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Official HMS Victory Build Diary Issue 31 - 35 Options
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#1 Posted : 14 October 2010 15:29:36
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Mark Adams
Tomick
#2 Posted : 28 October 2010 10:57:05

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Issue 31 contains more planking/pins, and has instruction for the upper planking of the hull which covers Victory's Poop, Quarterdeck, Waist and Forecastle, and how to adjust the height of the planking on the Bulwarks.

When you add the final layers, you will be checking and if necessary adjusting the height of the bulwarks. You will be cutting various short lengths of planking and it pays to keep all the larger offcuts, these pieces will be useful for filling in the smaller areas when planking the lower part of the hull, the process is the same on both sides of the hull.

Start by adding two more layers of planking at the bow, measure a point 142mm back from the forward bulkhead and make a mark on the top plank, then cut a plank to reach from the mark so that it overhangs the forward bulkhead by a few millimetres.
If there is too little of the frames projecting above this plank to add another, taper this plank to 3mm at the bow end, otherwise taper it to the same amount as the planks below it.
Glue and pin the plank in place and use masking tape to hold the plank in position at the rear where there is no frame to pin to, then cut a second plank to the same length, and glue/pin into position.

Make a mark 210mm back from the ends of the planks you have just laid, cut a plank to fit from the mark to the centre of frame 26, and glue/pin into position.
Then fit another plank from frame 26 to the stern of the model, use the stern template as a guide to cut off the end of the plank that overhangs the stern.

Fit another plank from frame 25 to the stern, where depending on the tapering of the planks below, this will probably need to go to the extended section of the template. If even part of the plank reaches this length do not cut it to the shorter part of the template. Glue/pin his plank, the aft section can be held with masking tape.

Complete the third row of planking stretching from the marked point to the stern, with two lengths of planking joining at frame 24.

Now draw a pencil mark 158mm from the front of the planks you have just laid, and measure a plank from the mark to the stern, again use the template to ensure the plank is cut to the correct length.

Adjusting the height of the Bulwarks

Check the height of the completed planking around the forecastle and quarter deck, if necessary you may need to add extra strips to ensure that the planking finishes at the correct level, (don't worry if any bulwarks are higher than quoted, they are sanded to the exact size later, after the internal planking is added).

Measure from the upper side of the foremost deck support bracket to the top of the planking that forms the bulwarks. This distance should be more than 14mm.

If the bulwark is not high enough, you can correct it by adding a thin strip of plank on top.

Now check the height of the planking between frames 17 to 21. The planks should be level with, or higher than the pencil marks you made at issue 28 step 8. If the planks are not high enough, cut a 210mm strip of plank in half lengthways and glue this to the top of the planks.

Now measure the height of the bulwarks at frame 22, it should be at least 19mm above the top deck support bracket, use the same process to raise the height of the bulwark if necessary.

Don't be concerned about the height of the highest section of planking at the stern, this will be extended later in the series.

It is a good idea to protect the stern overhang from breakage, cut a block of expanded polystyrene to fit tightly between the protruding planks and tape in place with masking tape.



Issue 32 contains planks/pins, and has instruction for the start of the planking of the lower hull, starting at the Bow.

Issue 33 contains planks/pins, and continue's the lower hull planking at the stern, a light-coloured wood filler will be required such as 'Ronseal multi purpose wood filler'.
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Tomick
#3 Posted : 04 November 2010 12:03:41

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With the planking above the waterline in place, its time to plank the lower hull, which involves much tighter curves, but before you start, let’s look at the basic principles....

So far, you have been laying planks more or less parallel, even around the curve of the bows. Any slight gaps were easily adjusted by tapering the planks a little and chamfering their edges.
On the lower hull, the frames of the bows and stern form complex curves that can’t be covered with parallel planking. Instead, each plank has to be shaped to fit its neighbours. This is not difficult, so long as you take your time to fit each individual plank.

Basic concepts
Most importantly, your planking pattern will not be exactly the same as the one in
the steps or my diary build. This is because numerous small differences will make each model unique.
Do not try to replicate the planking in the photos, but use the techniques shown in the magazine to fit your planks to your own model.
Plank evenly, on both sides of the model, the steps only show one side of the hull, but, as before, you should repeat each operation on both sides of the model, (planking one side of a hull may cause it to twist from the force of the planks).

The bow and stern planks are bent in a tight radius, so choose planks with a straight grain, as they are less likely to splinter or crack. Use less-perfect planks in the middle of the hull, where the bend is minimal.
If you chose a natural wood finish, you may want to stain the lower hull. Ensure
you remove all excess glue from the planks, as glue does not take stain well.

Bending planks
Planks bend best in one plane, although it’s possible to give them a slight twist. Bend the planks to match the hull frames as closely as possible, but resist any temptation to force the planks to bend sideways. Gaps are a natural part of the process of planking the model, and should be dealt with by tapering the planks and fitting ‘droppers’ and ‘stealers’. Above all, do not use pins to force planks into place – this will result in strained glue joints that are liable to break easily.


Tapering planks
Take your time to taper each plank so that it fits neatly against the plank above it, and so that it lays flat on all the frames. One of the most common mistakes made
is not tapering planks enough. This can lead to ‘clinkering’, where the lower edge sticks out and does not sit against the frame. Only taper the top edge of the plank.
Leave the bottom edge straight as this will make it easier to fit the adjacent plank. Where possible, you can get a more accurate fit if you taper a plank before you cut it to the exact length. Do not reduce a plank to less than half its width, this leads to pointed ends that are hard to fix securely and look unrealistic.


Joints between planks
Stagger the plank joints so that adjacent planks do not start on the same frame. We
recommend staggering the joints between frames 18, 17 and 16 at the bow, and 25, 24
and 23 at the stern (repeating these joint positions on each three layers).
Don’t forget to chamfer the sides of each plank so that you don’t get gaps between
them due to the curve of the hull. Remember to apply glue to the edges of each plank as well as the frames and to remove any excess glue as you go, to
prevent it from marring the finish later on.

Dropper planks
The curves of Victory’s bow and stern mean that the ends of the planks naturally want to overlap, unless they taper to a point, which is not authentic. To overcome this, use ‘dropper planks’. This is where two planks are tapered as far as possible but stop short of the bow or stern, with a single filler piece (the dropper plank) continuing from this point, this is explained in detail on pages 12-13 of issue 32.


Stealers
The shape of the lower half of the stern means that planks will naturally want to
spread, leaving gaps. A stealer is a piece of plank specially shaped to fill these gaps. The magazine will explain how to fit a stealer when you come to planking the stern.


Tomick
#4 Posted : 04 November 2010 12:58:16

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Issue 32 contains planks/pins, and has instruction for the start of the planking of the lower hull starting at the Bow.

Start by adding 4 layers at the bow, making the joints fall at frames 18,17,16 then 18 again. The first three layers continue down the sides of the hull, with the planks extending back to frames 25,24 and 23, remember to plank evenly both sides of the hull.

Before you start, test-fit some lengths of planking over the hull to check you have faired the frames adequately and that there won't be any bumps or hollows. if there are high spots you can carefully sand them a little more, if you have accidentally sanded off too moved, you may need to build up a frame in order for the planks to curve and flow smoothly, and be fully supported. Information of how to build up frames is noted within 'troubleshooter' on page 10.

Before starting, it is a good idea to protect the exposed corners of the upper deck planks to protect them from damage whilst working on the underside of the hull, apply a few layers of masking tape or scrap card to the corners.

Remember that your planking pattern may not be the same as the one shown in the steps or my diary build, this is because numerous small differences will make each model unique. Do not try and replicate the planking in the photos, but use the techniques shown in the magazine to fit your planks to your model.


Planking the bow -

Trim the first plank to run between frames 18 and 25, glue/pin into place.

Then bend a plank to the curve of the bow, hold one end in line with the plank you have just laid and the other end flush with the planks at the bow, ensuring that it is in contact with the frames. The curve of the hull means that there will be a small gap between the new plank and the existing ones, make a mark where the gap is widest, then draw a taper from the mark to the bow. The size of the gap indicates how much you need to taper, e.g. if the gap was 2mm then taper the plank by 2mm, Then glue/pin the plank into position and trim the end of the plank so that it stops at the edge of the false keel.

If you bend the next plank and try it in position, you will almost certainly find the gap is over half a planks width, which indicates that a dropper plank is required. in the unlikely event that your planking is different and the gap is smaller, you only need to taper the plank as previously and not fit a dropper.

The fitting of dropper planks is carefully covered on pages 12 and 13, continue to fit the next layer of planking between frames 17-24, then 16-23 and 18-25.


Issue 33 contains planks/pins, and continue's the lower hull planking at the stern. (A light-coloured wood filler will be required such as 'Ronseal multi purpose wood filler').

Issue 34 contains gun/entry port lining strips and ladder strips, and has instruction for the lining of both entry ports and the lining of the starboard gun ports.
File Attachment(s):
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Tomick attached the following image(s):
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Tomick
#5 Posted : 11 November 2010 10:18:16

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Issue 33 contains planks/pins, and continue's the lower hull planking at the stern.
A light-coloured wood filler will be required such as 'Ronseal multi-purpose wood filler'.

Continue the lower planking of the hull by extending the four layers of planking towards the stern and around the transom.

It is particularly important to fit the first plank well, as it forms a base for all others. This process can be quite difficult, take your time and check the fit frequently.

Start by filling the small gap between the side planks and the point where the planking under the gallery support meets the transom, fill the area with a light-coloured wood filler and sand smooth.

The process for shaping and curving the first plank is explained in great detail within the steps, the process involves chamfering, curving and twisting of the plank for it to turn the compound curve of the transom, use several light bends to reach the right radius, do not try to bend the plank in one go as it will almost certainly snap, curve the remainder of the plank to match the curve of the hull, once happy with its fit, glue/pin the plank into position, though at the radius (to prevent the plank from splitting), drill a pilot hole for the pin.

Fit another three stern planks following the same process, though the third plank may require tapering, the process for stern plank tapering is explained in great detail on page 13.

For the fourth plank, you will need to add a plank in the middle of the hull from frame 18 to 25 before continuing with the next stern plank.



Issue 34 - Contains gun/entry port lining strips and ladder strips, and has instruction for the lining of both entry ports and the lining of the starboard gun ports.

Issue 35 - Contains more planking/pins and further gun port lining strips, and has instruction for the lining of the port side and stern gun ports.
File Attachment(s):
V33.JPG (931kb) downloaded 387 time(s).
Tomick attached the following image(s):
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Tomick
#6 Posted : 18 November 2010 10:48:19

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Issue 34 - Contains gun/entry port lining strips and ladder strips, and has instruction for the lining of both entry ports and the lining of the starboard gun ports.

Carefully store the ladder side and step strips for future assembly.

The gun and entry ports are each lined with a 'window frame' made up from four pieces of 1.5x4mm wood strip, you should use PVA glue (not superglue) to fix the linings in place.

Lining the entry ports

The side pieces are installed first followed by the upper an lower pieces. Ensure the linings protrude the surface of the hull by 0.5 to 1mm (this will be sanded flush later on in the series), you should line both entry ports.

Lining of the gun ports

Port lining is a laborious task which needs care, you can make the process quicker by fitting the side pieces to all the gun ports first and allowing the glue to dry, then cut and fit all the top and bottom pieces.

The process for lining the gun ports needs to be repeated for each aperture, every port will vary slightly, not only may you have to cut the hole a slightly different size, but the angle of the side of the hull varies from deck to deck, and bow to stern.
The gap between the linings should measure about 9mm, and again ensure that the linings protrude 0.5 to 1mm from the hull surface which will be sanded flush later in the series.
You'll find that the ports at the bow are partially blocked by a bow frame, fit these linings in a similar way to the others, though you'll find that the upper and lower linings will protrude further than the side linings.

The lining of the stern and port side gun ports is carried out at the next issue.

Issue 35 - Contains more planking/pins and more gun port lining strips, and has instruction for the lining of the port side and stern gun ports.

Issue 36 - Contains planking/pins and has instruction which continue's the hull planking and the fitting of the garboard plank.
Tomick attached the following image(s):
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Tomick
#7 Posted : 26 November 2010 10:29:35

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Issue 35 - Contains more planking/pins and further gun port lining strips, and has instruction for the lining of the port side and stern gun ports.

Continue the process of the lining of the gun ports, this time on the port side.

The two stern gun ports are lined in the same manner; other than because of the exposed gallery support within both stern ports, you will find that the upper and lower linings will stand proud of the side linings; both stern ports will eventually be closed ports.


Issue 36 - Contains planking/pins and has instruction which continue's the hull planking and the fitting of the garboard plank.

Issue 37 - Contains more hull planking/pins, and continue's the planking of the hull.

Issue 38 - Contains more hull planking/pins, and continue's the planking of the hull.

Issue 39 - Contains wood strips/pins, real keel strips, curved stem and stern post, and has instruction for the fitting of the real keel/stem and stern post, and the sanding of the hull.

Issue 40 - Contains panels and decks for the Gallery and a 12-pounder gun kit, and has instruction for stage 1 of the gallery build.
Tomick attached the following image(s):
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