Welcome Guest Search | Active Topics | Log In | Register

21 Pages <1234>»
John's Shambles Options
Tomick
#21 Posted : 04 February 2011 18:43:46

Rank: Pro

Groups:

Joined: 24/08/2009
Posts: 47,828
Points: -10,248
If you want a good bond then remove the paint from the tops of the gun support beams; what you dont want is one of the supports mounted to it coming loose when the dummy barrels are inserted, where you may then be unable to gain access to re-glue the support.

You should complete the planking prior to where the magazine says to install the gun support beams, the planking provides rigidity to the hull, adding the support beams too soon may create a frame movement problem which is then set.

The mounting holes for the dummy guns are being drilled central to the port openings, the additional gun support pieces are there to take into account of end to end deck camber, which in turn means that some of the mounting holes will be slightly higher than those in the full gun mount beam, but will look okay, and hence why an additional piece is added, otherwise there would be nothing to drill into.

z8000783
#22 Posted : 04 February 2011 18:50:50

Rank: Elite

Active Service Medal: 500 post active service MedalPurple Medal: Super active service medal for 1000 postsBuild-Diary Medal: Build-Diary Medal of Honour
Groups: Registered

Joined: 24/05/2010
Posts: 1,644
Points: 4,967
Location: London & Greece
Perfect response, thanks and will do.

You may want to amend your diary as it looks to me like the tops are painted. It would be good to make it unambiguous for those coming up behind me.

I guess it's too late the change the magazine.

John
Tomick
#23 Posted : 04 February 2011 20:13:08

Rank: Pro

Groups:

Joined: 24/08/2009
Posts: 47,828
Points: -10,248
There's nothing to change in the magazine as the tops are unpainted, mine we're painted as it was not apparent at the time that additional gun supports were being added for additional height, where any painted area's of the tops was then sanded for the securing of the additional gun supports, ultimately it depends on what sort of glue is used for the best fix Wink
z8000783
#24 Posted : 04 February 2011 20:20:10

Rank: Elite

Active Service Medal: 500 post active service MedalPurple Medal: Super active service medal for 1000 postsBuild-Diary Medal: Build-Diary Medal of Honour
Groups: Registered

Joined: 24/05/2010
Posts: 1,644
Points: 4,967
Location: London & Greece
Just thought it might be worth making it abundantly clear for us novices, there's so much to take in it's easy to miss something.

No criticism intended.

John
Wilfy the Sea Dog
#25 Posted : 12 February 2011 00:02:12

Rank: Vice-Master
Active Service Medal: 500 post active service MedalBuild-Diary Medal: Build-Diary Medal of Honour
Groups: Registered

Joined: 06/06/2010
Posts: 566
Points: 1,657
Location: UK
Hi,

Looking good I'm at a similar point to yourself, but have been too shy to add pics!

Noticed your post about not using pins, have you tried the bulldog clip method?

Remove the silver lever portion from 1 clip and insert in the black sprung portion so that the rounded end protrudes one side, you can then clamp onto the ribs & the rounded end holds the plank against rib. Can also add pressure in a vertical plane to squeeze planks together but this does depend on plank to deck level.

I've found this method very useful but must add not my idea, stole/borrowed it from someone else on here!

Keep up the great work.

Wilfy
z8000783
#26 Posted : 12 February 2011 07:45:24

Rank: Elite

Active Service Medal: 500 post active service MedalPurple Medal: Super active service medal for 1000 postsBuild-Diary Medal: Build-Diary Medal of Honour
Groups: Registered

Joined: 24/05/2010
Posts: 1,644
Points: 4,967
Location: London & Greece
Hi Wilfy

Thanks for the comments, they are always appreciated.

Yes I bought a load of those clips but found they weren't as tight as the pins. I thought it was important that the planks sat snugly on the ribs and the BD's didn't seem to provide enough pressure. Also I couldn't use them on the ribs just below the desk as I had fitted mine as the instructions had described.

However you do need to be careful with the pins as they can split the ribs. I found it works better if you screw them in slowly. I am sure I will use the clips again later on the lower hull though.

John
z8000783
#27 Posted : 18 February 2011 16:10:09

Rank: Elite

Active Service Medal: 500 post active service MedalPurple Medal: Super active service medal for 1000 postsBuild-Diary Medal: Build-Diary Medal of Honour
Groups: Registered

Joined: 24/05/2010
Posts: 1,644
Points: 4,967
Location: London & Greece
OK so on to the next.

I used the gauge to mark out the middle row of gun ports but of course the line is angled at the stern and bows.

I remember we had to the the ports level to the waterline so I presume these lines are not helpful. Should I just measure 31mm to the centre of the gun port and make a square, level hole from there?

John

z8000783
#28 Posted : 18 February 2011 18:17:41

Rank: Elite

Active Service Medal: 500 post active service MedalPurple Medal: Super active service medal for 1000 postsBuild-Diary Medal: Build-Diary Medal of Honour
Groups: Registered

Joined: 24/05/2010
Posts: 1,644
Points: 4,967
Location: London & Greece
I think I see it now. The jig is not meant for drawing the port but just for measuring.

Sorry for the false alarm.

John
z8000783
#29 Posted : 22 February 2011 09:01:58

Rank: Elite

Active Service Medal: 500 post active service MedalPurple Medal: Super active service medal for 1000 postsBuild-Diary Medal: Build-Diary Medal of Honour
Groups: Registered

Joined: 24/05/2010
Posts: 1,644
Points: 4,967
Location: London & Greece
Sad day today as I go back to the UK and leave the lady behind for 3 months so no more complaints about the issues being 2 days late please.

I thought I would put the latest pics up and as usual any advice would be very welcome (apart from - remove all the planks and start again).

In the meantime I'll continue with the forum except when I'm abroad, and watch you all get further ahead but no problem.


The last rib is flat to the keel but there is a bit of a curve, hope that's ok.




As I mentioned previously I got into all sorts of contortions because of not using the pins and the planking is not as good as I would have liked but hopefully won't look to bad with a good rub down.


I was hoping to get the middle gun ports all cut out before I left but ran out of time. Will now have to relearn all the knife skills.


I couldn't get the template to line up with the bottom plank and the rib correctly and on top of that one of the planks broke while the glue was drying so I decided not to cut them until I had finished. Not sure if that is a good idea or not. Looking at some of the pics in the official build it seems the gallery will cover everything up though.


Yes the dummy cannon positions are a bit out but they don't actually look to bad with kebab sticks in the ports as I couldn't resist see what the effect looked like.




A good shot of the extra packing required for rib 12 here. All seems OK now but I guess I will know at some stage for sure.

So final question, I am keen to do the lower planking now so that I can turn the ship over without too much damage to the work done already. I will then finish rows 13 and above after that together with the upper deck gun ports.

Can anyone say if this would cause a problem later?

So there we are. Good building to everyone and more pics in a while.

John
z8000783
#30 Posted : 25 February 2011 09:53:41

Rank: Elite

Active Service Medal: 500 post active service MedalPurple Medal: Super active service medal for 1000 postsBuild-Diary Medal: Build-Diary Medal of Honour
Groups: Registered

Joined: 24/05/2010
Posts: 1,644
Points: 4,967
Location: London & Greece
I think this may have got lost in the noise but I would still be interested in an answer especially from Tommic, thanks.


So final question, I am keen to do the lower planking now so that I can turn the ship over without too much damage to the work done already. I will then finish rows 13 and above after that together with the upper deck gun ports.

Can anyone say if this would cause a problem later?

John
Tomick
#31 Posted : 25 February 2011 10:23:12

Rank: Pro

Groups:

Joined: 24/08/2009
Posts: 47,828
Points: -10,248
As my build is by the book I can only comment if your building by the book if that makes sense, otherwise its departing from the intended build, where should anything go wrong it would be down to you to resolve.
z8000783
#32 Posted : 25 February 2011 10:25:46

Rank: Elite

Active Service Medal: 500 post active service MedalPurple Medal: Super active service medal for 1000 postsBuild-Diary Medal: Build-Diary Medal of Honour
Groups: Registered

Joined: 24/05/2010
Posts: 1,644
Points: 4,967
Location: London & Greece
Yes it does make sense and I understand your position, thanks.

Thoughts from experts here most welcome.

John
Tomick
#33 Posted : 25 February 2011 10:26:35

Rank: Pro

Groups:

Joined: 24/08/2009
Posts: 47,828
Points: -10,248
What I will say is that if you turn over now then there is high risk of breaking the frame tops, where if these are first planked they will be supported.
Dontshootme
#34 Posted : 25 February 2011 10:28:53

Rank: Master
Active Service Medal: 500 post active service MedalPurple Medal: Super active service medal for 1000 postsBuild-Diary Medal: Build-Diary Medal of Honour
Groups: Registered

Joined: 15/04/2010
Posts: 1,266
Points: 3,841
Location: The Quantock Hills,Somerset
Should be ok,Son of Bulwark did the same.just make sure you protect the ribs from bending & snapping as they are very vulnerable upside down...make a jig or something that supports the hull with the ribs off the ground.I made one that is working nicely..see post 16 & scroll the pics http://forum.model-space...t.aspx?g=posts&t=726
Rob Nolli Illigitimi Carborundum!!!
Current Builds:HMS Victory,SV Thermopylae
z8000783
#35 Posted : 25 February 2011 10:31:23

Rank: Elite

Active Service Medal: 500 post active service MedalPurple Medal: Super active service medal for 1000 postsBuild-Diary Medal: Build-Diary Medal of Honour
Groups: Registered

Joined: 24/05/2010
Posts: 1,644
Points: 4,967
Location: London & Greece
Thanks. Yes I have a jig which I used to do the fairing on the main hull when the ship had to be upside down.

John
Son of Bulwark
#36 Posted : 25 February 2011 17:53:02

Rank: Pro

Groups:

Joined: 24/08/2009
Posts: 47,828
Points: -10,248
Hi John

It's not a problem to stop at the upper gun deck then start the lower hull just make some blocks from MDF and bolt them together and fix to your jig with brackets. This will support the ship will you work on the bottom, make sure the blocks are bigger than the tallest ribs.

I found fitting the upper deck easy when the hull isn't complete you can get in between the ribs to fit the deck beams & planks.



Link to this section in my build diary :-
http://forum.model-space...s&m=19902#post19902
z8000783
#37 Posted : 25 February 2011 17:57:01

Rank: Elite

Active Service Medal: 500 post active service MedalPurple Medal: Super active service medal for 1000 postsBuild-Diary Medal: Build-Diary Medal of Honour
Groups: Registered

Joined: 24/05/2010
Posts: 1,644
Points: 4,967
Location: London & Greece
Thanks Darron, I will move ahead on that basis and if I cock up it's all your fault.

John
Son of Bulwark
#38 Posted : 25 February 2011 20:01:15

Rank: Pro

Groups:

Joined: 24/08/2009
Posts: 47,828
Points: -10,248
Well that's nice John! so if you cock up it's all my fault!Scared

That will teach me for giving you a little advice on how you can do thing's. Crying

Still you need to have someone to blame when thing's go wrong don't you! Laugh

Make sure that when you support the ribs that the supports are not fixed to the base of your jig until you have bolted them to the ribs, or you might bend them if you first fix the support to the jig and then try to bolt the supports. I would use 3 or 4 sets of blocks to support the ribs, fit the MDF on each side of the ribs, bolts on the outside of the ribs, the brackets are at the end of the blocks to give you the most stable support. You might want put a pad between the support and the hull planks just to be safe.

Have fun doing the lower hull planking! Laugh Laugh Laugh
z8000783
#39 Posted : 25 February 2011 20:35:44

Rank: Elite

Active Service Medal: 500 post active service MedalPurple Medal: Super active service medal for 1000 postsBuild-Diary Medal: Build-Diary Medal of Honour
Groups: Registered

Joined: 24/05/2010
Posts: 1,644
Points: 4,967
Location: London & Greece
Son of Bulwark wrote:
Well that's nice John! so if you cock up it's all my fault!Scared

That will teach me for giving you a little advice on how you can do thing's. Crying

Still you need to have someone to blame when thing's go wrong don't you! Laugh

Definitely.

Son of Bulwark wrote:
Make sure that when you support the ribs that the supports are not fixed to the base of your jig until you have bolted them to the ribs, or you might bend them if you first fix the support to the jig and then try to bolt the supports. I would use 3 or 4 sets of blocks to support the ribs, fit the MDF on each side of the ribs, bolts on the outside of the ribs, the brackets are at the end of the blocks to give you the most stable support. You might want put a pad between the support and the hull planks just to be safe.

Great stuff, thanks.

Son of Bulwark wrote:
Have fun doing the lower hull planking! Laugh Laugh Laugh

Looks like I'll be busy over the whole of Summer.

John
z8000783
#40 Posted : 06 March 2011 12:44:19

Rank: Elite

Active Service Medal: 500 post active service MedalPurple Medal: Super active service medal for 1000 postsBuild-Diary Medal: Build-Diary Medal of Honour
Groups: Registered

Joined: 24/05/2010
Posts: 1,644
Points: 4,967
Location: London & Greece
I need a little help in the form of a favour from someone. I have decided to put together a new jig to use while I plank the lower hull however, I am in the UK for 3 months and my build is in Greece so I need some measurements taken. Here they are and as usual, any other tips very gratefully received.

1. What is the height from row 12 of the planking to the top of rib/frame 15

2. What is the height from row 12 of the planking to the top of rib/frame 26

3. What is the distance between ribs 15 and rib 26

4. What is the width of the ship at the top of rib 15 i.e., distance between the tops of the same rib across the beam

5. What is the width of the ship at the tops of rib 26

I might need some more as I go.

Many thanks.

John
Users browsing this topic
Guest (2)
21 Pages <1234>»
Forum Jump  
You cannot post new topics in this forum.
You cannot reply to topics in this forum.
You cannot delete your posts in this forum.
You cannot edit your posts in this forum.
You cannot create polls in this forum.
You cannot vote in polls in this forum.

Powered by YAF | YAF © 2003-2009, Yet Another Forum.NET
This page was generated in 0.253 seconds.
DeAgostini