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Official Suzuki Hayabusa build diary - Stages 68 - 74 Options
Tomick
#1 Posted : 17 August 2015 11:44:58
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Pack 21 contains Stages 68 - 70

Stage 68 - Contains the display base control panel.

Have ready: Front fork (Stage 61), Steering stem (Stage 61), Nuts (Stage 61), Main frame (Stage 67), Left grip, Grip rubber, Handle end, Clutch lever (Stage 67) and 2x6mm (black) self-tapping screw x1 (Stage 67).

Take the front fork assembly and remove the screw and nut from the damper shaft on the front fork (Stage 61).

Lift the front end of the main frame (Stage 67) and fit the front fork onto it, aglign the holes in the front fork yokes with he hole through the front of the frame, then insert the steering stem (Stage 61) into the hole in the top yoke.
Push the steering stem through the frame and out of the bottom yoke then place the nut (Stage 61) onto the end of the steering stem and tighten the nut onto the end. Its a good idea to apply thread lock fluid onto the screw thread to prevent the nut from coming loose.

Insert the damper shaft into the steering damper case, then replace the screw and nut to secure it in place.

Place the clutch lever (Stage 67) onto the left end of the handlebars and push it onto the end of the handlebar.

Insert the end of the left grip into the grip rubber (Stage 67), aligning the projection and recess, push the grip rubber onto the left grip. Now align the hole in the flat end of the handle end (Stage 67) with the end of the grip. Push the handle end onto the end of the grip then secure the handle end with a 2x6mm (black) self-tapping screw (Stage 67) into the hole in the end of the grip.

Align the hole in the left grip with the end of the handlebar Push the left grip onto the end of the handlebar. You can apply a drop of adhesive to hold it in place if it is loose.

Remove the radiator reservoir tank (Stage 66). Pass the clutch lever hose between the forks, then up and over the front left of the frame. Align the pins on the inside of the end of the clutch lever hose with the two holes in the gear cover. Push the pins on the end of the clutch lever hose fully into place in the gear cover. Fix the radiator reservoir tank back into place.

This completes this stage, the control panel will be used in the next Stage
Tomick attached the following image(s):
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Tomick
#2 Posted : 17 August 2015 11:48:07
Rank: Administration
Build-Diary Medal: Build-Diary Medal of HonourPublisher Medal: Article published MedalActive Service Medal: 500 post active service MedalPurple Medal: Super active service medal for 1000 postsRed Medal: Red MedalTurquoise Medal: Turquoise Medal for model making know-how contribution
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Stage 69 - Contains the front panel back plate, ignition key, volume knob, panel stopper, 2.3x5 self-tapping screws and 2.3x6mm (silver) self-tapping screws.

Have ready: Base frame (Stage 60),,Mount collars × 2 (Stage 58), Front panel (Stage 68), 4x14mm screws with washers x2 (Stage 58), Masking tape or PVC electrical tape.

Slide the insulating sleeves along the cabvles towards the circuit board control panel Stage 68), then tape the cables in place along the circuit board.

Hold the free ends of the cables together and align them with the cutout in the front panel back plate, place the back plate into position, aligning the two screw holes and cable exit hole, with those in the panel. Insert a 2.3x6mm (silver) self-tapping screw into one of the screw holes and lightly tighten, then fit a second 2.3x 6mm (silver) self-tapping screw into the other hole in the back plate, then fully tighten both but do not overtighten.

Pass the front panel cables through the hole in the front of the base frame (Stage 60) and fit panel into place in the base frame.
Place a mount collar (Stage 58) between the holes in the base frame and the front panel back plate, align the collar and the holes, and insert a 4x14mm screw (Stage 58), half-tighten the screw into the base. Repeat for the other hole in the back plate.

Now push the base frame and panel together. If the space between the frame and the front edges of the holes is less than 3mm, then you will need to modify the panel stopper before you can fit it (see Step 17). If the space is less than 3mm, then you should file away one side of the stopper until the pins fit into the holes. Test-fit the stopper in place, file more from the side if necessary. Then align the pins on the stopper with the holes in the panel, insert the panel stopper into the front panel, then tighten the two 4x14mm screws in place.

Turn the volume control all the way to the left. Then fit the volume control knob so that its line is facing towards the bottom left corner. Turn the volume knob slowly from side to side, to check that it rotates smoothly. also test the movement of the switches and sliders on the control panel.

Insert the key into the ignition switch on the front panel and turn it to the right to test.

This stage is now complete, carefully store any remaining parts in a labelled bag. We will continue to work on the display base in the next Stage.

Tomick attached the following image(s):
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Tomick
#3 Posted : 17 August 2015 11:52:37
Rank: Administration
Build-Diary Medal: Build-Diary Medal of HonourPublisher Medal: Article published MedalActive Service Medal: 500 post active service MedalPurple Medal: Super active service medal for 1000 postsRed Medal: Red MedalTurquoise Medal: Turquoise Medal for model making know-how contribution
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Stage 70 - Contains the control circuit board and centre box.

Have ready: Left silencer (Stage 14) and right silencer (Stage 16), Front fork caps x2 (Stage 57), Rear cowl (Stage 67), Main assembly (Stage 68) and base frame (Stage 69), 2.3x6mm (silver) screws x2 (Stage 42)
2.3x5mm hex screws x2 (Stage 55), 4 × 7mm screws with washer x4 (Stage 58).

Align the end of the left downpipe (Stage 14) with the end of the left exhaust pipe. Push the end of the downpipe onto the end of the exhaust pipe.
Now align the end of the left silencer with the downpipe, matching the notches and projections. If the connection is loose, you can apply some adhesive to secure it. Align the hole in the silencer bracket with the hole in the footrest bracket. Then insert the tip of a 2.3x5mm hex screw (Stage 55) into the hole, and tighten the hex screw into the hole with an allen key.

Now fit the right downpipe (Stage 16) onto the end of the right exhaust pipe in the same way.

Tap the two indicated holes in bottom of the frame bridge beneath the rear shock absorber, with either a 2.3mm tap or a 2.3mm self-tapping screw.

Position the bottom cowl (Stage 67) next to frame bridge C, align the two holes in the bottom cowl with those in frame bridge C, then fit two 2.3x6mm (silver) screws (Stage 42) into each hole in the cowl.

Pass the ignition cable between the left fork and the steering stem, pass the cable back and underneath the frame bridges. Turn the front fork all the way to the right, and bring the ignition and clutch cables together. Hold the cables in the position on the frame shown in Step 15, then secure the cables to the inside of the frame with tape, as with previous cables.

Place the front fork caps (Stage 57) on top of the screws, as shown in Step 17.

This assembly stage is now complete. Keep the model to hand, as in the next Stage you will be testing the electronic's.

Take the display base and the centre box. Locate the blue socket on the underside of the centre box and the blue connector of the front panel. Push the blue connector into the blue socket. Then plug the rest of the connectors from the front panel into the corresponding sockets on the centre box. Collect the cables together and wrap some tape around them.

Take the yellow connector from the speaker and locate the yellow socket on the centre box, then insert the yellow connector into the socket.

Turn the box over and place the cables in the cutouts at the sides. Tighten a 4x7mm screw (Stage 58) into each of the four holes in the centre box to secure it to the base.

This stage of display base assembly is now complete. Carefully store the control circuit board in a labelled bag until needed.

Tomick attached the following image(s):
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Tomick
#4 Posted : 24 September 2015 12:13:33
Rank: Administration
Build-Diary Medal: Build-Diary Medal of HonourPublisher Medal: Article published MedalActive Service Medal: 500 post active service MedalPurple Medal: Super active service medal for 1000 postsRed Medal: Red MedalTurquoise Medal: Turquoise Medal for model making know-how contribution
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Pack 22 contains Stages 71 - 74

Stage 71 - Contains the brake lever assembly, right grip, right grip rubber, handle end, throttle cable and 2x5mm screws.

Have ready: Ignition Key (Stage 54), Instrument panel (64), Front cowl (Stage 67), Ignition key (Stage 69), Main frame and base frame (Stage 70), Control board (Stage 70), 2x6mm self-tapping screws x2 (Stage 39) 2x6mm self-tapping screw (black) x1 (Stage 67). You will also need two 5cm high boxes and a foam sheet.

Tap the hole in the end of the projection on the instrument panel (Stage 64) with a 2.3mm tap or screw.

Take the control board (Stage 70). Identify the colours and numbers of pins of each of the sockets and their corresponding connectors. Take the green 2-pin connector from towards the rear of the model, and push it into the green 2-pin socket on the control board. Then push the rest of the 2-pin connectors into their corresponding sockets.

The control board will be fitted inside the rear subframe. Check that the control board fits into the area shown, and carefully snip away any parts of the subframe that may interfere with the connector cables or the
control board.

Take the display base (Stage 70) and place a box, about 5cm in height on each side of the battery box.

Place the wheels of the model onto the plastic boxes, with the rear wheel on the paddock stand, as shown in the instructions. Insert the ignition key (Stage 54) into the ignition switch.

Take the front cowl assembly (Stage 67). Cut away the two circled projections on the green connector. Then place the front cowl and instrument panel onto a foam near the main assembly in the display base. Insert the green 4-pin connector from the cowl into the corresponding socket on the control board. Insert the white 4-pin connector from the front cowl into the white socket. Finally, insert the white 7-pin connector into the remaining socket on the board.

If you have not already done so, insert three AAA batteries into the battery box in the display base. Insert the ignition key (Stage 69) into the switch on the front panel of the display base.
Turn the key to the right. The instrument panel, headlight (low beam) and tail light should illuminate. If the engine sound is too quiet, then turn the volume knob to the right.

Move the indicator slider to the left. The front and rear left indicators should flash, and the left indicator light on the instrument panel should illuminate. Move the slider to the right. The front and rear right indicators should flash and the right indicator light on the instrument panel should illuminate. Move the slider back to the neutral point in the middle.

Move the headlight slider to the right. The headlight should change from low beam to high beam.

Press down on the rear brake pedal. The rear brake light should come on.

Press the switch beneath the headlight slide switch. The engine starting sound should play, followed by the idling sound. Press it again to rev the engine, and then let it idle until you switch the power off. If the sound is low, turn the volume knob to the right to increase the volume. The sound will continue until you turn the key to the left, cutting the power.

Press the switch beneath the indicator slide switch, which will sound the horn.

Now remove the key from the ignition in the display base and remove the model from the display base.

Unplug the three connectors from the front cowl and instrument panel. Then place the control board into the recessed area in the subframe. Tighten a 2x6mm self-tapping screw (Stage 39) into the hole at the front of the control board, which should be aligned with the mounting post beneath. Tighten the second 2x6mm self-tapping screw (Stage 39) into the hole at the rear of the control board.

Insert the end of the right grip into the grip rubber, aligning the projection and the recess. Then push the grip rubber onto the grip. Push the handle end onto the end of the grip. Then tighten a 2x6mm (black) self-tapping screw (Stage 67) into the hole in the end of the grip.
Align the hole in the brake lever assembly with the end of the handlebar and push the brake lever assembly onto the end of the handlebar.
Pass the brake hose underneath the handlebar and back between the forks. Align the fixed pin at the junction of the two parts of the hose with the hole in the rear of the right front brake caliper and push the pin into the caliper.
Insert the upper movable pin on the hose, the one now nearest to the brake caliper, into the hole in the right-hand side of the front fender. Pass the free end of the hose over the Push the pin into the hole in the caliper.
front fender, behind the forks, and insert the second movable pin into the hole in the left-hand side of the front fender.
Align the end of the brake hose with the hole in the left front brake caliper and push the pin into the hole in the caliper. Then align the end of the right grip with the end of the handlebar and push the grip onto the end of the bar.

This stage is now complete. Store any unused parts in a labelled bag for future stages.

Note; If any of the electrics tested in this stage don’t work, go back and look at the relevant assembly stages to check the connections and parts.

Tomick attached the following image(s):
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Tomick
#5 Posted : 24 September 2015 12:18:25
Rank: Administration
Build-Diary Medal: Build-Diary Medal of HonourPublisher Medal: Article published MedalActive Service Medal: 500 post active service MedalPurple Medal: Super active service medal for 1000 postsRed Medal: Red MedalTurquoise Medal: Turquoise Medal for model making know-how contribution
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Joined: 08/03/2010
Posts: 19,138
Points: 53,391
Location: UK
Stage 72 - Contains the left mirror stay, left mirror housing, mirror, 2.3x5mm self-tapping screws, 2.3x6mm (silver) self-tapping screws and 2.3x5mm hex screws.

Have ready: Front cowl (Stage 71) & Instrument panel (Stage 71).

Place a 2.3x5mm screw into the hole in the left mirror stay, tighten the screw halfway into the hole, then remove it.

Insert the 2.3x5mm self-tapping screw into the hole inside the left mirror housing. The hole in the housing is larger than the shaft of the screw. Hold the screw in place and turn the housing around. Adjust the position of the screw so that it is centred in the hole, then align the end of the mirror stay with the hole, positioning the projection with the cut-out. and push the screw into the hole in the end of the stay. Hold the assembly together and tighten the screw into the end of the stay to close up the gap between the housing and the stay.

Peel away the protective backing on the mirror, place the adhesive side of the mirror into the recessed lip in the housing, then lightly but firmly push the mirror into place.

Insert the pin at the base of the mirror stay into the hole in the left side of the front cowl, and the screw hole in the base with the hole in the cowl. When the mirror is in place, hold it in position with masking tape.

Align the holes in the end of the instrument panel frame with the pin from the mirror and the hole in the cowl. Push the hole onto the pin while keeping the other hole aligned. Then tighten a 2.3x6mm (silver) self-tapping screw into the aligned holes of the frame, cowl and mirror stay.

Tape the other side of the frame to the cowl to hold it temporarily in place.

This stage is now complete. The right mirror will be assembled in the following stage.
Tomick attached the following image(s):
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Tomick
#6 Posted : 24 September 2015 12:20:55
Rank: Administration
Build-Diary Medal: Build-Diary Medal of HonourPublisher Medal: Article published MedalActive Service Medal: 500 post active service MedalPurple Medal: Super active service medal for 1000 postsRed Medal: Red MedalTurquoise Medal: Turquoise Medal for model making know-how contribution
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Joined: 08/03/2010
Posts: 19,138
Points: 53,391
Location: UK
Stage 73 - Contains the right mirror stay, right mirror housing and mirror.

Have ready: Front cowl (Stage 72), 2.3x5mm self-tapping screw (Stage 72), 2.3x6mm (silver) self-tapping screw (Stage 72).

Place the 2.3x5mm self-tapping screw (Stage 72) into the hole in the end of the right mirror stay. Tighten the screw halfway into the hole, then remove it.

Locate the hole in the right mirror housing and have the 2.3x5mm self-tapping screw ready. Insert the screw into the hole, then turn the housing around, and hold the screw so that it is centred in the hole. Align the end of the mirror stay with the hole, positioning the projection with the cut-out, then push the screw into the hole in the end of the stay. Hold the assembly together and tighten the screw into the end of the stay to close up the gap between the housing and the stay.

Peel away the protective backing on the mirror, place the adhesive side of the mirror into the recessed lip in the housing, then lightly but firmly push the mirror into place.

Insert the pin at the base of the mirror stay into the hole in the right side of the front cowl, and the screw hole in the base with the hole in the cowl. Make sure that the hole in the mirror stay is aligned with the holes in the cowl and the end of the instrument panel frame.
Tighten a 2.3x6mm (silver) self-tapping screw (Stage 72) into the hole in the instrument panel frame to fix the parts together.

This stage is now complete. Store it until Stage 75, when you will mount it onto the frame.
Tomick attached the following image(s):
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Tomick
#7 Posted : 24 September 2015 12:24:58
Rank: Administration
Build-Diary Medal: Build-Diary Medal of HonourPublisher Medal: Article published MedalActive Service Medal: 500 post active service MedalPurple Medal: Super active service medal for 1000 postsRed Medal: Red MedalTurquoise Medal: Turquoise Medal for model making know-how contribution
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Joined: 08/03/2010
Posts: 19,138
Points: 53,391
Location: UK
Stage 74 - Contains the left side cowl, 2x5mm hex self-tapping screws and 2.3x5mm self-tapping screws.

Have ready: Pivot shaft head left (Stage 32), Pivot shaft head right (Stage 37), Right main frame decal (Stage 37), Throttle body (Stage 52), Main assembly (Stage 71), Throttle cable (Stage 71), Right grip (Stage 71), LED tester (Stage 66), Base frame (Stage 71) and Ignition keys (Stage 71).

Final electrical test.

Take the LED tester (Stage 66) and cut the green socket, as shown in the step A photo (open out both sides of the green socket).

Take the display base. Place three AAA batteries into the battery compartment and secure the lid. Release the centre box from the base and turn it over. Turn the volume control halfway to the right, insert the key and turn it to the ‘on’ position. The engine starting sound should begin. If it doesn’t; check the speaker connector and socket (yellow).
If there are any problems with a function, always check that the connector is plugged in correctly. You can check any of the parts with the LED tester board, as the LED on the board will illuminate when a working connector is plugged in. Test only the connectors that are shown in Step D.

Plug the power supply connector (black) from the battery box into the black socket on the LED tester board.

Insert the main switch connector (red 2-pin) into the green socket of the LED tester, and then turn the ignition key on the front panel of the display base to the right, into the ‘on’ position. The LED on the tester board should illuminate. If it doesn’t there is a high probability that the main switch isn’t working properly.

Plug the white 3-pin connector at the end of the cable that extends from the front panel into the green socket on the tester board. The middle grey wire and the red wire should be aligned with the pin in the socket, and the other grey wire should be outside the socket.

Move the indicator slider to the right ‘R’. If the LED on the tester board illuminates, then the indicator slider is working. If it doesn’t, then the indicator switch may be faulty.

Plug the red 3-pin connector into the green socket in the same way as you did the white connector, with only the red and middle grey wires in the socket. Press the horn button. If the LED doesn’t illuminate, then the horn may not be working properly.

Prepare the left pivot shaft head (Stage 32). Make sure you don’t select the right pivot shaft head by mistake.
Place three AAA batteries in the battery box of the main assembly. Then press down on the rear brake pedal, which should illuminate the tail light. If the tail light doesn’t illuminate, then there is either a problem with the light itself or with the electrical connection to the pedal. Make sure that the circuits aren’t failing because of poor connections at one or both ends, as this can stop components from working, even though they may not themselves faulty.

this completes the electrical test.

Push the left pivot shaft head onto the left end of the pivot shaft. If it falls out of place, apply a small amount of doublesided tape to the inside. Then take the right pivot shaft head (Stage 37) and push it onto the right end of the pivot shaft, again securing it with double-sided tape if necessary.

Remove the right frame decal (Stage 37) from the backing sheet and apply it to the right side of the frame, as shown in Step 4.

Align the D-shaped hole in the throttle cable assembly (Stage 71) with the D-shaped pin on the side of the throttle body (Stage 52) and push the throttle cable assembly onto the throttle body.
Take the three cables that extend forward (see Step 15), and pass them forward over the frame and between the forks. Then push the throttle body into place in the top of the engine.

Locate the square hole in the top of the clutch cover and locate the shorter of the two cables that extend back from the throttle body, and align the square projection in the white moulding at its end with the square hole in the clutch cover, push the projection into the hole.

Take the other cable extending from the throttle body and pass it under the right side of the frame. Insert the D-shaped pin at the end of the cable into the D-shaped hole in the sprocket cover.

Remove the left grip and clutch lever. Collect the three throttle cables and identify the one with a D-shaped pin at its end. Push the D-shaped pin into the corresponding hole in the underside of the clutch lever, then refit the clutch lever and the left grip.

Remove the right grip and insert the end of the two remaining throttle cables into the holes in the underside, as shown in Step 18, then refit the right grip into position.

This stage is now complete. Store any unused parts in a labelled bag.

Tomick attached the following image(s):
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