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ID Box - Heating problem. Options
Builder1000
#1 Posted : 03 March 2019 15:24:53

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I am now at the point of testing the extruder on my 3D printer. I follow the book's instructions and nothing much happens. After 1 hour it had heated up by 2 degrees celsius, reaching a max of 23 degrees. I feel this is not right. Can anyone offer some advice on what I can check or change to try and get this working please. I posted on here about my axis problem and through lots of helpful comments I was able to resolve it. I am hoping this may happen a second time.
arpurchase
#2 Posted : 03 March 2019 16:06:07

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Hi the info below should help-

So I opened repetier host.I then disabled repetier server by doing the following;

CLick on the server button at the top of the screen

Click on "stop local server"

I then turned off the repetier heated bed option and set the nozzle temp to 210 degree;

CLick on config and then Printer settings.Under the printer tab on this box set default extruder temp to 210 and default bed temp to 0

I then clicked on Connect.Once the printer has connected click on manual control at the top right of the screen

Once the manual control box opens there should be a red line across the bed icon and the extruder.Click on the extruder icon and the temp should start to rise.

You can also try manually moving the x and y axis to check the printer is working

WHile you are waiting for the nozzle to get to temp load your print file.CLick on cura slice to slice it

Once it is done slicing click on the g code editor and find the m190 s50 command and set the 50 to 0.Save the file.

GO back to the manual control screen and wait for the nozzle temp to get to 210.If is doesnt go above 200 you may need to enter 210 in the box at the right of the line showing the nozzle temp

Once the nozzle is at 210 go back to the print preview screen and press print.The table should lower all the way down and the print head should home itself on the x and y axis.If you get the grinding noise you forgot to adjust your x and y limit switches.

As soon as the print bed approaches its upper limit malted filament should start coming out of the nozzle and the nozzle should move to the center of the pritn bed and start printing.


Also try this:-

The issue may be the g code of the print.In many 3d files there is a g code instruction at the start of the g code which tells repetier host to wait until the print bed is up to temperature.The IDBOX printer does not have a heated print bed so the program never gets beyond this step. Here is a description of how to fix it and my protocol for printing.I have been printing with my IDBOX for 3 months and it is working really well.


Did you check the g code to see if it is waiting for the bed to heat up.I had the same problem and discovered there was a command at the start of the g code that told the printer to waiting until the bed had heated up before starting the print so repetier host wont print because the bed is not heated.This happens even if you turn off the bed in the manual control screen.

If you look at the g code in the g code editor screen you will see a command to wait for the printer bed to heat up;

The command is M190 S50

M190 refers to the bed and the S50 tells repetier host to wait until the bed is heated to 50 degrees to start printing.

All you need to do is change the code to M190 S0 and the printer should start printing.



Here is how I do my prints;

1.Load the object file into repetier host. Scale it to the size I want, center it and then slice it with curaengine.

2.Once the slicing has finished I check the g code to look for the M190 command and make sure the s is set to 0.

3.I always use a raft because often the first part of the print doesnt stick well to the bed (common to all 3d printers).The raft makes sure that once you actually start printing the object the filament is sticking down really well.

4.I then go to the manual control screen and turn the extruder on.

5.For PLA I set the extruder temp to 210 degrees.

6.Once the extruder is at working temp I press on the extruder button (set to 10) in the manual control to extrude so filament to see if it is melting OK.I find it is easier to do this now before the print table is really close to the print head.

7.I then go to the print menu and start the print. The printer will home the x and y axis and then the print bed will lower all the way down to it home position for the z axis and then move back up to the print head.As it gets close to the print head (within 20mm) the print head should start moving to the center of the print bed.The filament will start extruding.

8. The raft prints first.Then it will print your object.There is a timer telling you how long the print will take.
Current builds:-C57,Zero, Lamborghini Countach, Caldercraft HMS Agamemnon,Robi,R2-D2, MFH Cobra .

BertRands
#3 Posted : 20 August 2019 18:29:45

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Hi...If you heat on the box does the error occur too? At what temp? Does it reach your target temp? Gets the hotend hot?
Heating failed comes normally if the temperature does not increase by certain amount over time, aka the heater need too much time, or the sensor does not read the temperature correct..
darbyvet
#4 Posted : 21 August 2019 02:27:41

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I am not sure if you are asking a question BertRands, but there are several potential reasons why the nozzle does not heat up.

The first issue is with the gcode.You must ensure the gcode does not have a command to heat the print bed.I outlined above how to correct the code so it doesnt wait for the bed to heat up.

The other issues would be either a faulty heating element of a faulty thermistor.
The first thing to do is make sure the gcode is correct and then switch out the thermistor or heating element.

Carl

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