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2001 Discovery build Options
darbyvet
#1 Posted : 21 November 2018 02:55:48

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So here is my build of Moebius models 1/144 Discovery XD-1 kit.As Nemesis has already posted it is a really nice kit.The kit does not come with any lighting or interior detail so I will be using some details and lighting sets as well as adding some 3d printed parts for the interior.

I started with the reactor module.There is a steel pin that goes from the command sphere to the rear of the reactor module.Since I am lighting the engines I cut the pin to allow me to wire up the middle engine (the pin extends into this part in the stock build).I 3d printed a block to anchor the pin into.

I am putting a 9V battery in the reactor module so I modified the reactor module so I could open it after the model was finished to replace the battery.

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darbyvet
#2 Posted : 21 November 2018 03:03:05

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At the front of the reactor module there are some parts that transition the module to the spine.The assembled these and then started work on the engines.

Apparently in the original movie the engines are never shown lit, but the lighting kit I bought had 6 LEDs for the engines and some clear parts to replace the nozzles . Each engine is made up of 2 parts.There is a baffle in the parts that you need to cut back to pass the wires through.Once these were cut I assembled the 2 engine parts and then sprayed them flat black to prevent light leakage.I wired the LEDs together and passed the wires down the body of the engine and places the clear part over the LEDS to be painted later on.

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darbyvet
#3 Posted : 21 November 2018 03:55:53

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The majority of the parts in the kit are for the spine and the modules that attach to the spine.The model is 41 inches long and so there are lots of modules to build.There are 5 basic modules and these attach to the spine in a specific order.The central part of the spine has the radar antenna on it.Assembly of these parts was easy but time consuming.

I made the parts for the spine and then attached them between the reactor module and the central antenna.

If this was an out of the box build you would be almost done.The command sphere is made up of 2 parts and the collar and the shoulder parts.

I decided to add a cockpit and pod bay interior.There are several aftermarket parts you can buy.Paragrafix makes a really nice photoetched set that has the walls and floor and ceiling of the pod bay.It also has parts for the Hal platform in the center of the pod bay.They also sell a cockpit kit which has a pretty decent representation of the cockpit and the corridor behind the cockpit that leads to HAls room.

HDAmodelworks makes decal sets for the pod bay and cockpit and I got some 3d printed pods from Shapeways.

The parts look good but seemed a bit flat to me so I designed some parts to 3d print to add to the paragrafix parts for the pod bay and cockpit.

I also designed some parts for the Athena room.This is a room off to the side of the pod bay that features prominently in the movie. Finally I made some pod platforms.I want to have a couple of the pod bay doors open and display one pod outside of the pod bay to recreate the scene in the movie where the astronauts venture outside of the Discovery.


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Markwarren
#4 Posted : 21 November 2018 07:50:03

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Lovely work Carl, the lighting effect are looking superb.Love

Mark
roymattblack
#5 Posted : 21 November 2018 10:29:36

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It looks amazing.
...and I thought 1/8 scale cars were big!
michael.rolph
#6 Posted : 21 November 2018 10:56:19

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Looking good are you going to get Leonov kit to go with it?
darbyvet
#7 Posted : 21 November 2018 16:25:06

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michael.rolph wrote:
Looking good are you going to get Leonov kit to go with it?



I saw that but the castings look pretty bad to me so I will pass on it.

Carl

Thanks everyone for your comments

Nemesis
#8 Posted : 21 November 2018 19:02:24

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It is a fantastic kit and is quite big when finished. Once all my spine is done I will start on the lighting of the engines.Looking good!Cool Cool
darbyvet
#9 Posted : 22 November 2018 02:22:52

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OK moving on to the pod bay.The paragrafix photoetched set provides the floor ceiling and walls for the pod bay.It is really nice, but a bit flat so I made some parts to make the pod bay have a 3d feel.The HDA modelworks decals are great for the magnetic pads on the floor of the pod bay ans also have details for the oxygen tanks.I cut out the etched tanks and made some boxes to put the 3d printed tanks in. There are 3 platforms on the floor and a central console with a HAL9000 on it. The paragrafix set has a console that you can make by folding the etch into a box.It is such a prominent feature of the pod bay so I made a 3d part out of clear resin so I could put a LED into the part to light it up.I also made a hole for Hals eyes that would have a fiber optic cable in it and a blue smd was used for the screen next to HAL.

There are three pod platforms.I decided to have 1 pod in the bay and one outside and I left the third platform empty so you could see the pod bay through the open pod bay door.the platforms have holes in them to feed fiber optics through the light the pods.I used 2.4 mm square brass tube for the platform supports.Theses were big enough to thread fiber optics through for the pod outside of the bay.

I also bought some figures from shapeways and used them for the spacesuit and helmet.

The ceiling was made from the paragrafix parts and some 3d printed parts.I used PICO SMDs for the lights
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darbyvet
#10 Posted : 22 November 2018 02:25:11

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Here are the parts for the pod bay
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darbyvet
#11 Posted : 22 November 2018 02:26:29

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test fitting the primed 3d parts
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darbyvet
#12 Posted : 22 November 2018 02:31:09

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Here is the clear central console with the HAL9000.It was printed with a Form2 SLA 3d printer which can produce highly detailed parts that dont need any sanding.I painted the part with Tamiya white primer and then black.I scraped the paint off the lights at the back of the console and placed a 3mm LED in the bottomw of the console to light it up.

I also placed the supports for the brass tubes under the pod bay floor.



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darbyvet
#13 Posted : 22 November 2018 02:36:50

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With the 3d parts glued in place I painted the pod bay parts and then started applying the HDAmodelworks decals.

I put the central console in place and used a 0.5mm LED for HAls red eye, a blue smd for the monitor next to HAL and a 3mm white LED in the base of the console.The wires and fibers were fed through a hole in the pod bay floor behind the console.

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CaptnBirdseye
#14 Posted : 22 November 2018 10:17:48

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very interesting build Carl ThumpUp
Will be interesting to see what you make of her.

Regards
Gray

Current Builds: 1/12 Spitfire, 1/90 Santisima Trinidad, 1/60 Sultan Arab Dhow, 1/72 Airfix Vulcan, Ugears U9 Grand Prix Car, Valentino Rossi Yamaha YZR-M1, Italeri 1:12 Alfa Romeo 179
Markwarren
#15 Posted : 22 November 2018 14:15:37

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Taking shape quite quickly. Looking good.

Mark
darbyvet
#16 Posted : 23 November 2018 01:11:20

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Next step is the Athena room.This is the room behind the window of the pod bay.It has a console with Hal on it and a ladder which leads to the cockpit.
This was made from 3 printed parts-the room itself, the console and the ladder.I put red and blue filter film on the back of the console to make the monitors and put an SMD behind the console to backlight it.I used a fiber optic cable to represent HALs eye and more firber optic cables to light the keyboards on the console.Finally I added an SMD at the top of the tunnel where the ladder is to light the room.This was then glued to the back of the pod bay wall after a test fitting to make sure it would fit inside the lower hull.It was a tight fit.


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darbyvet
#17 Posted : 23 November 2018 01:22:20

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The final part of building the pod bay was to attach the ceiling, place a pod inside the bay and work on the pod extended outside of the pod bay.

I used SMD and lightboxes for the ceiling lights and painted one the falconware shapeways pods and put it on the far left platform. I didnt light this pod because the pods didnt light up in the movie until they were in the launch position.

The pods are hollow so it was easy to put a pico smd in the pod itself.I drilled out the front window and used a piece of red filter to diffuse the light from the smd.For the 4 headlights I used 0.5mm fiber optic cables that were fed through the bottom of the pod ,through the hole in the platform and down through the brass tubes.Once the pod and platform were installed I glued a white led to the back wall of the pod bay wall and used that to light the fiber optics.There is a also a red HAL eye on the front of the pod so I used a 0.25 mm fiber optic and threaded it the same as the others and attached it to a red LED behind the pod bay wall.
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darbyvet
#18 Posted : 23 November 2018 01:25:21

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the launching pod
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darbyvet
#19 Posted : 23 November 2018 01:32:31

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The pod was installed into the bay and everything was wired up and tested.It took a bit of gymnastics to get it into the lower hull.I will paint the lower hull first and then install the interior during final assembly because it would be a nightmare to mask off the pod.

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darbyvet
#20 Posted : 23 November 2018 02:12:01

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A quick comment about photography.

Photographing models with LEDs in them is quite tricky. The problem is the LEDs tend to wash out in the picture.You can look at a model with your eyes and it looks fine but when you photograph it the LEDS look way too bright.They key to getting good photos is to dim the LEDs so they dont washout.However if you do that the light looks way too dim when you look with your eyes.

You can adjust the brightness of the LEDs by using different resistors,but that is a permanent change.You can put potentiometers into the circuit so you can control the voltage that is fed to the LEds, but this model has about 50 LEDS in it and some need to be brighter than others so it would get very complex to figure out how to wire everything up.

SO my solution was to use a variable output DC power supply for the photographs instead of the 9V battery.When I display the model the 9V batter supplies the power and the LEDS are nice and bright.

LEDS take take voltages from 3-9V provided they have a resistor attached to them.

So I attached the DC power supply to the battery connector and then adjusted the voltage until I could get photos that did not have washed out LEDs. I found that 3-4 V is what I needed.If you look at these parts with your naked eye you could barely tell the LEDS were lit, but once photographed they looked just the right brightness.

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