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Sword Beach D-Day Landings Options
Plymouth57
#161 Posted : 11 October 2020 20:40:59

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Many thanks again to Tony, Mark, Phil and Derek!Blushing Things are coming along now and I've just got the first two buildings on the base as you'll see below!

As the first trial run in miniature house painting I decided to go for the trio of shops, mainly because they are off to the far right ‘off centre’ as it were, and also because there was more I could try out on them than the basic houses. Photo 1 shows the first of the resin castings, the ‘double shop’ in the process of priming with Vallejo Grey Primer. Photo 2 isn’t one of the shops of course but the Half Timbered House. This was one of the reject castings (because I couldn’t sand the base flat!)Blushing Other than that it was OK so I used it as a guinea pig to try out various combinations of window painting over a single primer coat. I tried various shades of grey for the window recesses (on the other walls as well) and different types of white paint for the frames, even painting a whole window in gloss white enamel and then using acrylic black ink to fill in the panes leaving the frames showing through in white – that actually worked quite well but in the end I decided on plain black for the windows with Mig Satin Black with Mig Matt White for the frames (second from the right on the bottom row in this pic). The next step was to give the shop walls a touch of colour as shown in Photo 3. This was the first problem – I didn’t have any suitable pastel shades of paint so the blue and green seen here was created from a darker shade of blue and green Vallejo acrylic mixed with the matt white. The problem is, I only made enough to paint the castings with a couple of coats, if I make a big mess later on I can’t simply ‘re-touch’ the base colour! (Mind you, with all the shell damage I can always add some more scorch marks!) The single shop is shown in Photo 4 with a nice ‘magnolia’ wall paint – or in this case, Vallejo Tan Yellow mixed with white. This one will be having a red tile roof (once my bottle of Vallejo Terracotta arrives), the double shop will be having a slate grey roof.
The trial window painting taught me a few things, first of which was I needed a new ‘best’ detail brush! My new set is shown in Photo 5 – a set of six ranging from 000 through 00, 0, 1, 2 and 4 (wonder what happened to 3?) The ones in the card don’t look very straight but they always do until they are straightened up in clean water before use. These were Ebay of course, just over £6 for the set, which is pretty good value considering how much they cost individually in art shops. My old ‘best brush’ is shown in close up against the new one in Photo 6, Old Faithful is probably 25 to 30 years old now, only ever used for water based paints and still gives good service – just not so good as the new one! Shown above the brushes is the first section of windows underway. The process is long and very delicate: first the windows are painted in with the black. Once dry, the outer white frames are painted in. Note the roof hasn’t been painted yet, this is because of the handling and resting on various edges that the windows require. The window frames have to be painted horizontally to avoid overshooting or smudging. The house is rested upright to paint the bottom frames, on its right side for the right hand frames, on its left for the lefts and upside down for the top ones! If I painted the roof first there wouldn’t be much paint left at the edges by the time I’d finished one wall!Blink The inner ‘cross’ frames can be painted ‘right way up’ but with even more care required. Sometimes a repeat procedure is required, a splotched outer frame needs the black to be re-applied to tidy it up and if the cross frame goes wrong its easier to paint it out and re-do it once the black is dry again. One of the large walls on the double shop building actually went perfectly and no window needed re-touching, I was really chuffed with that one! As for the others – well we got there in the end! During my web searching looking for Frenchie looking shops I found an excellent pic of 1940’s era shop signs. Some blown up (I mean enlarged) examples are shown in Photo 7 with the whole page-full at normal size. As one of the doubles was painted blue, I decided to make it a fishmongers, (and I did remember enough of school French to know it wasn’t a shop for selling poison!) The others required a trip to the on-line translation. The ‘Poissonnerie’ together with a bread and Michelin advert are shown in Photo 8, one of the nicer looking signs turned out to be a Blacksmith’s which seemed a little out of place on the sea front! The green shop beside it became an ‘Epicerie’ or Grocer’s whilst the little single shop called ‘The Emperor’s House’or ‘Maison Empereur’ is a Restaurant with delusions of grandeur, (the other side door says ‘Café’)! In Photo 9, the grey slate roof is finally painted in with Vallejo Blue Grey, in the photo the Grocer’s is basic grey whilst the Fishmonger’s has been dry brushed with a light grey mix to bring out the tile detail. Note also where the roofs are damaged up to the edge, I’ve painted the terracotta and its lighter version to simulate the damaged walls beneath. Now came the sneaky bit. The windows are moulded with frames, which have to be painted in, but the dormer windows in the roof are moulded flat and featureless (except for the Hotel dormers which are moulded in and I’ll have to paint those). This is where the good old white decal inkjet paper came in again. Using the ancient Corel Print House design program I made up a simple set of black rectangles with a white cross superimposed over the top. I then reduced the design down until it was the same size as the dormers on the models, this is shown in Photo 10 with a close up view below. This was printed out onto the top edge of the decal paper, allowed to dry overnight and then given a coat of spirit based varnish to seal the design in. In hindsight I should have left a slightly larger gap between them but never mind! These were carefully cut out with a safety razor blade leaving a thin border to provide the outer frame and then dampened with Humbrol Decalfix and then left on a scrap of plasticard to release from the backing as shown in Photo 11. When they were movable I slid them across with fine tweezers and gently picked them up to place on the dormer window faces as seen in Photo 12. The long awaited (actually it didn’t take long at all to come) Vallejo Terracotta is used to paint the red tile roof of the Maison Empereur Restaurant in Photo 13. Compare the ‘bare’ paint finish with the dry-brushed finished roof in the following photos, the detail brought out with the lighter highlights makes all the difference! The ‘Empereur’ sign is actually in place in this shot, but is very difficult to see at this angle. Photo 14 shows the latest addition to the decal collection, again using the Print House program, I created a set of different sized French flags to be waving from the liberated houses. I actually made a big ‘boo boo’ with this lot – I should have designed the flags with a mirror image down the centre like the British Ensigns and flags above but totally forgot! So now, instead of cutting the decal out and folding it at the flag staff end, they are cut out twice as high and folded over at the top. Doesn’t make too much difference fortunately and the finished flags are seen in Photos 15, 16 and 17. Note the missing top of the drainpipe on the restaurant (caused by an air bubble during casting) has been added in with stretched sprue, damaged and bent outwards for better effect. I took some of the unused figures from the damaged fret and painted them up to represent ‘civvies’, they can be seen on the pavements before the shops were added in Photo 18 and also one stood by the shelled window on the upper floor of the restaurant proudly draping a British flag out of the hole!
Finally the finished section is shown in Photo 19 with the civvies and buildings all in place. One thing I’m still considering is telephone poles! A set of them comes with the European Buildings set – they are over scale and the wrong shape as I’ve discovered looking at French telephone poles on D-Day photos but I’m still toying with the idea of scratch building some in brass rod and using EZ Line to add the wires – it might add a little more ‘3D’ height to the street scene. But we’ll see later!
In the next installment, its on to the two houses and hotel – I’m not looking forward to that hotel – not counting the dormer windows which I’ll have to paint, the ruddy thing’s got 108 windows to do!Crying
Until then, stay safe and Happy Modelling to you All!

Robin.
Plymouth57 attached the following image(s):
Painting the shops pic 1.JPG
Painting the shops pic 2.JPG
Painting the shops pic 3.JPG
Painting the shops pic 4.JPG
First wooden ship: The Grimsby 12 Gun 'Frigate' by Constructo Second: Bounty DelPrado Part Works Third: HMS Victory DelPrado Part Works 1/100 scale
Diorama of the Battle of the Brandywine from the American Revolutionary War Diorama of the Battle of New Falkland (unfinished sci-fi), Great War Centenary Diorama of the Messines Ridge Assault
Index for the Victory diary is on page 1
birdaj2
#162 Posted : 11 October 2020 21:30:03

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Very nice buildings Robin.

Spot on for the location and very neatly painted.

Tony
Happy Modelling

BUILDING: Harley Davidson Fat boy, Lam. Countach, Hachette Spitfire Mk 1A, Constructo Mayflower
COLLECTING 1:200 Bismarck (Hachette)
SUBSCRIPTION COMPLETE (Awaiting building): USS Constitution, Sovereign of the Seas
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Plymouth57
#163 Posted : 28 October 2020 21:33:32

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Many thanks for that Tony!Blushing
A couple of hectic weeks just gone by, managed to get the flu jab appointments for Mum and me (FINALLY!) Fortunately due to Mum's age etc etc, we were able to get them at the local surgery as usual - those more 'able bodied' have been forced to travel up to Ivybridge instead - a nine mile round trip! Crying The one mile round trip to the surgery in Mum's solid tyred, non suspension mobility scooter (affectionately called the 'Boneshaker') has finally convinced her to splash out on an upgraded version - pneumatic tyres, full suspension and a 30 mile range (as opposed to 10). Drive Envoy 4 (hasn't been christened yet) now lives in the garage and Boneshaker moved into the conservatory.BigGrin
Anyway, on with the miniscule mansions!

To start off the houses, Photo 1 shows the basic finish using my new Vallejo Terracotta acrylic. All the buildings were first primed with Vallejo Grey Primer applied by brush and then the hotel and the red brick house had all their walls given a couple coats of the Terracotta. The Half Timbered House would, I decided have a red brick ground floor and a timber and plaster upper story, which I painted in Vallejo Ivory to take the stark ‘whiteness’ away from the miniature. All the red brick walls were then given a dry brushing with Vallejo Brown Rose, which I actually bought last year to paint the Chindit’s lips with, but is a perfect ready mixed highlighter for the Terracotta base!Cool In Photo 2, its back to the poor old guinea pig half timbered house. After trying out the windows technique it was time to try out various colours for the timber frame. On closer inspection of photos of the Normandy area, I realised (just in time) that there is a subtle difference between the Olde English Elizabethan Half Tmbered houses and those of Normandy – the French ones don’t have black timbers! Unlike the English frames which are always painted/stained/preserved black, the French frames are either just natural wood, a darker brown stained wood or else painted in garish reds and yellows. The photo here shows a test of Vallejo Tan Yellow which didn’t look too bad which was then stained with Vallejo Wood Grain which didn’t look as good as the undercoat on its own! After trying a few other schemes I finally decided on painting the frame in Vallejo Carmine Red, which I think gave a suitably ‘Gallic’ impression compared to the traditional black and white on this side of the Channel. It was then time to begin the windows. To break up the monotony of painting window after window, I have been painting my way through all three of the buildings, I know they’re all windows but changing the models at least reduces the finger cramps from holding the same thing dead still for ages! Even using my double layered reading glasses technique (or perhaps because of it) the extreme concentration needed for window painting only lasts for a few minutes before vertigo creeps in!Blink Anyhow, by Photos 3 and 4, most of the two houses were fully glazed and the rear of the hotel was well under way – the upper end wall windows on the Half Timber and the top right window on the Red Brick have been re-blacked after messing up the cross frames! Photo 5 shows the completed model with the roof painted and dry brushed and the damaged areas of the wall highlighted with the Brown Rose. The dormer windows have been decaled with the same home made transfers and the arched windows down below have also had the same treatment with a dormer decal trimmed back to remove the side and bottom frames leaving the cross beams to fill in the window panes. Note the little half figure leaning out of the damaged window – another ‘de-mobbed’ ship’s crew to represent a civilian regaling his liberators with the traditional Normandy greeting “Mon Dieu! Regardez ma maison sanglante! C’est plein de trous sanglants! Qui va donc payer pour tout ca?” Now before gluing down the completed house, I wanted to add a couple of little trees to the garden. Photo 6 shows a bunch of plastic foliage I bought in the Poundshop three years back when I was trying to find something to make the oat plants for Frederick’s base terrain, (in the end I made those out of real grass seed heads with tissue paper leaves!) This item has been laying around the workroom ever since but now I’ve found a use for it. Photo 7 illustrates one of the tips of the foliage – the ‘twig’ is a brown polythene plastic which just push-fits on to the larger branch and is covered in what appears to be glued on tiny little round beads of green polystyrene. To make the trees I just had to snip off an individual clump with the micro scissors and ‘finger nail’ the excess beads off what would now become the trunk (I’m trying to save those beads – in this scale, cabbages?BigGrin ) The resulting sprig was then painted with Deluxe Card Glue and dipped into my plastic tub of Woodland Scenics ‘Fine Turf Green Grass’. After tapping off the excess turf the trees were pushed into a slab of plasticene as shown in Photo 8, to let the glue dry before carefully drilling two holes into the resin lawn and cementing the trees down with the same Card Glue as shown in the final Photo 9.
So that’s three down and two to go! In the next installment, completing the Half Timbered house and proceeding on with the bigger Hotel (who now holds the record for the most re-re-painted windows)!Blushing
Until then, stay safe and Happy Modelling to you All!

Robin.
Plymouth57 attached the following image(s):
Painting the houses pic 1.JPG
Painting the houses pic 2.JPG
First wooden ship: The Grimsby 12 Gun 'Frigate' by Constructo Second: Bounty DelPrado Part Works Third: HMS Victory DelPrado Part Works 1/100 scale
Diorama of the Battle of the Brandywine from the American Revolutionary War Diorama of the Battle of New Falkland (unfinished sci-fi), Great War Centenary Diorama of the Messines Ridge Assault
Index for the Victory diary is on page 1
birdaj2
#164 Posted : 28 October 2020 22:10:54

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Hi Robin

It certainly has been some strange times.

My spitfire build is still to be written up and posted but been side tracked for a short while due to a major family upset which i will touch on in my build diary rather than upsetting yours.

I have really enjoyed following your diary updates as they are so detailed and have provided some brilliant hints and tips.

Your houses are incredible at this scale with such fine detail.

Hope everything continues well.

Tony
Happy Modelling

BUILDING: Harley Davidson Fat boy, Lam. Countach, Hachette Spitfire Mk 1A, Constructo Mayflower
COLLECTING 1:200 Bismarck (Hachette)
SUBSCRIPTION COMPLETE (Awaiting building): USS Constitution, Sovereign of the Seas
COMPLETED: Porsche 911, E-Type Jaguar
delboy271155
#165 Posted : 28 October 2020 22:27:41

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Hi Robin, BigGrin

Excellent detailing as always. WTG

Cool Cool Cool Cool Cool


Regards
delboy271155
(Derek)
COME BACK GUY FAWKES "YOUR COUNTRY NEEDS YOU"






tf64
#166 Posted : 28 October 2020 23:06:16

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Hi Robin,

Thank you for showing us all your update, those houses are spot on this turning out to be a fab build.

Regards

Trev.

Building: Artesania Stage-Coach H.M.S.Victory / H.M.S. Victory Cross Section / De-Agostini Spitfire. / Short Sunderland 111 ( Flying Boat )

Full Kits: San Francisco. De-Ago Bremen. Sovereign of the seas. Artesania Stage-Coach.

Finished builds: Westland Lysander MK.11 plus large Diorama.

Markwarren
#167 Posted : 29 October 2020 10:43:50

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Hi Robin, just catching up.Cool

Excellent work as usual, those window frames must have took a very steady hand.Love Love

Mark
roymattblack
#168 Posted : 29 October 2020 11:47:55

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This is great!
It's difficult to believe how small those houses really are. Superb stuff.BigGrin

Roy.
Plymouth57
#169 Posted : 05 November 2020 20:34:47

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Grateful thanks as always to Tony, Derek, Trev, Mark and Roy!Blushing (Hope your problems are sorted soon Tony!)

Before carrying on with the next house, Mark’s comments about a ‘steady hand’ struck a chord so I thought I’d start with a quick explanation of just how I’ve been painting these buildings! I unfortunately used the hotel as the example (as that one comes in the next installment) but it’s bigger and easier to show on the photo!BigGrin
So, Photo 10 illustrates the position of the buildings during the ‘window work’. The miniature is being held at about a 45 degree angle, with the bottom rear edge flat on the work mat. The heel of the hand and the thumb are also resting on the mat which essentially results in a ‘tripod’ grip which is rock steady (except during a sneeze!) At the same time the paintbrush is held as shown in Photo 11, again, the heel of the hand is resting on the mat and the only movement to control the brush stroke comes from the thumb and forefinger grip. You have no idea how difficult this pic was to take! My digital camera is a Konica Minolta D’Image Z10 – a camera designed purely for two handed operation, held in the left hand and clicked with the right. This is ideal until you try to take a photo of your own right hand!Blink This shot was taken with the camera held upside down with the forefinger button pressed with the left hand thumb! With the miniature in this position I painted all the white lower sills. To paint the upper frames the building was held upside down, and the side frames required the model to be resting on it’s side edge! (This is the part you have to watch carefully that the paintwork on the corner of the wall doesn’t get worn away!) I’ve since bought another new detail brush for painting the inner cross frames, this one is a 4-0 or 0000 (about £3.60 on ebay). As you can tell from these shots, the roof gets quite a bit of handling (and resting on the mat) hence why it is not painted until all the wall painting and detail work is completed. And finally, Photo 12 shows the ‘paint pallet’. This is a piece of backing card from a section of self adhesive vinyl. The waxed card prevents the Vallejo or Mig acrylic from drying out too quick or soaking away as it would do on ordinary card. Each ‘blob’ is just a single drop of paint squeezed from the bottle into which the 00, 000 or 0000 brush is dipped (actually more like just touched’ before offering the tip up to the model.
Anyhow, that’s how I’ve been doing them! Back to the Half Timbered House then and Photo 13 shows the house with the windows all completed and the wooden framework painted with Vallejo Carmine Red. This has been given a very fine shadow line up against the wall with the 0000 brush and Citadel Skaven Brown Ink Wash (used virtually neat). The test fit of the house into the garden is shown in Photo 14 and before starting the slate roof I added some wooden colouring to the damaged parts of the frame. The roof was then painted in Vallejo Blue Grey and dry brushed with a light grey before adding the burn marks in dry-brushed black (mainly round the other side in Photo 15) and finally applying the dormer window decals as on the other houses. The final effect is shown in Photo 15 up against the traditional penny for size!
And finally, finally, the completed house is glued down in position in the garden along with the previously made (and miraculously undamaged) greenhouse in Photo 16. (I said those polystyrene micro balls would make good cabbages!)BigGrin
So that’s all the smaller building done now with just the ‘biggie’ to go. And fortunately, that one’s almost finished – just got the roof to complete and then the balcony railings with maybe a few civvies for good measure. That’s coming next so until then, stay safe and Happy Modelling to you All!

Robin.
Plymouth57 attached the following image(s):
Painting the houses pic 3.JPG
Painting the Houses pic 4.JPG
First wooden ship: The Grimsby 12 Gun 'Frigate' by Constructo Second: Bounty DelPrado Part Works Third: HMS Victory DelPrado Part Works 1/100 scale
Diorama of the Battle of the Brandywine from the American Revolutionary War Diorama of the Battle of New Falkland (unfinished sci-fi), Great War Centenary Diorama of the Messines Ridge Assault
Index for the Victory diary is on page 1
Gandale
#170 Posted : 05 November 2020 23:22:25

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Am really loving this one Robin, so much so I think it is probably the best dio you've done to date. The detail, care and attention you're applying is outstanding..... Very well done.....Love Love

Regards

Alan
birdaj2
#171 Posted : 05 November 2020 23:23:11

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Robin

When you see these houses against your hand it brings home just how small they are which makes the fact you have painted in all that fine detail even more amazing.

You gave made a fantastic job of your little houses as they look precise in shape and scale.



Things this end quite difficult at the moment as my dear mum passed away 2 weeks ago. I am 57 and never married.

Lived at home for years first looking after dad who went 7 years ago and now mum.

I have no close friends and just a brother, ex sister in law, niece and nephew. I must admit the quiet in the house at the moment is very difficult to cope with.

Its thanks to sites such as this that is keeping me going to be honest.

Hoping to get back to my builds soon. I have a write up to do on the spitfire and had the next set of lambourgini parts arrive.

Sadly my Harley was charged but chasing up the parts they are telling me they are waiting stock. I know they have had big problems with this one hut with just 2 packs to complete it i will be so disappointed if it all falls apart this close to the end of the build.

Sorry for “hogging” your build diary Robin.

Kind regards to you, and thanks for helping me focus with your brilliant build updates.

Tony
Happy Modelling

BUILDING: Harley Davidson Fat boy, Lam. Countach, Hachette Spitfire Mk 1A, Constructo Mayflower
COLLECTING 1:200 Bismarck (Hachette)
SUBSCRIPTION COMPLETE (Awaiting building): USS Constitution, Sovereign of the Seas
COMPLETED: Porsche 911, E-Type Jaguar
Markwarren
#172 Posted : 06 November 2020 08:59:38

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Very nice work RobinLove Love I do a similar thing when painting very fine detail, but one thing you forgot to mention, which I’m sure you do, is to hold your breath as well.LOL LOL

Great work.

Mark
tigerace
#173 Posted : 06 November 2020 16:26:37

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Great work as always Robin BigGrin love the green house and those cabbages BigGrin



Regards PhilCool
COMING SOON =1/9 Italeri Kettankrad and BMW R-75 Combination ON THE GO=1/35 Italeri S-38 Schnellboot, refurbishment of 1/25 Tamiya tiger 1 , amt Star trek kits and space 1999 models

So Much to Build,But What a Hobby!


Plymouth57
#174 Posted : 15 November 2020 21:50:02

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Many thanks indeed to Alan, Tony, Mark and Phil, gratefully received as always!Blushing
Mark, yes, you're spot on with the holding breath! In fact you may have answered a puzzling mystery - why do I keep waking up with a dizzy head at the bench with the outline of a 1/700 scale house embedded in my forehead!LOL
Tony, I was so sorry to hear of your dear Mum. Our circumstances are almost the same, we lost Dad suddenly about the same time and Mum who had almost never seen a doctor in her life had a nervous breakdown a year to the day after Dad's passing. She recovered from that eventually but has suffered with an ever increasing list of age related ailments ever since. The one that affects her the most is the Age Related Macular Degeneration which severely distorts her vision in her one good eye. A few years ago she was finally awarded Attendance Allowance which then permitted me to go for Carer's Allowance (my only income) which has been a fantastic help! Apart from all her old age thingies (she's 92 now) she is doing pretty well (better than me some days when this damned Irritable Bowel flares up (which I've noticed it has done far more since the Covid 'regime' took over! I am so glad that my diary updates can give you some pleasure in these trying times and I'm looking forward to your Spitfire 'coming soon'! Best of luck with everything mate!

So here comes the ‘biggie’ with all those 108 windows to do!Crying Photo 1 shows them under way – the walls have already been completed with the Vallejo Terracotta with Rose Brown dry-brushed highlighting and the windows are begun with the rectangles painted in with Mig Satin Black as seen here. As you can see, I started with the windows on the back wall, good practice before starting on the more visible ones! In actual fact, as the elements of the diorama have been going in, I’ve begun to realize that although the ‘point of view’ of the model is/was from the seaward side, it actually looks just as nice from the landward end – so much so that I might even make two nameplates at the end and put one on the ‘back’ as well!BigGrin
Photo 2 is a shot from the front of the Hotel with the balcony (and most of the damage) showing the next step with the white window frames being added in. The windows on the first floor directly underneath the balcony and decorative band are so close to the overhangs that they didn’t need a top frame – that saved some work! By Photo 3, the entire rear wall and one side have been completely ‘windowed in’ and the main doors have also been framed and painted in a ‘posh’ Vallejo Mahogany followed by Vallejo Woodgrain staining. One of the first test-fits is shown in Photo 4 and this was actually taken before 3, as you can see - (the end wall windows haven’t been cross framed yet!) You can ignore Photo 5! I put it in to illustrate the doors forgetting I’d already used the image for Photo 3. I put together another Corel Printhouse design as shown in Photo 6 to create a decal sheet for a canvas advertising sign for the hotel balcony. At this point I had no idea what colour I was going to make the railings along the balcony so the name of the hotel has been produced on a variety of different coloured backgrounds. After looking on maps of the Sword Beach area I found a hotel shown in pretty much the exact location as the diorama, whether such a hotel was there in 1944 I have no idea but what the heck – welcome to the Hotel Riva Bella!
For added interest, the actual road along the sea front is the Boulevard Aristide Briand (a parallel road behind the houses and hotel was later renamed after the French Commando leader seen stopping the Sherman tank; Phillipe Kieffer and a bisecting road leading inland (not on the diorama) was later named Winston Churchill Avenue – that was nice of them!Cool
Also on that decal sheet print you might notice that I re-designed the dormer window decals, separating them to make it much easier to trim around them, also, on the far right is another set of decals put together with the Printhouse program – a set of glass paned doors for the top story rooms onto the balcony. Photos 7 and 8 illustrates the balcony and decorative band around the entire hotel after painting with Vallejo Light Grey. Painting that was nerve-wracking! At this stage the hotel roof has also been painted with the Vallejo Dark Blue Grey and the chimney breasts in the Terracotta. One thing I have noticed is whilst the great majority of Vallejo acrylics have a good resistance to wear, the Dark Blue Grey definitely doesn’t! The slightest rubbing during handling and the sharp edges along the bottom and ridges wears right off to the grey primer beneath. The roof required a few re-touches before the end! The balcony door decals can be seen in place in Photo 8 and in close up in Photo 9. I also used a single door decal on a scrap of plasticard as shown in Photo 10. This was intended to produce a dislodged door where one was modelled missing on the casting. Unfortunately this was not the one which ended up on the model – as I half expected, the decal came apart as I was trying to sand down the styrene to a scale thickness. I later did it the ‘proper’ way round and sanded the plastic first and then applied the decal!Blushing The roof is completed in Photo 11 with a dry brushed light grey highlighting to bring out the tiles after first painting the holes, damage and dormer windows in Satin Black, the window frames in White and dry brushing more Black for the fire and smoke damage going up the roof. The chimney slabs are light grey with black pots. As you can also see the railings are finally … white! These came from one of the extraordinarily cheap PE brass ‘Ship’s Railings’ fret from China and they are in the process of being glued into position in Photo 12. I used the Deluxe Card Glue seen in the background with three spots of glue applied to the bottom of the rail which was just enough to grip the railing in place and then I could use a small thin paintbrush dipped in a drop of the glue to ‘paint’ along the join of the brass and the balcony to give a strong permanent joint. Note also the smaller piece added on the extreme left to complete the damaged section. The model is resting on the rubber support to give a suitable angle, preventing the PE from leaning over the balcony as the glue set (mainly the little bit on the left!)
With the balcony railings firmly attached I could then add on the hotel’s advertising canvas banner. After trying the various colours I decided on the white on blue to match the colour of the balcony doors. The banner was cut out from the sheet, dipped in Humbrol Decalfix and left on the scrap of plasticard until it began to move with gentle prodding. Then I simply moved it off the backing a little, gripped it with the micro tweezers and placed it across the railings trying to keep it as central as possible as shown in Photo 13. Another two sections of the white painted railing was cut down to provide the pair of main gates for the hotel, one in situ, and the other blown open by the shell blast demolishing one of the pillars! The last section of the railing was then painted black and used as a gate for the house next door. The last job for the Hotel Riva Bella was to create a few more civilians to glue down on the balcony along with the dislodged door seen in the centre in the final Photo 14. Oh, and add a row of trees with the last five I made before. I haven’t decided yet but I might make another five just to balance the grounds up with another row up by the far edge of the diorama. The hotel hasn’t been glued down yet in this shot, I am going to be having those telephone poles after all so I want to get them in and ‘wired up’ before the hotel gets in the way and also, its almost time for the entire armada to go on the sea base along with the wave effects and I think both the hotel and the wires will get in the way of adding the waves judging from the trial one I made!
So in the next installment, I’ll be constructing the French style of telephone poles (time to get out the soldering iron) and finishing off the gun crews on the last of the landing ships ready for the choppy seas to come!BigGrin
Until then, Stay safe and Happy Modelling to you All!

Robin.

Plymouth57 attached the following image(s):
Painting the Hotel pic 1.JPG
Painting the Hotel pic 2.JPG
Painting the Hotel pic 3.JPG
First wooden ship: The Grimsby 12 Gun 'Frigate' by Constructo Second: Bounty DelPrado Part Works Third: HMS Victory DelPrado Part Works 1/100 scale
Diorama of the Battle of the Brandywine from the American Revolutionary War Diorama of the Battle of New Falkland (unfinished sci-fi), Great War Centenary Diorama of the Messines Ridge Assault
Index for the Victory diary is on page 1
Markwarren
#175 Posted : 15 November 2020 23:26:32

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That is some excellent work you’ve done Robin.Love
Looking forward to your telephone poles.Cool

Mark
birdaj2
#176 Posted : 16 November 2020 00:06:21

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Robin

Many thanks for your kind words - its much appreciated.

Just looking at your little buildings again and really impressed that you have even managed to produce a readable signboard for your hotel.

I am so impressed that you have been able to work in so much detail into these parts.

Best wishes to you and hope your build continues well.

Tony
Happy Modelling

BUILDING: Harley Davidson Fat boy, Lam. Countach, Hachette Spitfire Mk 1A, Constructo Mayflower
COLLECTING 1:200 Bismarck (Hachette)
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Sticky Wickett
#177 Posted : 19 November 2020 12:49:30

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This such an amazing build Robin! Remarkable!Love

Regards,
Phil W.
Completed projects: 1/43 scale Bedford HA van / 1/43 scale MG TD sports car
Current projects: 1/48 scale U-boat [U230]
Future projects: 1/148 scale railway diorama / 1/50 scale R/C Volvo F89 logging truck / 1/148 scale Thunderbirds Fireflash
roymattblack
#178 Posted : 19 November 2020 13:02:32

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An amazing amount of work is going into this. It deserves to be in a military museum when you'e completed it.
Superb.Love
Plymouth57
#179 Posted : 21 November 2020 21:48:29

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Many thanks as always to Mark, Tony, Phil and Roy for those lovely comments!Blushing
Things are progressing at an ever increasing rate now! All the vessels are in place and the main wave effects have been added in which, despite my anxiety went really well. I'm now in the process of adding extra wave details (wakes and bow waves etc) and painting in the foaming surf (not very easy with all those flaming ships in the way!) I've just discovered that Mig produce a Matt Aluminium acrylic so am now awaiting that next week (what better for the silver doped barrage balloons - at least I won't be waiting for better weather to spray the things outside like the first one!)BigGrin
Anyhow, on with those telephone poles!
Firstly, there is not a single ‘French’ telephone pole! In fact they come in a great variety of shapes and sizes including the type which comes with the Skywave European Buildings Set. Some are like the typical British poles with a single cross beam carrying the ceramic insulators, some have a double cross beam like the kit and there is even a cast concrete hollow beam type too. Photo 1 illustrates some of the types with a wooden ‘A’ frame version on the left and a series of multiple types on the right (both photos taken from Sword Beach). Diagram 2 shows the type supplied in the kit and the version I’m going to model instead. Now, theoretically I could have just cut off three of the ‘arms’ from the kit poles and job done! Unfortunately, there’s a couple of reasons why I chose to scratch build them instead. The first reason is that they are a little ‘over-scale’ when it comes to the thickness of the poles and beams but the main reason is that comparing the kit items to the photos I managed to get off the internet, they are too short as well! The Skywave poles come to just above the top story of the houses whilst the actual examples seem to be as high as the roof tops!
When I finally add the telephone wires, they’ll be made from the Uschi elastic thread I bought for the rigging on the Sopwith Pups. Whether I use the standard or fine thread will depend on whether I can find out what the heck I’ve done with the standard reel!
As the thread will be elastic and under tension, (I know its supposed to have a sag in it really, but keeping it taught is far easier), I don’t want to run the risk of making the poles in styrene and then having them bend or twist unrealistically under the strain so I’m going to construct them out of brass tubing for rigidity and strength. Photo 3 shows them under construction. The main poles are from 0.8mm tubing with the single cross beam from 0.5mm tube. The two parts are soldered together and to get a good solid joint it was necessary to fix the cross beam into the pole by drilling a 0.5mm hole into the tube. This is almost impossible without first providing a ‘key’ for the drill bit to grip into (and I tried without one first!Cursing ) The key was provided by the triangular, diamond dust file seen on the left. I first marked the tube with a pencil at the location and then placed the file with a sharp edge resting on the mark before lightly filing into the surface of the brass. Only a tiny depression is required to allow the bit shown in the micro-drill to gain purchase enough to drill a hole into the tube. You can just make out the hole in the left hand tube. The little 0.5mm piece of tube was then inserted into the post and the two parts soldered together as seen in the other two brass tubes. I had intended to form the insulators out of a tiny blob of solder applied to the cross beam but the first attempt showed this was virtually impossible, enough heat to allow the ‘blob’ to bond to the brass was more than enough heat to keep melting the original solder joint. After the pole and cross bars were soldered together I then used the rotary tool with a diamond dust grinding bit to grind away any excess solder attached to the pole to leave a nice neat finish. After thinking about using a small drop of epoxy glue and a cocktail stick to fashion the insulators, I eventually used a sewing needle with a tiny drop of Woodland Scenics Water Effects – you’ll be meeting this stuff later, its what the waves will be made of!
Photo 4 illustrates three out of the four stages of painting the poles. From left to right, primed with Vallejo Grey Primer, painted with Vallejo Mahogany and then stained with a slightly diluted wash of Citadel Skaven Brown Ink. The stage not shown here was the insulators, which were painted with a needle tip’s worth of Revell Aqua Colour acrylic White. This is much thicker than my Vallejo and Mig Whites and is used to build up the height of the insulators whilst painting them. I made a total of six poles (just in case) but only need four as shown by the white asterisks in the long shot in Photo 5. I nearly put a fifth one on the corner by the café/restaurant but then thought ‘Its such a short distance, why would they bother?’ Finally, Photo 6 was put in more to show the little civilians on the hotel balcony from a better angle than anything else but if you look carefully at the telephone pole at the boundary of the house and hotel you can just make out the white insulators on the cross beam! I tried to take some close up photos of the poles in position but the flaming auto focus thingy keeps looking past the poles and focussing on the ground or building behind it!Crying Some of the poles are a little ‘drunk’ at the moment as none of them are glued in. They’ll all be fixed down nice and straight (I hope) after I’ve done the wave effects and got all the ships and some of the landing craft fixed in position at the same time.
So in the next installment, it’s a life on the ocean wave time!BigGrin
Until then, Stay safe and Happy Modelling to you All!

Robin.
Plymouth57 attached the following image(s):
Telephone Poles pic.JPG
First wooden ship: The Grimsby 12 Gun 'Frigate' by Constructo Second: Bounty DelPrado Part Works Third: HMS Victory DelPrado Part Works 1/100 scale
Diorama of the Battle of the Brandywine from the American Revolutionary War Diorama of the Battle of New Falkland (unfinished sci-fi), Great War Centenary Diorama of the Messines Ridge Assault
Index for the Victory diary is on page 1
Gandale
#180 Posted : 21 November 2020 23:56:18

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Incredible work as usual Robin, you've certainly go a sharp eye for detailing.....Love Love

Regards

Alan
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