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Official HMS Victory Build Diary - Issues 6-10 Options
Tomick
#1 Posted : 04 May 2010 10:47:18

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Issue 6, the start of Victory's 34ft Launch

When gluing the two base rails onto the jig, ensure that the jig is weighted so that it sits flat/without twist or bow whilst the glue dries.

Before gluing the frames into the jig, gently sand the edge of each frame but without changing the profile shape, then check fit of each frame in to the jig, if need be carefully open-out any slots in the jig using a needle file, when gluing the frames, ensure each frame is fully seated into its slot, and that each is set at 90 degrees vertical to the jig base.

Frame 16 should be located so that its horizontal line on the outside, you'll also need to slightly bevel the rear edge of frame 16 to allow it to slope forward onto the slope of support 15.

Very important: When installing the two #3 former parts, only apply glue to their tabs, (the two #3 parts are temp planking formers and will be removed once they have served their purpose), also do not glue any planking onto the two #3 former's, i.e. the planking is to lay across the two #3 formers unglued.

Set the frame assembly aside and carefully store the remaining parts for use in future issues.

Here's a link to Victory's ship's boats

http://www.hms-victory.c...m_content&task=view

Tomick attached the following image(s):
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Tomick
#2 Posted : 10 May 2010 12:32:23

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Issue 7, more frames for the hull and part 2 of building the Launch.

Gently sand the edges of the frames, being careful not to alter the profile shape.

Assemble frames #18 & #19 (panel #18 carried over from issue 4), when dry you can test fit the frames into the Keel, though at this stage you should not glue either into the Keel, store the frames on a flat surface.

The glue should be fully dry before you tackle the sanding of the Launch frames, your looking to create a flowing surface for the planks to adhere to and create the shape, be careful not to sand away the step at either end of each frame.

Planking of the Launch, an electric plank bender makes the bending thin planks a breeze, though the same can be achieved with the steam method as described in the magazine, superglue gel is great for securing the thin planks into place, though it is very important that none of the planks are glued to the two #3 planking formers!

Ensure the first two planks on either side of the hull sit into the frame slots, and apply the planks alternately, and as you approach the keel you'll find that the planks will need to be carefully tapered to fit, try and keep the planks as tight as possible.
When done, gently sand the the hull to remove any high spots, but being very careful not to sand though the planks, and then apply the a single plank strip into the slots to complete the hull planking, though you should not separate the hull from the jig until the planking is thoroughly dry!

Then using side cutters or a razor saw, carefully cut away the jig, but don't cut too close to the planking, and at the stern ensure the cut is above the line on the transom, any excess will be trimmmed later, note that the two #3 planking formers should fall away with the jig.

Stage 3 of building the Launch is continued in issue 8.

Tomick attached the following image(s):
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Tomick
#3 Posted : 17 May 2010 12:28:51

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Issue 8, more Frames and stage 3 of the Launch build.

Gently sand the edges of frame parts 20/21, being careful not to alter the profile shape, then assemble the frames, when dry you can test fit the frames into the Keel, but at this stage don't glue them into the Keel, store the frames on a flat surface.

The remaining surplus of the Launch frames is carefully cut away, and the top of the frames cut at a 45 degree angle, and the surplus of the Transom cut across at the marked line, then smooth the frame tops.

Test fit the Keel and if nee be gently sand the hull to remove any high spots before gluing the Keel into place, which follows the centre line of the hull, and when fully dry remove the Keel excess hanging over the transom, being careful that it is sanded flush with the same angle of the Transom.

Then add the two rubbing strips, one either side of the hull, which are cut and formed from one of the spare planking, sand to shape and slightly bend to meet with the curve of the hull, then glue into place.

You can now finish the hull exterior, fill any imperfections and sand to a smooth finish, but being careful not to remove too much material as the planks are very thin!

If painting, you can now prime the outside of the hull, or wait until after the Oar slots are cut at stage 4 of the Launch build (issue 9).


Tomick attached the following image(s):
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Tomick
#4 Posted : 24 May 2010 10:28:37

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Issue 9, stage 4 of the Launch build.

Many parts supplied this week, carefully store what is not needed.

Time to cut the 16 Oar slots - Mark the positions as shown in the steps, being aware of each slot location and ensuring the slots are evenly spaced, then apply a strip of masking tape along both sides of the hull, which is set 1mm down from the top edge, this is to create a uniform slot depth, then carefully cut each oar slot using a needle file.

Add part #19 (bow brace)- Position this part so that it sits approx 3mm down into the hull, when dry you can fill what remains of the slot at its front.

Time to Prime and Paint - First prime the hull and then apply the topcoat, the interior of the Hull is (yellow ochre), and the exterior as per that shown in magazine, follow the steps for how to create the banding which is a simple step-by-step process of masking and painting, Tamiya masking tape is ideal for this task,(the black band on my build is 2mm wide).

The Launch Anchor - Using a needle file remove any mould lines from the anchor parts, then glue the anchor stock onto the anchor shaft, ensuring that the stock sits squarely in all planes, then paint metallic black.


Tomick attached the following image(s):
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Tomick
#5 Posted : 01 June 2010 10:48:23

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Issue 10, stage 5 of the Launch build and adding the final Keel section.

Lightly sand the edges of the frame parts being careful not to alter the shape, carefully store mast support #6.

Install the final Keel section as per the Steps, (it is very imortant that the entire length of the keel runs perfectly straight), ensure that neither Brace encroach into the slot/frame space ether side of the Keel joint, and that both braces are level with the top of the Keel.

Don't glue any of the frames into the Keel at this point.

Continuing with the Launch build, the inside of the hull should be painted before adding the Floorboards, Duckboards and Thwart supports, you'll need the 1x3mm strips, 0.6x3mm strips, 2x mesh grids (Duckboards,) and the mast supplied within issue 9.

If you've opted for the painted finish, you should paint the Floorboards before assembly.

The Floorboard section is made up from nine 1x3mm wood strips, cut four boards to length as shown in the photo, the central board is laid in two sections, the gap between the two sections is for Mast location, trial fit the mast for a snug fit, when happy glue the boards into place, and as you progress to the outer you'll need to shape the outer boards to suit the curve of the hull.

Fitting the Thwart rails, these are made from two 0.6x3mm strips, again if you've opted for the painted finish these should be painted before placement. Cut each strip to length and glue at each frame contact point.

Fitting of the Duckboards, mark around the two Duckboards onto paper which will be used as a cutting template, cut the paper to shape. Trial fit the temoplates into the Launch, carefully mark and cut the paper where necessary, then lay each Duckboard onto the templates and cut the Duckboards to shape, check the fit and then paint both metallic black, though apply the paint thinly to avoid clogging the grids, when dry glue both Duckboards into the Launch.





Tomick attached the following image(s):
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#6 Posted : 16 June 2010 11:53:29
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