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Up-grading the Del Prado 1/100 Victory Options
Gandale
#241 Posted : 28 July 2013 23:07:57

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Very nice Robin, now I know how to go about scratch building open and closed hearts.....Cool Cool .. Thanks for the brill tutorial...

Best regards

Alan
Plymouth57
#242 Posted : 29 July 2013 22:09:57

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Thanks boys, glad you like that wash effect, it was a trial just to see what it would do, if it was a disaster I'd just have painted it over again with the Admiralty but I quite like the extra depth it gives to the wales so I'll be gradually introducing it around the rest of the hull sides in the near future, it doesn't spread along as slickly as it did on the video but that was on to an enamel finish but it's do-able! BigGrin

Right, here's the second part of the Hearts and Minds!

The first job is to tie up the first of the two ‘noose’ ends on the Knightshead rigging rope. The easiest method for this is to loop the rope around either a drill bit or cocktail stick, (depending on the size required) held in a vice. The lashing or ‘seizing’ is then tied up tight to the shaft, secured with as small a drop of super as possible and once dried, the rope can be gripped taut and the seizing thread wound around the rope enclosing both the long length and the short ‘trapped’ length, again securing with super when in place. Once the seizing is done the excess 'trapped' thread is snipped off. This will produce the first loop as seen in photo 1.
The end of the long length of rope is dipped in a drop of super to form the stiff needle as described earlier. (A word of advice: don’t just measure or estimate the length of thread required, I measured the first attempt fairly accurately but forgot to allow for enough excess to be able to grip and tie off the knots! Measure it roughly then double it! It seems wasteful which is why I messed up the first one, but whatever’s left over will always come in useful for something else later on, even if it’s just coils of rope around the deck!) Blink
The stiffened end of the rope was then threaded down through the right hand rear gap in the Marine’s Walk, through that drilled hole in the Knightshead and then down through the bow grating, through the slot in the beak head where the gammoning passes through and then back up following the same route in reverse via the portside Knightshead and back up through the Marine’s Walk.
We now have a loop of thread with a noose on one end and the ‘needle’tip on the other. Checking against the reference book plans, the open heart needs to be just aft of the bow fence work so the noosed end was gently pulled back until it could be looped around giving enough room for the heart to go slightly aft of it. (Photo 1 again.)
Once in position, the free end is passed through the noose and clipped in position with sprung tweezers before seizing the loop closed as before as in Photo 2.
The Open Heart is now placed into the loop of thread and a length of thread tied on at its centre. This thread, (not visible in the photos) is run all the way back to the main mast position where I’d stuck a piece of dowel down the mast hole to form a temporary hitching post (or Granny post if you could see my knots!)Blushing This holds the open heart and associated ropes taut enough to be able to lash up the rope to the legs of the heart as seen in Photos 3 and 4. For the absolute purists, I’ve put too much seizing on the legs it should only be around three or four turns not the seven or eight I put on, fortunately the whole thing is painted in Admiralty Dull Black to simulate the tar preservative so it doesn’t show up so much once painted and drybrushed.
The long thread securing the heart to the mast/dowel is then untied from the open heart and tied instead around the side grooves on the Closed Heart, sliding it back around an inch and a half before knotting the long thread behind the closed heart. This proved very infuriating with the knots coming loose repeatedly, in the end I was forced to superglue them tight.
Finally, the two hearts were lashed together with the thinner natural coloured thread, first tied off on the centre of the closed heart and then passed back and forth between the two. It is very important at this stage to ensure that the lashing thread is passed through the gap in the open heart and the slot in the closed one in a regular and orderly fashion (God I’m sounding like a Headmaster now!), in other words, from the closed heart centre down underneath the open, up through the gap and back up to the closed heart’s slot passing down through it. If the closed heart is accidentally twisted during this process the lashing won’t stay neat and tidy – it took me at least three attempts, probably due to those knots coming loose and the heart spinning around as a consequence. The final effect is seen in Photo 5. The thread going back to the dowel is only temporary, hence the ‘sticking out’ end by the heart.
Finally, in Photo 6 you can see the next two hearts which I made up for the construction tutorial above, they will eventually be used on the Main Stay Preventer rigging which sits just above this one and ropes around the bowsprit. Above the scratch built hearts are the plastic ‘things’ supplied by DelPrado. I’ve nothing against them supplying plastic blocks but surely they could have been moulded to look like the real thing?
That’s all for now, Happy Building to you all, it’s either the Preventer Stay or the Poop Deck Barricade for next time. Confused

Robin
Plymouth57 attached the following image(s):
Hearts rigging pic 1a.JPG
First wooden ship: The Grimsby 12 Gun 'Frigate' by Constructo Second: Bounty DelPrado Part Works Third: HMS Victory DelPrado Part Works 1/100 scale
Diorama of the Battle of the Brandywine from the American Revolutionary War Diorama of the Battle of New Falkland (unfinished sci-fi), Great War Centenary Diorama of the Messines Ridge Assault
Index for the Victory diary is on page 1
Gandale
#243 Posted : 29 July 2013 23:33:13

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Robin, your pics and description make it look all to easy but can probably bet it wasn't.... Nice to see your usual high standards on display... Drool Drool .. Am learning lots of tips and techniques from you so please keep the tutorial going..... great stuff....BigGrin BigGrin BigGrin

Regards

Alan
jase
#244 Posted : 30 July 2013 02:44:41

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Robin, been a little while since i last looked in on this I can only say wow. she is looking stunning and your effort and skill is a credit to you (doffs hat)

J
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DaDokta
#245 Posted : 30 July 2013 07:34:15

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Robin, the detail of your work is amazing!
Greetings,
Walter



Present builds:
HMS Victory

Builds started but currently on a hold:
AKAGI, Supermarine Spitfire, Hachette U-96

On the shelf:
HMS Victory Cross-section, Italeri "Fiat Mefistofele", Italeri "Moto Guzzi California", Fokker "Red Baron", Revell Bismarck, Revell Tirpitz, Arab Dow, Stage Coach, .....

Completed builds:
McLaren MP4/4, D-51
Admiral Anti Spiral
#246 Posted : 31 July 2013 14:26:48

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Lovely work robinBigGrin i tried making those two pieces, it was tough!BigGrin BigGrin Love
Processing - Progressing

Previous builds: HMS Victory
Current build: HMS Sovereign of the seas
Plymouth57
#247 Posted : 02 August 2013 19:26:43

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Many thanks indeed to Alan, DaDokta, Admiral and Jase, I can't remember ever having been 'doffed' to before!BigGrin That's high praise indeed and gratefully received from all.

OK! It was the Preventer Stay – the Poop Deck Barricade is now under way too!

The Preventer Stay is rigged a little differently from the Main Stay so the procedure is slightly different too. Whereas the Main Stay attaching rope was threaded down through the Knightsheads and down under the bow timbers, the Preventer rope work is wrapped around the bottom of the bowsprit itself. It does have a pair of much smaller loops and nooses just like it’s big brother but these are spliced in right under the bowsprit where a) It’s impossible to get into, and b) they can’t be seen even if I could get in there! I therefore came up with a solution which, once the rigging is done also can’t be seen!
Photo 1 shows the Open Heart as in the earlier post, this time however, instead of the rope with the noose being glued all the way around the groove with the noose itself further back towards the bow, one end of the rope is super glued just half way around the groove from the middle of the front to the end of the ‘legs’.
Once this is dry, the other end of the rope was treated to the super glue ‘needle’ procedure and when this was stiff, the rope was threaded down through the forward slot in the Marine’s Walk, under the bowsprit and back up the other side through the same slot. Sounds easy – it wasn’t!! The stiffened end is required to get the rope to pass down in under but then it gets in the way of pulling it back up the other side! Still, it got there in the end. Incidentally, unlike the main stay set up which has to go down the starboard side first to get the spliced joint on the port side, the Preventer can go around the bowsprit in either direction.
Once the rope is in position. The half glued heart can be juggled around keeping the rope end taut until the heart is positioned just aft of the bow fence, once there pull the rope over the other half of the heart, cut to size and super glue in position. We now have an open heart glued to a loop of rope around the bowsprit as in Photo 2
In Photo 3 the Open Heart has been lashed to the same temporary dowel as the first one and in this position the thin thread lashing is applied to fix the ropes to the ‘legs’ of the heart. (This time round I only put on the required three loops!)
The final Photo 4 follows the same procedure as the main stay below it. The lashing rope is removed from the Open Heart and used to secure the Closed Heart (I super’d the knots right from the start this time!) and finally the natural rigging thread was used again to lash the two hearts together. Once this lashing is in place, it covers up the join in the centre of the heart where the rope was glued together in two halves! After this photo was taken I then remembered to paint the open heart lashing threads over with the black Admiralty.
So that’s that for the rigging part till much later. I generally follow the procedure in Keith Julier’s excellent books regarding the rigging schedule, ie: all the fore and aft standing rigging goes in first which means I’ll need all the masts to be up before I start. Talking of masts, that dowel in the main mast holes has a decided lean to one side which I’ll have to explore at some time, it might just be the stay ropes pulling the undersized dowel over but I’ve got my doubts!! Crying
The next job will be to work on the poop deck alterations from the barricade to the skylight and flag lockers – lots more to do there!!

See you later and Happy Bodging to All! BigGrin

Robin
Plymouth57 attached the following image(s):
Preventer Hearts rigging pic.JPG
First wooden ship: The Grimsby 12 Gun 'Frigate' by Constructo Second: Bounty DelPrado Part Works Third: HMS Victory DelPrado Part Works 1/100 scale
Diorama of the Battle of the Brandywine from the American Revolutionary War Diorama of the Battle of New Falkland (unfinished sci-fi), Great War Centenary Diorama of the Messines Ridge Assault
Index for the Victory diary is on page 1
moriarty
#248 Posted : 02 August 2013 22:21:11

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Very nice work Robyn, sure is looking good BigGrin Cool
HMS Surprise
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sparks
#249 Posted : 02 August 2013 22:45:32

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Nicely done as usual Robin ThumpUp
But your not quite done with the rigging yet.
If I may suggest it's a good idea to get the main topsail sheets, main jeers and main clue garnets in before its too late as they belay to bits below the quarter deck and may prove difficult to get at later.




The larger of the ropes, the "main topsail sheet" belays to the "bits" below, that are visible from the waist, so I had to make the bits from scrap timber.


The other 2 lines, the "main jeers" and the "main clue garnets" belay to bits further back behind the main mast. as this was an afterthought, I was unable to put these in but managed to belay those lines to some eyebolts that I fixed to the upper deck through the openings either side of the mast, as this area won't be visible, I think I'll get away with it BigGrin

Hope that helps
regards
Alan
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Gandale
#250 Posted : 02 August 2013 23:46:58

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Robin, I stand and salute you for some wonderful and inspiring work.... Brilliant.... Drool Drool

Regards

Alan
Plymouth57
#251 Posted : 10 August 2013 00:24:15

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Hi All!

Many thanks again to the Alans and Mori, Doffed AND saluted now! I don't know how to cope with all this!! BigGrin (But keep it coming anyway!!!LOL ) Those below deck rigging lines will be going in before I start on the masts themselves Sparks, Thanks for reminding me! Some time to go yet though, poop deck fittings and then the chains plus a whole lot of made up eye bolts for the decks and hull to do up first and then those ropes!!Crying

A quick update on the poop deck progress so far. I'm making up the poop deck barricade at the moment. In actual fact it's pretty well completed, just the hammocks to fabricate and slip in the netting to go now but I haven't got any good photos of the finished article yet so here's the first part just to keep it going. Blink
The first part of the construction was virtually identical to the aft waist barricade. The stumpy square pedestals were cut roughly to length (actually I tried to cut them accurately but at only 3-4mm high they came out roughly!). The tiny blocks were then temporarily glued in a line on a strip of wood and once dry the strip became the handle to sand them all to the same height at the same time (just like the earlier barricade) After that, the shelf was made up from some spare first planking wood and glued to the pedestals following the pre-marked spacings.
The next job was to make up the twenty one fire bucket support brackets, tiny little rotters 1mm square and 5.5mm long! I used a length of 1mm square wood strip to create them, lighly sanding the strip before filing the flat step into the end of the strip. This step is to allow the support to sit on the shelf so each one was test fitted and any excess trimmed off. A 'V' groove was then filed into the top surface of the support with a triangular diamond file and finally the strip was cut to length a mm or so from the groove ready to start the next one.
When all twenty one were finished the spacing was marked onto the shelf and the supports PVA'd in place. When that glue was dry I then applied a drop of super in between the supports just to make sure. The final result before a coat of Admiralty Black is shown below in the bottom right pic. The preceeding pics are pretty much self explanatory, suffice it to say the little bleeders are not 100% identical but close enough in this scale to pass inspection (without a high powered microscope anyway! BigGrin )
Hopefully get the finished photos up over the weekend. Blink

See you soon. Flapper

Robin
Plymouth57 attached the following image(s):
Poop Deck Barricade Pt 1 pic.JPG
First wooden ship: The Grimsby 12 Gun 'Frigate' by Constructo Second: Bounty DelPrado Part Works Third: HMS Victory DelPrado Part Works 1/100 scale
Diorama of the Battle of the Brandywine from the American Revolutionary War Diorama of the Battle of New Falkland (unfinished sci-fi), Great War Centenary Diorama of the Messines Ridge Assault
Index for the Victory diary is on page 1
jase
#252 Posted : 10 August 2013 07:34:24

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Love your fire bucket arms. some real painstaking work but the results are great,

Good job ThumpUp

Jase
“Whenever you find yourself on the side of the majority, it is time to pause and reflect.”
-Mark Twain
Gandale
#253 Posted : 10 August 2013 09:02:54

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Hi Robin, you deserve the accolades for the inspiring work you do..... excellent once again.... Cool Cool

Regards

Alan
sparks
#254 Posted : 10 August 2013 18:18:20

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Amazing stuff Robin ThumpUp
Regards
Alan
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Hans
#255 Posted : 11 August 2013 19:40:33

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Love it, love it, love it.
Rgds, Hans
"It's okay to make mistakes. mistakes are our teachers - they help us to to learn, even if it is painfully"
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Plymouth57
#256 Posted : 11 August 2013 21:46:19

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Thanks again for those lovely comments boys, warm glow mode activated!

OK here's part two:
Once the lower part of the barricade was complete the next section was the hammock frame and netting. This was constructed in exactly the same manner as the waist barricade netting shown earlier in the build (more on that section below).
The basic frame of the hammock net was made from my new roll of 0.5mm brass wire. The wire was pulled out approx. six inches at a time and straightened out as best I could, (for these short lengths of about an inch or so, ‘fairly straight’ is fine). The wire was then bent into the ‘U’ shape, once the first one is done that is used as the pattern for the rest, many of them taking a couple of bendings and straightenings to get the size right. (I must think about making some kind of bending jig to make this job a little easier – there’s dozens more of these things to make around the decks!!). The ‘U’s were made a little longer than required so that the ‘helping hands’ tool would have something to hold on to when it was holding each frame in place for the soldering.
The first two frames were soldered onto the brass strip base, one at each end of the marked out length for the completed frame. Next came the most difficult part; soldering the straight horizontal rods onto the end frames at the correct height. For this length, I used a strip of same diameter brass rod as this was completely straight. This has to be securely soldered into place but without the soldering iron melting the blob of solder holding the end frame to the base! One side did OK, the other …..!!!Cursing
I got the rods in place eventually (I got these brass rods from a new supplier I found on the web by the name of “Eileen’s Emporium”. I only found this site when I was searching for Blacken-It and found a reference to brass for model railways at Eileen’s Emporium. They had a wider range of sizes of brass than many other suppliers I’ve used in the past, the prices aren’t bad at all and the delivery time was very good as well. I’d highly recommend this supplier for all kinds of metal bits and bobs. OK, adverts over and back to the program!Blushing
Where was I? Oh yeah, once the horizontal bars were in place on the inside of the frames, the other frames were then held inside the rods by the helping hands with their bases resting on the brass strip base before being soldered into their previously marked spacings. Note: their bases were not soldered down like the end frames, just where they touched the rod. Once all the frames were in, the excess lengths were snipped off with a pair of small snips leaving the framework as seen in the left hand photo below.
The snipped ends and any ‘blobs’ of solder were ground away with the rotary and a diamond cut off disc before the ‘U’ frames were painted with Admiralty Metal Black and the rods painted with Citadel grey. (Forgot to say the two end frames were gently de-soldered and the frame removed from the base before the painting stage!Blushing )
The next task was to paint a section of my flimsier black nylon mesh with the same grey acrylic and, once dry, cut to size to fit into the frame. To do this I used a piece of thin card, wrapped the mesh around the edge of the card and then slid it down into the frame. By lining one edge of the mesh up with the rod I could then gently slice a slit into the mesh on the other side of the card, again in line with the other rod, remove the mesh and with a metal ruler as a straight edge, cut the mesh to size with a safety razor blade. That was the ‘easy’ bit done!Blink
The final task was to cut a length of white cotton thread to form the lashing to secure the mesh to the rods. The reason I mentioned the earlier waist barricade netting was that I had already done this procedure on that frame. Unfortunately, instead of the cotton thread I did it with my thinnest rigging thread and after I’d finished and put more super glue on it than I should have, I decided that the lashing was too thick, not only that but the end ‘U’ frame broke away and refused to be glued back no matter what I tried to use on it. So… I’ve decided to start that one again from scratch – Oh Joy!
The cotton thread was treated to the super glue stiffened end routine and starting at one end passed the ‘awl’ through a mesh hole then back around the rod and through the mesh again, basically, sewing the mesh to the rod. Very fiddly and very time consuming but the final effect I think is well worth the effort. The finished frame was then super glued into position on top of the barricade shelf with it’s bucket supports. The final act in this performance is yet to come, I’m going to make up some white Milliput epoxy putty and roll it out into a very thin sausage before slicing that sausage into short lengths, the same scale length as the hammocks. Once hardened off, these will be inserted into the netting to fill up the frames as they were in action.
More on that later.

See you soon and Happy Building to All BigGrin

Robin

Ah! I just remembered something. That problem I mentioned with the dowel in the main mast hole leaning over was a false alarm! Because that dowel was slimmer than the main mast it wasn't actually sitting on the mast footing, it had gone right down to the bottom of the keel off to one side! Blushing Blushing Phew!

Plymouth57 attached the following image(s):
Poop Deck Barricade Pt 2 pic2.JPG
First wooden ship: The Grimsby 12 Gun 'Frigate' by Constructo Second: Bounty DelPrado Part Works Third: HMS Victory DelPrado Part Works 1/100 scale
Diorama of the Battle of the Brandywine from the American Revolutionary War Diorama of the Battle of New Falkland (unfinished sci-fi), Great War Centenary Diorama of the Messines Ridge Assault
Index for the Victory diary is on page 1
sparks
#257 Posted : 11 August 2013 22:11:02

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Great stuff Robin ThumpUp
Can't wait to see how you tackle the fire buckets.
Regards
Alan
England expects that every man will do his duty.
Plymouth57
#258 Posted : 11 August 2013 23:19:05

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Hmmm, yeah! That makes two of us!! BigGrin

Robin
First wooden ship: The Grimsby 12 Gun 'Frigate' by Constructo Second: Bounty DelPrado Part Works Third: HMS Victory DelPrado Part Works 1/100 scale
Diorama of the Battle of the Brandywine from the American Revolutionary War Diorama of the Battle of New Falkland (unfinished sci-fi), Great War Centenary Diorama of the Messines Ridge Assault
Index for the Victory diary is on page 1
NMBROOK
#259 Posted : 11 August 2013 23:24:30

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I would just like to say what a fantastic build and amazing attention to detail RobinCool Cool Taking the scale into account makes it doubly
impressive.
Kind Regards Nigel
Gandale
#260 Posted : 11 August 2013 23:25:51

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Love it Robin, simply love it..... Love Love .. Think when I start my Vic your diary will be in full view so I don't miss any of the tips and techniques you describe.....LOL LOL .. You have come a long way since you first started this upgrade and now look at her....Love Love

Regards

Alan
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