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Official HMS Victory Build Diary - Issues 115 - 120 Options
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#1 Posted : 25 May 2012 13:33:08
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Tomick
#2 Posted : 11 June 2012 12:28:04
Rank: Administration
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Issue 115 - Contains frame parts for the 28ft Pinnace boat, blocks & dummy guns., and has instructions for continuing the bowlines and the construction of the Pinnace boat.

If you have fitted sails to your model, start by adding bowlines to them as shown on pages 8-11. If you are
building a bare spars model, you can skip straight to page 12 and start assembling the third of the ship’s boats, the 28ft pinnace.

Continuing the bowlines - Omit all of these steps for the 'bare spares' model, (ropes A to D).

Making 28ft Pinnace boat - The plank-on-frame construction is similar to that done with the previous ships boats in issues 6/ 7 and 109, which will be useful to refer to.

Start by gluing frames 2 to 14 into the numbered slots on the build base. Make sure that they are all vertical and that the tip of the bow lines up with the point of frame 3.

Glue part 15 to the base. This is only used to set the angle of the transom, so make sure it is glued only to the base, not to frame 14.
Chamfer the tab on the transom so that part 16 can be angled and sit against part 15, then glue it into the slot in the base, but do not glue it to part 15, and make sure that the side with the etched line is to the outside.

Use fine sandpaper to fair the frames in a smooth curve so that the planks will sit evenly on them. Then use the 0.6 x 3mm planks (provided in issue 113) to plank the boat.
Fit the first plank so that it sits on the ledge of the frames. Repeat on the other side of the model. Then fit the garboard plank. Curve the ends of the garboard plank in a similar way to that shown before gluing it on one side of the centre line. Then fit a garboard plank to the opposite of the model.

Continue to plank the boat, working from the keel to the bulwark. You will need to taper the planks to get a good fit.
Once you have finished planking the model, lightly smooth the hull, being careful not to sand through the planks as they are very thin.
Then give the hull a coat of sanding sealer, let this dry and then give the hull a final light sanding.

Use a razor saw to carefully cut the boat away from its base, taking care not to damage the planking. Then sand the tops of the frames flush with the bulwark, and sand the transom back to the etched line. You may need to sand the tops of the planks to get a smooth line to the transom.

Sand the bow, where the keel will fit, until frame 2 just starts to show through the planks. Then glue the main part of the keel in place as before, (refer to issue 109). Then fit the bow part of the keel in the same way.

Using the 0.6 x 3mm planks, cut and fit four footboards to the bottom of the boat between frames 4 and 12.
Then Cut the aft grating to size and glue into place. (You may prefer to set aside placement of the footboards and grating until later on when further finishing of the boat is seen).

The rest of the internal fittings will be added at a later stage.

That's it for this week, carefully store the dummy guns, planks and remaining boat parts.

Future issues:

Issue 116 - Contains dummy gun barrels, wood strips, pins, blocks, eyebolts, brass strip & davit brackets., and has instructions for constructing and rigging the quarter davits.

Issue 117 - Contains dowel, dummy guns, brass strip & wire, eyebolts and brass chain., and has instructions for fitting the lower studdingsail booms, fitting the barrels, fitting eyebolts to the hull and rigging the lower sails' sheets and tacks.
Tomick attached the following image(s):
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Tomick
#3 Posted : 18 June 2012 09:26:25
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Issue 116 - Contains dummy gun barrels, wood strips, pins, blocks, eyebolts, brass strip & davit brackets., and has instructions for constructing and rigging the quarter davits.

You have the option of fitting the davits in their vertical (stowed) position, or in their lowered (ready for use) position.

If you are fitting the davits in the stowed position, you need to omit the cleats and block and tackle used to raise and lower the boats.

The main images of the magazine steps show how to rig the davits in the stowed position, but there are additional instructions if you choose to fit them in the alternative 'ready for use', lower position.

The Official Diary Build follows the route of stowed davits.

Making the 'stowed' quarter davits - You will need parts provided with this issue and parts from issue 104.

You will need to make four identical davits. Take the 3x3mm wood and cut four 48mm lengths to form the davit arms.
Cut back 3.5mm of the end of the arm on two sides so that the davit will slide between the tabs of the hinge. Then sand a radius on the top of the narrowed end, so that it can hinge upwards.

Drill a 0.7mm hole 2mm from the plain end of the davit arm.

If you are fitting the davits in their lowered position, drill a 1.2mm hole, 10mm from the narrowed end, (only drill this hole if you have opted for lowered (ready fo use) davits).

Draw a light pencil line 15mm from the thinned end, and 6mm from the other end, (these are used to position the foothold steps).
Cut small triangles of wood from the 2x2mm strip, so that you can glue six footholds to the upper side, evenly spaced between the lines drawn earlier.

For the natural finish model, stain the wood walnut to match the wales, (the painted version will be painted later).

Form a 3mm square on the end of the brass strip, using a pair of long-nosed pliers. Then cut the brass square off the end of the strip and glue it onto the davit arm using superglue.

Drill a 0.7mm hole in each side of the davit, right through the brass square. Then cut down the shanks of two eyebolts to 1.5mm, and glue them into the holes so that they lie in line with the direction of the arm.

For the painted version, finish the davit arm, brass strip and eyebolts with black paint before you fit the hinge, which should be left unpainted.

Fit the davit between the tabs of the hinge, and insert a nail to act as a pivot (drill a 0.3mm pilot hole to stop the wood splitting). Then snip the tip off the nail, being careful not to let the cut end fly off into your eyes.

Rigging the davits - For lowered (ready for use) davits, the black cleats are supplied in this issue and issue 104. You will also need 0.25mm brown thread (from issue 91) and 0.25mm natural thread.

If you opted for stowed (raised) davits, the black cleats at the bottom of the falls are omitted, as placement of these will prevent the davit arms being raised fully.

If you are fitting the davits in their lowered position, glue the black cleats into the upper side of the 1.2mm holes you drilled earlier.

Choose one of the davits, and file the base of the hinge to remove any mould line. Then glue the first davit to the hull between the fifth and sixth mizzen shrouds, just above the wriggle.

File the base of the hinge on the second davit flat and glue this in place as shown in the steps.

Fit an eyebolt just behind the small main mast chainwale, and fit another eyebolt by the top of the gallery.

Using the 0.25mm brown thread, rig the forward davit arm to the forward eyebolt. Ensure that you have the arm in its final vertical or horizontal position when you tension the thread.

Rig the aft davit arm to the aft eyebolt in the same way, then tie a length of thread between the eyebolts on the arms.

Tie a length of natural 0.25mm thread to the tips of both davit arms, take it around behind the shrouds so that its two sides can be pulled into a triangle as shown, the triangle needs to measure approx 35mm from base to apex.
For davits in the lowered position (ready for use), it needs to measure about 80mm.

Tie a 300mm length of natural 0.25mm thread to the thread just fitted. Do not overtighten this knot, so its position can be adjusted as necessary.
Then feed this thread through the block on the mizzen mast, and then secure the thread to the front belaying pin. Seal and trim all knots.

If you opted to fit the davits in the lowered position, you can add a block and tackle to each arm.
Tie a 200mm length of 0.25mm natural thread to the end of the davit arm. Feed the thread through the block, up through the hole in the end of the davit arm, and secure it to the black cleat upon the davit.

Repeat the steps to complete the davits in your chosen guise on the opposite side of the model.

That's it for this week, carefully store the remaining parts.

Future issues:

Issue 117 - Contains dowel, dummy guns, brass strip & wire, eyebolts & brass chain., and has instructions for fitting the lower studdingsail booms, placement of the barrels, fitting eyebolts to the hull and rigging the lower sails' sheets and tacks.
Tomick attached the following image(s):
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Tomick
#4 Posted : 26 June 2012 20:53:50
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Issue 117 - Contains dowel, dummy guns, brass strip & wire, eyebolts & brass chain., and has instructions for constructing and fitting the lower studdingsail booms, placement of the barrels, fitting the hull eyebolts, and rigging the lower sails' sheets and tacks.

Fitting the lower studdingsail booms - The magazine steps illustrate one side of the model only. Repeat all steps on the opposite side.

Cut a 218mm length from the 3mm dowel and stain walnut unless you are following the painted option.

Bend a 3mm-diameter ‘U’ in the brass wire, (a pair of round-nosed pliers will make this easier). Bend the long leg back at a right angle and cut the excess wire, leaving a leg of about 5mm.

Now make four 3mm diameter rings from the brass strip, again, round-nosed pliers will make this easier.

Glue a ring to one end of the boom, then drill a 0.5mm hole in the end of the boom and glue the hook in place. (Ensure the join in the ring is at the bottom when the hook is as shown in the step photo, and the same for the remaining rings).

Place the hook through the hole in the fitting on the main chainwale. (Simply place the hook over the fitting if you chose not to drill this hole when you installed the fitting.) Do not glue the boom in place yet.

Fit a brass ring on each side of the boom support. Remove the boom, being careful not to move the rings, and glue them in position. Make sure that the joins are at the bottom then glue the last ring to the far end of the boom.

If you are building a painted model, finish the whole of the boom and its fittings with black paint.Then glue the boom in position, applying superglue to the hook and to the support fitting.

Placement of the barrels - To mount the barrels (assembled in issue 19) on deck, apply a little PVA glue to the bottoms of the skids and place the assembly centrally in front of the compass binnacle.

Fitting the eyebolts to the hull - Several eyebolts (supplied with issue 110) need to be fitted to the hull to secure the rigging. Carefully follow the steps for their placement.

Fit two eyebolts to the stem, one just below the decoration and one below the front of the dolphin. (Drill parallel holes all the way through the stem, then fit the eyebolts on both sides after cutting the shanks to less than 3mm).

Then fit an eyebolt above the first open middle gun port.

Fit two eyebolts by the fifth upper gun port, and another two by the seventh upper gun port.

Fit two eyebolts between the 13th and 14th upper deck gun ports. (Unfortunately your magazine step image may have been over-cropped and only one eyebolt shown. The final image in my photos show's a revised magazine image, with both eyebolts visible in step 4).

Fit an eyebolt below the aft pulley block.

Repeat on the opposite side of the model (with the exception of the stem eyebolts which have already been fitted).

Rigging the lower sails' sheets and tacks - Use 0.25mm natural thread throughout, except for the boomkin stay ropes.

Note - Those building the bare-spars version, omit all but steps 1 and 19 to 22 (ropes A - G are omitted).

Step 1 - Use 0.25mm black thread to make the boomkin stay ropes. Tie the thread to one eyebolt on the stem, then tie it to the end of the boomkin, and finally, back to the other eyebolt.
Repeat on the opposite side.

Steps 19 to 22 - To make the main yard brace (H), tie an 1,100mm length of thread to the eyebolt below the aft pulley.
Feed this thread through the block on the end of the main yard and back through the pulley, leave the thread hanging loose.
Repeat on the opposite side of the model, then tension both port and starboard braces simultaneously so that the lines are tensioned and the main yard is kept straight, then secure the threads to the cleat on the respective bulwark.

Carefully store the rudder chains and the dummy gun barrels.

Future issues:

Issue 118 - Contains parts for the final ship's boat - the Admirals barge: hull frame parts, planking & metal grating., and contains instructions for the construction of the hull of the barge, and the fitting out the barge, cutter and pinnace boats.
The first of the figurines are also included, (3 officers and 5 crew) along with a paint guide.

Issue 119 - Contains the first of Victory’s flags - The Union Jack for jackstaff, Union Flag for the main mast, white Ensign for the driver gaff, St George's cross for the fore mast, chock frames for the ship's boats & 5 figurines., and has instructions for fitting the flags, and continues the fitting-out & exterior painting of the ship's boats, along with fitting the rudder chains and dummy guns.








Tomick attached the following image(s):
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Tomick
#5 Posted : 03 July 2012 16:08:41
Rank: Administration
Build-Diary Medal: Build-Diary Medal of HonourPublisher Medal: Article published MedalActive Service Medal: 500 post active service MedalPurple Medal: Super active service medal for 1000 postsRed Medal: Red MedalTurquoise Medal: Turquoise Medal for model making know-how contribution
Groups:

Joined: 08/03/2010
Posts: 19,138
Points: 53,391
Location: UK
Issue 118 - Contains parts for the final ship's boat - the Admirals barge: hull frame parts, planking & metal grating., and contains instructions for the hull construction of the barge, and the fitting out the barge, cutter and pinnace boats.
The first of the figurines are also included, (3 officers and 5 crew) along with a paint guide.

Construction of the admiral’s barge - This is very similar to that of Victory’s previous ship’s boats, which you will find in issues 6-10, 109 and 115. In addition to the parts supplied this time, you will need the 3 x 0.6mm planks supplied in Issue 113.
Once you have assembled the hull of the the barge using the parts provided, you can switch to fitting out the interior for the barge, cutter and pinnace that you have previously assembled. You will complete the details on all three boats and finish off by painting the exterior in the next issue.

I won't repeat the barge assembly steps here as they are very similar to the assembly of the previous ship's boats, other than to remind that part 15 is a temporary jig for setting the angle of the transom, make sure that it is only glued to the base, not the transom or rib 13.

For clarity, the fitting out of the boats is best followed via the magazine steps.

Fitting out the barge - Fit the four floorboards, the fore and aft duckboards and the thwart support rails. You will add the thwarts themselves next time. (If painting, you may prefer to set aside placement of the floorboards and grating until the interior has been painted as per the information noted the bottom of page 13).

Cut 3 x 0.6mm planks to make four floorboards and glue them in place as shown in the steps.

Cut the brass grilles to size for the duckboards, and glue them in place with a small amount of super glue (one grille supplied previouisly).

Use 3 x 0.6mm strip to make the thwart support rail. Cut a 105mm length and angle the aft end to match the angle of the transom. Glue the rail in place 3mm below the gunwale (use a scrap of 3mm strip to gauge this).

Trim the forward end flush with the foremost frame, then repeat on the other side of the model.

Use a 3 x 0.6mm strip to double the thickness of the gunwale plank. Trim this to fit the bow, and then glue it in place along the side of the model. Finally trim the end flush with the transom.

Fitting out the Cutter - Follow the steps to continue fitting out the interior of the hull that you assembled in Issue 109. Repeat the process on both sides of the model.

Take two 105mm lengths of 3 x 0.6mm strip and and cut, trim or sand them to make them 2mm wide, then glue these strips in place 3mm below the gunwale.

Use a 3 x 0.6mm strip to double the thickness of the gunwale plank on each side.

Fitting out the Pinnace - Start to add the interior details to the hull that you assembled in Issue 115.

Use 3 x 0.6mm strip to make the thwart supports. You may have to trim the area above the grating so that the support can be placed 3mm below the gunwale, then glue the strip in place, 3mm below the gunwale.

Use a 3 x 0.6mm strip to double the gunwale plank. Glue this in position so that the upper edge of the plank is 1mm higher than the gunwale.

Make light pencil marks at the third frame from the bow, the third frame from the stern, and about 3mm from the stern.

Cut or sand the plank flush with the gunwale at the centre and the very stern of the model. Angle the ends of the raised sections at about 30 degrees.

Cut a piece from an offcut of 2mm planking for the point of the prow, shape it about 3mm wide and 3.5mm high, but check to ensure it fits your model, then glue this part to the prow.

If you are building the painted model, you can start to paint the interiors of the boats during this part of the assembly.

Interior painting information - For the Cutter and Pinnace, paint the inside of the hull and thwart support planks yellow ochre, and paint the floor boards white, and the gratings black.

For the Barge, paint the inside of the hull and thwart support plank green, apart from the uppermost hull plank, which should be painted white. Paint the floorboards and gratings black.

Figurines - Remove any mould lines from the castings using a fine needle file, then follow the painting guide for each figurine. I plan to paint the figurines later on once they are all to hand.

That's it for this week, carefully store the ship's boats and figurines.

Future issues:

Issue 119 - Contains the first of Victory’s flags - The Union Jack for jackstaff, Union Flag for the main mast, Union flag for the main mast, White Ensign for the driver gaff, St George’s cross for the fore mast, chock support frames for the ship's boats & 5 figurines., and has instructions for fitting the flags, and continues the fitting-out & exterior painting of the ship's boats, along with fitting the rudder chains and dummy guns.





Tomick attached the following image(s):
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Painted Vic figs.JPG
Tomick
#6 Posted : 13 July 2012 17:12:07
Rank: Administration
Build-Diary Medal: Build-Diary Medal of HonourPublisher Medal: Article published MedalActive Service Medal: 500 post active service MedalPurple Medal: Super active service medal for 1000 postsRed Medal: Red MedalTurquoise Medal: Turquoise Medal for model making know-how contribution
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Joined: 08/03/2010
Posts: 19,138
Points: 53,391
Location: UK
Issue 119 - Contains the first of Victory’s flags - The Union Jack for jackstaff, Union Flag for the main mast, Union flag for the main mast, White Ensign for the driver gaff, St George’s cross for the fore mast, chock support frames for the ship's boats & figurines., and has instructions for fitting the flags, and continues the fitting-out & exterior painting of the ship's boats, along with fitting the rudder chains and dummy guns.

You will receive more flags (including Nelson’s signal flags) in the final issue.

Fitting the flags - Use 0.25mm natural thread throughout. Do not seal the knots until after the flags are fitted. This allows you to re-tension the threads if necessary. If the backs and fronts of the flags don’t line up quite perfectly, simply trim the edges with a pair of sharp scissors.

To add the Union Flag on the main mast, take a 1,300mm length of thread, and tie one end to the main mast cap, and feed the thread through the block on the top of the main mast. Tie the thread off to the eighth shroud on the port main chainwale, just above the deadeyes. This thread needs to be pulled quite tight to hold the weight of the flag.

Take the larger Union Flag. (Make sure you get the flag the right way up - The wider white diagonal is at the top on the side of the flag nearest the flagpole).
Without removing the backing, fold the flag in half and crease it, then remove the backing paper and stick the flag to itself around the thread. Use the vertical section of thread between the mast cap and block so that the flag hangs straight.

To add the St George’s Cross on the fore mast, take a 1,100mm length of thread and tie it to the foremast cap, then thread it through the block on the top of the fore mast and tie it to the eighth fore mast shroud.
Fit the St George’s Cross in the same way as you fitted the larger Union flag.

To add the Union Jack on the jackstaff fitted to the bowsprit, attach the smaller Union Jack to the middle of a 300mm length of thread. Feed the thread at the top of the flag through the block at the top of the jackstaff, and then tie both ends to the eye at the bottom of the jack.

To add the pennant rope to the mizzen mast, take a 900mm length of thread and tie one end to the mizzen mast cap, and feed this through the block on the top of the mizzen mast, then tie this to the third mizzen shroud.

To add the White Ensign on the driver gaff, start by fitting a 7mm eyebolt near the end of the taffrail. Be careful not to let the drill come out through the wood. take a 600mm length of thread and feed it through the block on the end of the driver gaff, then tie both ends to the eyebolt just fitted. Fold the White Ensign over the thread as you did with the earlier flags.

Fitting the dummy guns - Fit the smaller guns on the middle and upper gun decks using superglue. Insert a cross-stitch needle or similar object into the muzzles to help you line up the barrels.

Fit the larger guns on the lower gun deck., use a cocktail stick to help position these barrels.

Fitting the Rudder chains - The two rudder chains (provided with 117) hang slackly down each side of the hull. The rudder chains were only brought into action during an emergency when the main steering was damaged.

Take one of the eyebolts and twist it to open the loop and insert the eyebolt through the end link, and then twist the eye closed again.

Drill a 0.7mm hole in the wale just under the mizzen chainwale, then glue the eyebolt in place.

Hold the chain in place against the eye in the rudder. Then cut the chain to length with a pair of cutters, (leave a little slack, but make sure you use less than half the chain supplied).

Use a 2mm brass ring (provided with 100) to link the end of the chain to the eyebolt on the rudder.

Repeat on the other side of the model, making sure the chains hang down evenly.

Fitting out the Cutter - Add the seats and rudder using wood, brass strip and brass wire supplied with Issue 113. For the painted version, you may like to paint the thwarts before glueing them in place.

Cut four thwarts from 1 x 3mm wood, and fit them to the cutter as shown. Note the positions in relation to the frames. Drill a 1.5mm hole in the second thwart.

Add a strip of 1 x 3mm wood across the transom, resting on the thwart supports.

Use 1 x 3mm wood to add two seats to the sides, carefully notching the wood to fit round the frames so that they sit on the thwart supports.

Add a short length of 1 x 3mm wood to the bow, (this also sits on the thwart support). Then add a second strip to complete the bow decking.

Cut four slots, two each side, to represent the rowlocks. Note the positions in relation to the thwarts and frames.
Take the thin brass strip and bend the end to form a 'U' shape and adjust the fit as necessary. You will need two ‘U’s, one about 5mm long and the other about 8mm long. Glue the 'U' shapes over the top halves of the cut-outs in the rudder, lining up flush with the edge, then trim the excess off.

Hold the rudder in place against the transom and mark the position of the bottom of each brass strip, and drill 0.5mm holes at each pencil mark.
Bend and cut the wire into two L's, with each leg about 2mm long, and glue them into the holes.

Cut a 25mm-long tiller from a piece of 1 x 3mm wood.The narrow end should be 1mm wide, spreading to 2mm wide and the other end.
Carefully drill a 1mm hole in the top of the rudder at an angle, and glue the tiller in place, then mount the rudder as shown, but do not glue it in place.

Fitting out the Pinnace - Add the seats and rudder as on the cutter, using wood supplied with issue 113. For the painted version, you may like to paint the thwarts before glueing them in place.

Add seven thwarts made from 1 x 3mm wood. Note the position in relation to the frames. Drill 1.5mm holes in the first and fourth thwarts.

Add stern seats in the same way you did with the Cutter.

Add five 1 x 3mm planks to make the bow decking, carefully cutting notches for the frames.

Construct and mount the rudder using the instructions given for the rudder of the Cutter.

Fitting out the Barge - The barge is completed in a similar way to the other boats. For the painted version,
you may like to paint the thwarts before glueing them in place.

Add seven thwarts noting the positions related to the frames. Use 1 x 3mm wood and drill 1.5mm holes in the first and fourth.

Add the stern seats using the same method as before.

Use the laser cut frame, part 20, to fit the bow. You will need to chamfer the edges and the slots to get it to fit correctly.

Cut out 7 notches each side for the rowlocks. Note they are located just ahead of the frames.

Construct and mount the rudder in the same way as the rudder of the Cutter.

Painting the Cutter, Pinnace & Barge - The Cutter and Pinnace have similar paintwork to the Launch and can be finished using the techniques shown in issue 9.
The admiral’s barge has a slightly different colour scheme, so you will need to adapt the technique a little.

I won't repeat the boat painting guide here as its self explanatory.

That's it for this week, carefully store the completed boats and chock set.

Final part of the Victory build next week!!
Tomick attached the following image(s):
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Tomick
#7 Posted : 19 July 2012 15:58:59
Rank: Administration
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Issue 120 - Contains the pennant & signal flags, 'Victory' name decal and figurine set., and has instructions for fitting the remaining flags, completing the launch, mounting the ship's boats and applying the 'Victory' name.

Fitting the remaining flags - Complete the flag display by adding the array of signal flags, which display code 253 for 'England' - the first word of Nelson's famous signal - plus the pennant.

Take an 800mm length of 0.25mm natural thread and feed it through the block on the port end of the mizzen topmast yard., then tie both ends to the second mizzen shroud.

Fit the three signal flags around one side of the line just below the yardarm in the order shown.

Pennant rope - you may have already fited this rope in issue 19. If not, take a 900mm length of thread and tie one end to the mizzen mast cap, and feed this through the block on the top of the mizzen mast, and tie this to the third mizzen shroud.

Use scissors to separate the two halves of the pennant by cutting down the centre, avoiding the edges of the pennants. Then carefully peel off the first section of backing paper, and lay a 300mm length of thread 2-3mm from the edge of the flag.
Peel the backing paper off the second half of the pennant and carefully place it over the first, making sure it is perfectly aligned. Then carefully remove the remaining backing paper to stick the two halves together.

Tie the two ends of the thread togeher with a reef knot, then tie the pennant at the top of the pennant rope on the mizzen mast.

Completing the launch - Finish off the launch by adding the loose equipment (bucket, barrel & oars) which were provided in issue 113. Assemble and paint the bucket, barrel and oars as shown, then glue them into place as per your chosen layout.

Mounting the boats - The boats are stacked on beans within the waist area opening, using boat chocks supplied with issue 119.
As they are all different, take care not to mix them up, and do a dry assembly before gluing them permanently. A guide is provided as to their correct positions upon the beams.
For the natural model, stain the chocks walnut, or paint them black for the painted version.
Glue the chocks onto the hulls of the boats as per the reference noted, then glue and position each boat in turn onto the beams.

Applying the 'Victory' name - The 'Victory' name on the stern of the model is supplied as a waterslide decal.

Soak the decal in water for 20-30 seconds until the transfer slides easily, then quickly slide the decal from the paper into position beneath the gallery.
Position the decal so that it is central, then use a soft tissue or cotton bud to remove excess water and allow to fully dry. Then coat the decal with a thin coat of clear varnish.

That's it for now on the HMS Victory ship build. I will posting up the completion of the Cutaway section in this topic as soon as parts come to hand.

Tomick attached the following image(s):
V120-1.jpg
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Tomick
#8 Posted : 28 August 2012 12:24:00
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HMS Victory display stand

A display stand is on sale in the DeAgsitini online Shop as per the below images., cost is £19.99 (24.99 euros) including P&P.

Length 38.5cm, width 17.5cm and is complete with the HMS VIctory name plate.
Tomick attached the following image(s):
Stand 1.jpg
Stand 2.jpg
Tomick
#9 Posted : 30 April 2013 19:29:29
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Cutaway Pack 1 - Contains wooden strips and two wood veneer panels, plus six gun kits (three per deck) and three tampions.

Making the Cutaway Part 1:

It is best to make the deck panels only when you are ready to fit them into the hull (after you have completed all the guns and figurines). This will minimise the chance of the thin veneer warping.

Once you have made the deck panels, store them under a heavy weight to keep them flat until you need them.

Take one of the sheets of veneer and place in front of the Cutaway cut-out at either the middle or the lower deck level, (I started with the lower deck).
Draw a line across the veneer to mark the exact width across the opening. Make sure that the line is square, then carefully cut the veneer to width. Check its fit within the opening, then number or letter mark on the underside of the veneer with the corresponding deck level and also mark the front and forward edges.

The process is the same for the middle deck, but this time you will need to reduce the depth of the veneer because of the internal ladder. Slide the veneer in place as far as it will go. Then run a pencil along front edge beneath the veneer to mark the deck edge. Remove the veneer and trim the excess. Again, mark the underside of the veneer.

Planking the veneers - the prcesss is the same fro both veneers. Use a solvent based adhesive to glue the planks to the veneer, as the water content of PVA glue will likley warp the panel. Before using a black marker to caulk the planks, you should test that the glue used does not make the ink run. Whitebaord marker panes are recommended, as solvent glues are less likely to make this type of ink run. Alternatively, you can use a soft pencil to caulk the planks.

Caulk the planks as you did with the ships deck planks, by running a black marker pen along one edge of each plank.

Cut a plank slightly longer than the veneer, apply a thin layer of adhesive to one side and glue it in place. Ensure that the edge of the plank aligns exactly with the edge of the veneer, be careful not to get glue onto the plank.

Continue planking the veneer until it is covered. Then place the panel under a heavy book or similar object to keep it flat, (remember to protect the book with a sheet of polythene to protect the cover).

Trim off the excess planking, then lightly sand the panel. Work only in the direction of the grain to avoid etting dried ink onto the panel and staining it.

Use a pencil to simulate plank joints and fixings as shown. Then store the panel under weight until it is needed.

Carefully store the remaining 3x2x150mm wooden strips.

Making the Cutaway Part 2:

The pre-assembly of all three smaller guns is the same as for the 12-pounder guns that you assembled previously, but DO NOT glue the gun barrels in place yet, as you will need to align the barrel heights with the dummy barrels peviously fitted into the gun ports.

The larger guns fitted on the lower deck are assembled similar to the smaller guns, but that the carriage has an extra block piece which runs across the front, and therefore differs slightly in its assembly.

Add the front block piece to the three larger carriages as shown. Again, DO NOT glue the gun barrels in place yet, as you will need to align the barrel heights with the dummy barrels peviously fitted into the gun ports.

Finish all six gun carriages to match those on the ship.

Carefully store the cannon assemblies, gun barrels, pins and cap squares for the next stage.


Tomick attached the following image(s):
C 1-1.JPG
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Tomick
#10 Posted : 09 May 2013 11:30:16
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Making the Cutway Part 3:

Pack Two of the Cutway provides 45 cast-metal figurines for the cutaway and quarterdeck: 5 standing gun crew x3, 5 marines & officers, 5 crewmen and 20 assorted crouching gun crew.

Your 45 figurines include 20 crouching gunners designed to fit in the space between decks, so they can be shown working the guns in the cutaway. You have also received three sets of gunners, who can be added to the guns on the quarterdeck, plus five marines and officers, and five crew members who can be placed on deck and in the ship rigging to add to the action there.
Paint them as shown in the instructions or in your chosen guise. For basic painting techniques, follow the instructions in the insert provided with Issue 120 and also the guide provided with Pack two. You should vary the colours of the crewmen, as they have no uniforms, but use the suggested colours for the marines and officers. Before placement, cut-off the tabs beneath the feet and file the bottom of the feet smooth.



Tomick attached the following image(s):
30 Crouching figurine set.JPG
Tomick
#11 Posted : 24 May 2013 09:01:30
Rank: Administration
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Making the Cutaway Part 4:

Once you have painted all 20 crouching gunners provided for the cutaway, you can assemble the dioramas using the cutaway decks and guns you made previously, and slot them into the hull of the ship.

Take the lower deck and slide it into position, then put the larger guns in place. (Use the wider, lower carriages and the larger barrels.) As the arrows indicate, the muzzles should be positioned directly below the upper deck guns, and angled so they align with the dummy gun barrels on either side. Indicate the positions of the front wheels of the carriage with light pencil marks.
Remove the deck and place the guns back on their pencil marks, but do not glue them yet.

Take half of the crouching gunners and place them around the guns. You can vary the arrangement shown, but you will need to remember which goes where. Use pieces of blue-tack to stop them falling over. Then indicate the position of each figurine’s feet with light pencil marks.

Remove the guns and figurines, then glue the deck in position using a solvent-based general-purpose adhesive (not a waterbased glue such as PVA, as this can cause warping). Spread an even layer of adhesive over the bottom of the deck and quickly put it in place. Press the whole deck down firmly until the glue sets.

Take a piece of 2x3mm wooden strip provided in Part 1, then mark and cut it to the length of the cutout in the hull planking. Paint the outer face of the strip either black or red ochre, then glue it in place to cover the visible edge of the deck.

Using a pair of tweezers, glue the figures in place on their marks, starting with the ones at the rear. Use a small drop of superglue for each foot. Continue to fit the remaining figures at the front.
Put the guns back in place but do not glue them yet. Set each barrel at the right angle to align with the dummy guns, then apply drops of superglue to the trunnions to fix its position.
Carefully remove each of the guns and glue the cap squares in position to cover the trunnions. Now glue the guns in the diorama, applying superglue to the bottom of each wheel to fix the gun carriages to the deck.

Paint the tampions red ochre and place them in a location of your choice. (You may prefer to omit them, as they were not necessarily stowed beside the guns during action.)

Repeat the process to assemble the diorama on the middle deck. Space the guns to match the dummy barrels, noting their offset positions in relation to the upper and lower deck guns.

This completes the Cutaway!

Tomick attached the following image(s):
Cutaway.JPG
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