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Fiat pack 4 Options
#1 Posted : 16 October 2020 04:47:35
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Hi All,

James H was asked by Amati to do the instruction manual for the upcoming 1/64 HMS Victory. Since I want this kit, and he has a lot of building and writing to do, I figured that James's time would be better spent on what is looking to be the absolute definitive HMS Victory model kit. The build is being picked up by Steve Humphreys, who is having a blast with it!

Mark Adams


Mark asked to help out with the Fiat build. James has other stuff he has to take care of so I said yes. I hope I can jump into James’s shoes and do as good a job as he has. I do have a different skill set, so things will look different. With Mark’s help, and your feedback we’ll make this fun! Again, please send Mark your comments and let us know if you like our layout.
I have really enjoyed catching up, between the covid and the fires and smoke in the West, I’m looking forward to this build. Growing up in N. America, I have a very different background with cars. Front engine, muscle, fat tires, go straight, and fast! This build being rear engine, 2 cylinder, traverse suspension, trailer, lots of new stuff to learn on the way. I’m also learning (thanks to Mark) a bunch of computer and typing skills. To bad I’m so old I can’t market new skills (ha,ha). So, Pack 4, some photos of catching up with Packs 1,2,and 3, and here goes!

Stage 16 Middle floor plate

The floor plate mounts from underneath, so I,m going to pre tap the 7 holes with an extra BM screw. This will make it easier for me to tell when each screw is tight and not galled up from making threads. The 7 BM screws are installed, mid section is mounted, on to Stage 17, front suspension.

Stage 17 Front Suspension

This is a very interesting set up to me, traverse spring suspension. Looking forward to building a suspension so different to A-frame, spindle, shock and spring.
No blister pack, took a photo of the parts. Left and right spring mounts, 17d and 17e, go on to the suspension assembly previously completed. Mount with 2 BM screws each.
Next, mount the washer, 17c, and the bumpstop, 17b, with a GP screw. These are plastic parts, be careful not to over tighten the screw. The spring stack is significant and may not take many threads of the screw.
The leaf spring stack will mount to the assembly at the two spring mounts. Orient the leaf spring correctly, with the hub steering arms facing to the front, and secure the spring clamps, 17f, with 2BM screws each. Make sure spring clamps and spring mounts are perpendicular to the front suspension assembly. Align the mounting hole on the hub with the holes at the ends of the spring. Use an FM screw at each end. I had a problem with the alignment of the FM screws, so I loosened the screws on the spring clamps, 17f, aligned the parts and tightened the Fm screws first, then retightened the screws for the spring clamps. Stage 17 completed. Steering is next.

Stage 18 Steering

All of the screws used to put the tie rods and idlers together with, should only be tightened enough to allow free movement of the tie rods on to the idlers. All three of the tie rods are different lengths. Pay attention to the correct parts and order of assembly to insure the idler arm
will attach to the steering gear later.
Connect the long and short tie rods to the idler arm, 18d, with IM screws as shown. Connect the remaining tie rod to the steering gear arm, 18e, with IM screws as shown. I think the instructions numbered the two idlers incorrectly. The steering gear arm should be 18d. Get a wash cloth or hand towel to protect the engine when you flip it over to proceed with the next step.
Orient the assembly correctly with the chassis and insert the 18d and 18e into the openings in the chassis underneath..
Orient the front suspension assembly, with the hub steering arms facing to the front, and put it on the chassis as shown. Make sure the assembly is completely flush to the mounting surface. Turn the chassis over, and secure with 2 KM screws. If secured properly, there should be two steps present as shown in the photo. Then attach the steering gear arm and the idler assembly with DM screws.
Make up tie rod ends to the hub steering arms with IM screws. Again, do not over tighten, allow free movement
I found that even with leaving plenty of looseness of all the parts, the steering motion was still bound up. I had to tinker with joints and move the steering assembly back and forth using the long tie rod. Took awhile, and some patience, but all worked out in the end.
O.K. Now for the shock absorbers. I found that the upper A-arm was in the way of getting the screw and screwdriver in to tighten the holding screw for the shock. I had to back up and take the screws out of the A-arm to hub connection. Raise the A-arm out of the way, put the shock on, then reassemble the A-arm to the hub. After I put it back together, I rechecked the steering operation. All is good. As Mark says, “Make it work, that’s modelling”.

Stage 19 Shock absorbers

Get the hand towel out again. Flip the assembly upside down and install the bracket, 19c, using 2BM screws. Flip the assembly over again and put the shock springs on the shock absorbers.
Put the shock covers on the shock absorbers. Stage 19 is done.

Stage 20 Wheel arches

If you’re not working on a modelling mat or something the equivalent, you’ll probably want to put some padding on your work surface. It will also need to be stable. There is some pretty serious persuasion required in this next step overcoming the shock springs. I pre-staged one of the arches in position to make sure I knew which holes to pre tap. There are 2BM screws holding each arch to the frame. I put the screw to the back of the arch first loosely. Center up the shock under the hole in the top of the arch. Put the second screw in the other mounting hole. Push down on the arch making sure the shock post comes up through the hole in the top of the arch and tighten the 2BM screws while holding the arch down against the shock spring. Try to get the screws as tight as you can, then check to see if they are tight by again pushing on the arch. I had to repeat this process several times before I got the screws tight. After you get the screws as tight as you think they should be, get the washer, 20c, and a DM screw, put them into the shock post on the top of the arch. The last couple of steps are to put the front left wheel and tire on. Take the front brake plate and put it on to the axle, wheel and tire, washer and cm screw. Depending on if you want the model to roll or not, tighten appropriately. Lastly, put the wheel cover on and 20 is complete.

I'm really looking forward to getting back to it with Pack 5! Till then, talk to ya later and stay well!

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Mark Adams
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