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Official Suzuki Hayabusa build diary - Stages 21 - 27 Options
Tomick
#1 Posted : 15 October 2014 16:38:49
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Pack 07 contains Stages 21 - 24

Stage 21 - Contains the steering damper case & shaft, front fork left & right reflector mounts & reflectors, double sided adhesive discs, screws and nuts.

Fitting the front fork reflectors

The front fork side reflectors are an optional extra that you can, if you wish, fit to the front forks to add to the authenticity of your model. These reflectors were fitted to meet legislation regarding imported motorcycles.
If you choose to fit them, you will find that when depressing the front forks, the reflector mounts come into contact with the upper part of the forks.
This problem will be rectified in Pack 13 (with Stage 41 parts), with the supply of reflector spacers to be fitted behind the reflector mounts.

Prepare the front fork assembly from Stage 9. Use the cross wrench to loosen and remove the 2.3x8mm hex screws from either side of the front forks.
Remove the surround from the adhesive disc sheet, leaving the two adhesive discs intact.

Remove the backing from one of the adhesive discs and place it onto the back (silver side) of one of the reflectors. Repeat this for the second reflector.
Then remove the backing from a disc and place the reflector into the recessed circle of one of the reflector mounts. Fit the other reflector onto the other mount in the same way.

Identify which reflector mount is left and right, then place the hole in the left reflector mount over the hole in the left fork from which the 2.3x8mm screw was removed earlier.
Align the area around the hole of the reflector mount with the recessed section of the bracket at the end of the fork. Align the holes and insert the 2.3x8mm screw.

Turn the front forks over and fix the right reflector mount in place.

Fitting the steering damper

Orientate the damper head as sgown and insert one of the 2x11mm long screws into the hole at the end of the damper shaft, then Insert the end of the screw into the hole projecting forward on the bottom yoke. Then place an M2 nut over the end of he screw.
Hold the nut against the end of the screw, then tighten the screw into the nut with a screwdriver. Move the damper shaft back and forth, to confirm that the screw is secure and to make sure that the shaft isn't too loose.
If the damper shaft is loose, apply a tiny amount of multi-purpose adhesive to the end of the screw, by the nut, to hold them together.

Place the end of the damper case with the projecting hole over the end of the damper shaft. Check that the damper case moves smoothly along the shaft.

Wrap some masking tape around the steering damper shaft, to temporarily hold the case in place.

This stage is now complete. Store the left over screws in a labelled plastic bag.
Tomick attached the following image(s):
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Tomick
#2 Posted : 15 October 2014 16:41:43
Rank: Administration
Build-Diary Medal: Build-Diary Medal of HonourPublisher Medal: Article published MedalActive Service Medal: 500 post active service MedalPurple Medal: Super active service medal for 1000 postsRed Medal: Red MedalTurquoise Medal: Turquoise Medal for model making know-how contribution
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Stage 22 - Contains the rear wheel, double-sided tape pads and balance weights.

Fit one or more wheel balances to the wheel using the same method as those fitted onto the front wheel.

Usually, up to three blances would be fitted on the rear wheel of the real bike. You can fix a balance weight to any point on the inside of the wheel, but generally at least one would be placed opposite the valve.

Store the leftover balance weights safely in a labelled plastic bag.


Tomick attached the following image(s):
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Tomick
#3 Posted : 15 October 2014 16:43:12
Rank: Administration
Build-Diary Medal: Build-Diary Medal of HonourPublisher Medal: Article published MedalActive Service Medal: 500 post active service MedalPurple Medal: Super active service medal for 1000 postsRed Medal: Red MedalTurquoise Medal: Turquoise Medal for model making know-how contribution
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Stage 23 - Contains the rear tyre.

Ensure that the tyre tread is correctly oriented for the rotation of the wheel, then fit the tyre onto the wheel as before.
Tomick attached the following image(s):
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Tomick
#4 Posted : 15 October 2014 16:47:58
Rank: Administration
Build-Diary Medal: Build-Diary Medal of HonourPublisher Medal: Article published MedalActive Service Medal: 500 post active service MedalPurple Medal: Super active service medal for 1000 postsRed Medal: Red MedalTurquoise Medal: Turquoise Medal for model making know-how contribution
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Stage 24 - Contains the rear chain sprocket and brake disc.

Sprocket preparation

The diecast metal sprocket has a protective film that needs to be removed before proceeding.
Use an old toothbrush and a small container with water and detergent in it, or use a degreasing agent (such as isopropyl alchohol) to clean the sprocket.

If you want your sprocket to look like a new you can polish its entirity to a sheen using metal polish, or you can leave it as it is, or if you want a used look, you can opt to corrode the sprocket as set out in the instructions.

I opted just to lightly polish its toothed edge and bolt heads.

When you have finished creating your preferred look to the sprocket, it’s a good idea to coat it with clear metal primer, which will preserve and protect its finish. (Tamiya 870615 clear metal primer, or Mr Hobby B-504 Mr Metal clear primer).

Fitting the brake disc

To fit the brake disc to the rear wheel, line up the three pins on the inside of the disc with the three holes on the right-hand side of the hub, into which they will fit. Place the three pins into the corresponding holes, and push the disc into place.

Turn the wheel around and locate the small projection on the hub and the small cutout in the ridge of the sprocket.
Place the sprocket onto the side of the wheel, keeping the cutout and the projection aligned. Try turning the sprocket from side to side. If it doesn't move, it is correctly seated. If it does, remove it and check that the cutout on the sprocket fits properly over the projection on the hub. If not, you may need to widen the cutout or reduce the size of the projection. Do this very carefully, using a suitable small file.

This stage is now complete. Keep the rear wheel in a plastic bag, as the sprocket is not yet fully secured.
Tomick attached the following image(s):
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Tomick
#5 Posted : 27 October 2014 10:38:55
Rank: Administration
Build-Diary Medal: Build-Diary Medal of HonourPublisher Medal: Article published MedalActive Service Medal: 500 post active service MedalPurple Medal: Super active service medal for 1000 postsRed Medal: Red MedalTurquoise Medal: Turquoise Medal for model making know-how contribution
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Pack 08 contains Stages 25 - 27

Stage 25- Contains the rear swingarm, rear axle and swingarm decal.

Remove the pre-fitted nut from the end of the rear axle.

Hold the swingarm the correct way up, and test-fit the axle by inserting the end from which you removed the nut into the indicated side of the swing arm. The flats at the end of the axle match the straight-cut sides of the hole, so to fit the axle into the hole you will need to turn it so that these match up.

When you have made this test-fit, remove the axle and screw the nut back onto the axle end.

Place the self adhesive decal on to the indicated side of swing arm in the position shown.

Carefully store the axle in a labelled bag.



Tomick attached the following image(s):
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Tomick
#6 Posted : 27 October 2014 10:42:43
Rank: Administration
Build-Diary Medal: Build-Diary Medal of HonourPublisher Medal: Article published MedalActive Service Medal: 500 post active service MedalPurple Medal: Super active service medal for 1000 postsRed Medal: Red MedalTurquoise Medal: Turquoise Medal for model making know-how contribution
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Stage 26 - Contains the swingarm subframe, splash guard and screws.

Fit the splash guard tabs onto the two pins in the subframe and push the mudguard onto the subframe to ensure that the pins are fully seated in the holes.

Take the subframe and the swingarm from the previous stage, align the projections and fit them together as shown, ensuring that the pins on the swingarm are fitted into to the holes in the subframe arms.

Once you have aligned all of the points, carefully push the subframe onto the swingarm.

While holding the parts together, insert a 2.3x6mm screw into one of the four holes on the underside of the swingarm and tighten it, then insert and tighten a 2.3.6mm screw into the three remaining holes.

The swingarm is now complete. Make sure to save the remaining 2.3x6mm screws for later use (you will need one in the next stage), in a labelled bag.

Tomick attached the following image(s):
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Tomick
#7 Posted : 27 October 2014 10:47:10
Rank: Administration
Build-Diary Medal: Build-Diary Medal of HonourPublisher Medal: Article published MedalActive Service Medal: 500 post active service MedalPurple Medal: Super active service medal for 1000 postsRed Medal: Red MedalTurquoise Medal: Turquoise Medal for model making know-how contribution
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Joined: 08/03/2010
Posts: 19,138
Points: 53,391
Location: UK
Stage 27 - Contains the left crankcase half.

Check the different aspects of the left half of the crankcase to locate the circled screw holes. Each of these five holes will require a screw thread created within.

To tap the screw holes in the crankcase, use a spare 2.3x6mm screw left over from the previous stage. Or as an alternative, you can opt to use a 2.3mm thread tap in conjunction with a tap wrench (not included), instructions are provided on how to use a tap.

Insert the 2.3x 6mm screw into one of the identified holes in the crankcase, circled in Step 1. Turn it into the hole until about two-thirds of the threaded portion is inside it, then slowly unscrew it and remove it from the hole.
Then carefully blow away any metal swarf that has been produced by the thread tapping, so that the hole is clean.

Now repeat the screw thread tapping process to thread the remaining four holes identified in Step 1.

This stage is now complete, carefully store the crankcase for later use.
Tomick attached the following image(s):
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