Welcome Guest Search | Active Topics | Log In | Register

Official HMS Victory Cross Section Build Diary - Issues 146 - 150 Options
admin
#1 Posted : 04 January 2013 14:59:55
Rank: Administration


Groups: Administrator, Administrators

Joined: 24/08/2009
Posts: 928
Points: 2,926
BigGrin
Mark Adams
Tomick
#2 Posted : 18 January 2013 16:16:20

Rank: Newbie
Build-Diary Medal: Build-Diary Medal of HonourPublisher Medal: Article published MedalActive Service Medal: 500 post active service MedalPurple Medal: Super active service medal for 1000 postsRed Medal: Red MedalTurquoise Medal: Turquoise Medal for model making know-how contribution
Groups:

Joined: 08/03/2010
Posts: 19,138
Points: 53,381
Issue 146 - Contains laser-cut beams, knees, mast collar, elm tree pump extension and wooden strips, and has instructions for fitting the shot garlands & mess table supports, extending the elm tree pump, planking the upper gun deck, fitting the knees and making the 12-pounder guns.

Fitting the shot garlands - Make the shot garlands for the gratings as before. Use 1.5x3mm strip from issue 144 to make the garlands for the forward and aft gratings. Stain them dark oak to match the deck and add the cannon balls.

Fitting the hammocks - Hammock material was provided in Issue 142, but is only needed if you are building the "night" version of the model. Follow the magazine steps for fitting these.

Fitting the mess table supports - This is a repeat proces of securing the previous mess tables, cut two lengths of 2mm dowel 43mm long, flatten one side, add a central groove, then glue a dowel to the back of frame 3 and another the front of frame 7. Secure the mess table as described previously in issue 44. Repeat on the opposite side of the model.

Extending the second elm tree pump - You may wish to fill the letter 'B' marking on the pump before painting it brown to match the previous section of column. Then glue the column in place.

Planking the upper gun deck - Use the 1x4mm planks provided with Issues 141 and 142. Cut two planks to fit between the fore and aft gratings. One side will need a recess to clear the elm tree pump.

Plank the upper gun deck as before, and also create a raised central section between the gratings as before.

Sand the ends of the deck, then stain it dark oak. Touch up the white of the deck beems if needed.

Paint the gun port linings red ochre and the bulwarks yellow ochre, and paint the small sections of deck support beam white.

Fitting the knees - The knees of the upper deck do not have irons. Shape a cut-out in the knees as before. Fit the larger knees just inboard of the two gun ports, and the smaller knees beneath the middle and outer brackets. Repeat on the other side of the model.

Drill both bullwarks as per the plan for the placement of the eyebolts later on.

Making the 12-pounder guns - The four 12-pounder guns are provided with Issues 144 and 145. Assemble the 12-pounders using the instructions for the 32-pounders in Issue 39.
Although the guns are smaller, the assembly is identical. The larger wheels are fitted at the front and smaller at the rear.

I opted to add the rigging to the guns prior to installing the guns later on, the rigging is identical to the 32-pounders.

That's it for this stage, store the remaining parts.

Future issues:

Issue 147 - Contains assorted wooden strips., and has instructions for placement of the 12-pounder guns, fitting the mast collar, fitting the second pump head and quarter deck beams, making the deck support posts, adding the shot garlands and adding the gunners' tools.

Issue 148 - Contains assorted wooden strips, turned wooden columns, barrels, deadeyes, belaying pins, brass wire, wriggles, chain links and pins., and has instructions for adding the wales, adding buckets & barrelss to the upper deck, making the quarter deck openings, planking the quarter deck & bulwarks, adding the mast collar and adding the cockpit framing and rail.
Tomick attached the following image(s):
X146-1.JPG
X146-2.JPG
X146-3.JPG
X146-4.JPG
X146-5.JPG
X146-6.JPG
X146-7.JPG
X146-8.JPG
X146-9.JPG
X146-10.JPG
Tomick
#3 Posted : 28 January 2013 15:43:28

Rank: Newbie
Build-Diary Medal: Build-Diary Medal of HonourPublisher Medal: Article published MedalActive Service Medal: 500 post active service MedalPurple Medal: Super active service medal for 1000 postsRed Medal: Red MedalTurquoise Medal: Turquoise Medal for model making know-how contribution
Groups:

Joined: 08/03/2010
Posts: 19,138
Points: 53,381
Issue 147 - Contains assorted wooden strips., and has instructions for placement of the 12-pounder guns, fitting the mast collar & second pump head, fitting the quarter deck beams, making the deck support posts, adding the shot garlands and adding the gunners' tools.

Adding the 12-pounder guns - The 12-pounder guns are rigged slightly differently to the 32-pounders, but as with the lower deck, the guns can be placed run in or run out. Follow the steps for your chosen version, (I rigged one side run in and the oposite side run out to match the lower deck guns).

Fitting the mast collar - Take the three parts of mast collar provided with Issue 146 and stain them walnut. Fix the parts of the collar together in place around the mast, trimming them if necessary.

Adding the second pump head - The second elm tree pump terminates with a pump head as on the lower gun deck.
Assemble and paint the elm tree pump head and handle, following the instructions in Issue 140. Glue the pump head on top of the pump column protruding from the deck, with the handle angled 45 degrees aft.

Fitting the quarter deck beams - The laser-cut beams were supplied with Issue 146.
Try the long deck beams in position, trim them to fit if necessary, as shown in Issue 135 page 11. You may need to sand the bottom of the beam where it rests on the knee to get the top of the beam flush with the top of the bracket.

Paint the sides and bottoms of all the beams white.

Take the long beam that has the two notches close to the ends, and glue it across the front of the model. Take the other two long beams that have the notches closer to the middle. Glue them across the rear of the model. Take the short beams that have two notches close to each other, and glue them fore-and-aft across the beams from Step 4, noting the positions of the notches. Make sure the beams are horizontal and flush with the top of the forward beam. Let the glue dry before continuing.

Take the short beam that fits across the notches in front ofthe mast and glue it in place. Then add the two half beams between the remaining notches and the support brackets. Add the shorter fore-and-aft beams between the half beams and the front beam, noting which way round thenotches go.
Add the long central beam. As this fits from underneath, you need to hold it in position with small clamps while the glue dries.
Add the shortest beams on both sides of the model. Let the glue dry thoroughly before continuing.

Using a razor saw, cut away the centre of the forward beam to form the cockpit opening. Cut flush with the beams fitted earlier, but do not damage them. Tidy up the cut with sandpaper then touch any exposed beam ends with white paint.

Making the deck support posts - As on the deck below, the deck beams are supported by four corner posts. Make these from the wood supplied in Issue 146.
Measure and cut two deck support posts from 4x5mm wood to fit under the transverse beam fitted earlier. Stain the posts walnut and glue them in place.
Repeat the process to make and fit two beams at the aft of the model. Refer to Issue 145 page 13 for more details.
Cut a 60mm length of 2 x 3mm wood (supplied in Issue 146). Place it against the support columns and mark their positions.
Then cut two slots, 1.5mm deep. Check that they fit over the columns as shown. Stain and glue the bar in position 9mm above the raised centre section deck. Repeat the process to make an identical bar to fit on the aft columns.

Adding the shot garlands - Make shot garlands from 1.5x3mm strip as before and use the cannonballs supplied in Issue 143. Follow the steps given in Issue 146, but stop the garlands for the front grating in line with its sides. Make the aft garlands exactly the same as those described in Issue 146.

Adding the gunners' tools - Make four sets of gun tools as described in Issue 142. However, in Step 1, make the handles 35mm long. Use the 0.5mm brass wire supplied in Issues 129 and 142 to make two brackets per gun, using the instructions in Issue 142. However, in this case, you need to make the brackets 9mm high from top to bottom.
Fit two brackets to the middle beam as shown, 10mm and 30mm from the bulwark.

Fit two brackets to beam 7 as shown, also positioning them at 10mm and 30mm from the bulwark. Add the tools, securing them with a clear glue as in Issue 144, For now I set the tools aside and will glue them into the holders later on.

That's it for this stage, carefully store the remaining wooden strip.

Future Issues:

Issue 148 - Contains assorted wooden strips, turned wooden columns, barrels, deadeyes, belaying pins, brass wire, wriggles, chain links and pins., and has instructions for adding the wales, adding buckets & barrelss to the upper deck, making the quarter deck openings, planking the quarter deck & bulwarks, adding the mast collar and adding the cockpit framing and rail.

Issue 149 - Contains assorted wooden strips, brass wire, cranes and wriggles.
Tomick attached the following image(s):
X147-1.JPG
X147-2.JPG
X147-3.JPG
X147-4.JPG
X147-5.JPG
X147-6.JPG
X147-7.JPG
X147-8.JPG
X147-9.JPG
X147-10.JPG
X147-11.JPG
X147-12.JPG
X147-13.JPG
X147-14.JPG
X147-15.JPG
X147-16.JPG
Tomick
#4 Posted : 08 February 2013 16:43:41

Rank: Newbie
Build-Diary Medal: Build-Diary Medal of HonourPublisher Medal: Article published MedalActive Service Medal: 500 post active service MedalPurple Medal: Super active service medal for 1000 postsRed Medal: Red MedalTurquoise Medal: Turquoise Medal for model making know-how contribution
Groups:

Joined: 08/03/2010
Posts: 19,138
Points: 53,381
Issue 148 - Contains assorted wooden strips, turned wooden columns, barrels, deadeyes, belaying pins, brass wire, wriggles, chain links and pins., and has instructions for adding the wales, adding buckets & barrels to the upper deck, making the quarter deck openings, planking the quarter deck & bulwarks, adding the mast collar and adding the cockpit framing and rail.

Adding the wales - Make the main wales from 1x4mm strips, supplied in this issue and Issue 134. Use the 1x5mm strip from Issues 140 and 143 for the mid and upper wales, and the 1x3mm strip from Issue 143 for the channel wale.
For the main wales, cut ten strips of 1x4 mm wood slightly over length. Glue the first one 2mm below the lower gun port. Glue another four strips below the first one, making a total of five strips to build up the main wale.
Draw a pencil line 4mm above the lower gun ports, using a piece of 1x4mm strip as a gauge.

Fit a 1x5mm strip above the pencil line, and then add another strip above it, (the upper strip intentionally covers the bottom of the entry port).

Draw a pencil line 1.5mm above the entry port, and glue two 1x5mm strips above this pencil line.

Cut an 8mm wide strip of card, making notches to clear any projecting gun barrels. Rest the strip on the upper wale.

Draw a pencil line along the top of the strip, and glue a 1x3mm strip above the pencil line.

Repeat all the steps to add the wales on the other side of the model.

Cut and sand the parts of the wales that overhang the sides of the model, the entry ports and upper gun ports. Touch up any minor paint damage with wood stain and/or paint if necessary.

Adding the buckets and barrels to the upper deck - As on the lower deck, buckets and barrels are placed around the guns. The barrels are provided with this issue, and the buckets were provided with Issues 126 and 131.
Prepare one bucket and two barrels for each gun, following the instructions given in Issue 143. Then position the buckets and barrels according to your personal preference.

Making the quarter deck openings - The openings either side of the main mast on the real Victory currently have gratings fitted, but as period drawings of the ship show that there were open frames here, the magazine build has not fitted gratings. However, there should be enough strips of grating material left over to add these if you wish.

Using 2x3mm wood from Issue 147, cut three lengths 9mm long, and two lengths 45mm long to make the frame for each opening.
Glue a short piece to a long piece, using a construction brick or other improvised object as a square. Note that the short piece fits against the side of the long one.
Complete the rectangular frame with another short and long strip.

Glue the remaining strip inside the frame, 15mm from one end. Place the 3mm side flush with the bottom of the frame, so the top is recessed by 1mm.

Make a second identical frame and stain both frames dark oak.

Try the frames in position. The end with the 15mm gap goes forward, with the front edge of the frame 4mm behind the front edge of the cockpit opening. There needs to be enough room between the mast and frames to fit the mast collar leaving about 0.5mm gap.

Glue both frames to the deck beams.

Planking the quarter deck and bulwarks - The 1.5x4mm strips needed to plank these areas were supplied with Issue 147. The 1.5x5mm strips were supplied with earlier issues and you should have some left over from planking inside the hull.

Use 1.5x4mm planks for the deck. Chamfer the edge of thefirst plank to fit against the frames. ‘Caulk’ it with a black marker and glue it in place, holding it with pins if necessary.

Continue planking the deck until you reach the edge of the cockpit opening. You can use a 1.5x5mm strip to fill in the last plank if the remaining gap is between 4mm and 5mm. The wider plank will not be obvious on the finished deck.
Continue planking up to the last whole plank before the frames.

Carefully plank around the frames and round the mast, cutting the planks to it as necessary. and the edges smooth, including those around the cockpit opening.

Trim and sand the top of the hull planking until it is flush with the deck. Don’t sand the top of the bulwark planking just yet.

Plank the inside of the bulwark with 1.5x5mm strips. Cut the first plank to length and chamfer the bottom edge to fit against the deck.

Continue planking until the top strip overlaps the top of the frames, (If the planking ends up just short of the frames, glue a narrow strip on top of the last plank).

Sand the top of the bulwark planking flush with the top of the frames. Then stain the deck dark oak and touch up any minor damage to the white or yellow ochre paint. You can leave 2-3mm unpainted at the edge of the cockpit opening to provide a stronger glue joint for the cockpit edging.

Adding the mast collar - The laser-cut sections for the mast collar were supplied with Issue 144.

Stain the three sections of the mast collar walnut, then fit them around the mast, trimming them as necessary.

Adding the cockpit framing and rail - The wooden strips and columns used to make the rail are supplied with this issue. You will also need some of the 1x4mm wood supplied with Issue 147.
Take a piece of 1x5mm strip, and mark the width of the cockpit opening. Make sure that there is at least a 3mm overhang at each end.
Cut the strip 3mm beyond the pencil marks. Lay it across the cockpit opening, butted up against the ends of the frames. It will overhang the deck beam by a millimetre or so.

Cut a 1x4mm strip to fit alongside the cockpit opening, between the strip you just placed and the front of the model. Cut a matching piece for the other side of the model.

Paint all three strips black, or stain them a colour of your choice. Glue the 1x5 mm strip back in place. You will need to hold it with clamps while the glue dries.

Glue the shorter 1x4mm strips in place so that they overhang the sides of the opening by 1mm.

Using a piece of 1x5mm strip, cut two pieces 35mm long and one piece 20mm long. Cut eight short blocks 4mm long from the 3x3mm strip. Round the ends of the 1x5mm strips, then Glue the blocks of 3 x 3mm wood to the 1x5mm strips in the positions shown and allow the glue to fully dry, (make sure the bases of the columns are flat before gluing them).

Paint the three rail assemblies black.

Glue the longer rails to the cockpit frame with superglue. Line up the ends of the rails with the inside edge of the frame, (Prime the ends of the 3x3mm blocks with drops of superglue to fill the grain and allow to dry).

Glue the shorter rail centrally between the outer rails, then gently sand the tops of the pillars so that they form a smooth curve following the camber of the deck.

Cut another 1x5 mm strip the same length as the overall length of the cockpit rail, and radius its ends.

Glue the columns on the tops of the rails, directly over the 3x3mm blocks.

Mark the positions of each of the pillars on the strip. Then make a very shallow razor saw cut at each mark. Be careful not to cut too deeply – you need only a shallow groove to assist with fitting the hammock cranes. Paint the rail black, trying to keep paint out of the grooves, into which the cranes will go later.

Prime the tops of the pillars with superglue as before, then glue the rail in place with superglue.

Paint the beams around the cockpit opening black.

That's it for this stage, carefully store the remaining parts.

Future Issues:

Issue 149 - Contains assorted wooden strips, brass wire, hammock cranes, wriggles, hammock netting, thread & die-cast hinges., and has instructions for finishing the bulwarks, making the timberheads, pinrails & kevels, adding the bulwark mouldings and making the main mast pin rails.

The final Issue 150 - Contains wooden strips, companionway strips, ballast, HMS Victory name plate and entry port canopy castings.
Tomick attached the following image(s):
X148-1.JPG
X148-2.JPG
X148-3.JPG
X148-4.JPG
X148-5.JPG
X148-6.JPG
X148-7.JPG
X148-8.JPG
X148-9.JPG
X148-10.JPG
X148-11.JPG
X148-12.JPG
X148-13.JPG
X148-14.JPG
X148-15.JPG
X148-16.JPG
Tomick
#5 Posted : 08 March 2013 13:23:17

Rank: Newbie
Build-Diary Medal: Build-Diary Medal of HonourPublisher Medal: Article published MedalActive Service Medal: 500 post active service MedalPurple Medal: Super active service medal for 1000 postsRed Medal: Red MedalTurquoise Medal: Turquoise Medal for model making know-how contribution
Groups:

Joined: 08/03/2010
Posts: 19,138
Points: 53,381
Issue 149 - Contains assorted wooden strips, brass wire, hammock cranes, wriggles, hammock netting, thread & die-cast hinges., and has instructions for finishing the bulwarks, making the timberheads, pinrails & kevels, adding the bulwark mouldings and making the main mast pin rails.

You will need a selection of different sizes of wood strip, including some provided earlier on: 4x5mm strip from Issue 146, 1x1mm strip from Issue 147, 2x10mm strip from Issue 147, 1.5x4mm strips from Issue 147, 1.5x5mm strip from Issue 148, 2x3mm strip from Issue 148, 1x10mm strip from this issue and Issue 147, and a 2x 6mm strip from this issue.

Finishing the bulwarks - Enclose the ends of the short section of bulwark on the quarterdeck, and add the bulwark cap rails.

Cut a 1x10mm strip to face the front end of the bulwark. Glue it into place, then sand the top and sides flush with the hull planking.

Cut another piece of 1x10mm strip to cover the top of the hull between the front face of the bulwark and the front of the model. Trim this accurately, without leaving any overhang.
Cut two shallow grooves with a razor saw. Make one 2mm from the end of the strip, and the other 15mm.

Paint the strip black, trying to avoid getting glue in the grooves. Glue this in place with the 2mm groove at the front of the model. The outer edge should overhang the planking by 1mm.

Cut a strip from 2x6mm wood to extend the planking aft from the end of the bulwark to the end of the model.

Bevel the bottom edge and glue it in line with the planks on the inside of the bulwark.

Repeat to fit another 2x6mm strip flush with the outside of the hull planking.

Sand a piece of 2x3mm wood to fill the gap at the end ofthe planks. Glue it in place, making sure that it’s flush with the rib frame. Allow the glue to dry thoroughly before continuing.

Sand the tops of the planks so that they follow the line ofthe deck. Sand the ends flush with the rib frame as well, and sand the faces of the planks flush with the outside of the hull.

Add a facing piece cut from 1x10mm strip as you did earlier.

Use two lengths of 1.5x4mm strip side by side to cap the top of the bulwark. Then sand the sides, top and end of the strips smooth and flush. Repeat all the steps on the other side of the model.

Make the timberheads - The timberheads are the top ends of the ribs that project above the gunwale, and were used when belaying ropes.

Start by making two full timberheads per side. A: cut a 9mm length of 4x5mm strip. B: Make a shallow saw cut half-way down the sides. C: Taper the sides of the top section down to the saw cuts. Leave the front and back flat.

Take one of the timberheads and cut it lengthways to leave half a timberhead 3mm wide. Glue the whole timberhead 2mm from the end of the bulwark. Glue the half timberhead so that the cut face is flush with the end of the cross-section.

Paint the timberheads, capping strip and end of the bulwark black. Do not paint the cut face of the half timberhead.

Making the pin rails and kevels - Both bulwarks have a rack of belaying pins, plus a kevel – a stout wooden belaying point.

Cut a 22mm length of 1.5x5mm strip. Drill five 1.5mm diameter holes, spaced 4.5mm apart, slightly nearer one side than the other. Radius the outside corners a little.

Bevel the straight edge so that the pinrail will sit horizontally when fitted to the angled face of the bulwark. Glue this in place, 5mm from the top of the bulwark and 1mm from the aft end of the bulwark.

Protect the deck with masking tape. Paint the pinrail and the face of the bulwark with yellow ochre.

To make each kevel, cut a 15mm and a 9mm length of 1.5x4mm strip .Glue the two strips together, with the bottom ends flush.

Taper the single thickness in towards the point where the layers meet. Then taper the double thickness to the end. Bevel the bottom end of the kevel. Then paint the kevel black, and add glue it to the bulkhead in the position shown.

Repeat the process on the other side of the hull.

Adding the bulwark mouldings - Finish off the bulwarks with straight and curved trim strips and a cap rail.

Cut a 1x1mm strip to fit along the bottom of the bulwark. Paint it black and glue it in place. Bend the last 10mm of a 50mm length of 1x1mm strip using an electric plank bender, or a domestic iron set on high.

Paint this strip black and glue it to the bulwark as shown. Trim the upper end flush with the end of the model.

Take a length of 2x10mm strip and mark a length to fit from the forward end of the bulkhead to the aft face of the model. Cut this piece to length. Make a shallow saw cut 5mm from the front end, and another 2mm from the aft end. Make a third cut halfway between these two.
Place the bulwark cap in position as shown and mark the position of the bulwark with a pencil. Then paint the bottom and edges black, leaving the contact area unpainted.
Glue the bulwark cap in position in place, with the 2mm slot overhanging the timberheads. Make sure the long edges overhang the planking equally on the inner and outer faces. Then sand a radius on the front edge of the bulwark cap.

Complete the other bulwark in a similar way.

Making the main mast pin rails - The pinrail posts on the real ship have three slots, but this is very hard to reproduce at this scale. The steps show a simplified version with only two slots, but you can make three slots each 0.5mm wide if you wish.

Cut two 20mm lengths from a 4x5mm strip, then mark the posts as shown in the cutting plan.

Mark one 5mm face of the strips using the dimensions given on the left. Drill 1mm holes at the top and bottom of the slots. Cut between the holes with a sharp, pointed craft knife to form slots. (You can omit the cutting of the slots if you prefer, and simply paint the slots with black paint using a fine brush).
Sand or scrape off the pencil marks around the slots. Make shallow saw cuts on all four sides at the top line. Then taper the top down to this point.
Cut a slot 2mm wide and 1mm deep between the remaining marks to take the rail. Make a second post in the same way.

Cut a 55mm-long length of 2x3mm wood, and mark the centre. Make five pencil marks, each 3mm apart, on both sides of the centre, until you have 11 in total. Once again, the real Victory has more pin holes than this (17) but at this scale, this risks weakening the rail too much. Drill 1.5mm holes at the pencil marks.

Stain the parts with walnut wood stain. Use superglue to glue the posts in the rear outboard corners of the deck openings, with the pinrail slots facing aft. Make sure that the posts are straight and upright. Glue the pinrail in place across the slots.

Paint the belaying pins provided with Issue 148 black or a dark wood colour, and fix them into all three pinrails using tiny drops of superglue.

That's it for this stage, carefully store the remaining parts.


The final Issue 150 - Contains wooden strips, companionway strips, ballast, brass nameplate and entry port canopy castings, and has instructions for fitting the wriggles & fenders, adding the mouldings & scrolls, fitting the entry ports, making the side ladders, painting the hull, adding the chainwales, making the gun port lids, finishing the cross-section, adding the companionway ladder, rigging the chainwales, adding the hammock cranes & netting, adding the hammock rolls, adding the barrels & ballast, and finishing the stand.



In general, the steps describe only one side of the model. Mirror all the instructions to complete the other side of the model.

Carefully follow the magazine steps to complete the following:

Fitting the wriggles and fenders - Start by adding these external features to the hull planking. The wriggles were provided with Issue 149 and the strips of wood came with Issues 149 and 147.

Adding mouldings and scrolls - There are narrow mouldings with a scroll on the end along the bottom of the bulwark on each side of the ship

Fitting the entry ports - The two entry ports are both made from three metal castings – two side pieces and canopy.

Making the side ladders - Rows of steps are fitted to the side of the ship, running up to the entry port and bulwarks

Painting the hull - Paint the basic yellow and black stripes at this stage. You will add detail later. (Currently the lower hull of Victory is painted black and its copper tiles removed. If you want to depict the coppering below the waterline, use any of the techniques explained in Issue 66).

Adding the chainwales - The laser-cut chainwales were provided with Issue 144, the two sizes of deadeyes with Issue 148 and the metal fittings with Issues 148 and 149. Assemble and fit the deadeyes as shown.

Making the gun port lids - There are two gun port lids per side, as only the lower deck has them fitted.
Only one example is shown in detail in the steps, but it is best to make and fit all four lids in one go.

Finishing the cross-section - With the outside of the hull completed, you can add the irons to the knees on the ends of the crosssection, then finish the exposed rib frames to enhance the effect of taking a slice through the ship’s hull.

Adding the companionway ladder - Assemble and fit the ladder that runs up from the orlop to the lower gun deck.

Rigging the chainwales - Complete the chainwales by fitting the eyebolts to which the running rigging was attached.

Adding hammock cranes and netting - Fit the photo-etched brass hammock cranes onto the bulwark caps, and add the netting that holds the hammocks in place. You can then choose whether or not to add the hammock rolls, as shown opposite

Adding hammock rolls - If you are modelling the ship by day and haven’t slung hammocks below deck, you will want to depict the daytime rig, when the bedding was rolled and stowed in the hammock nets

Adding barrels and ballast - Stack spare barrels from earlier issues around the hold where the ship’s stores were carried. Then add the fine grit supplied to simulate the gravel that stabilized the cargo and balanced the ship. (If you wish, you can heap more ballast in front of the riders, sealing it with diluted PVA).

Finishing the stand - Stain or paint the display stand in a colour of your choice. Paint the nameplate black, then clean the raised lettering and border to reveal the brass finish.

Glue the nameplate onto the stand and add strips of felt onto the support edges to protect the model.


This completes the HMS Victory Cross-section model.
Tomick attached the following image(s):
X149-1.JPG
X149-2.JPG
X149-3.JPG
X149-4.JPG
X149-5.JPG
X149-6.JPG
X149-7.JPG
X149-8.JPG
X149-9.JPG
X149-10.JPG
X149-11.JPG
X149-12.JPG
X149-13.JPG
X149-14.JPG
X149-15.JPG
X149-16.JPG
X149-16A.JPG
X149-17A.JPG
X149-17B.JPG
X149-18.JPG
X150-1.JPG
X150-2.JPG
X150-3.JPG
X150-4.JPG
X150-5.JPG
X150-5a.JPG
X150-6.JPG
X150-7.JPG
X150-8.JPG
X150-9.JPG
X150-10.JPG
X150-11.JPG
X150-12.JPG
X150-13.JPG
X150-14.JPG
X150-15.JPG
X150-16.JPG
X150-17.JPG
X150-18.JPG
X150-19.JPG
X150-20.JPG
X150-21.JPG
X150-22.JPG
X150-23.JPG
X150-24.JPG
X150-25.JPG
X150-26.JPG
X150-27.JPG
X150-28.JPG
X150-29.JPG
X150-30.JPG
X150-31.JPG
X150-32.JPG
Users browsing this topic
Guest
Forum Jump  
You cannot post new topics in this forum.
You cannot reply to topics in this forum.
You cannot delete your posts in this forum.
You cannot edit your posts in this forum.
You cannot create polls in this forum.
You cannot vote in polls in this forum.

Powered by YAF | YAF © 2003-2009, Yet Another Forum.NET
This page was generated in 0.282 seconds.
DeAgostini