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Official Suzuki Hayabusa build diary - Stages 41 - 47 Options
Tomick
#1 Posted : 02 February 2015 12:04:13

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Pack 13 contains stages 41 - 44

Stage 41 - Contains the tail light unit, tail LED lamp and self-tapping screws.

Hold the tail light in one hand and the LED in the other. Make sure to hold the LED by the lens and avoid touching the soldered joints, then push the LED lens into the circular hole in the rear of the tail light.

Carefully pass the LED cable through the hole at the back of the rear subframe from Stage 39. Hold the tail light in position against two recesses in the rear subframe, and place a 2x6mm self-tapping screw into one of the holes in the rear subframe. Tighten the screw, then tighten a second 2x6mm self-tapping screw into place in the second hole.
(The 2x6mm screws may be a little tight to fully tighten, therefore add a little lubricant onto the screws before you screwing them place).

This stage is now complete. Place the remaining parts into a labelled bag and carefully store the subframe assembly.
Tomick attached the following image(s):
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Tomick
#2 Posted : 02 February 2015 12:06:57

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Stage 42 - Contains the clutch cover, water pump, oil filter, starter motor, cylinder inlet connector, breather cover, engine sprocket cover and screws.

Take the crankcase assembly and remove any masking tape holding the two halves together, then remove the starter cover from the right crankcase half.

Take the starter motor and starter cover. Locate the rectangular projection on the motor and the corresponding hole in the starter cover, and pPush the projection on the starter motor into the hole in the starter cover. Then place the starter cover, with the starter motor attached, back into place on the right crankcase.
Hold the starter cover onto the crankcase half, and turn the parts over so that the inside of the crankcase is visible. Take a 2.3x6mm (silver) self-tapping screw (Stage 26) and place it into the hole indicated and tighten.

Place the breather cover over the recessed area on top of the right crankcase half. Push the breather cover down into the recessed area, inserting the projections on it into the holes in the crankcase. Hold the breather cover in place and turn the crankcase over. Place a 2.3x6mm (silver) tapping screw into the hole indicated and tighten.

Locate the hole in the bottom of the oil filter and the matching projection at the front of the crankcase, then push the oil filter onto the projection.

This stage is now complete. The two halves of the crankcase will be screwed together in Stage 45, so leave them separate for the moment. Store any unused parts in a bag labelled with the stage number.
Tomick attached the following image(s):
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Tomick
#3 Posted : 02 February 2015 12:08:54

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Stage 43 - Contains the seat rail and rear reservoir tank.

Take the rear reservoir and locate the hole in the side of it. Then locate the corresponding projection on the inside of the seat rail, then push the rear reservoir onto the projection on the rail.
If the reservoir is a loose fit, when the rail is fitted to the subframe at a later stage, it will then be secure. in the meantime you can use a drop of glue to secure it now to prevent its loss.

This stage is now complete, carefully store the frame until it is needed.
Tomick attached the following image(s):
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Tomick
#4 Posted : 02 February 2015 12:10:54

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Stage 44 - Contains the control unit cover, tool bag, rear subframe front and the left side guard.

Take the battery box supplied with Stage 40. It is best to tape the wires to the box as shown, to reduce the chance of them breaking loose from their connections.

Take the rear subframe assembled in Stage 41, and pass the wire from the tail light and the battery box through the hole in the centre, then pPlace the battery box directly above the rear subframe, and align the holes at the side of the box with those in the subframe. Fit a 2.3x6mm (silver) self-tapping screw (Stage 39) into the right-hand hole, then tighten a 2.3x6mm screw into the left-hand hole.

Loosen the screw holding the battery box lid in place, and then remove it. Take the tool bag and fit the two holes in its underside over the two projections on the battery box lid. The holes and projections are different sizes, so the tool bag will only fit if it is the right way round, then push the tool bag down onto the lid. Then, re-fit the battery box lid onto the battery box.

Take the rear subframe front, and identify the projections on the top side: one is thick and the other is thin. Then match them up with the corresponding holes in the underside of the rear subframe, align the projections with the holes and push the subframe front into place.

Now place the two square projections at the front end of the control unit cover into the two cutout sections at the front of the subframe, and sit the cover in place.

Align the projections at the ends of the left side guard with the corresponding holes in the seat rail. Push the left side guard into the holes in the seat rail, then Place a 2x6mm self-tapping screw into the hole in the seat rail and tighten the screw into place, but don't overtighten. Now tighten a second 2x6mm self-tapping screw into the hole in the seat rail that is aligned with the end of the side guard.

This stage is now complete, carfully store the rear subframe and seat rail.
Tomick attached the following image(s):
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Tomick
#5 Posted : 10 March 2015 16:48:15

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Pack 14 contains stages 45 - 47

Stage 45 - Contains gear shift parts and screws.

Take the gearshift pedal lever and push the pedal cover over the pedal, then take the pedal stopper, which fits inside the cover and over the end of the gear pedal.

Insert a 2x5mm (silver) self-tapping screw into the hole in the gearshift spindle, then insert the end of the screw into the screw hole in the gearshift link rod (closed end). Tighten the screw into the hole in the gearshift link rod just enough not to bind movement of the spindle.

Take the left crankcase half from Stage 42 and line up the end of the gearshift spindle and the indicated hole, with the link rod pointing downwards, and insert the gearshift spindle into the hole in the crankcase half.
Turn the crankcase half over, and adjust the position of the spindle so that the flat side is positioned as shown in the instructions. Now take the gearshift cam and align the cutout with the end of the spindle, and push the cam down onto the end of the spindle, with the projection positioned as shown. Place a 2.3x6mm (silver) screw into the hole in the cam and tighten the screw into place in the end of the spindle.

Test the link rod - Holding the crankcase half, move the link rod back and forth. This should rotate the spindle, and you should hear and feel the mechanism click each time you do this.

Remove the clutch outer cover from the right crankcase half from Stage 42. Align the two mounting pins and the two screw holes of both halves of the crankcase. Then tap the two circled holes with a 2.3mm screw or tap.

Push the two halves of the crankcase together, then take two 2.3x6mm (silver) screws (Stage 21) and insert them into the two indicated holes in the right crankcase half and tighten the two screws into place.

Place the clutch cover back into position on the crankcase, insert a 2.3x6mm (silver) screw (Stage 21) into the hole in the centre of the clutch cover and tighten the screw into place.

Now take the outer clutch cover (Stage 42) and align the projections with the holes in the clutch cover and push the outer cover into place.

Locate the projection on the oil return tank (Stage 34) and the corresponding hole in the crankcase, push the projection on the oil return tank into the hole in the crankcase.

This stage is now complete and the two crankcase halves have been combined, carefully label and store the unused parts.
Tomick attached the following image(s):
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Tomick
#6 Posted : 10 March 2015 17:25:54

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Stage 46 - Contains the rectifier, chain cover, relay unit, rear disc brake caliper, connector socket, torque rod link and screws.

Take the cylinder block, which was assembled in Stage 20, and remove the throttle body from it.

Tap a 2.3mm thread in the two holes on the underside of the cylinder block using a tap or spare 2.3mm screw.

Take the breather cover from Stage 42 and align the projections on it with the indicated holes in the cylinder block and push the breather cover into place.

Push the crankcase and cylinder block together and insert a 2.3x8mm (silver) screw (Stage 30) into the indicated hole inside the crankcase, and tighten in place, then tighten a second 2.3x8mm (silver) screw into the second hole inside the crankcase.

Take the oil pan (Stage 35) and position the cable in the cut-out, then fit the oil pan and tighten a 2.3x6mm (silver) screw into both holes.

Take the seat rail (Stage 44), and align the projections on the rectifier with the holes, push the three projections into the three holes in the seat rail.

Take the rear subframe (Stage 44) and remove the control unit cover. Place the seat rail onto the subframe and aAlign the screw holes in the seat rail with the corresponding holes in the rear subframe. Tighten a 2.3x6mm (silver) self-tapping screw (Stage 39) into the aligned holes at the rear of the assembly. The tighten two more 2.3x6mm (silver) self- tapping screws into the other two aligned holes. Then tighten another three 2.3x6mm (silver) self-tapping screws into the three holes on the other side of the seat rail, to secure it to the rear subframe.

Place the connector socket over the two projections on the side of the rear subframe and push the connector socket onto the subframe.

Turn the rear subframe over and pass the cables from the tail lamp and battery box through the opening.

This stage is now complete, store and label all unused parts until they are needed.
Tomick attached the following image(s):
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Tomick
#7 Posted : 10 March 2015 17:53:06

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Stage 47 - Contains LED tester, adhesive backing, horn, horn stay, rear right reflector stay, rear left reflector stay and rear reflector lenses.

Take the rear swingarm assembly (Stage 43) and loosen the two of the four screws in its underside, with the screws loosened, you should be able to slightly lift the two upper ends to allow the chain to pass beneath one of them.

Take the chain (Stage 29), if you have not already done so, Lightly coat it with WD40 or a light oil, then pass it between the ends of the swingarm, pull the chain towards the front of the swingarm, then tighten the two screws that you loosened earlier.

Take the chain cover (Stage 46), and align the three projections with the three holes in the swingarm, push the projections of the chain cover into the holes in the swingarm. Adjust the chain so that it is sitting in the
join between the cover and the swingarm.

Locate the hole in the rear brake caliper (Stage 46) and the projection on the torque link rod (Stage 46). Insert the projection on the torque link rod into the hole in the caliper.

Place the rear wheel (Stage 24) between the two ends of the swingarm, sdjust the position of the wheel so that the hole at its centre is aligned with the hole at the end of the swingarm, then insert the rear axle (Stage 25) into the axle hole of the swingarm. Push the axle through the rear wheel until the end is visible on the other side. Then place the rear brake caliper over the disc, aligning the hole with the end of the axle and fit the caliper onto the end of the axle, then fit the other side of the swingarm onto the other end of the axle.

Place the rear axle shaft nut onto the end of the shaft, and tighten it as much as you can by hand and finish tightening the nut onto the end of the axle with a wrench.

Check that the wheel can still rotate freely. If it won’t, try loosening the nut and realigning the parts, then re-tighten the nut.

Turn the caliper around until the torque link rod can reach the swingarm. Place the end of the link over the attachment point on the swingarm and temporarily fix the torque link rod to the swingarm with masking tape.

Turn the assembly around, and pull the bottom of the chain to extend it forward and at the same time fFit the chain onto the lower part of the sprocket, then slowly rotate the wheel anticlockwise, so that the chain gets picked up by the sprocket as it turns.
Check that there are no twists in the chain, and that it is properly seated on the sprocket. Then temporarily attach the chain to the front of the swingarm with masking tape.

This stage is now complete. Store the rear wheel and swingarm assembly safely for later use, along with any unused parts.
Tomick attached the following image(s):
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