Welcome Guest Search | Active Topics | Log In | Register

Official HMS Victory Build Diary Issue 51 - 55 Options
admin
#1 Posted : 01 March 2011 19:01:13
Rank: Administration


Groups: Administrator, Administrators

Joined: 24/08/2009
Posts: 926
Points: 2,917
BigGrin
Mark Adams
Tomick
#2 Posted : 16 March 2011 15:55:14

Rank: Newbie
Build-Diary Medal: Build-Diary Medal of HonourPublisher Medal: Article published MedalActive Service Medal: 500 post active service MedalPurple Medal: Super active service medal for 1000 postsRed Medal: Red MedalTurquoise Medal: Turquoise Medal for model making know-how contribution
Groups:

Joined: 08/03/2010
Posts: 19,138
Points: 53,381
Issue 51 - Contains the rudder, hinge parts and lantern parts; and has instruction for preparing the rudder, making the pintles and hanging the rudder.

If you are intending to finish the lower hull with copper paint instead of leaving it natural wood, you can follow the main sequence of build steps in the magazine; when you apply paint to the hull simply paint over the hinges.
On the other hand, if you are going to add copper tiles to the hull, keel and rudder, the hinge strips will need to fit over the copper.
For this reason don't fix the hinges to the rudder or to the hull yet.


The hull of my build is to have copper tiling, and therefore my build for this issue reflects the copper tile route which will be continued at a later stage.

My build for this issue starts at step 2 of the magazine:

I have not added any vertical plank lines to the rudder because this feature will not be visible if you are copper tiling/painting.

I started by drawing a 2mm line along the length of the rudder on the rear side, then use a razor saw to make 2mm deep cuts at the marked hinge points taken from the magazine diagram, then remove the correct section of material for each hinge.

Then sand the front corners of the rudder to produce a radius.

To allow for movement of the rudder beneath the gallery, a triangular shaped hole needs to be cut at the stern post.
Draw a line 11mm from the sternpost, then mark two lines at an angle to form a triangle.
Then drill 2mm holes at the outer points of the triangle to form a radius at the corners, then carefully remove the wood to make a triangular opening - Note that there are gallery supports beneath the planks which makes this operation a little tricky - remove the wood in small pieces rather than trying to cut it in one go.

Once removed, paint the visible parts of the formers black to disguise them - note that the formers will prevent the rudder from swinging more than a little, saving the hinges from undue strain.

Making the pintles, adding the hinges and hanging the rudder will be carried out at a later date following copper sheathing.

That's it for this week!

Issue 52 - Contains sides for the second companionway ladder, grating hand rail parts, turned columns, wood strips and another 12-pounder gun; and has instruction for the making and fitting of both companionway ladders, the fitting of the two grating hand rails and the fitting of the bitts, (the first set of ladder parts were supplied within issue 34).

Issue 53 - Contains wood strips for the quarterdeck deck support beams; and has instruction for the height adjustment of central span of deck supports, the start of the fitting of the forward deck support beams, and the construction of the ship's wheel.

Issue 54 - Contains wood strips for the decking & deck support beams, pins and a length of 8mm dowel; and has instruction for the continuation of installing the main deck beams, trimming the tops of the frames and planking of the quarterdeck - The dowel is used as a test piece for the mizzen mast, where holes will need to be formed in the deck support beam and decking.

Issue 55 - Contains wood strips for the making of the centre pin rails, 30 metal belaying pins and another 12-pounder gun; and has instruction for finishing the quarterdeck openings and constructing the centre pin rails.

Tomick attached the following image(s):
V51.JPG
V51-1.JPG
V51-2.JPG
V51-3.JPG
V51-4.JPG
V51-5.JPG
Tomick
#3 Posted : 24 March 2011 09:59:44

Rank: Newbie
Build-Diary Medal: Build-Diary Medal of HonourPublisher Medal: Article published MedalActive Service Medal: 500 post active service MedalPurple Medal: Super active service medal for 1000 postsRed Medal: Red MedalTurquoise Medal: Turquoise Medal for model making know-how contribution
Groups:

Joined: 08/03/2010
Posts: 19,138
Points: 53,381
Issue 52 - Contains sides for the second companionway ladder, grating hand rail parts, turned columns, wood strips and another 12-pounder gun; and has instruction for the making and fitting of both companionway ladders, the fitting of the grating hand rails and the fitting of the bitts, (the first pair of ladder sides and two tread strips were supplied within issue 34).

Assemble the gun kit as per your chosen guise, and carefully store the 3x3mm & 1x3mm strips and turned columns.

Companionway ladders - You will need to make two ladders which will be located into the ladderwell of the medium and large gratings, the ladder treads are cut from 1x5mm strip.

Take one of the ladder sides and hold it down through the ladderwell of either the large or medium grating, so that the bottom of the ladder side sits on the deck below and that the slots for the treads look level, then make a pencil mark in line with the top of the grating. Before cutting to length, cut a second ladder side to match making sure you have a left and right pair, and that the lengths are exactly the same, and that the slots for the treads align from one ladder side to the other.

Cut a flat on the tops of the ladder sides about 3mm long and square to the tread slots, this is so that the ladder sits firmly against the edge of the grating; then make up seven treads by cutting strips of 1x5mm wood, each tread being exactly 31mm long.

Take the two ladder sides and check that the treads have a snug sliding fit into the ladder sides, if not, gently sand the end of the tread so that you get a slide-in snug fit.
Now take the two ladder sides and two treads and glue them together making sure that they are square and flat, and allow to thoroughly dry before continuing, then slide/glue the rest of the treads into place.

Ensure you have the ladder the right way round in relation to how each is positioned in the ladderwell, apply glue at the top and bottom of the ladder then locate the ladder in place.
If by chance your unlucky enough to drop the ladder inside of the hull, tip the model so that the ladder slides to the stern, where it can be easily extracted.

The ladder build process is repeated for the second ladder/grating ladderwell, ensure that both ladders are located so that they slope towards each other, i.e. located on the correct side of the grating.

Grating Handrails - You will require 8 eyebolts (4 per ladderwell) and the brown thread.
Start by drilling four 0.7mm holes 2mm deep around the entrance of the ladderwell, then insert one eyebolt into each hole, but do not glue at this stage as you may find it easier to glue the thread with an eyebolt removed, (store the excess eyebolts for later use).

Insert the thread through an eyebolt and fold a short length back on itself, then glue to create a splice; then thread it through the other eyebolts taking note as to the orientation of the thread in relation to the stairwell, cut the thread to length at the opposite side leaving enough to make another splice.
Repeat for the handrail of the second companionway taking note as to its orientation in relation to the opposite ladderwell.

Fitting the bitts - The bitts were constructed in issue 47 and need to be attached to the deck just to the rear of the medium grating forward of the main mast. A reinforcement joint needs to be made for the securing of the bitts to the deck.
Drill a 0.7mm hole about 6/7mm deep in the bottom of each leg of the bitts, make sure the hole is drilled central and upright.
Cut the heads off two planking pins, and glue each into the holes drilled (with the point facing outwards), which should protrude about 3mm.
Position the bitts centrally against the edge of medium grating, gently push down on the bitts to make two positioning marks in the deck - DO NOT try and push the bitts all the way into the deck without first drilling 0.7mm holes at the marks, as you make crack the decking; then glue the bitts in place using superglue.

That's it for this week!

Issue 53 - Contains wood strips for the deck support beams of the centre and forward section of the quarterdeck; and has instruction for the height adjustment of central span of deck supports, the fitting of the deck support beams of the centre and forward section of the quarterdeck, and the assembly of the ship's wheel.

Issue 54 - Contains wood strips for the decking & deck support beams, pins and a length of 8mm dowel; and has instruction for the continuation of installing the main deck beams, trimming the tops of the frames and planking of the quarterdeck - The dowel is used as a test piece for the mizzen mast, where holes will need to be formed in the deck support beam and deck.

Issue 55 - Contains wood strips for the making of the centre pin rails, 30 metal belaying pins and another 12-pounder gun; and has instruction for finishing the quarterdeck openings and constructing the centre pin rails.

Issue 56 - Contains quarterdeck planking strips, cabin partition parts, wood strips, eyebolts and yellow acetate sheet imprinted with gallery windows; and has instruction for the completion of the quarterdeck planking and the cutting of the quarterdeck gun ports.
Tomick attached the following image(s):
V52.JPG
V52-1.JPG
V52-2.JPG
V52-3.JPG
V52-4.JPG
V52-5.JPG
V52-6.JPG
V52-7.jpg
V52-8.jpg
V52-9.JPG
V52-10.JPG
V52-11.JPG
Tomick
#4 Posted : 30 March 2011 09:45:28

Rank: Newbie
Build-Diary Medal: Build-Diary Medal of HonourPublisher Medal: Article published MedalActive Service Medal: 500 post active service MedalPurple Medal: Super active service medal for 1000 postsRed Medal: Red MedalTurquoise Medal: Turquoise Medal for model making know-how contribution
Groups:

Joined: 08/03/2010
Posts: 19,138
Points: 53,381
Issue 53 - Contains wood strips for the deck support beams of the centre and forward section of the quarterdeck; and has instruction for the height adjustment of central span of deck supports, the fitting of the deck support beams of the centre and forward section of the quarterdeck, and the assembly of the ship's wheel.

Frame heights - Take a spare plank, and hold it against the deck beam supports of frames 17-21 to make sure that they are all the same height. Note that there is a gentle curve from bow to stern, so the plank will not sit perfectly straight. Use a sharp knife or razor saw to trim down any supports which are over the height of the plank, and recheck with the plank.

Deck support beams - Each deck support beam is made up of two lengths, which are notched to fit around the hull frames. Note that the supports at frame 14 are cut short, as they fall in line with the hole of the fore mast.

Start at frame 12, and measure across the full width of the frame between the inner faces of the hull planks, then cut two lengths of 1.5x6mm strip to the same length you have measured.
Note that because of the inward curve of the bow, you will have to shorten the front part of the deck support beam and cut the ends at an angle to fit.

Now measure the width of the upward-projecting sections of the frame, this will give you the depth of notch needed at the end of the deck support beam.
Cut out notches in the ends of the two beam lengths, the notch in each beam length should be 2mm wide (half the thickness of the frame), and should be long enough to clear the side of the frame.

Try the beam lengths in position around frame 12, trim them until you have a snug fit and that both beam lengths fit together and sit flat and without bow from one frame deck support to the other.
Remove the beam lengths and glue them together and allow to dry on a flat surface, then glue the beam into position.

Repeat this process to add a deck beam to frame 13, then frames 15 to 21 - DO NOT add a full width beam to frame 14.
For frame 14, cut four 20mm lengths of 1.5x6mm strip, and cut notches in the end of each to clear the ends of frame 14, glue these pieces together, and when dry fit these pieces onto the deck supports of frame 14.

This complete's the deck support beams of the centre and forward section of the quarterdeck, in the next issue you will add the balance of the deck beam supports.

The ships wheel - The parts for the ships wheel were provided with issue 45, and are assembled now, ready to install the completed wheel assembly to the deck at a later issue.

Start by drilling a 0.7mm hole into one end of each wheel support, these holes will be used to pin the wheel in position when it is installed.

Two options are given for the wheel finish: Paint the wheels brass or brown.

Spray the wheels with metal primer (if painting brown also prime the three brass bushes, if painting gold leave the bushes as they are), then paint with your chosen finish.
When fully dry, superglue one wheel onto the brass wire followed by the three brass bushes (making sure you have an excess of wire that will protrude the upright), then add the second wheel, making sure that the handles of the wheel align.

If you have opted for the natural finish, stain the uprights a dark colour of your choice, if you have opted for the painted version, paint the uprights black.

Glue the wheel uprights onto the brass wire of the wheel assembly, then cut the surplus wire and smooth the ends with a needle file (being careful not to damage the finish of the uprights) - Carefully store the ships wheel assembly.

That's it for this week!

Issue 54 - Contains wood strips for the decking & deck support beams, pins and a length of 8mm dowel; and has instruction for the continuation of installing the main deck beams, trimming the tops of the frames and planking of the quarterdeck - The dowel is used as a test piece for the mizzen mast, where holes will need to be formed in the deck support beam and deck.

Issue 55 - Contains wood strips for the making of the centre pin rails, 30 metal belaying pins and another 12-pounder gun; and has instruction for finishing the quarterdeck openings and constructing the centre pin rails.

Issue 56 - Contains quarterdeck planking strips, cabin partition parts, wood strips, eyebolts and yellow acetate sheet imprinted with gallery windows; and has instruction for the completion of the quarterdeck planking and the cutting of the quarterdeck gun ports.

Issue 57 - Contains assorted wood strips, and has instruction for the lining of the bulwarks and cut outs, adding the below poop deck gun support rails and preparing the cabin partitions.
Tomick attached the following image(s):
V53.JPG
V53-1.JPG
V53-2.JPG
V53-3.JPG
V53-4.JPG
V53-5.JPG
V53-6.JPG
V53-7.JPG
V53-8.JPG
V53-9.JPG
V53-10.JPG
Tomick
#5 Posted : 07 April 2011 10:00:28

Rank: Newbie
Build-Diary Medal: Build-Diary Medal of HonourPublisher Medal: Article published MedalActive Service Medal: 500 post active service MedalPurple Medal: Super active service medal for 1000 postsRed Medal: Red MedalTurquoise Medal: Turquoise Medal for model making know-how contribution
Groups:

Joined: 08/03/2010
Posts: 19,138
Points: 53,381
Issue 54 - Contains wood strips for planking the deck & deck support beams, plus pins and a length of dowel; and has instruction for the continuation of the main deck beams, trimming the tops of frames and the planking of the quarterdeck.

The parts supplied complete the deck support beams and enable you to lay the first 17 planks in the central deck area outlined in yellow (see final photo).
The quarterdeck will be completed in issue 56, where additional planks are supplied to complete the deck The decking needs to be sanded smooth as its a feature point of the model, so you only apply the simulated nail heads and plank joins AFTER the deck has been sanded.

The 8mm dowel is used as a test piece to allow the fitting of planking around the mast, it will also be used in later issues so don't discard it.

Balance of the main deck support beams - The rest of the deck support beams are fitted in a similar way to those you added in issue 53. However, this time because of the angle of some of the frames you'll need to assemble some of the beams within the hull.

Ensure the 8mm dowel fits into the mizzen mast hole, and goes all the way to the bottom, you'll find it easier to insert if you sand a bevel on one end.

Using the same method as in issue 53, cut two beams to fit at the frame closet to the stern (frame 30), due to the shape of frame 30, you cannot insert the beam in one piece, so glue the pieces together at the same time as gluing them to the frame - Repeat for frames 28 and 27.

Cut the beams for frame 26, and use the dowel as a guide to make a cut-out to clear the mast, glue the beams in place being careful not to glue them to the dowel.

Fit and glue the last four beams in place on frames 22 to 25, and allow the glue to dry before continuing.

Trimming of the frames - Before planking the deck, you need to trim the frames that will be planked on the inside to form open bulwarks around the quarterdeck.

The #7 parts and frames 12 to 16, and 22 to 25 need to be reduced to 3mm thick - Make a 3mm gauge by gluing two scraps of 1.5mm strip together, and use this to mark a line 3mm from the outer planks on the #7 parts and on frames 12 to 16, and 22 to 25.
Then saw down the lines using a razor saw, note that you will have to cut away the excess wood on the #7 parts by using a knife, as there is no room to use a saw.
Remove the excess from each frame by sawing across the bottom, close to the deck support beam.

Cut the tops of frames 17-21 close to the bulwark, then remove by cutting close to the support beam. DO NOT trim the outer planking. You will plank over the frames later.

Planking the quarterdeck - This process needs careful reading of the steps, and don't forget to caulk each plank along one side as you go.

With the deck support beams fitted, you can lay the deck planking. This time, you will lay the central area, which includes leaving two openings, you'll find it helps if you number each beam in relation to the frame number.
Measure the width of the hull across each frame, divide by two and then mark the centre line down each beam. Then measure and mark a line 2.5mm to the port (left) of the centre line. You will use this line to position the first plank, which is the one that runs adjacent to the centre plank.

Align the first plank with the outside of the marks you made, running from the forward bulkhead to frame 20, you will need to make a cu-out for the fore mast.
Fit a second plank from frame 20 to 27, this plank will require cut-outs to fit around the main and mizzen masts, and complete the run by fitting a short plank at the stern.

You can now mark the positions of the openings in this deck.
Make a pencil mark on the plank directly over the front of the grating on the upper deck (3rd). Then make a second mark, directly over the bitts.
Make two more marks in line with the edges of the beams at frames 22 and 23.

Lay the centre plank from the bow to the mark you made over the front of the grating, leaving a gap with the ends cut to clear the mast holes.
Fit the next sections of planking from the mark you made over the bitts to the forward mark you made at frame 22, again leaving a gap to clear the main mast.
Fit the aft sections of the centre plank, running from frame 23 to frame 30, this time leaving a gap to clear the mizzen mast.

Fit a further three planks - one on the left, two on the right - inline with the planks fitted earlier, this will make a total width of five planks, with the centre plank in the middle - don't forget to make the cut-outs for the masts.
The parts of the first plank which overlay the openings will be removed at a later stage.

Add another six planks each side, running from one end of the large opening to the stern. A single plank is too short to reach the full length, so you will need to use two strips for each run. Stagger the joints between them so that they fall alternately on frames 27 and 28.

Add a further 15 strips at the bow, so that you have a total of 17 planks with the centre plank in the middle, you will trim their ends later.

Further work on the main deck planking is in 55 and is completed in 56.

That's it for this week!


Future issues:

Issue 55 - Contains wood strips, metal belaying pins and another 12-pounder gun; and has instruction for finishing the quarterdeck openings and constructing three centre pin rails.

Issue 56 - Contains quarterdeck planking strips, cabin partition parts, wood strips, eyebolts and yellow acetate sheet imprinted with gallery windows; and has instruction for the completion of the quarterdeck planking and the cutting of the quarterdeck gun ports.

Issue 57 - Contains assorted wood strips, and has instruction for the lining of the bulwarks and cut outs, adding the below poop deck gun support rails and preparing the cabin partitions.

Issue 58 - Contains assorted wood strips, grating strips, knees, flag locker and skylight frames; and has further instruction for the cabin partitions (staining, glazing and fitting), painting of the bulwarks, fitting of the ships wheel, fitting the poop deck support beams and planking the poop deck - In short, lot's to complete in 58!
Tomick attached the following image(s):
V54.JPG
V54-1.JPG
V54-2.JPG
V54-3.jpg
V54-4.JPG
V54-5.JPG
V54-6.JPG
V54-7.JPG
V54-8.JPG
V54-9.JPG
V54-10.JPG
V54-11.JPG
V54-12.JPG
V54-13.JPG
V54-14.JPG
V54-15.JPG
V54-16.JPG
V54-17.JPG
V54-18.JPG
V54-19.JPG
V54-20.jpg
Tomick
#6 Posted : 13 April 2011 19:25:12

Rank: Newbie
Build-Diary Medal: Build-Diary Medal of HonourPublisher Medal: Article published MedalActive Service Medal: 500 post active service MedalPurple Medal: Super active service medal for 1000 postsRed Medal: Red MedalTurquoise Medal: Turquoise Medal for model making know-how contribution
Groups:

Joined: 08/03/2010
Posts: 19,138
Points: 53,381
Issue 55 - Contains belaying pins, another 12-pounder gun, 5x5mm & 3x3mm wood strips; and has instruction for finishing the quarterdeck openings and the construction of three centre pin rails.

Assemble the gun and finish in your chosen guise.

Finishing the quarterdeck openings - Its time to finish off the large opening in the centre of the deck known as the Waist, and the small hatchway astern of the main mast.
Use a razor saw to cut away the section of the first quarterdeck plank which spans the central opening, being careful not to damage the handrail and canons below, then cut away the section of plank which spans the smaller opening in the same way.
Draw a straight line across the ends of the planks as close as possible to the edges of the large opening, and carefully sand the ends of the planks back to meet with the pencil line so that the opening is straight and smooth.

Construction of the centre pin rails - Victory has three pin rails on the quarterdeck: two by the fore mast and one by the main mast.
The parts are to be cut now and dry assembled, DO NOT glue the parts together until they are being installed on the model which is to ensure an accurate fit.

You will need to carefully follow the magazine steps for the cut/marking dimensions of the upright posts and rails.

Steps 1-8 show the making of six upright posts, all are 15mm tall and are cut from 5x5mm wood strip.
You will also need to drill the base of each post which is used to insert pins into the posts, which are for securing the pin rails onto the deck.

Steps 9-11 shows the making of two rails 42mm long and one rail 48mm long which are cut from 3x3mm strip - Each rail has nine holes drilled, 3mm apart which run along the centre line.

If you have opted for the painted version of the model, the pin rails/posts are painted black, if the natural version these should be stained with a colour of you choice, and in both cases do not paint/stain the rail slots in the posts.

Carefully store the remaining parts and pin rails for later use.

That's it for this week!

Future issues:

Issue 56 - Contains quarterdeck planking strips, cabin partition parts, wood strips, eyebolts and yellow acetate sheet imprinted with gallery windows; and has instruction for the completion of the quarterdeck planking and the cutting of the quarterdeck gun ports.

Issue 57 - Contains assorted wood strips, and has instruction for the lining of the bulwarks and cut outs, adding the below poop deck gun support rails and preparing the cabin partitions.

Issue 58 - Contains assorted wood strips, grating strips, knees, flag locker and skylight frames; and has further instruction for the cabin partitions (staining, glazing and fitting), painting of the bulwarks, fitting of the ships wheel, fitting the poop deck support beams and planking the poop deck.

Issue 59 - Contains assorted wood strips, turned deck columns, skid beams, ladder sides, L shaped rail supports, eyebolts, thread, belfry parts and cleats; and has instruction for the finishing of the poop deck, making the timberheads, lining the quarterdeck opening and making the companionways.
Tomick attached the following image(s):
V55.JPG
V55-1.jpg
V55-2.JPG
V55-3.JPG
V55-4.JPG
Users browsing this topic
Guest
Forum Jump  
You cannot post new topics in this forum.
You cannot reply to topics in this forum.
You cannot delete your posts in this forum.
You cannot edit your posts in this forum.
You cannot create polls in this forum.
You cannot vote in polls in this forum.

Powered by YAF | YAF © 2003-2009, Yet Another Forum.NET
This page was generated in 0.231 seconds.
DeAgostini