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Official HMS Sovereign of the Seas Build Diary - Issues 16 - 20 Options
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#1 Posted : 30 November 2012 14:27:56
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Mark Adams
Tomick
#2 Posted : 13 December 2012 15:39:30

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Issue 16 - Contains laser-cut gallery frame parts, bambo planking, sapele planking and pins.

Adding the gallery framework to the stern - Take the partially assembled hull.

Remove the two #46 supports from the fret, then then into place on either side of the false keel at the stern as shown. Clamp in place and ensure that the top edges are flush with the top of the keel frame and that the slot for frame 27 is clear, also remove any excess glue from the slots of the #46 parts.

Remove the #49 frame halves from the fret. Smooth the edges with fine sandpaper to remove the laser ash.
Apply glue on the inner edge of the parts, as shown by the dotted line in the steps, then insert each into the central slot of support #46. Make sure that the half-frame forms a right angle with the keel, (you can use the deck extension piece #47 as a fitting guide, which can also be glued in place at the same time as noted below.

Remove the stern deck extension #47 from the fret, then apply glue along the entire upper edge of the four elements you assembled (the two support elements 46 and the two half-frames 49), and fit the deck extension in place. Check that the extension forms a right angle with the two half-frames underneath, and that all the joints fit properly, (the extension is approx 2mm higher than the deck).

Retrieve the frame 27 gallery assembly that you assembled at the end of Issue 15.
Apply glue to the lower slot, indicated by the dotted line, then apply glue along the rear edge of the stern deck extension.
Place the stern assembly so that frame 27 fits into the keel, as shown in the step photo. Check that the stern assembly and the stern deck extension form a right angle.

Remove the #48 bracing pieces from the fret. Apply glue on the inner edge and on one face of the piece, and and fit them to the front of frame 27, taking care that the upper edge of the piece butts up to the underside of the stern extension piece #47. Check that the outer edge of the bracing pieces is aligned with the rounded profile of rib 27a

Oars and Bucket - Retrieve the eight oars , the bucket and the bucket handle, which you received with Issue 13.

Remove any burrs from the parts with a fine file.

Prime the parts with a metal primer. Then paint the oar paddles ivory, and the shafts a wood colour of your choice.

Allow the paint to dry, then bind the eight oars together using a length of 0.15mm thread which was provided in Issue 13.

Paint the bucket a wood colour and its bands metallic black, and paint the handle ivory. Then glue the handle onto the bucket.

That's it for this stage, carefully store the oar set and bucket.

Future Issues:

Issue 17 - Contains bamboo & sapele wooden planking strips and pin-nails.

Issue 18 - Contains bamboo & sapele wooden planking strips and pin-nails.

Issue 19 - Contains bamboo & sapele wooden planking strips and pin-nails.

Issue 20 - Contains bamboo & sapele wooden planking strips and pin-nails.
Tomick attached the following image(s):
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Tomick
#3 Posted : 17 December 2012 14:22:53

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Issue 17 - Contains bamboo & sapele wooden planking strips and pin-nails.

Before you make a start, just a few notes about hull fairing and the laying the first hull plank/strake...
Take your time with hull fairing as it is probably one of the most important procedures that will dictate the appearance of your hull, so it is well worth the time to get it right. Remember that it is better to remove a little material at a time than remove too much in one go, which can mean additional work to put it right.

The Bearding line is a term used to indicate a tapered section upon the false keel at either the bow or the stern., in our case this relates to the stern process shown at step 5 on page 11.
This transition needs to be a smooth and free flowing without severe curve or step. If the latter occurs a depression or bump willl appear in the planked hull. So take your time with and look at this step carefully and from all directions. Run your fingers over the transition surface or lay a temporary plank along the frames to check the plank flow.

The bamboo plank used to gauge the bow fairing should be free from knots as this will affect the natural flow of the timber, (the bamboo is the off-white in colour). Pre-drilling the planks may be necessary to prevent the pins from splitting the wood or the pins bending., you'll likely need to pilot drill both ends of each plank to prevent split. Also ensure that you glue each plank to the next plank as well as to the frames, and remove any excess glue from the visible side.

The bow plank - Take the hull as you left it at the end of the last phase of assembly, and after having shaped a bamboo strip using plank-bending pliers or via you chosen method, bend the strip across the bow formers to identify the areas on the frames which to be chamfered, so that the strip rests on the whole thickness of the frame rather than a corner edge.
Use a long file or long sanding block to chamfer the edges of the bow frames as shown in the steps.

Then continue with the hull fairing at the stern, and chamfer the stern frames in a similar way., it is essential that the edge of the ribs follows the flow of the hull. You an use a strip of bamboo to check the planking flow, but be careful no to change the profile shape of the frames during the chamfering process.

Create the bearding line - Shape the two bracing pieces (part #24 on each side of the hull) as shown, to create a bearding line. As mentioned about, this needs to be a smooth transition taper.

Planking the underside of the gallery - Turn the hull over, then cut, glue and pin a bamboo strip onto the to the stern brackets. Ensure that this and subsequent strips, are long enough to extend beyond the #30 outer brackets. Do not drive the pins in completely, as you will need to remove them later on.

Repeat the same procedure and continue to cover the stern brackets by adding four more strips, as shown, the final one should touch the sternpost, (the photo shows 6 strips up to the sternpost but I found that 5 was enough).

When the glue is fully dry, carefully remove all the pins with pliers.

Continue covering the stern brackets. Cut four strips in half and glue them to the right and left of the sternpost.
Cut a strip in half lengthwise, then glue the two parts above the strips on the sides of the sternpost, as shown in the steps.
Use fine sandpaper to smooth the edges of the last two strips so that they are level with the bottom edge of the stern brackets.

Complete the upper part of the stern strakes by gluing three more strips. Use sandpaper to level the last strip with the edge of the bracket.

Trim and sand the side edges of all of the strips until they align with the profle shape of frame #27.

Laying the first planks/strakes - Starting on the left (port) side of the model at bow former #8, glue and pin the first plank in place, which should extend to half way across frame #13, (do not fully insert the pins as they will be remved later on)., the top of the plank should be level with the top of the deck.

Fix a second strip next to the first. Glue and pin it to frames 13, 15, 16, 20 and 21 and it midway across frame #21. Ensure that the planking is glued to each other as well as to the framework.

Fix a third strip from the middle of frame #21 to the end of the stern, aligning it with the top of the strake on the gallery. (I left a small overhang at the stern until we catch sight of how the gallery panel fits).

When the glue is fully dry, remove all the pins, except those in the final three frames at the stern, where you will need to cut-off the pin heads using side cutters, and then push the shanks completely into the strip, (protect your eyes from the flying pin-heads!)

Repeat the first plank fitting process on the right (starboard) side of the model. Note - You must leave a central gap between this and the opposite plank of 4mm, which is to create a slot for the bow stem. (For a snug fit, you can fit the previously made bow stem to gauge the gap as you move down the bow, but DO NOT glue it into place).

Don't worry too much about the surface appearance of the planking, as later on the upper half of the hull will be second planked with the sapele veneer strips, and the half with basswood veneer strips, which are provided later on.

That's it for this stage, carefully store the remaining bamboo off-cuts & strips which wil be used in the next stage, and store the sapele strips for later in the build.

Future issues:

Issue 18 - Contains bamboo & sapele wooden planking strips and pin-nails.

Issue 19 - Contains bamboo & sapele wooden planking strips and pin-nails.

Issue 20 - Contains bamboo & sapele wooden planking strips and pin-nails.

Issue 21 - Contians bamboo & sapele wooden planking strips and pin-nails.
Tomick attached the following image(s):
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Tomick
#4 Posted : 22 December 2012 14:05:23

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Issue 18 - Contains bamboo & sapele wooden planking strips and pin-nails.

Take the hull as you left it at the end of the last assembly session.

Bend a bamboo strip until it takes the curve of the hull and apply glue onto the bow formers and the first three frames as well as the edge of the plank.
Then pin the strip below the one you fixed previously, making sure that it is perfectly in line with the first, and drive the pins only partially in, so that you can remove later on. Cut the strip at the midpoint of frame #7.

Glue and pin a second strip in the same way, cutting it at the midpoint of frame #20. You should ensure that the planking strips are glued to each other as well as to the hull framework.

Glue and pin a third strip from the midpoint of frame #20 to the end of the hull.

Allow the glue to dry completely and remove the pins, except those at the ends of the strips, with small pliers. Cut the heads off the end pins and push them all the way in.

Each planking row should be fixed alternately on each side of the hull.
Repeat the operation with a second row of strips on the other side of the hull.

Add a third row of strips. Bend, glue and pin the first strip, cutting it at the midpoint of frame #13. Fit another strip, cutting it at the midpoint of frame #21, and fit the third strip from the midpoint of frame #21 to the end of the stern.

Fit a third row of planks on the oposite side of the hull.

Fit a fourth row of strips on both sides of the hull - From the bow to midpoint of frame #7, frame #7 to midpoint of frame #20, then from frame #20 to the end of the stern.

Taper a strip until you achieve the result shown in the photo, (see step 19 for an improved view), a David's plane is useful for this task.
Smooth the cut surface with fine sandpaper, then bend, glue and pin the tapered strip in place as shown in the steps. The top tapered edge mates with the un-tapered bottom edge of the proceeding plank, which will make a smother flow of the planks at the bow (also at stern) and will prevent the planks twisting and dropping away at the ends.

Fit strips to complete a fifth row, from the bow to midpoint of frame #13, from frame #13 to midpoint of frame #21, then from frame 21 to the end of the stern.

Repeat to fit a fifth row on the other side of the hull.

Fitting the garboard plank - If you used a build jig it has now served its purpose. Remove the model from the jig and lay it upside down on a flat surface.

Taper a bamboo strip at one end to make the garboard plank as shown in step 15, then glue and pin it onto the frames alongside the false keel. Cut it at the midpoint of frame 15.

Fit another strip following the previous one, cutting it at the midpoint of frame 21.

Twist a strip, as shown in step 17, glue and pin it alonside the previous two planks. The top edge of the strip needs to be fited 6mm down from the edge of the false keel.

Repeat the process to fit the garboard plank on the other side of the hull. Ensure that you have a 4mm centreline gap alog the keel as indicated in step 18, which is where the keel wil be fitted into later on, (you can use the edge of the bow support frame to guage the slot).

Fit a second row of strips alonside the ones already fixed on both sides of the keel and ensure that the taper is maintained. Cut the strips at frames 13 and 20, making the end of the third strip fit perfectly to that of the strip in the first row.

Shape the ends of a strip as shown in step 21, then fix a third row of strips on both sides of the hull. When fixing the third strip at the stern, leave a 1.5mm angled gap between this and the previous plamnk laid, as shown in step 22.

That's it for this stage, carefully store the remaining bamboo off-cuts and strips, also the sapele strips for later on.

Future issues:

Issue 19 - Contains bamboo & sapele wooden planking strips and pin-nails.

Issue 20 - Contains bamboo & sapele wooden planking strips and pin-nails.

Issue 21 - Contians bamboo & sapele wooden planking strips and pin-nails.

Issue 22 - Contains two gun kits and blocks.
Tomick attached the following image(s):
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Tomick
#5 Posted : 07 January 2013 09:06:34

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Posts: 45,863
Points: -6,838
Issue 19 - Contains bamboo & sapele wooden planking strips and pin-nails.

Continuing the hull planking - Turn the hul upside down, (I opted to protect the top of the bow frame and gallery top with some card padding which was taped in place with masking tape).

Taper the end a strip as indicated in the steps, then bend and cut it midway across frame #7. Glue and pin the strip in place, then cut, glue and pin a further strip aft, from frame #7 to half way across frame #20.
Add the stern strip from frame #20 to the end of the keel, leaving a gap of 2mm from the previous plank fitted and leave a slight overhang at the stern post.

Repeat on the oposite side of the hull, when the glue has fully dried carefully remove the pins.

Turn the hull over. Taper a strip as shown in the steps, the bend/fit it in place along side the previous plank fitted, cut the strip midway across frame #7.
Fit a further strip aft from frame #7 to midway acros frame #20, then complete row six with a strip fitted from frame #20 to slightly overhang the gallery planking.

Repeat on the opposite side of the hull.

Now fit a 7th row of strips, taper the first at the biow and cut it midway across frame #13, then fit another plank from frame #13 to midway across frame #21, then the final plank from frame #21 and cut it slightly overhanging the gallery planking.

Repeat on the opposite side of the hull.

As we move down the hull, to get a good fit of the planks, some chamfering of the plank edges will be required as the planking turns the corner of the frames. To gauge the amount of bevel required, test fit the plank into position to see how its edge mates with the previous plank fitted, sand the edge as required to obtain a good fit.

Painting the ships boat - Mask the exterior of the boat as shown, then paint the upper half maroon/burgundy to match the interior. When the paint has dried, remove the tape and set the boat aside for further finishing at the next stage.

That's it for this stage, carefully store the remaining bamboo and sapele strips.

Future issues:

Issue 20 - Contains bamboo & sapele wooden planking strips and pin-nails.

Issue 21 - Contians bamboo & sapele wooden planking strips and pin-nails.

Issue 22 - Contains two gun kits and blocks.

Issue 23 - Contians bamboo & sapele wooden planking strips and pin-nails.
Tomick attached the following image(s):
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Tomick
#6 Posted : 14 January 2013 17:01:09

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Joined: 24/08/2009
Posts: 45,863
Points: -6,838
Issue 20 - Contains bamboo & sapele wooden planking strips and pin-nails.

Continuing the hull planking - Fit another three rows of planks along each side of the hull (alternately) and also taper each at the bow as shown.
I found that a taper is also required at the stern planking if the planking height is to reflect that shown in steps 13/14 so as not over run in height, (a further two planking rows are added in issue 23 which are shown as sharp tapered at the stern to the same fix point).

Remember to glue the planks to each other as as well as the frames.

This completes 10 rows of upper hull planking on each side of the hull.

Cut-off and then sand the overhang of strips at the stern so they are flush with the gallery planking.

Fitting out the ships boat - Take the 1x3mm strips provided with issue 13.
You can either paint the strips in your chosen colour now (ivory is recommended), or the boards once fitted.

Mark a centre line along the hull interior, then cut two 56mm long pieces of the 1x3mm strip. Fit and glue one strip either side of the centreline.
Continue to fit and shape the floorboards as shown.

That's it for this stage, carefully store the remaining 1x3mm strips, bamboo planking and sapele strips.

Future issues:

Issue 21 - Contains bamboo & sapele wooden planking strips and pin-nails.

Issue 22 - Contains two gun kits and blocks.

Issue 23 - Contains bamboo & sapele wooden planking strips and pin-nails.

Issue 24 - Contains bamboo & sapele wooden planking strips and pin-nails.
Tomick attached the following image(s):
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