to it that just looks fantastic. It will be mostly covered up, but you'll know it is there! I ran into a bit of a problem getting good contact on the left and right engine block parts. they wanted to splay out from the engine base, but as you can see, the strategic placement of 2 toothpicks got the pressure I needed. The "engine covers" also get installed in Parts pack 3. (I think these are the cylinder blocks??)

Here are the pics!

experten attached the following image(s):
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experten
#6 Posted : 21 May 2014 06:06:42

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Ok! I've managed to get some more pics sorted out of the hell that is my Photobucket account.

Issue 4 here in the States deals with the engine, gearbox, gearbox cowl, and some "tension rod diffusers."

The engine is magnificent. It is perfectly coated in silver, and the fit is very, very good.

The gearbox goes together well also. However, I made a bit of a mistake here, and had to pry the whole assembly apart when I discovered I had the driveshafts in so they angled the wrong way! PAY CLOSE ATTENTION HERE! They should cant forwards!!

The gearbox housing and associated bits go together well. No surprises here. I'd caution against using the tape as pictured in the manual though. This can cause your adhesive ti be drawn under the tape, and as a result, your finish will be messed up to a fare-thee-well!

The gearbox cowls were a bit of a challenge. Despite the warning to use tape, which I did, my screwdriver slipped, and put a bit of a scratch in the cowl. I'd strongly recommend 2 layers of tape if you are using the dollar tree crap. I used blue-tape the second go around, and didn't have any issues. The screws are EXTREMELY tight, and I have taken to putting a tiny day of TENAX7R into the holes. This softens the plastic enough to thread the screw easily, and then it dries around the screw, creating perfect threads.

Now, the pics!
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experten
#7 Posted : 21 May 2014 06:21:11

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More pics
experten attached the following image(s):
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experten
#8 Posted : 24 May 2014 16:49:32

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Hi All,

A bit more of an update. I’ll try and get myself caught up this weekend!

US pack 5 starts with the start of the rear suspension. There is a really sexy little bit of metal, the rear upper suspension arms. This gets installed after 2 very small bits from pack 19 get screwed to the diffusers. When installing these, make sure you don’t over tighten them, as you will need to be able to position them later.
Once these are on, you get to install the rear brake units. It actually starts to look like something at this stage, and will get you really going!

The pack 30 part is a wheel rim, but this gets used later. The actual work is the installation of the part mentioned above, which really firms up the rear end. (tell your wife about this!!)
Pack 31 has you assemble the wheel. I did not take pics of this, as it is the same as the other 2 wheels.

Set 32 is the Injector unit. There is a sprue of pre-painted parts, that create the injector unit. Take care when applying adhesive here, as the paint is easily damaged.

***A note here; I decided a while ago to completely disregard the assembly instructions as regards the application of the glue. Most, if not all, the parts can have liquid cement from the inside with the parts held together. The glue will be drawn along the joint via capillary action, and the chances of glue running down the edge are almost nil. Trying to apply glue to an edge that is 1/16 or less, with bad vision is a no go!!***

Pack 33 is more injector unit assembly. This includes the induction box. (air scoop) I did NOT use tape. There is just too much risk of the adhesive running along the underside if the tape, and messing up the surface of the part.

Set 34 includes parts for the engine cover, and includes 2 bits of gold foil. The foil is kind of fun to apply. I recommend applying this while you are slightly irritated, as you get a better wrinkled finish. To get the wrinkle, you wad it up repeatedly, from various directions, until it starts to separate from the backing. This then gets applied to the injector box sides.

The next step (35)is to screw on the lower engine covers. To do this, you get to UNSCREW part of the rear suspension. I found that the parts go in/on if you rotate them in from a 11:00 position (or 1:00, depending)
experten attached the following image(s):
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experten
#9 Posted : 24 May 2014 17:07:34

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more pics
experten attached the following image(s):
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experten
#10 Posted : 24 May 2014 17:44:36

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Just cranking them out here!

In the US parts set 6, you start with the first part of the underbody. (aka floor pan) There are 2 curved parts you glue in. when I first saw these, I was thinking “why??” but I realized that as the part was cast, there was no way to do it as one piece without huge sink marks resulting. The 2 curved pieces enable the part to be molded without sink marks. These parts are a extremely good fit. I brushed my TENAX7R along the edge, and voila!

In pack 37, there are more underbody parts. The 2 skirts have me a bit confused. The shape is vastly different from side to side, and it seems to be that way in the instructions, but not to the degree my parts have. We’ll see… applying these parts required careful application of the adhesive. I couldn’t do it from the inside, so careful brushwork was required.

Pack 38 has the gearbox cowl supports. These get affixed to the inside of the floor pan. You also install the skirts.

Pack 39 has the rest of the floor pan. It really starts to get you going to see the rest of the car! I am itching to get it on all 4 wheels now. In joining the front and rear floor pans, I LIBERALLY applied adhesive, and let it dry while flat on the table.

Set 40 is more underbody parts, including the “bargeboard stays.” These had me really confused for a bit. The angle of the photos in the instructions led me to think that the parts were flush against the body, but such is not the case. They are actually about ¼” away, with just the smallest contact points. When you get done installing these, the underbody looks like it got tangled up in an octopus.

Sets 41, and 42 deal with the damper units. These are pre-painted. When you cut sprue, there is a really ugly mark as a result of the plastic being black. Fortunately, all these marks are hidden when everything is assembled. These 2 steps are the first really complex assembles I have encountered. In hindsight, these parts might REALLY look good if one were to airbrush different shades of Alclad on the various parts. There were no real tricks in assembling here, but pay very close attention to the instructions!
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experten
#11 Posted : 24 May 2014 17:47:32

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more pics
experten attached the following image(s):
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Gary O
#12 Posted : 24 May 2014 18:05:57

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Looks great! I may have to subscribe someday!

D51, Senna McLaren. Pocher Alfa Romeo 8C-2300 Monza 1931 1/8 scale. Pocher Lamborghini Aventador white roadster.Tamiya 1/12 Ferrari Enzo. Toyota GT2000.
experten
#13 Posted : 24 May 2014 18:24:01

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Last update!!

Pack 43 is the parts for the cockpit tub. The actual construction is for the “crank assembly.” This is another one of those pretty complex assemblies. Pay close attention to the instructions here. One thing I would recommend is that if you are cutting parts off of the sprues with a knife, run, don’t walk out, and get yourself a set of sprue cutters! These make all the difference in the world!

Pack 44 is more parts for the cockpit tube, and underbody connectors. Why these are include here, I don’t know! It would have made more sense to Have installed them when the underbody was assembled, as they would have been an aid in keeping it all flat. But, here they are! The crank assembly also gets installed.

When installing the cockpit base, DO NOT get ahead of yourself, and glue it in, as well as screws. You will be removing this part later!! (No, I did not glue it in. I got lucky!) The last work in this stage is to install the connector.

Pack 45 has 2 beautifully painted body panels. The work that is performed is the installation of the various damping assemblies. In installing the torsion bar assembly, I discovered that mine did not quite fir into the holes in the frame, and required some careful “adjustment.” (re; bending) This whole area really starts to look spiffy with all these intricate parts installed.

Pack 46 is pre-painted underbody parts. These are the parts for the nose. This is a case where applying the adhesive as directed is a recipe for disaster, IMHO. I applied the glue from the inside, and it looks perfect!

Parts set 47 is various detail parts for the cockpit. This really starts to make the cockpit look busy. I think that painting the parts different shades of black would really pop the detail. When assembling the “cockpit under panel” take care not to cut off both switch panels. I did this, and it took a while to figure out which was which, and I still am not sure I got them right!

Set 49 is more cockpit tub parts. These are the front and rear frames, and the seat mount. There is a bit of dry fitting here/ Also, remember that cockpit floor that you screwed but DID NOT glue in earlier? You’ll find out why here. This gets dryfit on the floor pan, and the seat mount gets dryfit to the floor pan, but glued to the cockpit floor.
Parts pack 50 is the radiator parts. These do not get used now though. The work performed is the installation of the cockpit detail parts included in set 47. The “right and left” cockpit parts are a bit of a PITA to install. The contact areas are not real positive, so a liberal application of glue is required. The driver’s water bottle is also installed. That wraps it up for this issue, and is all the parts I have for now!
experten attached the following image(s):
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experten
#14 Posted : 24 May 2014 18:26:56

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More pics
experten attached the following image(s):
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experten
#15 Posted : 05 October 2014 06:23:57

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Parts set 8

Hi guys! Yep! I am more or less alive, and am back building. (actually, this beaut is done, but more on that later)

For parts pack 50 you get the radiators. These, in conjunction with the parts from 49 get the radiators going and will fill those gaping holes in the body sides. There are no real tricks here, other than making sure that the pipes are lined up, and straight. I flowed a bit of my trusty Tenax in the joint before assembly, and then let it all cure up.

The radiators are quite simple to assemble. I did choose to put a wash on mine, to pop the detail a bit. I used Tamiya waterbased, and thinned it to the consistency of milk, then brushed a heavy coat on the radiators with a 1" wide brush I use for filters.

Parts pack 51 gives you beautiful brake caliper parts that have some lovely really fine printing on them. You also get the brake diffusers. The diffusers are a bit fiddly to install, most of this being related to the need to keep from getting glue all over. A touch and flow works well. The calipers co on easily, and only fit one way. keep the adhesive to a minimum, and you'll be good to go.

Parts pack 52 Gives you the last rim, which you use from the spacers you have been hoarding from parts pack 13. Nothing different here from the previous wheels.

Parts set 53 is some interesting stuff! You get the last tire a bag, and some silicon goo that you smear all over the tires, should you choose. I chose to use it. Be VERY careful with the silicon, and handle nothing on the model except the wheels. Silicon interferes with just about every finish known to man, and will mess up the oil your wife uses on the dining room table. I used disposable latex gloves for this step. I smeared it all over the tires, as directed, and then put it all in the provided baggie, and then into the fridge. (it was in the 100's, and it was the only cool place I could think of) I left them in for the 3 days, and pulled them out, unwrapped them, and gave them a good wipe-down. They looked great!

Parts pack 54 is bits for the steering wheel, and the steering rods. The wheel takes a bit of attention as there is definitely a right, and wrong way to get it together. dry fit for best results! The steering rods are then connected to the front suspension units. These are pretty straight forward to get on. Make sure you do not over-tighten them!

Parts bundle 55 consists of more steering bits, only one of which is used on this step. That is the steering boss.

Parts set 56 has the last bits for the steering, including the column. You start by using parts from set 6, the pedal unit. this gets glued to the floor of the cockpit, and then bits from sets 47 and 48. These are the cockpit frame, and 2 switch panels. The frame gets glued to the underbody, and the switches to the same. The second part of this stage is the actual steering unit. This is a quick assembly, which gets screwed and glued to the nose. The last bit is installing the steering column. I reinforced the joint on the guides with a bit of glue flowed in.

Now, the pics!
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experten
#16 Posted : 05 October 2014 06:30:17

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more pics!
experten attached the following image(s):
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Tomick
#17 Posted : 05 October 2014 11:02:27

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Looks like your enjoying this build Cool
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#18 Posted : 05 October 2014 11:17:06

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Mark

This looks a very detailed and involved model.

Your turning out a very nice model indeed.
Happy Modelling

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experten
#19 Posted : 08 October 2014 04:37:02

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Hi Gang,

Part 8 is down the road now too. It starts out with parts pack 57 and the much maligned and deformed seat. (At least here in the States. I hear tell it was not an issue on the eastern side of the pond) To solve this problem, I merely dipped the seat in a pot of near boiling water for about 45 seconds. This softened the plastic enough that it was easily reformed into the correct shape. I used the cockpit tub for this. bada-bing, bada-boom, no more problem seat.

The next step is to cut and apply the seat lifting straps. I found that the provided double sided tape did NOT hold, and resorted to hot glue, which anchored them all down solidly.

Parts set 58 is the actual 6 point harness. This is a little gem, with fine print on the straps, and a beautiful buckle. It is somewhat fiddly to assemble, and care must be taken to get the various straps properly orientated. Again, I used hot glue as opposed to the provided tape.

Set 59 is the exhaust parts, and also include the installation instructions for the 6 point harness onto the drivers seat. The belt is an easy installation, but again, hot glue was my go to adhesive. The instructions have you sort and number the parts for the exhaust. There are 4 rather crudely sculpted pins that are surprisingly effective in locating the exhaust manifold parts to the 4 into 1 junction. This is rather critical in the next step.

Parts set 60 is the other side of the exhaust. You will also need the engine block that you assembled previously. The exhausts fought me every step of the way. I tried using the recommended adhesive, CA glue, and it just simply set too fast for me to fumble my way through getting everything aligned. I broke everything off, scraped it all clean, and used a 5 minute epoxy that is specially formulated for metal. This allowed me time to get everything aligned to my satisfaction, but the resultant hand cramps weren't a lot of fun. And, it does take BOTH hands! (Your mileage may vary of course)

Parts sets 61,62, and 63 are absolutely beautiful bits of body work. The panel in set 61 is the lower engine cowl. This wants for a bit of very careful scraping along the upper and edges, in preparation for joining to another pars, and the floor pan. Pack 62 has the rear fairing fence, and the flip-up. You join the flip-up to the fence. This step needs to be done quite carefully, and in retrospect, I would advise to cant the flip-up TOWARDS the center-line of the vehicle, just a tad. There will be more on this later. Part set 63 has the left lower engine cowl that is scraped the same was as the previous one.

Now, the pics!




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experten
#20 Posted : 08 October 2014 04:57:08

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WooHoo! Page 2!!!

Parts set 10 starts with pack 64. This has the other flip-up, as well as the rear fairing fence. scrape these the same as before, and carefully apply adhesive. Again, I recommend canting the flip-up a tad towards center.

Pack 65 has some absolutely fantastic carbon fiber decals as the provided parts. The work performed on the car, beyond the decals, is that of carefully scraping paint off of the engine/gearbox assembly. I use a small chisel for this. It is about 3/32 wide, and is perfect as it allows great control. You start the decal process by applying 2 to the left upright.

Pack 66 is more beautiful carbon fiber decals. The work performed is that of applying the decals to the suspension arms, both right and left. As you can see below, the results are simply fantastic.

Parts pack 67 contains the monocoque, and side cowls as well as some clear plastic "C" rings. the work is comprised of bonding the side panels to the cockpit tub from pack 49. Great care in placement is called for here. I did a couple of dry fits with the monocoque to make sure I had it down in my head where it all went.There is also a bit of paint scraping on the monocoque as well. BE CAREFUL!

Pack 68 has the parts for the fuel gate, as well as a cockpit fin. Take care here, and watch for those pin locations! The fuel gate looks pretty dang cool when it is done.

Pack 69 has the other fuel gate, cover, and cockpit fin. Carefully scrape the paint off the inside of the monocoque and bond the 2 gates in place, as well as the fins.

Pack 70 has the induction pod cowl support, and fin. These were carefully assembled, and placed aside. My cat then proceeded to get curious, knocked over my bottle of Tenax, and the puddle of course formed directly under the beautiful cowl. CS quite happily and promptly replaced these parts. Stupidity and inattention really does suck!
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