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Official Webber RB7 Build Diary - Issues 73 - 80 Options
Tomick
#1 Posted : 12 May 2014 10:51:06

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Issue 73 - Contains the flywheel wrench.

The final stage of the assembly of the engine is fitting the Flywheel, which is responsible for transferring the rotation of the crankshaft to the transmission.

In this stage you have received the Flywheel Wrench along with information of how it should be used in the next Stage, where we will fit the flywheel onto the engine.
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Tomick
#2 Posted : 20 May 2014 12:26:29

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Issue 74 - Contains the flywheel, pilot shaft and tapered collar.

For this session, you will need the parts supplied with this stage, your GX21 engine, crosswrench and the flywheel wrench supplied with the previous stage. The use of the flywheel wrench is explained on pages 13-14 of Issue 73.

With your engine lying flat on your work surface, slide the tapered collet over the tip of the crankshaft, wider side first, until it rests against the face of the bearing.

With the collet in place, slide the flywheel over the crankshaft, then place the hexagonal end of the pilot shaft over the remaining tip of the crankshaft and tighten by hand.

Hold the flywheel in place using the flywheel wrench, as shown. Then, place the end of the cross wrench marked ‘10’ over the tip of the pilot shaft and turn until it is fully tightened.
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Tomick
#3 Posted : 20 May 2014 12:36:35

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Issue 75 - Contains a pre-assembled clutch, shim, dome screw, clutch bearing and a washer.

Carefully separate the spring and each clutch shoe from the pre-assembled unit.

Place each clutch shoe over the pins on the flywheel so that their flat ends meet. The smooth face of the clutch shoes should rest against the flywheel, and the surface with the ridge around its edge should face upwards.

With the clutch shoes in place, carefully pull the spring removed earlier, around the shoe parts.

Place the shim over the tip of the pilot shaft, then slide the clutch needle roller bearing over the shaft so that it rests snugly against the shim.

This stage is complete. To prevent the bearing from sliding off the shaft, apply a length of masking over the tip of the pilot shaft,(or you can temporarily, add the washer onto the dome screw and insert the screw into the end of the pilot shaft).

Carefully store the remaining dome screw and washer until the next Stage.
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Tomick
#4 Posted : 03 June 2014 12:58:58

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Issue 76 - Contains the clutch bell.

For this session you will need your GX21 engine, along with the 4.5x 10mm washer and 3x6mm dome-headed screw supplied with the previous stage.

Before fitting the clutch bell, you should lubricate the clutch bearing, use a small amount of oil or high melting point grease, applied to the pilot shaft and bearing. Do not be excessive and ensure that the lubricant does not come into contact with the outer surface of the clutch shoes.

Now slide the clutch bell over the pilot shaft and clutch bearing, the bell should cover the bearing and both clutch shoes completely.

Place the 4.5x10mm washer supplied with the previous stage over the tip of the pilot shaft at the front of the clutch bell.

To complete the work of this stage, place the 3x6mm screw also supplied with the previous stage into the hole at the tip of the pilot shaft, and tighten fully with the screwdriver.

Finally, spin the clutch bell a few times to spread the lubricant around the bearing.

Store you engine within a selaed bag until the next stage.

Tomick attached the following image(s):
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Tomick
#5 Posted : 03 June 2014 17:24:28

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Issue 77 - Contains the exhaust muffler (complete with manifold), tailpipe, gasket, cap and dome head screws.

For this assembly session, you will need your RB7 chassis assembly, your GX21 engine and the parts supplied with this stage.

Push the tip of the tailpipe over the outlet pipe of the mufler as far as it will go.

Not that the gasket is shaped to match the manifold’s flange. No take the 3x10mm cap screws, and place one through each of the holes on the manifold, inserted from the rear, the fit the gasket over the ends.

Making sure that the gasket stays in position, fit the manifold to the exhaust port of the engine, then tighten the screws with an alen key to join the parts securely.

This completes the assembly of your RB7’s GX21 engine, which is now ready to be installed on to the chassis of your RB7.

The next step is to prepare the chassis to fit the engine, you will need to remove the gearbox cover and brake cam. Be sure to note where each screw came from.

Mounting the engine

You are now ready to mount the GX21 engine and silencer assembly onto the chassis of your RB7. Its a good idea to apply a thread lock fluid onto the screw threads which secure the engine onto the chassis plate, which will prevent vibrations working them loose.

Hold the engine above the chassis with the muffler tailpipe facing the rear. Lower it towards the surface of the chassis, with the tailpipe feeding into the rear bulkhead, beneath the rear driveshaft. When about 2cm of the tailpipe is still visible, lower the engine onto the chassis, tucking the cutaway left side of the silencer underneath the rear driveshaft, then set down the engine so that the two sockets on the underside of the crankcase line up with the holes on the engine mount in the chassis.

Holding the engine in place, turn the chassis over, and insert four 3x8mm domeheaded screws supplied with this stage into the four holes in the engine mount plate, then loosly tighten each one so that the engine is still able to slide a little from side to side.

Turn the chassis over again and check the positions of the spur and pinion gears. Adjust the engine’s position so that the two gears are sitting parallel to each other, with their teeth aligned and ready to be engaged. Move the gears together as making sure that the engine’s pinion gear remains perfectly parallel to the spur gear.
Engage the teeth of the gears and feed a strip of card in between them (the card from your RB7’s packaging is suitable for this. Carefully rotate the large gear so that the the two gears pinch the card strip between them. Check again that the gears are perfectly parallel to each other.

Holding the engine in place, turn the chassis onto its side and tighten the four dome-headed screws until they just begin to bite, but don't tighten them fully at this stage. Turn the chassis back on to its wheels and check that the gears are still correctly aligned. If not, repeat the process until they are. When the gears are aligned, pull the cardboard strip out from between them.

The spur gear and the pinion gear should be neatly interlocked. Check that the two gears can move without binding or too much resistance and that the teeth engage smoothly. If the gears are not aligned, or the teeth don’t engage properly, repeat the alignment process.

When you are sure that the gears are meshing correctly, carefully turn the chassis onto ist side, and fully tighten the dome-headed screws so that the engine will not move on its mount.

To ensure that the gears will operate smoothly, apply a moderate amount of grease (supplied with Stages 38 and 63) to the gear teeth. Then rotate the gears a few times to spread the grease evenly.

Now refit the brake cam and gear cover

Tomick attached the following image(s):
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Tomick
#6 Posted : 18 June 2014 11:33:40

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Issue 78 - Contains the Webber air filter helmet, decal sheet and air filter parts.

Remove and discard the central cylindrical section of the air filter element.

Note: It‘s a good idea to work a few drops of air filter oil into the filter element at this stage, as it will make debris filtration more effective. Use your fingers to gently squeeze the foam to disperse the oil throughout the element.

Then push the element over the star-shaped projection on the air filter base until it butts up against the circular rim.

Fit the air filter cap onto the end of the star-shaped projection, aligning the holes, then with the filter assembly facing upwards, set the 2.6x6mm dome-headed screw into the central hole in the cap, and tighten the screw.

Lay the left side of the helmet air filter cover on your work surface, as shown. Then lower the air filter assembly onto it so that the ridge around the edge of the filter base sits neatly into the groove at the rear of the helmet cover. Then join the right side of the air filter cover to the left. Fit the groove at its rear over the ridge on the air filter base, and its locating pins into the corresponding holes.

Turn the assembly on its side, and place the 2x6mm dome-headed screw into the arrowed hole on the underside of the helmet cover. Tighten the screw, making sure not to overtighten it.

Fit the narrower end of the air filter pipe over the base of the air filter at the rar of the helmet.

Decal sheet:

In this instance the decals are self-adhesive vinyl stickers which are harder wearing for the rigours of racing your model.

Carefully cut-out and apply each decal in number order onto the helmet.

Fitting the air filter onto the engine:

Fit the wider end of the air filter pipe over the open intake port of the carburettor on the engine, pushing it as far as it will go, so that its mouth rests against the metal of the carburettor.

Carefully store the remaining decals, which will be applied to the inside rim of the tyres at Stage 80.
Tomick attached the following image(s):
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Tomick
#7 Posted : 18 June 2014 11:51:17

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Issue 79 - Contains the RC switch harness.

Remove the two screws at the top of the switch, then take off the ON/OFF cover plate.

Put the switch onto the right chassis plate, with the cable with the black plug leading towards the rear of the chassis and the ON/OFF slider facing down. Run the cable as shown, between the right-hand side of the gearbox cover and the front throttle servo mount The switch’s slider fits into the rectangular cutout in the chassis plate. Ensure that the 'OFF' side of the switch is facing towards the front of the model.

Place the cover plate over the switch’s slider on the bottom of the chassis plate, as shown. Note: the
OFF side must be sitting in its position towards the front of the model. Then to complete this assembly stage, place the two screws that you removed earlier into the holes in the cover plate, and tighten them into the switch to secure the switch and on/off cover in place.


Tomick attached the following image(s):
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Tomick
#8 Posted : 19 June 2014 16:48:53

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Issue 80 - Contains the RC battery box and the Antenna tube.

Feed the cable coming from the front of the switch by the red connector through to the left side of the chassis, underneath the arc of the centre upper plate.

Then join the red connector of the Switch wire into the corresponding one at the end of the battery box‘s cable, (it will only fit in one way). When the cables are connected, place the battery box on the left side of the chassis.

Retrieve the decal sheet supplied with Stage 78. You may prefer to skip this phase if you are intending to run your model, as active use is likely to cause these stickers to peel away from the tyres.

If you have chosen to apply the decals onto the tyres, remove each of the wheels, then cut-out and apply a 'P Zero' and 'Pirelli' decal in the orientation and position shown onto the inside of each tyre rim, then refit the wheels.

The antenna tube will be fitted at a later stage, so keep this safely until then.
Tomick attached the following image(s):
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