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RB7 paint colours Options
GYROLASER
#41 Posted : 07 February 2016 15:49:15

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I don't profess to be an expert and I am sure Mr T will correct me if wrong but I needed 2 x TS-53 and just managed with 1 x TS-65.

The reason for this being I put 2 coats of TS-53 on due to the first being a light covering and then a top coat. If you put 1 heavy coat on it will run or sag.

Then 1 coat of TS-65 on top of the TS-53 top coat while it was still wet.

Only use TS-65 on the blue parts NOT the Yellow.

Before you primer any of the parts wash them in detergent and let them air dry to remove grease and oils from manufacturing and fingers.

I ended up putting on 2 light coats of primer until the blue colour had been covered.

leave the primed parts 24 hours then before applying the colours.

I found that holding the can 8" - 10" from the parts a good distance for spraying and I also made sure the paint and parts were both at room temperature.

I left the body and parts for a week then before applying the water slide decals and then applied 2 coats of Humbrol Acrylic Gloss Varnish to seal in the decals and so far there has been no crazing or burning on the decals.

Hope this helps
pwormald
#42 Posted : 08 February 2016 09:47:42

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Many thanks for info. will definitely get a second can of Ts53. I have prepared parts as you say and Ts spray seems to work well. Here's looking forward go a good final result. When spraying pearl wet on wet how long did you wait ? think I saw 15 minutes some where? Cheers Phil.
GYROLASER
#43 Posted : 08 February 2016 20:16:05

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straight away so the pearl blends in with the blue while it is still wet
pwormald
#44 Posted : 09 February 2016 09:26:24

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Thanks a lot. All your info has been really helpful & reassuring.
pwormald
#45 Posted : 26 February 2016 11:45:57

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Hi again Gyrolaser, re display body, still not started spraying blue/pearl yet as waiting for warmer weather (I need to paint in greenhouse as no where else to do it!) I note you said you put a light coat of blue first and then a second coat of blue to prevent paint running.) How long did you leave first coat of blue before applying second please? obviously pearl sprayed on second coat of blue whilst last blue still wet.

Re lexan running body, is it the same technique ie light coat of pearl first and then straight away a light coat of blue and again how long before next coat of blue. Just want to be as sure as I can of process as trying to rectify a poor job will be difficult!

I'm sure I read somewhere that it's not so easy layer paint metallic paints.
Thanks Phil.
Aquanin
#46 Posted : 26 February 2016 15:58:28

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Tomick linked to a great page on Tamiya's website for info on how to use their paints here:

http://www.tamiyausa.com...pe=article#.VtBnN5wrKUk

Some good info there. The thin coats of TS paints dry really quickly and I probably rushed it faster than many would but mine turned out great. As for the PS paints. They dry very fast, I only waited maybe 15 mins between coats and it worked fine, but some may say that is too quick.

Good luck and remember, if you mess up and get a run or something, you can always sand it out and do it again. Most painting errors are not permanent, they are pretty easy to fix.
Tomick
#47 Posted : 26 February 2016 16:16:47

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Most important is to remember that the clear body is painted from the inside and not to remove the clear outer protective film until the painting is complete.
eiseman
#48 Posted : 07 March 2016 04:28:05

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Aquanin wrote:
Tomick linked to a great page on Tamiya's website for info on how to use their paints here:
(SNIP for brevity)
always sand it out and do it again. Most painting errors are not permanent, they are pretty easy to fix.


I culled all the pertinent info from this thread for when I get to this stage, good stuff, no, imperative stuff to know ahead of time. I'm thinking I need to get a clear piece of lexan of similar make to practice on a month or so before tackling this.

Are there any particular threads of note that would be good to read other than the stickies? Even if outside of this RB7 forum?
Tomick
#49 Posted : 07 March 2016 09:32:31

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There are numerous painting lexan bodyshell links on YouTube and Google
eiseman
#50 Posted : 08 March 2016 11:21:01

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Tomick wrote:
There are numerous painting lexan bodyshell links on YouTube and Google



Copy that, will check it out!
pwormald
#51 Posted : 25 March 2016 20:29:49

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Just some feedback on finally having completed painting of the display body and associated bits. TS 53 is spot on colour against supplied front and rear wings. Thanks to everybody for their input over the past months.BigGrin
Ian weaver
#52 Posted : 09 May 2016 21:31:49

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Just a little confused on this post?

Are you talking about TS65? If I'm applying TS13 over decals, how do I get the decals on if I have apply within 15 mins of the colour coat? Wet on wet.

Should I be applying primer first and wait 24 hours,
Then a thin coat of TS53 and wait 24 hours,
Apply a second coat of TS53 and then a coat of TS65 (not TS13) within 15 minuits?

Fit wet slide decals weeks later and then finish off with TS13. But better to use X22 or mr hobby b501.

[/quote]

There are many reports that applying Tamiya TS-13 over decals can 'burn’ decals or create what looks like crazing or cracking in the paint surface, days, weeks or months down the line. Though many have used it without problem.

TS-13 dries at a different rate than their colour sprays and is what causes the problem and also how heavy it is appplied, and should be applied within 15 mins of the colour coat (wet on wet) or after 30 days. A safer alternative would be to airbrush Tamiya X-22 clear as it is aqueous based.

We also have to consider that we have 3 different tyes of decal on the RB7, pre-printed, waterslide and self-adhesive vinyl, where a type of clear may attack one decal but not the other. Therefore an 'aqueous' clear coat is probably the safest route, such as Mr Hobby B501 which is what we recomended for the MP4/23.

As with all clears, you should always test, as the aerosol solvent can destroy decals or damage paint.

Clear coating is something that the novice needs to practice before tackling a pride and joy.

You may find this Tamiya paint info link useful..

http://www.tamiyausa.com...y_id=8&type=article


Note that a lexan bodyshell reamer and lexan curved scissors will be required to complete the racing body.


[/quote]
Tomick
#53 Posted : 09 May 2016 21:54:11

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Talking about applying pearl over colour. Once you have applied the colour then the pearl, you should set the display body aside at least overnight before applying the decals and when full dry, then a clear coat, but be mindful that the Tamiya clear aerosol can fry decals, a better alternative is to use an aqueous clear such as Mr Hobby B501 or airbrush Tamiya X22.

Info about this is noted in the official build
http://forum.model-space...spx?g=posts&t=13763
Chani1312
#54 Posted : 10 June 2016 10:36:21

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Hi is there a video of someone spraying the racing body. I have no clue where to start. Any guidance will help. I am a visual learner
Tomick
#55 Posted : 10 June 2016 12:20:26

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Not as such, only the body prep video
https://www.youtube.com/...JsZF6dhpGD&index=54

The instructions gives advice on paint the racing body, also there are lot's of "how to paint lexan bodyshell" video's on YouTube


Chani1312
#56 Posted : 11 June 2016 10:25:50

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Ok thanks for that. I didnt buy the white backing spray because i read a post the black backing will be fine for the camel yellow parts also?

And im sorry if i come across as stupid but the backing. Is that done after the yellow is applied or before?
Tomick
#57 Posted : 11 June 2016 10:39:28

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A backing spray is the final spray to be applied after all of the colours have been applied.
Black did not pose a problem backed over the yellow for us., if you are concerned about the black toning down the yellow, you could always use a white backing spray over the yellow and back the rest with black.
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