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Baz's DC-3 Options
Bazholding
#1 Posted : 10 March 2016 19:39:10

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Hi Everybody

Thought I would put on some of my slow progress on the DC-3

I've never painted model kits before so I'm learning as I go, I've also never used the filler before and after reading through forums I decided to go with the white milliput. its a lot stiffer than I thought it would be.

I have painted the seats but I'm looking through forums to learn how to make it look like leather.

Thanks for looking









Current builds: HMS Victory, hachette black pearl, DC-3, R2-D2, Millennium Falcon
davetwin
#2 Posted : 10 March 2016 21:00:25

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Looking good Baz. Milliput is amazing stuff, it tries hard as rock, can be sculpted like clay while its wet and will even dry under water Blink I love the stuff BigGrin
delboy271155
#3 Posted : 10 March 2016 21:04:08

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Hi Baz, BigGrin

Good to see a DC3 build in a diary. Cool

Blue medal awarded for your diary start. Love

Regards
delboy271155
Derek
COME BACK GUY FAWKES "YOUR COUNTRY NEEDS YOU"






Bazholding
#4 Posted : 10 March 2016 22:18:53

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Thanks for the medal, I've been watching the forums for years so thought it was time to start taking part
Current builds: HMS Victory, hachette black pearl, DC-3, R2-D2, Millennium Falcon
Bazholding
#5 Posted : 13 March 2016 19:31:56

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not much progress this weekend as i've been working on the car.

plenty of sanding and a little painting but not sure whats happened with the cockpit roof. the airframe came out fine but the cockpit roof has loads of little bumps on it.

just new to using an air brush





Current builds: HMS Victory, hachette black pearl, DC-3, R2-D2, Millennium Falcon
Gandale
#6 Posted : 14 March 2016 00:09:59

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Looking good Baz, great to see you producing a diary for this one.... You can count me in as one of your follower.....Cool Cool .. Look forward to seeing this one progressing......Cool Cool

Regards

Alan
Bazholding
#7 Posted : 14 March 2016 21:29:24

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Thanks Alan, I've also just spotted the zero fighter but the shop says out of stock. I'm going to need to buy a bigger house to keep all these models haha
Current builds: HMS Victory, hachette black pearl, DC-3, R2-D2, Millennium Falcon
tf64
#8 Posted : 14 March 2016 21:47:27

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Hi Baz,

Looking good, great start will be following with interest love these plane builds.

Regards

Trev
Building: Artesania Stage-Coach H.M.S.Victory / H.M.S. Victory Cross Section / De-Agostini Spitfire.

Full Kits: San Francisco. De-Ago Bremen. Sovereign of the seas. Artesania Stage-Coach Number 2.

Tomick
#9 Posted : 15 March 2016 12:22:33

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Coming along nicely, well done Cool
Bazholding
#10 Posted : 19 March 2016 23:32:54

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Thanks for the comments

progress is slow at the moment, trying to get all the small pieces sorted at once so i can primer them in one go.





made a mistake by following the instructions and sticking the seat together before its painted. I think it will be easier to paint the sides then stick them on.

Current builds: HMS Victory, hachette black pearl, DC-3, R2-D2, Millennium Falcon
delboy271155
#11 Posted : 20 March 2016 01:18:08

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Hi Baz,

Looking good so far. Cool

Hope you are enjoying this build.

Regards
delboy271155
(Derek)
COME BACK GUY FAWKES "YOUR COUNTRY NEEDS YOU"






ModelMania
#12 Posted : 20 March 2016 13:48:56

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Great to see another DC-3 build on the forum Baz and you've made a good start - well done!! Cool ThumpUp

In answer to your query about the granular paint finish inside the cockpit roof, it could be a result of one of several things, or a combination of any of them, such as your air pressure being too high, paint too thick or spraying too far away from the surface, so that the paint dries in droplet form before it even hits the surface? Too high a temperature and/or humidity in the spraying room can also affect things. Also if you have a very slight 'burr' on the tip of the needle that can cause 'swirling' vortexes in the air/paint mixture as it leaves the airbrush, which can also enhance the chances of it drying too quickly. If you feel confident enough to disassemble your airbrush enough to remove your needle (very carefully and don't drop or bend it), try dragging it across your fingernail whilst rotating it and if it catches then you have a burr which will need to be carefully polished out with something like 12000 grit 'Micro-Mesh' or replacement with a new needle? Be careful when fitting the needle back into the airbrush, as they are easily damaged from too much force or incorrect alignment?

Try setting your pressure at something low like 12-15 psi, thin the paint to something like semi-skimmed milk and spray from around 2-3 inches distance in several thin coats and that usually does the trick? What brand of paints are you using, it looks like Tamiya acrylics to me, but hard to tell just from a photo? If it is Tamiya and you are using their thinner, the solvent in the thinner is usually Isopropyl Alcohol which evaporates very quickly thus allowing the paint to dry before it can attach to the surface. Try adding a little 'distilled' (or 'De-ionised' water as they call it nowadays) as a co-solvent along with the Tamiya thinner and that will slow down the drying of the paint in mid-flight? I also use an additive called 'Flow Improver' which just needs a few drops in the paint mix but again, it acts as a secondary retarder and also helps the paint to flow together when it hits the surface, which should lessen any chance of grains forming in mid or post flight?

One other thing that could be causing it, and something which is flagged up to me by the fact that your paint finish seems relatively smooth everywhere else on the cockpit section, such as the edges, but only granular in the deeply 'bowled' or 'concave' part of the roof is that when spraying the sides of such a shape you sometimes get droplets of paint mixture 'bouncing' back from the sides and landing in the bowl below so to speak, and the paint which goes on to land in the bowl has had further time to dry before it sticks to the surface, thus ending up as dried grains in the bottom of the bowl, which appears to be what you have in your photo? Try airbrushing whilst following the contours in the same direction that they naturally run, not running across from one side to the other of the part and starting your spraying with the deepest areas then gradually moving away and outwards towards the edges but always following the contours as best you can then that will hopefully help avoid as much 'splash back' or 'bouncing off' of the paint as you can, but the amount of splash back will also go hand in hand with how high the air pressure is set? More pressure equals more chance of the paint droplets bouncing off before they can stick, therefore lowering the pressure would be a good move, giving the paint more chance to stick rather than just bouncing off and landing somewhere else?

Airbrushing is a difficult thing to master and different paint brands can act quite differently to one another even when used at exactly the same pressure and mix settings? It just needs lots of practice and experimenting and the full understanding of the results from any experiments made, but best practice is to try the spray on a scrap model or piece of cardboard initially and to make any paint mix/air pressure/spray distance adjustments on that until you are fully satisfied that you have it right and only then move onto spraying your intended model, but again painting in several thin coats?

Hope that helps?


Kev Smile
Bazholding
#13 Posted : 20 March 2016 16:39:43

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Hi kev thanks for the information.

I've been reading that window cleaner is good for stripping the paint so I will try that and paint the part again.

I'm using Vallejo model air as after going through several posts on various forums they seemed to get good reviews.

When I repaint it I will try as you have said and drop the pressure and start from the deep section outwards.

I now keep an eye out at car boot sales and online sales for cheap plastic model kits to practice my painting on rather than trying to learn on these more expensive models.

I started the victory when it first came out with very little modelling experience or equipment but it got put on hold due to having two kids and moving house. I've only just recently got back into it and I'm now trying to build up my tools and the experience needed to build these kits. I started the diaries to get help from people with experience such as yourself so thanks for the comments.
Current builds: HMS Victory, hachette black pearl, DC-3, R2-D2, Millennium Falcon
arpurchase
#14 Posted : 20 March 2016 19:21:00

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BigGrin Very nice workCool
Current builds:-C57,Zero, Lamborghini Countach, Caldercraft HMS Agamemnon,Robi,R2-D2, MFH Cobra .

ModelMania
#15 Posted : 21 March 2016 10:46:07

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Bazholding wrote:
Hi kev thanks for the information.

I've been reading that window cleaner is good for stripping the paint so I will try that and paint the part again.

I'm using Vallejo model air as after going through several posts on various forums they seemed to get good reviews.

When I repaint it I will try as you have said and drop the pressure and start from the deep section outwards.

I now keep an eye out at car boot sales and online sales for cheap plastic model kits to practice my painting on rather than trying to learn on these more expensive models.

I started the victory when it first came out with very little modelling experience or equipment but it got put on hold due to having two kids and moving house. I've only just recently got back into it and I'm now trying to build up my tools and the experience needed to build these kits. I started the diaries to get help from people with experience such as yourself so thanks for the comments.


Glad to help Baz, hope all goes well with your respray!! Cool ThumpUp


Kev Smile

birdaj2
#16 Posted : 21 March 2016 14:04:33

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Coming along very well.

Hope its giving you a lot of fun building.
Happy Modelling

Project: USS Constitution - subscription complete.
Project: Porsche 911 - subscribed to the 24 month option. Project: Jaguar - E type
Project: Harley Davidson Fat boy. Project: Lam. Countach
Project: 1:200 Bismarck (hachette).
Bazholding
#17 Posted : 25 March 2016 19:43:16

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litte bit more progress, I'm slowing things down and think about the steps rather than just follow the instructions.

i'm thinking the same as wnt2fly and i may not bother painting the rest of the frame if it is not seen, I will only paint the visible sections.

I have also decided to make the second section so it can be opened up, but I have cut the floor in 2 as when I did a test fit the floor is very tight.

I also need to buy a different shade of black as I think it looks a bit washed out.








Current builds: HMS Victory, hachette black pearl, DC-3, R2-D2, Millennium Falcon
tf64
#18 Posted : 25 March 2016 20:19:50

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Hi Bazholding,

Looking good, and great advise from Kev regarding Airbrushing can be a bit tricky at times, good luck with the build.

Regards
Trev.
Building: Artesania Stage-Coach H.M.S.Victory / H.M.S. Victory Cross Section / De-Agostini Spitfire.

Full Kits: San Francisco. De-Ago Bremen. Sovereign of the seas. Artesania Stage-Coach Number 2.

delboy271155
#19 Posted : 25 March 2016 23:25:01

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Hi Bazholding, BigGrin

Good to see progress on your DC3. Cool

I`m looking forward to see how the visible interior works out and hope the end result pans out as you want.

Regards
delboy271155
(Derek)
COME BACK GUY FAWKES "YOUR COUNTRY NEEDS YOU"






arpurchase
#20 Posted : 26 March 2016 08:56:06

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BigGrin Looking good and nice workCool
Current builds:-C57,Zero, Lamborghini Countach, Caldercraft HMS Agamemnon,Robi,R2-D2, MFH Cobra .

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