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Official HMS Victory Build Diary Issue 26 - 30 Options
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#1 Posted : 21 September 2010 11:06:14
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Mark Adams
Tomick
#2 Posted : 24 September 2010 14:27:11

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Issue 26 continues the planking up to layer 12, remember to plank evenly on both sides of the model, repeating each step on the opposite side before moving onto the next one.
Note that as you get higher up the hull, you can expect the position of the planking on your model to vary slightly from that shown, this is due to numerous small variations that gradually add up, (these variations may include slightly different fairing of the hull, differing tapers on the planks etc), you should try each plank on your own model and adjust it to fit as necessary.

For the Cutaway, layers 10, 11 and 12 complete the top of the Cutaway section, from here onwards the planking will be identical to the opposite side of the hull. The first plank of layer 11 fits between frame 16 and 23, mark it to length and also mark the positions of the edges of the Cutaway, then measure the distance from the middle deck to the bottom of the plank (make sure the measurement is vertical height rather than being at the angle of the hull side), the height of the Cutaway needs to be 23mm, which means you have to remove the excess from the plank, thus cutting a horizontal area between the two marks in the plank.
You should also mark and drill pilot holes for the pins which will secure this plank at frames 17 and 20, which is to prevent it splitting the narrow part of the plank.
Glue and pin the plank into position and hold a spare plank above to make sure the Cutaway plank remains straight when you insert the pins, then complete layer 12 as normal.

Planking - Fit the first plank of layer 10 between frames 17 and 24, as before chamfer its edge though less chamfering will be needed as the hull is not so curved at this point,lightly sand the bottom edge of the plank which will give you a closer joint between the planks.
The Stern planks should not need tapering, just check that they run parallel to the line of the deck, and use the template (from page 12 of issue 24) to check the overhang at the stern.
When you try the bow plank in position, it will probably leave a gap in the middle, however, the size and position of the gap will depend on how much you have tapered the bow planks, which will vary from model to model. Make a mark at the widest parts of the gap and also where it starts to open up, the diagram at step 4 shows how to trim the plank to make the bow end narrower than the rest of the plank by the width of the gap, then form a short taper over the length of the gap, trim the plank gradually and keep trying it against the hull, as mentioned each model will be different, you will need to adapt this info to your model.

The first plank of layer 11 sits at frames 16-23, and the aft plank is located at frame 23 to the stern overhang, not forgetting to use the template.

The instructions for layers 11 and 12 need to be closely followed, you should read through steps 6 to 8b a few times to familiarise yourself with the route being taken.

For the bow plank of layer 11 you need to closely follow step 7a or step 7b which are the two options shown for this plank, which is dependant on how high up the formers your planking is at, simply follow the magazine steps for your chosen route, my chosen route was 7a.

Continue the planking with layer 12, fixing the first plank betwen frames 15 and 22, add the stern plank and check the overhang with the template, the bow plank is located depending on which route was taken ( with the bow plank at layer 11 (step 7a or 7b), my route was 7a which means the bow plank is stopped at the forward bulkhead and overhangs the forward bulkhead a few mm (as shown in step 8a), step 8b is for those who followed step 7b.



Issue 27 contains planking/pins and canon support strips, and the instructions for the cutting of the middle deck gun ports and locating the canon support blocks.

Issue 28 contains planking/pins, and has instructions for the cutting of the two entry ports and continues the planking upwards.
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Tomick attached the following image(s):
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Tomick
#3 Posted : 01 October 2010 10:47:32

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Issue 27 has the addition of cannon supports and the cutting of the gun ports for the middle deck.

There are 15 middle deck gun ports on each side of the hull, the ports are positioned between the hull frames - except in the case of the ports closest to the bow, which are in line with some of the bow formers.

For the Cutaway - Repeat the main steps to cut the gun ports on the opposite (port) side of the hull, simply ignore the gun ports that would otherwise fall in the area which you have left unplanked.

Marking of the middle deck gun ports - Use a strip of wood to draw a line 4.5mm aft of the frames for all frames except at the stern and bow.
At the stern, draw guidelines against the sides of frames 27 and 28.
At the bow, draw lines against the sides of frmaes 12 and 13, then redraw the line nearest frame 15, moving it 2mm forward of the line you first marked.

Mark the height of the gun ports, which are 31mm above the bottom edge of the lowest plank, repeat at every port position, including the entry port.

Using the 12mm square jig you made for marking the lower gun ports (issue 23, page 12), or a ruler, mark the gun ports according to the magazine diagram, not forgetting to mark the port against the forward line at frame 15.

Extend the vertical lines both up and down to mark out the entry port between frame 21 and 22, you can leave marking the top and bottom of the entry port until later.

The gun port between frames 27 and 28 should be flush with the edge of frame 28.

The gun port by frame 25 should be drawn approximately 1mm closer towards the bow than the marked line.

There is one further port to be marked at the bow, draw a line 31mm forward of the front gun port next to frame 12, then mark its height as you did with the previous ports (31mm above the botom edge of the lowest plank), then mark out the 12mm square.

Cannon supports - Take both of the 6x4mm wooden strips, paint one side black, taking care not to get paint on the edges. When dry mark out and cut 24 pieces 20mm long, and 4 pieces 15mm long, a razer saw and mitre box is best used for this process.

Using PVA adhesive, glue the cannon suports on top of the middle deck support beams, and position with the black-painted side facing the planking, line the supports up behind the gun ports that you have marked, to ensure that they will provide good support for the cannons.
Note that the shorter blocks (15mm) are for the bow and stern positions, allow to dry overnight before continung.

Cutting of the gun ports - Centre mark each gun port, and then using a 2mm bit, drill a hole through the centre and into the the cannon support. Holding a ruler against the underside of the deck will help you keep the drill upright and parallel to the deck.

The cut-out and finish each the gun port as you did before, but at this stage DO NOT cut out the two entry ports which will be covered in the next issue.



Issue 28 contains planking/pins, and has instructions for the cutting of the two entry ports and continues the planking upwards.

Issue 29 contains planking/pins, and has instructions for the cutting of the gun ports for the upper deck.
Tomick attached the following image(s):
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Tomick
#4 Posted : 07 October 2010 10:37:15

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Issue 28 has instruction for the cutting of both Entry Ports, and continues the planking upwards.

Cutting of the Entry Ports - Carefully cut away the 12mm square part of both entry ports, and extend the hole down until it is flush with the deck.
Measure 23mm from the bottom of the entry port, in order to mark the top of the entry port with a pencil line, then remove the wood from the top of the entry port and finish off the edges to the marked lines.

Continuing the planking - Place the first plank of layer 13 between frames 17 and 24, cut it to length and chamfer the edge and glue/pin into place. Fit the stern plank and use your template as a guide to cutting the overhang. Fit the forward plank, cutting it so that it overhangs the forward bulkhead by a few mm.
Note that if your model required layer 12 to curve all the way round to complete the bow planking, this may be the first layer that stops at this point.

The planks at the bow need to be tapered towards it so that the top plank will end up roughly parallel to the top of the frames. The amount of tapering will vary from one model to another, don't worry if the tops of the ribs are not completely level, as they will be trimmed later on. The chamfer of the planks at the bow area needs careful attention, the shape changes along the length of each plank as it twists to follow the line of the frames.

Fit the next layer of planks between frames 16 and 23, trim the bow and stern planks as previously.

Continue the next layer, fitting the first plank between frames 15 and 22, and the bow and stern planks as previously. By this stage you will be nearing the tops of the frames in the area of the quarterdeck, near the centre of the hull.

Before continuing with the next layer, mark the finished height of the planking. The deck and deck beams will be 3.5mm thick, so mark a line on frames numbers 17 to 21 4mm above the bracket that supports the deck, (the extra 0.5mm is a sanding allowance). Take two scraps of plank and use these as a gauge to mark the required height upon these frames, some of the frames may just be the right height, do not cut any frames down now; this will be done at a later stage.

Install the final layer of planks, fixing the first plank between frames 17 and 24, don't worry if this plank is not quite level with the lines you marked earlier, any discrepancy will be dealt with later.



Issue 29 contains planking/pins, and has instruction for the cutting of the gun ports for the upper deck.

Issue 30 contains an Anchor and 12-pounder Gun, and has assembly instructions for both.
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Tomick
#5 Posted : 14 October 2010 17:45:49

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Issue 29 has instruction for the cutting of the gun ports of the upper deck.

The upper deck has 15 gun ports on each side of the hull, and are positioned between the hull frames and most of them directly above those in the lower gun deck.
Unlike the lower gun deck, the gun ports on the upper deck are unaffected by whether or not you have decided to include a cutaway in your hull, however take care in cutting the ports above the cutaway, make light cuts to avoid breaking the planks.

Marking and cutting of the upper deck gun ports - Mark the forward line of the frames on the planking, for the gun port nearest the stern, draw the line of the aft edge of the lower gun port and then draw a parallel line 2mm forward of that point, for the next gun port, draw a parallel line 1mm forward of the frame.

You will need to mark the height or each gun port as before, the height distance this time is 57mm from the bottom edge of the lowest plank.
Use the 12mm square gun port jig you made previously to draw the outline of all 15 gun ports on each side of the hull, noting that the two gun ports nearest the stern are slightly forward of the lower ports, along the extra lines drawn. The gun port nearest the bow is exactly above the lower gun port, midway between the frames.

It's always a good idea to double check the positions are correct before starting to cut the holes, you do not need to drill the centre of each gun port as there is no cannon support behind, simply cut and trim each gun port to size.



Issue 30 contains an Anchor and 12-pounder Gun, and has assembly instructions for both.

Issue 31 contains more planking/pins, and has instruction for the upper planking which covers Victory's Poop, Quarterdeck, Waist and Forcastle, and adjusting the height of the planking on the Bulwarks.
File Attachment(s):
V29.JPG (931kb) downloaded 308 time(s).
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Tomick
#6 Posted : 20 October 2010 16:13:45

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Issue 30 contains an Anchor and 12-pounder Gun, and assembly instructions for both.

Construct the Anchor and Cannon as per the previous assembly for both, not forgetting to finish the cannon in your chosen guise, be it painted or natural.

Issue 31 contains more planking/pins, and has instruction for the upper planking of the hull which covers Victory's Poop, Quarterdeck, Waist and Forcastle, and how to adjust the height of the planking on the Bulwarks.

Issue 32 contains planks/pins, and has instruction for the start of the planking of the lower hull, starting at the Bow.
Tomick attached the following image(s):
V30.JPG
V30-1.JPG
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