Welcome Guest Search | Active Topics | Log In | Register

Official Suzuki Hayabusa build diary - Stages 48 - 54 Options
Tomick
#1 Posted : 20 April 2015 16:45:34
Rank: Administration
Build-Diary Medal: Build-Diary Medal of HonourPublisher Medal: Article published MedalActive Service Medal: 500 post active service MedalPurple Medal: Super active service medal for 1000 postsRed Medal: Red MedalTurquoise Medal: Turquoise Medal for model making know-how contribution
Groups:

Joined: 08/03/2010
Posts: 19,138
Points: 53,391
Location: UK
Pack 15 contains Stages 48-50

Stage 48 - Contains the rear fender, right and left rear indicators, pivot shaft & nut, 68mm shaft and cable holders.

We need the rear subframe (Stage 46), AAA batteries x3 and the LED test board (Stage 47).

Take the LED test board, cut the front of all of the sockets using a sharp blade. Carefully cut along the points indicated for each socket in Steps 4 & 5, then fold the cut sections forward.


Take the rear subframe, remove the lid of the battery box and place three AAA batteries into the box.
Make sure you position them the right way round, as marked on the base of the box. You will need to remove the black cross rail to fit the central battery then refit the rail.

Route the battery cable and the rear light cable through the hole in the subframe, as shown.

Insert the black connector into the black socket on the test board, then Insert the green connector into the white socket at the corner, with ‘JP3’ printed below it.
When the green connector is plugged into socket JP3 on the LED test board, the tail light should come on.

Carefully remove the green connector from socket JP3, and insert the rear left indicator connector (blue) into socket JP3 which should light the indicator. Now remove the blue indicator plug and fit the yellow plug of the rear right indicator cable into socket JP3 which should light up. Remove the yellow plug and black plug from the test board.

This stage is now complete. Store the two indicators and the LED test board for later use.
Tomick attached the following image(s):
S48-2.JPG
S48-3.JPG
S48-5.JPG
S48-6.JPG
S48-7.JPG
S48-8.JPG
S48-9.JPG
Tomick
#2 Posted : 20 April 2015 16:49:10
Rank: Administration
Build-Diary Medal: Build-Diary Medal of HonourPublisher Medal: Article published MedalActive Service Medal: 500 post active service MedalPurple Medal: Super active service medal for 1000 postsRed Medal: Red MedalTurquoise Medal: Turquoise Medal for model making know-how contribution
Groups:

Joined: 08/03/2010
Posts: 19,138
Points: 53,391
Location: UK
Stage 49 - Contains the right front footrest assembly, rear brake pedal, rear brake master cylinder, rear brake hose, screws, rear reservoir tank hose and top lamp switch wire.

You will need, relay unit (Stage 46), rear subframe (Stage 46) LED test board (Stage 47).

Before working through the steps in this stage, you will need to dismantle the rear subframe to reposition the battery box and tail light cables.

Remove the two screws that hold the battery box in place on the rear subframe, then remove the battery box. Following the steps in Stage 46, remove the seat rail from the rear subframe.

Line up the relay unit (Stage 46) with the seat rail, tTurn the relay unit so that the pin is aligned with the hole in the seat rail. Push the pin into the hole, and turn the unit so that the U-shaped cut-out is around the other hole in the seat rail. Route the two cables extending from the relay unit and move them outside of the seat rail.
Refit the seat rail to the rear subframe, following the instructions in Stage 46.

Pass the tail light cable through the outlined hole in the rear subframe. Now pass the battery box cable through the same hole, and refit the battery box following the steps given in Stage 44. Refit batteries into the battery box if you have removed them.

Line up the rear brake pedal with the hollow post on the right front footrest. Be careful not to damage the wires when handling the footrest. Turn the brake pedal slightly so that the outlined when handling the pedal.
projection is next to the button on the switch. Place the hole of the brake pedal over the hollow post of the footrest. After fitting the brake pedal, make sure that it moves freely. Also, test that the projection engages with the switch.
Place a 2.3x5mm screw with washer into the hole in the footrest. Tighten the screw into the hole to secure the brake pedal but ensure that the pedal is able to move freely.

Locate the spring on the footrest, then grip the loop on the free end with pliers and hook it over the projection on the brake pedal, push the loop down over the projection so that it’s secure.

Line up the black tip of the brake pedal with the rear brake master cylinder and push the two parts together. Rotate the master cylinder until the two holes at its side align with the two pins on the footrest and push the two holes onto the pins. Test that the footrest moves freely up and down.

Prepare the battery box cable and the LED test board, as in Stage 48 and push the battery box connector into the black socket of the LED tester board. Line up the connector at the end of the rear brake cable with the green socket on the board. The central ridge on the connector should be facing outwards, push the connector into the socket.
Move the brake pedal to engage it with the switch on the footrest bracket. This should light up the LED on the board. When you have checked this, remove the connectors from the board.

This stage is now complete. Store any unused parts in labelled bags.
Tomick attached the following image(s):
S49-1.JPG
S49-2.JPG
S49-3.JPG
S49-4.JPG
S49-5.JPG
S49-6.JPG
S49-7.JPG
S49-8.JPG
S49-9.JPG
S49-10.JPG
S49-11.JPG
S49-12.JPG
S49-13.JPG
S49-14.JPG
S49-15.JPG
S49-16.JPG
Tomick
#3 Posted : 20 April 2015 16:52:43
Rank: Administration
Build-Diary Medal: Build-Diary Medal of HonourPublisher Medal: Article published MedalActive Service Medal: 500 post active service MedalPurple Medal: Super active service medal for 1000 postsRed Medal: Red MedalTurquoise Medal: Turquoise Medal for model making know-how contribution
Groups:

Joined: 08/03/2010
Posts: 19,138
Points: 53,391
Location: UK
Stage 50 - Contains bracket B & E, the left front footrest, fuel cock, screws and base frame 1.

You will need: Adhesive backing (Stage 47), Rear right reflector stay (Stage 47), Rear left reflector stay (Stage 47), Rear reflector lens x2 (Stage 47), Horn (Stage 47), Horn stay (Stage 47), Rear fender (Stage 48)
and the rear right & left indicators (Stage 48).

Take the adhesive backing from Stage 47 and peel back the covering over the discs. Remove the backing from one of the discs. Place the adhesive disc in the centre of the back of one of the rear reflector lenses
(Stage 47). Then remove the backing from the adhesive disc. Place the reflector into the recessed circle of one of the rear reflector stays (from Stage 47). Push the two parts together to ensure that the adhesive sticks properly.
Repeat to assemble the second reflector.

The reflectors are marked on the R & L (Left & Rigt). Take the rear fender (Stage 48), and align the T-shaped projection of the left reflector with the corresponding hole in the left-hand side of the rear fender. Insert the projection of the left reflector into the hole in the fender and push the reflector into place. Now fit the right-hand reflector onto the right side of the fender.

Locate the large holes on either side of the rear fender. The hole on the left-hand side has a notch in it. Locate the raised projection on the rear left indicator (blue connector). Insert the connector into the hole on the left side of the rear fender, pPass the left indicator cable through the hole in the rear fender. Turn the indicator around so that the raised projection lines up with the notch in the hole and fit the indicator into place on the fender. Push the indicator from the outside while pushing the rear fender from the inside, to ensure that the two engage properly.

Insert the right indicator connector (yellow) through the hole in the right-hand side of the fender. Pass the cable through the hole, and turn the right indicator around to face the same way as the one on the left. Fit the indicator into place on the fender, then push it from the outside while pushing the rear fender from the inside, to ensure that the two engage properly.

Prepare the horn and horn stay (Stage 47). Hold the stay, as shown, with the shorter projection closest to the horn. Push the projection into the hole in the back of the horn.

This complete's pack 15. Carefully store the remaining parts.
Tomick attached the following image(s):
S50-1.JPG
S50-2.JPG
S50-3.JPG
S50-4.JPG
S50-5.JPG
S50-6.JPG
S50-7.JPG
S50-8.JPG
S50-9.JPG
S50-10.JPG
Tomick
#4 Posted : 22 May 2015 17:30:03
Rank: Administration
Build-Diary Medal: Build-Diary Medal of HonourPublisher Medal: Article published MedalActive Service Medal: 500 post active service MedalPurple Medal: Super active service medal for 1000 postsRed Medal: Red MedalTurquoise Medal: Turquoise Medal for model making know-how contribution
Groups:

Joined: 08/03/2010
Posts: 19,138
Points: 53,391
Location: UK
Pack 16 contains Stages 51 - 54

Stage 51 - Contains base frame 5, left & right housing caps, joint E, radiator reservoir tank, screws, radiator reservoir tank cap and radiator inlet hose connector.

You will need: The rear subframe (Stage 49), Base frame 1 (Stage 50), Joint B (Stage 50), Joint E (Stage 50) 4x7mm screws x4 (Stage 50).

Take the radiator reservoir tank and radiator reservoir tank cap. Align the pin on the cap with the hole in the tank and insert the pin of the cap into the hole in the tank, and push it in place.

Place the tank into a labelled bad for future use.

Take the left housing cap and place it in the indicated area on the left side of the rear subframe. Align the pin and the hole of the housing cap with the holes in the subframe. Push the pin on the housing cap into the
indicated hole in the subframe, then tighten a 2.3x5mm screw into the aligned holes of the cap and subframe.

Repeat on the right side of the rear subframe to fit the right housing cap.

This completes the model assembly for this Stage, carefully store the remaining parts in a labelled bag.

Display base assembly 1

Place joint E at the end of base frame 1 (both from Stage 50), align the holes of joint E with those in frame 1, then lightly tighten two 4x7mm screws in place. Make sure that the screws aren’t fully tightened, so as to allow the joint some play and check that joint E can move slightly in each direction. This freedom of movement will be important when you join the base frames together.

Now take joint B (Stage 50), and place it on base frame 1 in the position and orientation shown, align the holes of joint B with those in base frame 1, then lightly tighten the 4x7mm screws in place and check that joint B can move slightly in each direction.

This display base stage is now complete, set it aside until the next stage.
Tomick attached the following image(s):
S51-1.JPG
S51-2.JPG
S51-3.JPG
S51-4.JPG
S51-5.JPG
S51-6.JPG
S51-7.JPG
S51-8.JPG
S51-9.JPG
S51-10.JPG
Tomick
#5 Posted : 22 May 2015 17:34:03
Rank: Administration
Build-Diary Medal: Build-Diary Medal of HonourPublisher Medal: Article published MedalActive Service Medal: 500 post active service MedalPurple Medal: Super active service medal for 1000 postsRed Medal: Red MedalTurquoise Medal: Turquoise Medal for model making know-how contribution
Groups:

Joined: 08/03/2010
Posts: 19,138
Points: 53,391
Location: UK
Stage 52 - Contains base frame 3, screws, joints C & D, threaded brass knobs, fuel pump cover, plug caps, tensioner adjuster and the throttle sensor cable.

You will need: Engine block (Stage 46), Throttle body (Stage 46), Fuel tank (Stage 18), Fuel cock (Stage 50) Base frame 5 (Stage 51), Joint E (Stage 51), 4x7mm screws x4 (Stage 51), Base frame 1 (Stage 51).

Align the D-shaped end of the fuel cock (Stage 50) with the matching hole in the underside of the fuel tank (Stage 18), then press it into place in the orientation shown. Then store the fuel tank for later use.

Take the tensioner adjuster and align the pin with the indicated hole in the engine block and push the tensioner in place.

Take the four plug caps, Align the D-shaped end of one of each plug cap with the four plug-holes in the top of the engine, and push each plug cap into place.

Remove the joint hose from the throttle body (Stage 46). Take the throttle sensor cable and pass the longer leg of the forked end through the indicated hole in the joint hose. Align the end of the throttle sensor cable with the indicated hole in the throttle body and push the end of the cable into the hole in the throttle body. Then Push the joint hose back into place on the throttle body.

Align the shorter leg of the forked cable end with the hole indicated in the throttle body, and push the end of the cable into the hole in the throttle body. Align the D-shaped end of the cable with the indicated hole at the end of the throttle body, and push the end of the cable into the hole.

This assembly stage of the model is now complete. Store the assembled parts until they are needed, and store any unused parts in a labelled bag.

Display base assembly 2

Place joint E at the end of base frame 5 (both from Stage 51), aligning the holes, then lightly tighten a 4x7mm screw into the two holes.
Now take base frame 5 and place it at the end of base frame 1, where joint E is and align the holes of joint E with the holes in base frame 5. Then Lightly tighten two 4x7mm screws into the two holes in joint E.

Hold the two frames together on a flat surface at a right angle, then fully tighten the four screws to secure the frame pieces.

This stage of the display base assembly is now complete. As the base is much larger than the finished model, you will need a larger area in which to work on it as it nears completion.

Tomick attached the following image(s):
S52-1.JPG
S52-2.JPG
S52-3.JPG
S52-4.JPG
S52-5.JPG
S52-6.JPG
S52-7.JPG
S52-8a.JPG
S52-8b.JPG
S52-9.JPG
S52-10.JPG
S52-11.JPG
S52-12.JPG
S52-13.JPG
S52-14.JPG
S52-14.JPG
S52-15.JPG
S52-16.JPG
S52-17.JPG
Tomick
#6 Posted : 22 May 2015 17:40:28
Rank: Administration
Build-Diary Medal: Build-Diary Medal of HonourPublisher Medal: Article published MedalActive Service Medal: 500 post active service MedalPurple Medal: Super active service medal for 1000 postsRed Medal: Red MedalTurquoise Medal: Turquoise Medal for model making know-how contribution
Groups:

Joined: 08/03/2010
Posts: 19,138
Points: 53,391
Location: UK
Stage 53 - Contains base panel 7, right & left exhaust manifold joints and screws.

You will need: Engine block (Stage 52), Base frame assembly (Stage 52), Base frame 3 (Stage 52), 4x7mm screws with washers x4 (Stage 52), Joint C (Stage 52), Joint D (Stage 52) and a brass threaded knob (Stage 52).

Take the engine and press-fit the right and left exhaust manifold joints in place into the exhaust outlets on the front of the engine.

This assembly stage for the model is now complete. Store the engine safely until it’s needed again, and store any remaining parts in a labelled bag.

Display base assembly 3

Align the hole of joint C with the corresponding holes in base frame 3 (both from Stage 52). Lightly tighten a 4x7mm screw into each of the aligned holes.

Place joint D at the end of base frame 3, aligning the holes of both. Make sure the notch of joint D is facing downwards. Hold joint D in place, with the hole aligned with the one in base frame 3, and one of the brass threaded knobs (Stage 52) into the aligned holes. Turn the knob into the holes, but stop before joint D is held tightly in place, as it needs to be able to move.

Place the angled end of base frame 3 up against the display base assembly from Stage 52. Align the holes in joint E with the holes in base frame 3. Base frame 5 and base frame 3 should be positioned at a right angle, then tighten a 4x7mm screw into both holes of joint E.

Now take base panel 7, one side has stepped edges, this will be the top side when the base is complete.
Hold base panel 7 so that its stepped edges are underneath it and the two screw holes are visible and slide it into the base frame assembly, and push the base panel along the grooves to the back of the base frame assembly. Turn the assembly over, and push the sides and back tightly up against base frame 7 to ensure that all the parts are fitting together correctly. Then Fully tighten the screws to lock this end of the base frame assembly.

Now tighten a 4x7mm screw into the hole in joint C, then tighten a 4x7mm screw into the hole in joint B, making sure that it is correctly aligned with the hole in base panel 7, which is below it.

This stage of the display base assembly is now complete. Carefully store this half of the display base until it is needed.
Tomick attached the following image(s):
S53-1.JPG
S53-2.JPG
S53-3.JPG
S53-4.JPG
S53-5.JPG
S53-6.JPG
S53-7.JPG
S53-8.JPG
S53-9.JPG
S53-10.JPG
Tomick
#7 Posted : 22 May 2015 17:44:48
Rank: Administration
Build-Diary Medal: Build-Diary Medal of HonourPublisher Medal: Article published MedalActive Service Medal: 500 post active service MedalPurple Medal: Super active service medal for 1000 postsRed Medal: Red MedalTurquoise Medal: Turquoise Medal for model making know-how contribution
Groups:

Joined: 08/03/2010
Posts: 19,138
Points: 53,391
Location: UK
Stage 54 - Contains base frame 2, joints E & A, base frame peg, oil filller cap, left & right frame protectors, left & right fuel tank protectors, ignition switch & key and screws.

You will need: Front fork assembly, frame (Stage 39), LED Tester (Stage 47), rear subframe and the engine block.

Align the projection on the underside of the oil cap with the matching hole in the engine, then push the cap into the hole.

Locate the two indicated holes in the left-hand side of the frame Then align the two pins of the left frame protector and push it in place. then turn the frame around to fit the right frame protector.

Take the rear subframe, make sure that the battery box has batteries in it, and then plug the black connector into the black socket on the LED tester (Stage 47). Take the ignition switch and insert its connector (white) into the green socket on the LED tester.
Take the ignition key, and insert the tip into the ignition switch, the LED on the tester should not light up at this point. Now insert the ignition key into the switch as far as it can go, (DO NOT turn the key, it is only intended to be inserted for on/off control), the LED on the tester should now light up.
Remove the key from the switch, and the switch connector from the LED tester, then disconnect the tester from the battery box. Keep the ignition key safe!

There are two ways to install the ignition switch; you can either install it without removing the top yoke of the front forks, or you can remove the screws from the top yoke. (The switch is more fiddly to fit if you do not remove the top yoke).

Remove the top yoke from the top of the forks, turn the yoke over and place the top of the ignition switch into the switch hole hole, push the ignition switch all the way into the top yoke. Place a 2.3x4mm hex screw on the end of an Allen key, and insert the screw into the hole in the ignition switch plate. Tighten the hex screw into place, until the plate is securely fitted.
Place the top yoke back onto the top of the forks, hold the top yoke in place on top of the forks, with the ignition switch at the front, the refit the yoke screws.

This stage is now complete. Carefully store all the assemblies you’ve worked on, along with any unused parts, until they are needed.

This complete Pack 16.
Tomick attached the following image(s):
S54-1.JPG
S54-2.JPG
S54-3.JPG
S54-4.JPG
S54-5.JPG
S54-6.JPG
S54-7.JPG
S54-8.JPG
S54-9.JPG
S54-10.JPG
S54-11.JPG
S54-12.JPG
S54-13.JPG
S54-14.JPG
Users browsing this topic
Guest
Forum Jump  
You cannot post new topics in this forum.
You cannot reply to topics in this forum.
You cannot delete your posts in this forum.
You cannot edit your posts in this forum.
You cannot create polls in this forum.
You cannot vote in polls in this forum.

Powered by YAF | YAF © 2003-2009, Yet Another Forum.NET
This page was generated in 0.196 seconds.
DeAgostini