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Official 3D Printer Build Diary packs 9 & 10 Options
Tomick
#1 Posted : 09 March 2016 10:10:00

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Pack 9 contains Stages 36 - 40

Stage 36 - Contains the top panel, M3 washers and cable ties.

You will need the printer housing and the head block assembly that we last worked on in Stage 31.

With the front of the printer facing you, move the Y-axis head rod so that it aligns with the hole halfway across the left panel of the housing, then push the rod out through the hole, to just under halfway. With the cooling fan on the head block facing the front, slide the Y-axis head rod into the head rod hole in the head block. The nozzle should be pointing down. Push the head rod back into the slider on the right.

Now push the X-axis head rod through the slider and out of the hole in the rear of the housing. Move the head block to the centre and push the X-axis head rod through the head rod hole in the top of the head block. Push the end of the X-axis head rod back into the hole in the slider. Make sure that the ends of the head rods do not protrude from the sliders. The ends should be level with the sides of the sliders, Use the 2mm Allen key to tighten (clockwise) all four of the set screws.

The printer head is now assembled into the housing. Store the parts supplied with this stage safely, as they will be used later.
Tomick attached the following image(s):
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Tomick
#2 Posted : 09 March 2016 10:13:22

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Stage 37 - Contains a circuit board, M3 spacers (2mm thick), M3 spacers (3mm thick), M3 screws (16mm), M3 washers and M3 nuts.

Turn the housing so the front is facing you. Move the head to the front left for ease of access to the bottom of the housing.

There are two types of spacer supplied. The 2mm-thick ones have a cut-out on one side. The 3mm-thick ones have cut-outs on two sides.
Put a 2mm spacer over each of the holes numbered 1 to 4 in the positions shown on the bottom of the housing. Put the spacers in positions 2 and 4 as shown so their cut-outs clear any components on the circuit board. Spacers in positions 1 and 3 can be in any orientation.

Put a 3mm-thick spacer on each of the four M3 16mm screws supplied. Insert a screw (with 3mm spacer) into screw hole 3, so the cut-outs on the spacer clear any components on the board. Hold the board as shown and put the USB port through the hole in the housing. Then insert the screw through the 2mm spacer resting on the housing, and through screw hole 3 in the housing. Put the other three screws with spacers through holes 1, 2 and 4.
Check that the spacers are orientated so their cut-outs avoid any components or soldered areas on the top and bottom of the board.

Hold onto the screw heads and the board with one hand to stop the screws coming out while you turn the housing so the right side is uppermost. Put M3 washers and nuts on each of the four screws and finger tighten the nuts.
Turn the housing so that the bottom is facing down and put the last 2mm-thick spacer between the board and the bottom of the housing in the position shown. Make sure the spacer is oriented so its cut-out clears any components or soldered areas.

Turn the housing on its side again and tighten the screws fully, using a Phillips screwdriver and the acrylic spanner supplied with Stage 9. Finally, turn the housing right way up and check that the board is not loose.

The circuit board has been added to the printer housing. Store the assembly carefully and cover it to keep it free of dust.
Tomick attached the following image(s):
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Tomick
#3 Posted : 09 March 2016 10:16:54

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Stage 38 - Contains the Driver board.

Turn the printer housing so the front panel is facing you. You will need the top panel, plus the eight M3 washers and the two cable ties supplied with Stage 36.

Unscrew and remove all eight of the screws show in Step 2 and remove the assembly jig. Keep the jig as it might be needed later. Put an M3 washer on each of the eight screws you have just removed.

Hold the top panel as shown so the two semicircular cut-outs are at the rear and the stepped surface is facing downwards. Align the slots in the top with the tabs and push the tabs through the slots firmly.

Insert the screws into their nuts and, moving from one nut to the other diagonally opposite, tighten them gradually until the panel is firmly attached to the housing.

Measure about 30cm from the head block along the spiral tube and mark the tube with the marker pen.

Now turn the printer housing so the rear is facing you and insert the cable ties into the holes as shown in Step 6, so one tie is above the other.

Look for the mark you made on the spiral tube and align this with the semicircular cut-outs on the rear of the top panel. Use the cable ties to hold the spiral tube to the housing. The ties should have their jagged or toothed sides on the inside. When you’ve tightened the ties, cut off any excess with scissors.

Insert the cables and spiral tube into the housing (through the hole shown in Step 8) next to the noise filter. In a later stage, the spiral tube will be secured on the outside of the housing with cable ties that go through the holes marked out by the thick red lines shown in Step 8.

Unwind the spiral tube from the cables on the inside of the housing to a point about 5cm in from where the cables enter the housing. Cut off the excess spiral tube with scissors.

Cartridge Heater.

The terminals or connectors on the driver board have letter and number codes that tell you what they are for. The terminals labelled D10 are for the cables from the cartridge heater. Unscrew the two screws in the D10 terminals so there are gaps into which the cartridge heater wires can be inserted. If the screwdriver blade is too wide, use a size 0 instead of a size 1.
Make sure the gaps are wide enough so the wires can go in and be gripped by the screw. Ensure the strands of the wires are gathered together (twisted) before you insert them into the terminals.

Now turn the housing so that the front panel is facing you. Pull the two wires from the cartridge heater out of the housing through the hole in the panel. Push the wire of one of the cables into one of the terminals so that it goes all the way in. Tighten the screw in the terminal firmly, holding the wire in position while you do so if necessary. After tightening, give the wire a gentle pull to check that it is not loose. Repeat the process for the other cartridge heater wire.

With the terminals on the right, move the driver board into the housing. Guide in the wires from the cartridge heater so they do not get caught. Align the driver board so the pins on its underside are above the matching sockets on the circuit board. Insert the pins about halfway and check from all sides that they’re going in properly. When pressing the driver board down, try not to touch any components or metal surfaces. Slowly insert the pins, keeping the driver board parallel to the circuit board. Holding the driver board firmly, push the pins all the way into their sockets.
You can check that the pins are all the way by looking from the sides. If they are fully inserted, the pins will not be visible. Check all three sides, not just from the front.

The driver board is now plugged into the circuit board. When you put the printer away, protect it from impacts and dust, perhaps by putting it into a cardboard box.





Tomick attached the following image(s):
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Tomick
#4 Posted : 09 March 2016 10:20:35

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Stage 39 - Contains motor drivers, X-axis motor cable (420mm), Y-axis motor cable (310mm), and cable ties.

Orientate the printer housing so the front is facing you.

In the last stage, you plugged the driver board into the circuit board. Now the motor drivers are plugged into the driver board and the motor cables attached in the positions shown in the Step 2.

Get ready one of the motor drivers. There is a component with a circular structure on the board. This should be on the left. Plug the pins of the motor driver halfway into the sockets for the X-axis motor on the driver board. Keeping the motor driver board parallel with the driver board, push the pins in all the way. When they are no longer visible the board is fully plugged in.

Now plug the driver for the Y-axis motor into the driver board in the same way you did the X-axis driver. Make sure that there is no gap between the X- and Y-axis motor drivers. If there is, unplug the Y-axis driver and move it to the correct position. Also make sure the circular structures are on the left. Note - If they are not correctly positioned, there is a danger of fire during operation of the printer!

Get ready the X-axis motor cable, which is the longer of the two supplied this time. The connectors on each end of the cables are different: the smaller ones plug into the motors and the larger into the driver board. Plug the connector into the socket in the bottom of the X-axis motor (which is mounted on the rear panel of the housing). Hold the connector and not the wires when you plug it in.
If the cable is twisted untwist it by turning the connector. When there are no twists in the cable, plug the pins on the driver board for the X-axis motor (outlined into yellow, above) into the sockets in the connector on the cable’s end. Viewed from the front, the yellow wire should be at the left and the orange at the right.

Now turn the housing so the rear is facing you. Put two cable ties through the holes in the housing, as shown, so that they loosely holds the cables but do not push the toothed tie sections into their heads as
more cables will be added at a later stage.

Now turn the housing so the right side is facing you. Get ready the Y-axis motor cable and hold the cable’s motor end connector as shown so the pins are not visible, and then plug it into the Y-axis motor.

Now turn the housing so the front panel is facing you and untwist the cable if necessary by turning the connector at the driver board end. When the cable is not twisted, plug the pins on the driver board for the Y-axis motor into the sockets in the connector on the end of the cable. When viewed from the front, the yellow wire should be on the left and the orange one on the right.

Now turn the housing so the rear is facing you. Insert cable ties through the holes shown and secure the cables by doing up the ties. Give the cable a bit of slack at its motor end. Trim off the excess sections of the cable ties with scissors.

The motor drivers for the X- and Y-axes have been installed and the cables connected to the X and Y- axis motors have been connected.
Tomick attached the following image(s):
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Tomick
#5 Posted : 09 March 2016 10:22:58

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Stage 40 - Contains the Z-axis motor, M3 screws (10mm), M3 spring washers, M3 (flat) washers and Z-axis motor cable (130mm).

Turn the printer housing so the front is facing you.

Get the Z-axis motor cable supplied and look for the end with the smaller connector. Hold this connector and plug it into the Z-axis motor, as shown above, so that when the motor spindle is uppermost and the plug is at the bottom, the orange wire is on the left and the yellow one on the right.

Put a spring washer, then a flat M3 washer, onto each of the four 10mm M3 screws. The spring washer should be next to the head of the screw.

With the Z-axis motor cable at the front, lift up the left of the housing and position the motor under the Z-axis motor bracket. Thread the motor cable through the gap in the base so it is inside the housing.

Lift the motor up to the bracket and insert the screws into their screw holes in the motor and do up the screws with your fingers. Do not over-tighten the screws holding the Z-axis motor to the bracket. Just make sure that it does not move about when you move the motor shaft up and down or from side to side.

Untwist the cable if necessary. Plug the connector into the pins for the Z axis of the driver board, shown outlined in yellow, above. When viewed from the front, the yellow wire is on the left and the orange on the right.
When you have plugged the Z-axis cables into the driver board, the area around the driver board should look like that shown in the Step 8 photo. Make sure you have the correct cables in the right locations and for all the motor cables, the yellow wires should be on the left when viewed from the front.

This completes this stage of assembly. The Z-axis motor is loosely attached to its bracket. The cable from it is plugged into the driver board.

This completes Pack 9.
Tomick attached the following image(s):
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Tomick
#6 Posted : 20 April 2016 14:29:17

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Pack 10 contains Stages 41 - 45

Stage 41 - Contains motor drivers, feeder motor cable, cable ties and a USB cable.

Get ready the printer housing and turn it so that the front is facing you. Then take a look at the driver
board and the diagram, make sure you, know where to plug in the Z-axis motor driver and the feeder motor driver. Locate the feeder motor cable plug.

Plug one of the motors drivers into the position for the Z-axis motor driver. Make sure that the circular structure on the driver is aligned. Hold the driver parallel to the driver board while you plug it in slowly and firmly until it is in all the way.
Now plug the other motor driver into the position for the feeder motor driver. Again, press firmly while holding it parallel to the driver board until it is fully inserted.

With a marker pen, make a mark on the feeder motor cable 12cm in from the end of the cable, measuring from the smaller (motor end) connector.

Turn the housing so the rear panel is facing you. Put a cable tie through each of the four sets of holes outlined in the instructions. Align the tie at the top right with the mark on the feeder motor cable and, with the motor end socket on the right, tighten the cable tie around the cable. Trim off the excess cable tie with scissors.
At the other three cable tie positions, use the cable ties to secure the feeder motor cable and the spiral tube to the housing. When you’ve done up each cable tie, trim off the excess with scissors.

Pass the feeder motor cable through the hole in the casing to the left of the noise filter.

Turn the housing so the front is facing you. Untwist the feeder motor cable you’ve just passed into the housing (if necessary) and plug the connector into the pins on the motor board for the feeder motor cable.

The Pack 10 magazine contains information of how to download and install the software that we need to control the printer. We will also see how to set up the software so you can print out your 3D files successfully. If using Windows, its a good idea to upgrade to the latest Windows 10 software.
The idbox user information is provided in User Guide Section 1on pages 255-262. Download, install and configure Repetier-Host for the idbox onto your computer.

Now, with the right side of the printer facing you, plug the B-type connector of the USB cable into the USB port on the circuit board. With your computer turned on, plug the A-type USB connector into a USB port on the computer (must be USB type 2).

The circuit board is powered via the USB cable by your computer. When you connect the USB cable to your computer you should see a green light come on on the circuit board. Check this, then remove the USB cable and keep it safe, and turn off the computer.

User Guide 2 is provided in the Pack 11 magazine. In the second part of the User Guide, we will test and calibrate the idbox. We check that the axes function correctly, apply grease where appropriate and then make sure the head moves through its full range of movements and at the correct speed. Then, make sure the table moves up and down properly, and that the hot end is working. Finally, calibrate and level the table.
Tomick attached the following image(s):
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Tomick
#7 Posted : 20 April 2016 14:33:12

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Stage 42 - Contains the power supply, power lines, earth wire, power supply wires for the fans and M3 truss head screws.

Note: There is a switch on the side of the power supply where you can select the input voltage to the power supply.

For the United Kingdom, make sure it is switched to 230V and not 115V.

For the USA, make sure it is switched to 115V and not 230V.

There are nine screw terminals on the end of the power supply. Use a size 2 Phillips screwdriver to loosen them all before you start attaching cables.

Plug the Y-shaped end of one of the yellow power lines into the terminal on the left with the letter L above it. Tighten the screw of the terminal with the screwdriver.

Plug the second of the two yellow power lines into the terminal with the letter N above it and tighten the screw.

Plug the green Earth cable into the terminal with the Earth symbol above it and tighten the screw.

Plug the black wire for the fan power supply line into the fourth terminal from the left, which has COM above it. Put the pink wire into the seventh terminal, which has +V above it. Tighten the screws.

Turn the housing so its left side is facing you. Place the power supply as shown, so it is to the right of the housing. Pass the rightmost of the two thick pink power cables from the driver board through the opening in the front panel of the housing and plug it into the rightmost terminal of the power supply, which has +V above it, and tighten the screw.
Pass the second thick pink cable from the driver board through the hole in the front panel and plug it into the power supply’s eighth terminal from the left, which has a +V above it, and tighten the screw.

Take the rightmost of the two thick black cables from the driver board and plug it into the sixth from the left of the power supply’s terminals, which has COM above it, and tighten the screw.

Take the other thick black cable from the driver board and plug it into the fifth from the left of the power supply’s terminals, which has COM above it, and tighten the screw.

It is very important that the wires connected to the power supply are in the correct terminals. Check particularly that the pink and black wires are in the correct positions as shown in the instructions.

Pass the power supply through the front panel (you’ll have to angle it to get it through). Make sure the cables do not go under the power supply, and beware of damaging the housing while you manoeuvre the power supply.
With the front panel facing you, rotate the housing by 90 degrees so it lies on its right panel. Support the power supply while you do this.

Hold the power supply in position with one hand so that the four screw holes in its underside align with the screw holes in the bottom panel (ringed in red). Insert an 8mm M3 truss head screw into each of the screw holes and screw them in with your fingers. Tighten all four of the screws with a size 1 Phillips screwdriver.

Turn the housing so its base is back on your work surface. Plug the two yellow power supply lines as shown above onto the two lower terminals of the noise filter, which is at the rear left of the housing. Push them all the way on, firmly yet gently.

Plug the connector of the green Earth wire onto the central, upper metal pin on the noise filter.

Tuck the four thick power cables (two black, two pink) into the bottom of the housing. If you unplug any of the connectors from the driver board while you do this, make sure you get them back into the correct locations.

Take the connector for one branch of the fan power supply wires, and plug it into the connector for the fan at the lower back right of the housing. (The connector leading to the fan can be connected to either branch.)

Plug the connector for the fan in the printer head into the connector on the other branch of the power supply wires.

In the next stage, more cables are added, and the wiring is tidied up with cable ties.



Tomick attached the following image(s):
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Tomick
#8 Posted : 20 April 2016 14:36:06

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Stage 43 - Contains limit switch cables, cable ties, brackets, M3 truss head screws (14mm), M3 washers and M3 nuts.

Note: There is a correction in the Step 6 photo in the Stage 43 assembly guide, the motor cables of the X- and Y-axes are shown plugged into each other’s sockets. The proper positions for the cables are shown below. Instructions for fitting the cables correctly are given in Assembly Guide Stage 39.

Get ready the printer housing and retrieve the limit switch cable that was supplied with Stage 3.

Connect the X-axis limit switch first. Turn the cable’s connector so that you can see the side where the metal parts show. Plug it in carefully from below until just the bases of the switch’s pins are visible.

Now connect the Z-axis limit switch. Carefully plug the pins on the switch into the sockets on the connector, making sure the metal parts of the connector are visible.

Turn the printer housing so its left side is facing you, and plug in the Y-axis limit switch cable connector from below. Again, put in the connector so its metal parts are showing.

Turn the printer housing so the front panel is facing you and find the location of the pins for the limit switch cables.

Untwist the cable from the X-axis limit switch, if necessary, and plug the connector into the first column of pins on the right. The side of the connector where the metal parts are visible should be facing to the left.

Untwist the cable from the Y-axis limit switch if necessary, and plug the connector into the third column of pins from the right. The side of the connector where the metal parts are visible should be facing to the left.

Untwist the cable from the Z-axis limit switch, if necessary, and plug the connector into the sixth column of pins from the right. The side of the connector where the metal metal parts are visible should be facing to the left.

Turn the housing so its rear panel is facing you. Pass cable ties through the two sets of holes and do up the ties to secure the cables for the X-axis limit switch. Trim the excess from the cable ties with scissors.

Put the X-axis limit switch cable together with the X-axis motor cable and bind them to the housing with the upper cable tie inserted (but not tightened) in Stage 39.

Add the Z-axis limit switch cable to the bundle of the X-axis limit switch and motor cables at the lower cable tie (Stage 39), and do it up.

Trim off the excess from the straps of the ties and turn the housing so the front is facing you so you see how the cables have been fixed in place.

Turn the housing so its right panel is facing you. Pass cable ties through the two sets of holes, and do up the ties to secure the cables for the Y-axis limit switch, as shown above. Trim off the excess from the cable ties. Then move the Y-axis limit switch cable into the gap between the power supply and the housing.

The thermistor, which is in the head block, has a cable that needs to be connected to the driver board. Locate the thermistor cable, which emerges from the spiral wrap that enters the rear of the housing.

The pins on the driver board for the thermistor are the two on the right (with T0 by them) in the row of six pins in front of the Z-axis motor connector. The thermistor connector can be plugged in either way.

Gather together the cables at the bottom of the housing. Start by gathering together the cooling fan cable and the X-axis and feeder motor cables. Make loops in the cables if necessary to make the bundle neater, then bind them together with a cable tie, trimming the excess with scissors.

Next, gather the Z- and X-axis limit switch and the thermistor cables into a neat bundle and bind them with a cable tie. Note that the Y-axis limit switch, the Y-axis motor, the power supply and the cartridge heater cables are not held together.

Carefully store the brackets, washers, nuts and truss head screws supplied but not used with this stage somewhere safe.
Tomick attached the following image(s):
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Tomick
#9 Posted : 20 April 2016 14:39:31

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Stage 44 - Contains a linear bush, M3 cap bolts (15mm), M3 spring washers, M3 flat washers, M3 nuts and an: Allen key (50 x 2.5mm).

You will need the housing and the table that you last worked on in Stage 11. Also the two truss head screws, washers, nuts and brackets from Stage 43. Peel the protective coverings off both sides of the brackets.
Put an M3 flat washer on each of the 14mm M3 truss head screws. And put a nut into each of the nut slots in the brackets. You can, if you wish, fix the nuts in place with a drop of PVA glue to prevent them falling out.

Insert the tab of one of the brackets into the slot in the left of the housing, then screw the 14mm truss head screw (with washer) into the nut and tighten it with a size 1 Phillips screwdriver. Repeat the process for the other bracket on the right of the housing.

With the dog (protective metal plate) at the top left, locate the circular hole surrounded by four screw holes in the table base where the linear bush is to be attached. Put the shaft of the bush through the hole and put a 15mm M3 cap bolt through each of the screw holes in the bush. Hold the bolts in position and turn the table over.
Put an M3 flat washer, then an M3 spring washer over the shafts of each of the bolts and then screw an M3 nut onto each bolt with your fingers. Turn the table again and, holding the nuts with your fingers, tighten each of the cap head bolts with the 50 x 2.5mm Allen key.

Stage complete.
Tomick attached the following image(s):
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Tomick
#10 Posted : 20 April 2016 14:42:31

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Stage 45 - Contains a linear bush, M3 cap bolts (15mm), M3 spring washers, M3 flat washers and M3 nuts.

Get ready the table you worked on in Stage 44.

With the dog at the top left, locate the circular hole surrounded by four screw holes at the top left of the table base where the second linear bush is to be added. Put the shaft of the bush through the hole and put a 15mm M3 cap bolt through each of the screw holes in the bush. Hold the bolts in position and turn the table over. Put an M3 flat washer and then an M3 spring washer over the shafts of each of the bolts, then screw an M3 nut onto each of the four bolts with your fingers.

Turn the table and, holding each of the nuts with your fingers, tighten the cap head bolts in turn with the 50x2.5mm Allen key.

Because it is difficult to adjust the dog after the table has been assembled into the housing, now is the time to check its alignment. Ensure that the underside is aligned with the table and tighten the screw to secure it in position.

The second linear bush has been added to the table. Put the table somewhere safe until it is time to add it to the housing.

This completes the assembly of Pack 10.
Tomick attached the following image(s):
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