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Official HMS Victory Build Diary Issue 46 - 50 Options
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#1 Posted : 03 February 2011 11:21:10
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Mark Adams
Tomick
#2 Posted : 10 February 2011 15:05:43

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Issue 46 - Contains wood strips, grating strips and round shot; and has instruction to continue the upper deck planking and the fitting of the upper deck dummy gun support beams; carefully store the round shot and grating strips for later in the series.

Continuing the upper deck planking - With the central part of the deck planked, you can now fill in the final strips that run along the sides, some of these will need to be given extra support and shaped to fit around the frames, don't forget to continue the caulking and plank joins.

Cut another row of planks to fit along side the last planks fitted, noting that you will need to cut away the side of the aft plank so it will fit between the last plank and frame 30, then glue into place.
(The dimensions of your model may vary slightly, therefore the space between frame 30 and the previous plank will vary, if there is less than 2mm don't bother cutting away the side of the plank, just stop it at frame 30).

Add an extra row of bow planking in a similar way, this plank may or may not need stepping at the bow, depending on your individual model.
Cut another row of planks, stepping them at the bow and stern as necessary, but Do Not glue them in place yet.
On the last row of planks, lightly mark with a pencil the width/position of the deck beams at frames 16-21, remove the last row of planks, then measure the gap between the edge of last deck plank where you make the marks and the inside of the hull side.
Deduct 3mm from the measurements just made and then cut short pieces of planking to these lengths, you will require one piece either side of the marks made, then glue the pieces to the underside of the plank so they sit either side of the marks, so that when the plank is turned over the pieces project into the gap you measured between the last plank and hull side.
These 'fingers' will support the decking planks at the very edge of the deck, check the underside of the plank to ensure the fingers stop just short and do not protrude beyond the back edge, as it would stop the plank from fitting in place against the previous plank; and before you continue with the decking ensure that the glue of the fingers has fully dried.
Then glue this row of planks in place, there should be a small gap (about 1-2mm) between the ends of the fingers and the hull side, do not force the planks if they are a tight fit, if necessary trim the ends of the fingers, ultimately each pair of fingers should sit either side of each deck beam/frame.

The next plank will need to be notched to fit around the frames, cut strips of planking to length and lay them on the deck so you can mark the position of the frames, measure the distance between each frame and the plank, subtract the measurement from 5mm to give the depth of the notch required, e.g. if the gap is 3mm, the notch needs tom be 5-3 = 2mm.
Cut away the notches in the planks, test fit them into position, and then glue into place, then cut short strips of wood to fill the remaining gaps between the deck planks and the inside of the hull planking and glue into place, (you can use either the 1.5 x 5mm or 1.5 x 8mm strip depending on the size of gap you have).
It is only necessary to fill the gaps between frames 16-21, as this is the visible area of the open gun deck, you can leave a gap of up to 1mm along the edge - this will be covered by a layer of bulwark lining planks which are fitted at issue 47.

Fitting the dummy gun support beams - The process is very similar to the fitting of the previous gun support beams and should be repeated on both sides of the upper deck, (at issue 50, the beams will have extra support pieces fitted).

Cut a length of the 4 x 9mm wood strip to fit between the bow bulkhead and the rear edge of frame 16, trial fit into place and mark the points where saw cuts should be made to allow it to bend (about two-thirds to three-quarters of the way through the beam).
Cut another beam to fit from the front edge of frame 21 to the centre of frame 25, this beam is virtually straight and should not need any cuts.
Cut a final length to fit from the centre of frame 25 to frame 30, this beam may need a few saws cuts, as it has a gentle curve.
Paint the outside face of each beam with black paint and set aside to dry; then protect the deck with masking tape, and paint the sides of the frames alongside the gun ports. Do Not paint frames 16 to 21 as the ports between will have full gun kits fitted (5 each side of the deck).
When the paint is dry, remove the tape and then glue the forward beams in place, reinforcing them by pinning at the top into the frames, note that the beams should be fitted vertically (not leaning in), with their bases flat on the deck.
Fit the rear support beams in the same way.


Issue 47 - Contains bulwark lining strips, wood pieces to make the 'bitts', grating strips, and contains instruction for lining of the upper deck bulwarks and making the 'bitts'.

Issue 48 - Contains two 12-pounder guns, plus tackle parts for making up the gun tackle of the upper deck; and has instruction for the assembly of the deck gratings supplied at issues 43, 46 and 47.

Issue 49 - Contains two 12-pounder guns, plus a set of parts for making up the gun tackle of the upper deck; and has instruction for the fitting of the deck gratings constructed in 48.

At this point you will need to have the first 10 gun kits assembled/painted in readiness for placement at issue 50.

Issue 50 - Contains wood for the dummy gun support rails along with Belfry parts; and has instruction for the fitting of the dummy gun support pieces, the rigging of 10 guns on the upper deck, and the drilling of the dummy gun support rails.
Tomick attached the following image(s):
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Tomick
#3 Posted : 17 February 2011 10:31:14

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Issue 47 - Contains bulwark lining strips, wood pieces to make the 'bitts', grating strips, and has instruction for lining of the upper deck bulwarks and making the 'bitts'.

Lining the bulwarks - Use the thin strips of wood to create a double layer of planking between frames 16 and 21 on both sides of the model.

Ensure the inside of the planking is reasonably smooth and that there are no lumps of hardened glue, sand if necessary.
Cut a length of 1x5mm planking to fit between the first two frames, you will need to cut the planking so that it does not obscure the port and stops at the edge of the gun port lining. Continue the planking upwards until the bulwark has been lined, and repeat the process for all bulwarks between frames 16 and 21, and when the glue has dried sand the planks smooth.

If you are painting your model, the inside faces of the bulwarks need to be painted yellow ochre, which you should do now, as this area will become inaccessible once guns are put in place and the quarter deck is planked. Don't paint the deck support bracket of each frame where the next deck will be seated.
Those who have opted for a natural finish can varnish the bulwarks, but Do Not varnish the deck as other items need to be fixed to it.
you should carefully protect the deck between frames 16-21 with masking tape, paint the inside of the bulwarks continuing onto the ends of the dummy gun support beams, and 15mm or so along these beams.

Making the bitts - The bitts consist of three pieces of wood arranged in a broad 'H' shape, you need to cut joints in all three parts and also makes slots in the uprights, this is done by following the dimension's noted in the magazine, the process involves careful measurement and careful cutting - measure twice cut once!

If you are painting your model, paint the bitts black. If you have opted for a natural finish you can varnish or stain the bitts as you prefer.

That's it for this week.


Issue 48 - Contains two 12-pounder guns, plus tackle parts for making up the gun tackle of the upper deck; and has instruction for the assembly of the deck gratings supplied at issues 43, 46 and 47.

Issue 49 - Contains two 12-pounder guns, plus a set of parts for making up the gun tackle of the upper deck; and has instruction for the fitting of the deck gratings constructed in 48.

At this point you will need to have the first 10 gun kits assembled/painted in readiness for placement at issue 50.

Issue 50 - Contains wood for the dummy gun support rails along with belfry parts; and has instruction for the fitting of the dummy gun support pieces, the rigging of 10 guns on the upper deck, and the drilling of the dummy gun support rails.

Issue 51 - Contains the rudder, hinge parts and parts for the ships lantern, and has instruction for preparing the rudder, making the pintles and hanging the rudder.
For those who are copper tiling the hull, the rudder should not be hung until the hull and rudder have been coppered, for those having opted for the natural finish the rudder can be hung at this point, which is also the case for those having opted for a copper painted hull.
Tomick attached the following image(s):
V47.JPG
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V47-2.JPG
V47-3.JPG
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Tomick
#4 Posted : 23 February 2011 14:18:11

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Issue 48 - Contains two 12-pounder guns, plus tackle parts for making up the gun tackle of the upper deck, and has instruction for the assembly of the upper gun deck gratings - The grating parts were supplied at issues 43, 46 and 47, the 2x2mm strip was supplied in 43, the 2x4mm strip was supplied in 46, carefully store the gun tackle parts for use at issues 49/50.

Make up the two guns kits as per your chosen guise.

The medium and large gratings will fit the respective holes created in the upper gun deck, the two small gratings sit on top of the deck. The grating strips are delicate, so handle with care and use a sharp narrow blade to cut them and use fine sandpaper throughout. There is lots of careful measuring and cutting involved in creating the gratings - measure twice cut once!

Making the medium grating - Cut 20 pieces of grating strip, cutting across the 11th notch so that all the pieces have ten notches, don't worry about trimming the cut ends neatly at this stage.
Interlock the strips to form a 10x10 square grid; its a delicate task, don't force the strips and you may have to ease some of the notches to get a good fit.
Then paint a little diluted PVA glue onto the back of the grid, going all around the edges, when the glue has fully dried, gently sand the edges flat being careful not to break the ends, then lay a sheet of fine sandpaper on your work surface and gently sand one face of the grid until it is smooth - this will become the upper face of the grating.
Cut a strip of 2x4mm wood slightly wider than the grid to allow for trimming, then with the grid face down, glue the strip onto one edge of the grid, when the glue has dried sand the ends flush with the side of the grating. - Remember to work with the grid face down, so that the strips of wood that fame the grating will be flush with the upper face of the grating.

Cut four strips of 2x4mm and two strips of 2x2mm wood, making each of them 56mm long, glue two of the 2x4mm strips onto each side of the grating, keep the grating upside down so the upper surface remains flush.
Now turn the grating the right way up and glue a 2x2mm strip to each side flush with the lower edges of the 2x4mm strips. Glue a final 2x4mm strip to each side which will create a 2mm U channel in which the cannonballs will sit.
Sand both ends of the side frames flush so they are the same length, and glue two strips of 2x4mm wood onto the ends of the grating to complete the assembly of the medium grating.

Making the large grating - Cut 30 lengths of grating strip 5 notches long, 20 lengths 6 notches long and 27 lengths 10 notches long, and assemble these into five grating grids, glue and sand as before and then set the two 10x6 small gratings aside for now.
Take the three 10x5 grating grids, stack them together, and sand them so they are all equal, sand them until they are all 18mm wide, use a rule or calipers to check the width.
Cut four strips of 2x4mm strip the same length as the gratings. Place the grids upside down so the top faces are flush, then glue two strips to one grating, and one strip on each of the other two, when the glue has dried sand the ends smooth, being careful not to alter the length of the grids, then glue all three grids together ensuring that you have all the top faces on the same side. Lay them down to keep them flat and use a straight edge to make sure the sections align.
Keeping the top surfaces on the underside, cut two lengths of 2x4mm strip, 82mm long, and glue them across the ends of all three grids.
Turn the grating over, and add a 2x2mm strip along the bottom edge, allow the glue to dry and sand the ends smooth, now add two similar 2x2mm strips along the sides, once again sand the needs smooth after the glue has dried.
Add a 2x4mm strip along the end, followed by strips on each side which will create a U channel for the cannonballs, sand the ends smooth ensuring they are the same length, and glue a 2x4mm strip across the end to complete the large grating.

Completing the two small gratings - Take the two 10x2 grids already assembled and cut four lengths of 2x4mm strip to the same length of the grids, glue these strips to the edges of the grids, working upside down as you did before; sand the ends smooth, then complete the gratings by adding strips of 2x4mm wood across the ends.

This completes issue 48.


Issue 49 - Contains two 12-pounder guns, plus a set of parts for making up the gun tackle of the upper deck; and has instruction for the fitting of the deck gratings constructed in 48, (you will also need the cannonballs supplied in 43/46).

At this point you will need to have the first 10 gun kits assembled/painted in readiness for placement at issue 50.

Issue 50 - Contains wood for the dummy gun support rails along with belfry parts; and has instruction for the fitting of the dummy gun support pieces, the rigging of 10 guns on the upper gun deck, and the drilling of the dummy gun support rails.

Issue 51 - Contains the rudder, hinge parts and parts for the ships lantern, and has instruction for preparing the rudder, making the pintles and hanging the rudder.
For those who are copper tiling the hull, the rudder should not be hung until the hull and rudder have been coppered, for those having opted for the natural finish the rudder can be hung at this point, which is also the case for those having opted for a copper painted hull.

Issue 52 - Contains parts for the second companionway ladder, grating hand rail parts, turned deck columns, wood strip for the deck rails and another 12-pounder gun kit, and has instruction for the making of both companionway ladders, the fitting of the grating hand rails and the fitting of the bitts, (the first ladder parts were supplied in 34).
Tomick attached the following image(s):
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Tomick
#5 Posted : 02 March 2011 15:29:33

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Issue 49 - Contains two 12-pounder guns, plus a set of parts for making up the gun tackle of the upper deck, and has instruction for the fitting of the deck gratings, adding the cannonballs and rigging the bulwarks - (you will need the gun tackle parts supplied at 48 and this issue and the cannonballs supplied at 43/46).

Assemble the two guns kits as before and finish as per your chosen guise.

Fitting the gratings of the upper deck - The medium and large gratings fit around the large and medium holes of the upper gun deck, the two small gratings are located onto the deck planking aft of the main mast. Ensure that the gratings have been sanded and any dust particles removed.

Using a razer saw, carefully remove the exposed gun deck beams that run across the large and medium grating holes in the gun deck.
Glue the first small grating centrally on top of the deck planking 60mm astern of the main mast hole, and glue the second small grating centrally on top of the deck planking 10mm astern of the main mast hole.

Glue the medium and large gratings in place over their respective deck holes, being careful to ensure that both are located the correct way round (the rectangular hole within each the grating facing towards the bow).

You can, if you wish, varnish the deck with a matt or satin varnish - Test the varnish in an inconspicuous area first, to make sure the varnish does not cause running of the deck caulking ink used.

Cannonballs - Paint a thick layer of varnish into the U channel of the large and medium gratings and then add the canon balls into the channels, once dry the varnish will set the balls in place.

Preparing the gun tackle - Ten complete guns are fitted on the visible area of the upper gun deck (five per side), you will need the tackle parts supplied 48 and 49.
Rigging shears are a useful tool
http://forum.model-space...aspx?g=posts&t=1946

Preparing the canon - You need to drill six holes in each canon carriage (3 holes on each side of each carriage) -
A....
0.7mm hole is drilled vertically downwards all the way through the side of the carriage - hole 'a'.
0.5mm hole is drilled vertically downwards just behind the axle - hole 'b'.
0.7mm hole drilled horizontally to a depth of about 3mm - hole 'c' - It does not matter if this hole goes right through the side of the carriage or into the base.

Take two eye bolts, cut the shanks to 3mm, and glue them into the two 'b' holes drilled, note the orientation of the yes which should be parallel to the thimble on the gun barrel.

Into the two 'a' holes test fit two pins (supplied with the canon kits - if lost use planking pins).

Two tackle block's are fitted to each side of each carriage at hole 'c', but first you will need to make up the blocks.
Tie a loop of the 0.15mm thread around a block so that it sits into the grooved slots and secure with a hitch, ensuring that the hole in the block is closer tot he end with the knot, pull the hitch tight, and tie another hitch to secure the knot -You need to keep the tails as short as possible, so as not to waste the thread.
Then seal the knot with a drop of diluted PVA glue and paint about 5mm of each tail end with diluted PVA and allow to dry. Then cut one tail to about 3mm and cut the other close to the knot.
Paint some neat PVA into the tail of the block and insert the tail into the c hole of the carriage and repeat at the opposite side - only glue the tail so that the block is free to move slightly, (you will need to make 20 such blocks - 2 per canon x10).

I've chosen not to do a step-by-step of the assembly of the breech and tackle ropes simply because the magazine steps cover the task very well, (though the step 9 photo on page 12 has an incorrect photo but step 10 show's what is required); In short, you will need to make up 10 breech rope and 10 tackle rope assemblies which completes the tackle for ten guns.
One thing to be mindful of is careful handling of the block wire, its gauge and rigidity makes the wire hypodermic needle like!

Rigging the bulwarks - Before fitting the guns, you will need to attach gun tackle to the bulwarks, the process is repeated alongside all ten gun ports (five each side) in the centre span of the upper gun deck.

Drill a 0.6mm diameter hole in the centre of the frame next to the gun port, at the height of the centre of the port (close to the bottom of the deck support bracket). this hole needs to be deep enough to take the shank of the full length eyebolts, repeat the process for all the frames where the 10 guns will be fitted.
Then drill a 0.6mm hole, 2mm deep in the bulwarks along side each of the gun ports, positioning it 6mm forward of the gun port, at the height of the centre of the port. - Be careful not to drill right through the hull planking!
Using superglue, glue the long eyebolts with the breech ropes attached into the holes in the frames, note that the ring with the breech rope goes to the top and ensure that the eyebolt is vertical.
Using superglue, glue the short eyebolts on the tackle without the breech rope) into the holes in the bulwarks, ensure that the eye is vertical.

That completes the build for this week!

You will need to have 10 guns ready for placement at issue 50.


Issue 50 - Contains wood for the dummy gun support rails along with belfry parts; and has instruction for the fitting of the dummy gun support pieces, the rigging and placement of 10 guns on the upper gun deck, and the drilling of the dummy gun support rails.

Issue 51 - Contains the rudder, hinge parts and parts for the ships lantern; and has instruction for preparing the rudder, making the pintles and hanging the rudder.
For those who are copper tiling the hull, the rudder should not be hung until the hull and rudder have been coppered, for those having opted for the natural finish the rudder can be hung at this point, which is also the case for those having opted for a copper painted hull.

Issue 52 - Contains parts for the second companionway ladder, grating hand rail parts, turned deck columns, wood strip for the deck rails and another 12-pounder gun kit; and has instruction for the making of both companionway ladders, the fitting of the grating hand rails and the fitting of the bitts, (the first ladder parts were supplied in 34).

Issue 53 - Contains wood strips for the quarterdeck deck support beams; and has instruction for the height adjustment of central span of deck supports, the start of the fitting of the forward deck support beams, and the construction of the ship's wheel.
Tomick attached the following image(s):
V49.JPG
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Tomick
#6 Posted : 10 March 2011 09:38:17

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Issue 50 - Contains wood for the upper deck dummy gun support rails along with belfry parts; and has instruction for the fitting of the dummy gun support blocks, the rigging and placement of 10 guns on the upper gun deck, and the drilling of the upper deck dummy gun support rails. - Carefully store the belfry roof and bell along with the 2x2mm and 3x3mm strips of wood.

Fitting the dummy gun support pieces - As on the lower decks, the dummy gun barrels are supported by short blocks of wood strip fixed on top of the long support beams - These blocks should be added before the placement of the 10 guns.

Take the three 4x9mm strips of wood and paint one side of each of them black, try not to get paint onto the tops or bottoms of the strips.
When dry, cut 16 pieces 30mm long, 2 pieces 25mm long and 2 pieces 15mm long; then glue the blocks on top of the existing gun support beams of the upper deck. - The two 15mm lengths are fitted at the bow and the two 25mm lengths at the stern, allow the glue to dry overnight.

Rigging the guns - As well as attaching the breech ropes and tackle, each gun should be securely pinned and glued to the deck so that they stay in place when the hull is turned on its side or upside down to carry out further work on the hull later on, where once the main deck is in place it will then be difficult to reset these guns.

I'm not going to repeat the rigging steps for the 10 guns which is described in great detail within the magazine steps, therefore I'll just add a few notes:

Test fit the pins into the carriages before attempting to rig the guns, the pins need to be a snug fit but not so tight that they cannot be pushed through the carriage, the gun rigging process is repeated for all 10 guns.

Note that the blocks may be very close to each other, or possibly touching, this is inevitable as the blocks are overscale due to manufacturing limitations.

The steps note that the guns should protrude the ports by about 2mm, bearing in mind that the dummy guns will likely protrude by about the same amount.

The rigging ropes can be set into position with the application of diluted PVA glue.

Drilling the dummy gun support beams - Once all 10 guns have been installed, carefully drill 2mm holes into the dummy gun support beams, position the holes so that they align with the barrels of the guns you have just fitted.

That's it for this week!

Issue 51 - Contains the rudder, hinge parts and parts for the ships lantern; and has instruction for preparing the rudder, making the pintles and hanging the rudder.
For those who are copper tiling the hull, the rudder should not be hung until the hull and rudder have been coppered, for those having opted for the natural finish the rudder can be hung at this point, which is also the case for those having opted for a copper painted hull.

Issue 52 - Contains parts for the second companionway ladder, grating hand rail parts, turned deck columns, wood strip for the deck rails and another 12-pounder gun kit; and has instruction for the making of both companionway ladders, the fitting of the grating hand rails and the fitting of the bitts, (the first ladder parts were supplied in 34).

Issue 53 - Contains wood strips for the quarterdeck deck support beams; and has instruction for the height adjustment of central span of deck supports, the start of the fitting of the forward deck support beams, and the construction of the ship's wheel.

Issue 54 - Contains wood strips for the decking & deck support beams, pins and a length of 8mm dowel; and has instruction for the continuation of installing the main deck beams, trimming the tops of the frames and planking of the quarterdeck - The dowel is used as a test piece for the mizzen mast, where holes will need to be formed in the deck support beam and decking.
Tomick attached the following image(s):
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