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Official HMS Sovereign of the Seas Build Diary - Issues 116 - 122 Options
Tomick
#1 Posted : 17 November 2014 09:53:13

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Issue 116 - Contains diecast decorations for the right-hand side of the hull, 4mm deadeyes, birch strips, and threads.

Hull decorations

Remove any burrs from the PD25, PD26, PD63, PD21, PD48 and PD49 decorations for the right-hand side of the hull that came with this issue. Coat them with metal primer then paint them gold.

Use a fine brush to retouch decorations PD25 and PD63 with white and black. Then retouch pieces PD21, PD48 and PD49 with white, red and black paint as shown in the instructions.

Take the three PD26 peices and glue them onto the on the right-hand side at the quarterdeck in the positions shown.

Take the twoe PD25 and PD63 piece and glue them in place on the right-hand side of the hull in the positions shown.

Fix decorations PD48 and PD49 in the positions shown, then glue a PD21 piece over thePD49 & PD49 peices.
The third PD21 decoration should be fixed in the middle of the right-hand side of the hull over the piece PD34 mounted in Issue 106.

Retouch decoration PD25, fixed in a previous session on the right-hand side of the hull, with white and black paint.

Retouch with red, yellow, white, blue and black paint the decorations PD21 and PD28 fixed in one of your previous assembly sessions. The two pieces are positioned among PD48, PD49 and PD21 that you fixed earlier in this stage.

Mainmast & Mizzen shrouds

Use the 5mm deadeyes that you painted in Issue 97, and retrieve the 0.5mm brown thread and the 0.15mm thread provided with recent issues.
Then follow the steps provided in Issue 115 when you installed the foremast shrouds.

In a similar way, mount the mizzen shrouds on both sides of the model.

Shroud Sheer poles

Take the three 1.5x1.5x300mm strips attached with this issue, and smooth them with fine-grained sandpaper. Then apply a coat of sapele-coloured paint on them.

Cut six lengths from the strips: two 62mm (#191), two 85mm (#192) and two 37mm (#193). Retouch the cut ends with sapele paint. These pieces of wood are to make the sheer poles of the shrouds.

Glue pieces #191 on the fore shrouds of the left- and right-hand sides of the model. The pieces should be parallel to the wales and be 68mm from them.

Glue pieces #192 on the main shrouds of both sides of the modell. Take care that the pieces are parallel to, and 50mm from, the wales.

Similarly, glue pieces #193 on the mizzen shrouds of both sides of your model. Also, check that the pieces are parallel to the wales and 50mm from them.

Use the 0.15mm thread to bind the sheer poles on the shrouds by making a simple granny knot in front and behind the brown 0.5mm thread on each shroud. (The making of the knot is shown in Step 23).

Upper shroud poles

Prepare six lengths cut from the sapele painted 1.5x1.5x300mm strips: two 19mm (194), two 20mm (195), and two 1mm (196). Retouch the cut ends. These pieces are used for making the upper poles on the shrouds.

Not that the white line arrow length is Step 18 is incorrect. Its length should only be as far as the lower sheer pole and not beyond as shown.
Glue pieces #194 on the shrouds of the foremast of the left- and right-hand sides of the model. The pieces should be placed 150mm above the wale and parallel to it. Also check that on the eyes the shrouds are equidistant from one another. Finally, make a simple granny knot on each shroud with the 0.15mm thread.

Glue pieces #195 on the shrouds of the mainmast on both sides of the model. Take care that the pieces are parallel to the sheer poles and 190mm from them. Then, make a simple granny knot on each shroud with the 0.15mm thread.

Similarly, glue pieces 196 on the mizzen shrouds on both sides of your model, checking that they are parallel to the sheer poles and 125mm from them. Make a simple granny knot on each shroud.

Ratlines

Two methods are shown in the instructions for creating the shroud Ratlines. Step 21 contains step by step diagrams of how to tie them.
If you wish to avoid the time consuming and fiddly process of tying ratlines, the quickest way is to use the needle and thread method, thread the ratlines across the shrouds and tie or glue each end to the shroud lines.

Use the 0.15mm thread to make the ratlines on both sides of your model. The ratlines must be parallel to one another and 5mm apart.

Install ratlines onto the shrouds on both side of the model for all three masts.

Catharping ropes

The catharping ropes are the ropes that connect the right-hand shroud with the left-hand one. This binding is fastened to the poles at the top of the shrouds.

Take a piece of 0.5mm brown thread and wind the two ends around the back of the staffs of the shrouds of the foremast. Then, fix the two ends with a binding of 0.15mm thread.

During the catharping, put tension on the brown thread so that the rigging of the left-hand side and the right are parallel to one another.

Repeat the catharping operation on the main and mizzen shrouds.


The unused 4mm deadeyes are be used in Issue 117, where the futtock shrouds will be installed onto all three masts, Keep these deadeyes safe in a labelled bag until then.

Future issues:

Issue 117 - Contains brown thread, 3.5mm deadeyes and photo-etched brass decorations for the left-hand side hull.

Issue 118 - Contains a bamboo rod, dummy gun barrels, 3.5mm deadeyes, and brass decoration parts for the right-hand side of the hull.

Issue 119 - Contains assorted threads and dummy gun barrels.

Issue 120 - Contains birch wooden strips, diecast frames of the left-hand side door and left side decorations.

Issue 121 - Contains diecast frames of the right-hand side door and right-hand side bow decorations.

Issue 122 - Contains 0.25mm thread, deadeyes for the parrels and diecast decorations for the cat davits.
Tomick attached the following image(s):
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Tomick
#2 Posted : 21 November 2014 12:43:51

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Joined: 24/08/2009
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Issue 117 - Contains brown thread, 3.5mm deadeyes and photo-etched brass decorations for the left-hand side hull.

Decorations

Take the brass fret that came with this issue. Cut out decorations B1, B2, B3, B4, B5, Z1, Z2, Z3, Z5 and Z6, but leave Z4 in place.

The hull diagram shows the locations on the left-hand side of the hull where these decorations should be fixed. Pieces Z1 to Z6 (except Z4) must be fixed to the middle of pieces PD25 that were fixed on the hull in a previous assembly session.

Apply glue to peices Z3, Z5 and Z6 and locate them in the centre of the decorations PD25 on the quarterdeck and upper quarterdeck.

In a similar fashion, fix decorations Z1 and Z2 in the centre of the two pieces PD25 positioned on the left-hand side of the forecastle.

Fix decorations B1, B2, B3, B4 and B5 between the supports of the lower part of the spur, centring them in their respective positions and aligning them. Check the photo before gluing.

Futtock shrouds

Take the 4mm deadeyes that came with Issues 115 and 116, smooth them with fine-grained sandpaper, freshen the holes with a 0.8mm bit and paint or stain them black.

Take the 0.5mm brown thread and cut 30 pieces 110mm long. Tie a 4mm deadeye to the end of each brown thread, then make a binding with the 0.15mm thread, following the measurements shown in the instructions. (Check Step 19 of Issue 115).

The threads with the deadeyes (of the futtock shrouds) are inserted into the holes on the parapets of the lower tops of the three masts of your model.
Pass the threads of the futtock shrouds through the side holes of the parapet of the foretop, tighten them and fasten them to the upper pole of the shrouds with 0.15mm black thread. The futtock shrouds must be equally spaced on the upper pole.

Similarly, mount the futtock shrouds on the other side of the foretop. Repeat the operation on both sides of the mainmast and mizzenmast tops.

Prepare the shrouds of the second section - Cut 22 pieces of 0.5mm brown thread 220mm long (foremast and mainmast) and eight 120mm long (mizzenmast). Tie a deadeye to each shroud with the 0.15mm thread.

Second section shrouds

Make a deadeye tool, following Steps 21 to 23 of Issue 115 and the measurements shown in the first photo, to align all the deadeyes of the shrouds at the same height.

The procedure for installing the shrouds of the second sections is that given in the assembly guide in Issue 115 with the shrouds of the first section.

Insert the tool in the deadeyes of the shrouds and in the futtock shrouds of the foremast. Tie the loose ends of the shrouds at the top end of the second section. Finally, join the deadeyes of the shrouds to those of the futtock shrouds with the 0.15mm thread.

In a similar fashion, install the shrouds on the other side of the second section of the foremast. Repeat on both sides of the main and mizzenmasts.

Futtock shroud and second section Ratlines

With the 0.15mm thread, make the ratlines on the futtock shrouds and the shrouds of the second section of the masts. Do this on both sides of the model.
During the fitting of the shrouds, be careful to keep the threads evenly taut on both sides of the model so that the masts are perfectly aligned with one other.

Start fitting the ratlines on the futtock shrouds and the shrouds of the second section of the foremast. To do this, follow one of the two methods described in Steps 21 and 23 of Issue 116. Follow the measurements shown in the instructions.

By the same method, fit the ratlines on the futtock shrouds and on the shrouds of the second section of the mainmast. Always keep an eye on the measurements provided. Finally, repeating the same process (only the measurements change), make the ratlines of the futtock shrouds and of the shrouds of the second section of the mizzenmast.

Carefuly store the 3.5mm deadeyes and remaining thread, also the brass decoration Z4 (still attached to the brass fret), for a future stage.


Future issues:

Issue 118 - Contains a bamboo rod, dummy gun barrels, 3.5mm deadeyes, and brass decoration parts for the right-hand side of the hull.

Issue 119 - Contains assorted threads and dummy gun barrels.

Issue 120 - Contains birch wooden strips, diecast frames of the left-hand side door and left side decorations.

Issue 121 - Contains diecast frames of the right-hand side door and right-hand side bow decorations.

Issue 122 - Contains 0.25mm thread, deadeyes for the parrels and diecast decorations for the cat davits.

Issue 123: Contains the Mainsail, bamboo rod, diecast right-hand side decorations, Bowsprit decoration, crosstree and caps parts.

Issue 124 - Contains the Topsail, diecast left-hand side decorations, dummy cannon, belay pins, 4mm one-hole blocks and eyebolts.
Tomick attached the following image(s):
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Tomick
#3 Posted : 28 November 2014 15:20:58

Rank: Pro

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Joined: 24/08/2009
Posts: 42,751
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Issue 118 - Contains a bamboo rod, dummy gun barrels, 3.5mm deadeyes, and brass decoration parts for the right-hand side of the hull.

Decorations

Take the brass fret that came with this issue. Decorations B1, B2, B3, B4, B5, Z1, Z2, Z3, Z4, Z5 and Z6 are for the right-hand side of the model.
Detach all the decorations except piece Z4. The drawing shows the locations on the right-hand side of the hull where the decorations should be fixed. Pieces Z1 to Z6 should be glued in the middle of pieces PD25, which you have already installed on the hull in one of the previous work sessions.

Glue decorations Z1 to Z3 onto the PD25 pieces located on the quarterdeck and upper quarterdeck.

Glue decorations Z1, Z2 and Z3 in the middle of the three decorations PD25 in the stern area of the hull.

Glue decorations Z5 and Z6 into the middle of the two PD25 pieces located at the forecastle.

Glue decorations B1, B2, B3, B4 and B5 between the supports of the lower part of the beak on the right-hand side of the hull, centring them in their respective locations and aligning them.

Dummy guns

Take the six half-barrels that came with this issue and go over their surfaces with a file to remove any burrs. They are identified by the code 170. Coat the with metal primer then paint them bronze.

Cut six 10mm-long pieces from the bamboo dowel provided with this issue. These pieces will be identified by the code 170a.

Glue a piece 170a into the hole in the back of each of the barrels the half-barrels 170. The six half-barrels should be glued inside the indicated stern gun ports on the left-hand side of the hull.

Futtock shrouds

Take the 3.5mm deadeyes that came with Issues 117 and 118 and paint or stain them black.

Cut 22 pieces 80mm in length from the 0.5mm diameter brown thread.

Tie a 3.5mm deadeye to one end of each piece of brown thread, then whip it for 3mm with the 0.15mm light brown thread. Check Step 19 of Issue 115.

The threads with the deadeyes (the futtock shrouds) are inserted into the holes on the sides of the parapets of the midtops of the three masts on both sides of your model.

Pass the threads of the futtock shrouds through the side holes of the parapet of the foremast midtop and tighten and fix them to the upper ratline of the shrouds below. The futtock shrouds must be equally spaced on the ratline. Similarly, fit the futtock shrouds of the mainmast midtop.

To make the shrouds of the fore and mainmasts, cut 16 pieces 100mm long of 0.5mm brown thread. Tie a 3.5mm deadeye at one end of each shroud. With 0.15mm light brown thread, whip the end for 3mm, as you did earlier.

Fit the shrouds on the topmasts of the fore and mainmasts, working on both sides of the model. The procedure is the same as that for fitting the shrouds of the first section of the mast. For more information, check Issue 115.

The shrouds of the mizzen and topmast will be dealt with in a coming issue.

Ratlines

Following the measurements shown, fit the ratlines on the shrouds and the futtock shrouds with the 0.15mm thread. The way to make the ratlines was described and illustrated in Steps 21 and 23 of Issue 116.

With the 0.15mm thread, make the ratlines on the shrouds and futtock shrouds of the main topmast. Follow the measurements shown.

Similarly, fit the ratlines on the futtock shrouds of mizzen topmast.

This long and challenging work session is now complete.

Carefully store decoration Z4, still attached to the brass fret, will be used in a future work session.


Future issues:

Issue 119 - Contains assorted threads and dummy gun barrels.

Issue 120 - Contains birch wooden strips, diecast frames of the left-hand side door and left side decorations.

Issue 121 - Contains diecast frames of the right-hand side door and right-hand side bow decorations.

Issue 122 - Contains 0.25mm thread, deadeyes for the parrels and diecast decorations for the cat davits.

Issue 123 - Contains the Mainsail, bamboo rod, diecast right-hand side decorations, Bowsprit decoration, crosstree and caps parts.

Issue 124 - Contains the Topsail, diecast left-hand side decorations, dummy cannon, belay pins, 4mm one-hole blocks and eyebolts.

Issue 125 - Contains the Topgallant sail, Mainmast royal sail, 3mm rings, eyebolts, 4mm one-hole blocks, belay pins, dummy cannons and a figurine

Tomick attached the following image(s):
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Tomick
#4 Posted : 05 December 2014 15:27:06

Rank: Pro

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Joined: 24/08/2009
Posts: 42,751
Points: -6,228
Issue 119 - Contains assorted threads and dummy gun barrels.

Take the six dummy gun barrels that came with this issue (#170), smooth any burrs then coat them with metal primer and paint them bronze.

With the 2x300mm bamboo rod left over from your last assembly session, cut six 10mm-long pieces (170a), then glue pieces 170a into the holes in the back end of the half-barrels 170.

Fit the half-barrels on the right-hand side of your model in the ports indicated, repeating the operations shown in Steps 8 to 10 of Issue 99.

Yards:

Begin with the two yards of the bowsprit. Take the plans of masts and yards that came with Issue 113. There are two drawings of each yard showing: an identification code (V1 and V2, for example, for the yards of the bowsprit) and the length, diameter, type and the position of the blocks that you will need to attach. Another plan shows the position of the yards on each mast.

To make the yards, retrieve the dowel left over from Issue 111. The photo shows the points where you have to cut the dowel lengths to make each yard. Follow the measurements indicated on the plan. Each yard is distinguished by its identification code.

With a saw and a mitre bock, cut the yards, following the measurements given in the plans. Taper the ends of each yard with a fine-grained sanding block or use a mini wood turning lathe.

Finally, paint the yards a sapele colour and give them a coat of protective varnish, and when fully dry, label them with a peice of masking tape bearing the respective identification code on each yard.

To fit the rigging of the yards, you will need to attach a series of blocks. Retrieve the 4mm blocks (C), the 4mm double blocks (E) and the 7mm fiddle blocks (F) received with Issues 88, 90 and 94.

Check the drawings of where to fit the yards with the respective blocks C, E and F. The stropping of the blocks is done by tying a piece of 0.25mm thread around each block. Then the threads are fastened to the yards at the points indicated in the plans. Note that yard V14 has a number of bindings at its left-hand end as shown on the plan, complete these bindings with 0.25mm light brown thread.

This assembly session is now complete. Carefully store the yards until needed along with the remaining parts provided with this Issue.


Future issues:

Issue 120 - Contains birch wooden strips, diecast frames of the left-hand side door and left side decorations.

Issue 121 - Contains diecast frames of the right-hand side door and right-hand side bow decorations.

Issue 122 - Contains 0.25mm thread, deadeyes for the parrels and diecast decorations for the cat davits.

Issue 123 - Contains the Mainsail, bamboo rod, diecast right-hand side decorations, Bowsprit decoration, crosstree and caps parts.

Issue 124 - Contains the Topsail, diecast left-hand side decorations, dummy cannon, belay pins, 4mm one-hole blocks and eyebolts.

Issue 125 - Contains the topgallant sail, the Mainmast royal sail, 3mm rings, eyebolts, 4mm one-hole blocks, dummy gun barrels and a figurine.

Issue 126 - Contains the Foresail, bamboo dowel and dummy gun barrrels.
Tomick attached the following image(s):
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Tomick
#5 Posted : 12 December 2014 10:00:33

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Joined: 24/08/2009
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Issue 120 - Contains birch wooden strips, diecast frames of the left entry door and left side bow decorations.

Bow decorations

Take decorations PD54 to PD60 and frames PD64A, PD64B and PD64C that came with this issue, remove any burr's with a fine file, then coat them with metal primer and paint them gold.
Then use a fine paintbrush and black and white paint to retouch PD55, PD57 and PD59 as shown in the instructions.

The seven bow decorations PD54 to PD60 are to be fixed on the left-hand side of the model. Apply glue to pieces PD54 to PD60 and fix them on the bow, as shown in the instructions, centring them in place.

Entry port decorations

Take the three pieces of the left-hand entry port frame PD64A, PD64B and PD64C.
Apply a little glue in the joints of the frame PD64A and join it to the posts PD64B and PD64C. Use a fine paintbrush, retouch with black the details of the door just assembled (PD64).

Keep the frame safe for later mounting.

Fenders

Sand and paint a sapele colour one of the 2x2x300mm strips that came with this issue.

Looking at the central area of the left-hand side of the model, pick out the gun port of the lower gun deck indicated by the arrow in the step 8 photo.
Measure the distance between the wale and the frame. The measurement is only indicative and may vary slightly from model to model.

From the strip just painted, cut two equal lengths equal to the measurement just taken, these are identified as part #198 (fenders).
Now measure the distance between the two central frames of the side. These frames are 2mm wide.

With a flat file, make two notches 2mm long on both 198 pieces as far apart as the distance between the frames of the side. The 198 (fenders) are to be shaped so that they fit precisely between the frames of the hull of your model.
Ten glue the fenders on the left-hand side of the model at the sides of the gun port identified. The fenders should be set 26mm from one another, in a symmetrical position with respect to the gun port.

Repeat the process to fit fenders on the right-hand side of the hull.

Entry port ladders

Take the second 2x2x300mm strip and smooth it carefully with fine-grained sandpaper. Take the tool for shaping strips that you received with Issue 73. The step photo shows which profile slot to use in this instance.
Insert the strip into the slot and by sliding the tool with light pressure, remove a bit of material at a time until the strip shape is created, then carefully sand the strip smooth.

The ladder of the left-hand side of the hull should be mounted under the access door to the ship, which is located near the main wale. To make the rungs of the ladder, cut two pieces 18mm long, and seven pieces 9mm long, from the shaped strip (199 and 200).

Glue the two long rungs (199) below the threshold of the left-hand access door of your model, then add the seven shorter rungs (200). There needs to be a distance of 1mm between the first two steps, and of 1.5mm between the others. You can if you wish, coat the steps with matt varnish.

Repeat the process to make make the entry ladder of the right-hand side of the model.

This completes this session.


Future issues:

Issue 121 - Contains diecast frames of the right-hand side door and right-hand side bow decorations.

Issue 122 - Contains 0.25mm thread, deadeyes for the parrels and diecast decorations for the cat davits.

Issue 123: Contains the Mainsail, bamboo dowel, diecast right-hand side decorations, Bowsprit decoration, crosstree and cap parts.

Issue 124 - Contains the Topsail, diecast left-hand side decorations, dummy cannon, belay pins, 4mm one-hole blocks and eyebolts.

Issue 125 - Contains the topgallant sail, the Mainmast royal sail, 3mm rings, eyebolts, 4mm one-hole blocks, dummy gun barrels and a figurine.

Issue 126 - Contains the Foresail, bamboo dowel and dummy gun barrrels.

Issue 127 - Contains the Foremast topsail, dummy gun barrels and diecast decorations for the right-hand side of the hull.
Tomick attached the following image(s):
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Tomick
#6 Posted : 22 December 2014 09:22:54

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Joined: 24/08/2009
Posts: 42,751
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Issue 121 - Contains diecast frames of the right-hand side door and right-hand side bow decorations.

Decorations

Take decorations PD54 to PD60 and frames PD64A, PD64B and PD64C that came with this issue, remove any burrs with a fine file, coat them with metal primer and paint them gold. Then retouch pieces PD55, PD57 and PD59 using a fine paintbrush brush and black and white paint.

The seven bow decorations PD54 to PD60 are to be installed on the right-hand side of the model.

Fix pieces PD54 to PD60, centring them inside their frames. Follow the instructons show the correct arrangement.

Entry port decorations

Take the components of the right-hand entry port frame – PD64A, PD64B and PD64C. Glue the joints of the upper frame PD64A to the posts PD64B and PD64C. When the glue has fully set, use a fine paintbrush to retouch the details of the frame (identified by the code PD64) with black paint. Then carefully store this piece until needed.

Cannonball crates

Retrieve thee 1x3x300mm strip of basswood and the cannonballs that you received with Issue 53. Gently smooth the surfaces of the strip with fine-grained sandpaper. Then, apply a coat of matt varnish.

Cut four segments from the strip: two 8mm long (pieces A) and two 3mm long (pieces B). Glue the four pieces together to form the first crate. The sides of the crate must be at right angles to one another. then make another five crates in the same way.

The six cannonball crates go on the forecastle of the model. glue them onto the forecastle deck, in the positions shown in the instructions. Then fill each crate with cannon balls, securing them with clear glue or varnish.

Take the buckets that you assembled and painted in the assembly sessions of Issues 65 and 69. Glue a bucket in front of each of the forecastle cannonball crates.

Fitting the Figurehead

Take the figurehead assembled completed in Issue 109. The figurehead should be mounted at the end of the bow spur of the model. Apply a thin layer of metal glue on the end of the spur and fix the base of the figurehead platform on to the spur. Ensure it is set level before the glue sets.

Fitting the Issue 63 cleat

Retrieve the cleat left over from Issue 63. It must be fixed on the top of the bowsprit, at a distance of 3mm from the first binding of the mast. During fixing, make sure that the cleat is precisely aligned with the bowsprit.

Decoration retouch

After placing the hull with its left-hand side facing you, locate decoration PD35 on the side of the model at the forecastle.
If you have not already done this, use a fine paintbrush and red paint to retouch decoration PD35 as shown. Then repeat the same operation on decoration PD35 on the right-hand side of the model in a symmetrical position to the first.

This completes this session.

Future issues:

Issue 122 - Contains 0.25mm thread, deadeyes for the parrels and diecast decorations for the cat davits.

Issue 123: Contains the Mainsail, bamboo rod, diecast right-hand side decorations, Bowsprit decoration, crosstree and cap parts.

Issue 124 - Contains the Topsail, diecast left-hand side decorations, dummy cannon, belay pins, 4mm one-hole blocks and eyebolts.

Issue 125 - Contains the topgallant sail, the Mainmast royal sail, 3mm rings, eyebolts, 4mm one-hole blocks, dummy gun barrels and a figurine.

Issue 126 - Contains the Foresail, bamboo dowel and dummy gun barrrels.

Issue 127 - Contains the Foremast topsail, dummy gun barrels and diecast decorations for the right-hand side of the hull.

Issue 128 - Contains the Mainmast royal sail, Foremast royal sail and diecast left-hand side hull decorations.

Tomick attached the following image(s):
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Tomick
#7 Posted : 23 December 2014 12:57:59

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Joined: 24/08/2009
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Issue 122 - Contains 0.25mm thread, deadeyes for the parrels and diecast decorations for the cat davits.

Decorations

Take the two decorations of the cat davits (the lion heads with code number PD65), remove any burrs with a fine file then coat then with metal primer and paint them gold.

Glue one on to each end the of both cat davits, located (one each side) in the forward area of the hull.

Catharping

Its time to make the catharping rope on the Bowsprit. Take 1.5m of 0.25mm thread and make a slip knot at one end. Wind the thread around the bowsprit and pass the free end of the thread through the loop. Tighten the slip knot and seal it with a drop of glue.
Pass the free end of the thread through the hole in the cutwiter closest to the hull, then bring it back up, winding it round the bowsprit again. In the same way, make another 11 turns of thread, one next to the other, without overlapping. Finally, fix the catharping with a central tie and secure the knot with a drop of glue.

Make the second bowsprit catharping on the portion of mast shown in the photos. The binding is done in the same way as with the first catharping, with the difference being that the thread must pass through the hole in the cutwiter farthest from the hull.

Bowsprit Shrouds

Take the 4mm deadeyes that you received with previous issues and paint them black. Then take the dark brown 0.5mm thread and ten 4mm deadeyes. Join each deadeye to a piece of dark brown thread, making a binding with 0.15mm light brown thread. Follow the measurements shown in the photos.

Again, with 0.15mm thread, tie the ten deadeyes to the eyebolts on the edges of the bow spur.

To make the bowsprit shrouds, join five deadeyes to as many pieces of dark brown thread with bindings made with 0.15mm thread. Keep to the measurements shown in the photos.

To get shrouds of the correct length, measure with a piece of thread the distance between a pair of deadeyes fixed to the spur, passing over the bowsprit. Then tie a second deadeye to each shroud, placing it at the previously measured distance from the first. Mount the shrouds over the bowsprit and connect them to the deadeyes of the spur with 0.15mm thread.

Using the 0.15mm thread, make the ratlines of the bowsprit shrouds that you have just installed. The ratlines must be at a distance of 5mm from one another.

Small mast and futtock shrouds

You now need to attach the shrouds and the futtock shrouds on the small mast on the tip of the bowsprit.

To make futtock shrouds, tie four 4mm deadeyes to the end of four 150mm-long pieces of dark brown 0.5mm thread. To strop the deadeyes, uses the 0.15mm thread.

Take a futtock shroud, insert the free end in one of the side holes of the bowsprit top, pass the futtock shroud under the mast and insert it into the hole symmetrical to the first on the other side of the top.

Take another 4mm deadeye and tie it to the free end of the futtock shroud with 0.15mm thread. Fix the other futtock shrouds in the same way, keeping them at 5mm from one another. If necessary, you can fix the futtock shrouds to the bowsprit with a drop of glue.

Topmast Shrouds & Ratlines

Prepare the topmast shrouds, tying eight 4mm deadeyes to the end of eight 100mm-long pieces of 0.5mm thread. To bind the deadeyes, use the 0.15mm thread. Tie the shrouds to the upper end of the topmast (four each side). With the 0.15mm thread, join the deadeyes of the shrouds to those on the top. The distance between the deadeyes must be 5mm.

Put ratlines on the shrouds on both sides of the topmast. Use the 0.15mm thread and leave a distance of 5mm between the ratlines. With the 0.15mm thread, also fit ratlines on the topmast futtock shrouds. Work on both sides of the top and leave a 5mm gap between the ratlines.

Foremast, Mainmast and Mizzenmast top stays

Take the wooden fret that came with Issue 94 (holding pieces 156, 160, 161 and 162). Remove the pieces from the die and put a coat of Superglue on them to make them less prone to breakage.

Use fine-grained sandpaper to gently smooth the sides of parts 156, 160, 161 and 162. Then, put on a coat of a clear matt varnish.

To make the foremast, mainmast and mizzenmast top stays, use the 0.15mm thread tie four deadeyes 162 to the end of four 400mm long pieces of brown thread.

To make the collars of the stays, again with the 0.5mm thread, tie four deadeyes 162 to four 100mm-long pieces of brown thread.

Take a collar with its deadeye 162, wind it round the bowsprit and fix it with a binding made with the 0.15mm thread. To find the exact point on the bowsprit to which to fix the collar, look closely at the photos.

Foremast Stay

Take a stay and insert the free end under the foremast lower top, passing it through the hole between the crosstree and the foot of the second section of mast. Wind the thread around the mast and insert it into the other hole of the crosstree. Adjust the length of the forestay (see Step 28), and fix the end with the 0.15mm thread below the top.
Connect the lower end of the forestay to the collar of the bowsprit by making a tie between the deadeyes. Make the tie with the 0.25mm thread, leaving 9mm between the deadeyes.

Mainmast Stay

Now you have to stretch the mainstay between the main lower top and the foot of the foremast. Fixing it under the top should be done as shown in Step 27 for the forestay. The lower end of the stay should be attached to a 40mm-long collar fixed at 22mm from the foot of the foremast. Make the tie with 0.25mm thread, leaving 9mm between the deadeyes.

Mizzenmast Stay

Fit the mizzenmast stay between the mizzen lower top and the foot of the mainmast. The upper end of the stay should be attached by the same method used for the two previous stays. The lower end of the stay should be attached to a 40mm-long collar set at 52mm from the foot of the mainmast. Do the tie with 0.25mm thread, leaving 9mm between the deadeyes.

Now it is the turn of the topmast stay that runs between the mainmast midtop and the end of the first section of the foremast. Tie the upper end of the stay as you did the previous ones. The lower end of the stay should be attached to a collar set on the first section of the foremast. Again, make the tie with 0.25mm thread, leaving 9mm between the deadeyes.

Crow feet

Now begin to prepare crow feet of the three major stays. Tie a piece of 0.25mm thread about 100mm long around each of the components 156 and 160.

Fix one of the two pieces 160 to the forestay. Then, with the 0.25mm thread, attach the piece to the holes in the forward edge of the top. Follow the 60mm measurement indicated. The threads anchored to the top go into five of the eight holes of piece 160.

In the same way, make the crow foot of the Mainstay.

In similar fashion, fit the Mizzenmast crow foot using piece 156. Keep to the 45mm measurement given in the photo. Keep the pieces left over for your next assembly session.

This completes this session, carefully store the remaining parts.


Future issues:

Issue 123 - Contains the Mainsail, bamboo rod, diecast right-hand side decorations, Bowsprit decoration, crosstree and cap parts.

Issue 124 - Contains the Topsail, diecast left-hand side decorations, dummy cannon, belay pins, 4mm one-hole blocks and eyebolts.

Issue 125 - Contains the topgallant sail, the Mainmast royal sail, 3mm rings, eyebolts, 4mm one-hole blocks, dummy gun barrels and a figurine.

Issue 126 - Contains the Foresail, bamboo dowel and dummy gun barrrels.

Issue 127 - Contains the Foremast topsail, dummy gun barrels and diecast decorations for the right-hand side of the hull.

Issue 128 - Contains the Mainmast royal sail, Foremast royal sail and diecast left-hand side hull decorations.

Issue 129 - Contains the Bowsprit topgallant sail, Spritsail, diecast decorations of the spur, balusters of the quarter galleries and belay pins.

Issue 130 - Contains the Mizzenmast lateen sail and diecast decorations for the spur.
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