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Official HMS Sovereign of the Seas Build Diary - Issues 71 - 75 Options
Tomick
#1 Posted : 09 January 2014 18:14:28
Rank: Administration
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Issue 71 - Contains the rudder, sapele strips, hinges, pin-nails and brass rod.

Smooth the edges of the rudder then take the 0.6x5x300mm sapele strips, glue lengths in place to cover the left side of the rudder with the strips set lengthways.

Trim the outline of the rudder, eliminating the bits of strip that go over the edges, and open the notches.

Then repeat to cover the right-hand side of the rudder with sapele strips. When the glue has fully dried, smooth the surfaces with a fine-grained sanding-block.

Use a razor saw, accentuate the joints between the strips, making three surface grooves on both sides of the rudder parallel to the longer side.

Cover 46mm of the rudder head with masking tape, then paint the exposed surface with the same ivory white paint that you used on the bottom of the hull. Remove the tape, then, coat the inside edge of the rudder head with sapele colured paint.

Take five hinges, and without using glue, arrange put them in place on the rudder, aligning them the top edge of the notches. Cut the five hinges to fit, using the step photo as reference. The length of the hinges increases progressively from the top downwards. These are know as the pintles.

Drill two holes in the first pintle from the top. The holes should be 2mm from both ends and be wide enough to take a nail.
Take the hull, place the rudder against the sternpost, aligning it with the keel. Mark the position of the lower edges of the notches in the rudder on the hull with a pencil.

Paint all of the hinges metallic black or use a brass blackening fluid. Paint the pintles to be be fixed on the rudder, and the five hinges that you will fix on the sternpost. These are known as gudgeons.

Take the brass rod that came with this issue and cut five 6mm long pieces, which you will use as the pintle pins on the rudder. Insert a 6mm pin in a pintle, fixing it with a drop of metal glue. Then insert the end of the pin that protrudes from the pintle into a gudgeon.

Use pliers to squeeze the arms of the pintle and the gudgeon around the pin. Assemble the other four pintles of the rudder, repeating the steps taken for the first.

Before starting to add the pintles onto the rudder, shorten the nails to prevent them protruding on the opposite side. Put the first pintle on the rudder. Fix it to the rudder with a nail in each hole. In a similar fashion, fix the other four pintles to the rudder, each in its recess.

Next is to join the rudder to the hull. Bring it close to the sternpost, aligning the gudgeons with the pencil marks made ealier. Fix it by putting nails in the holes.

Note - There is a ring/eyebolt shortage (two of each) for the rudder. These will be provided in Issue 125, allowing you to fit 5 rings/eyebolts onto the rudder.

Finish them with burnishing fluid as before. Then after enlarging each ring with pliers, insert an eyebolt into it, then close it.

Make six 0.5 mm holes on the stern of the hull indicated by the red circles, following the measurements shown. Glue an eyebolt with a ring inside each hole.

Future issues:

Issue 72 - Contains wooden strips, lasser sides, hinges, brass shileds and rudder decorations.

Issue 73 - Contains diecast columns for the left-hand side galleries, a gun kit and a wood strip shaping tool.

Issue 74 - Contains diecast columns for the right-hand side galleries and a wooden strip.

Issue 75 - Contains forecastle parapets & gunwales, shield decals, round frames, wooden strips and a crew figurine.

Issue 76 - Contains wooden strips, quarterdeck gunwales and decorations for the left-hand side quarter gallery.
Tomick attached the following image(s):
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Tomick
#2 Posted : 14 January 2014 13:50:25
Rank: Administration
Build-Diary Medal: Build-Diary Medal of HonourPublisher Medal: Article published MedalActive Service Medal: 500 post active service MedalPurple Medal: Super active service medal for 1000 postsRed Medal: Red MedalTurquoise Medal: Turquoise Medal for model making know-how contribution
Groups:

Joined: 08/03/2010
Posts: 19,138
Points: 53,391
Location: UK
Issue 72 - Contains wooden strips, lasser sides, hinges, brass shileds and rudder decorations.

Take the fret with the brass shields and shield decals that you received with Issue 62.

Cut six shields from the fret and use a fine file to smooth the burrs, (carefully store the remaining shields).

Using tweezers, soak the decal backing paper in a bowl of lukewarm water for 20-30 seconds until the decal starts to slide easily, (do not allow the shields to float from the backing), then quickly apply a decal to each of shields, (do not touch the adhesive on the back of the decals), then use a soft tissue or cotton bud to remove any excess water from the surface once the decal once it is in place. (For improved decal adhesion, before applying the decals, coat the shields with clear gloss varnish, then apply the decals after it is fully dry).

Glue the six shields onto the left-hand gallery side, in the positions shown in the instructions.

Rudder decoration:

Take the three pieces of the lion’s head decoration, use a fine file to smooth any irregularities, then check the fit of the three parts together.

Paint the pieces with metal primer, paint them gold and then glue the parts togther. Glue the decoration on the head of the rudder. It should be positioned just below the eyebolts that you attached in the previous assembly session.

Making the ladders:

Take the four sidebands and the 1x5x 300mm strip you received with this issue. Take a left-hand and a right-hand sideband and cut both to a length of 21mm. Smooth the two sidebands with fine-grained sandpaper, then stain them with a walnut.

Cut four 9mm-long pieces from the 1x5x300mm strip. These are the step treads of the first ladder. Fix the four steps in the grooves on the inside of one of the two sidebands, checking that they are a right angle to the sideband and parallel to one another.
Complete the ladder by fixing the other sideband on the free end of the steps.

Repeat to amke a second ladder.

Glue the ladders at the left and right-hand sides on the poop deck, as shown in the instructions, they must be flush with the planking of the upper quarterdeck and close to the right-hand gunwale of the deck.

Making the stern 'chaser' gun port lids:

Take the 0.6x4x300mm strip that you received with this issue. Cut 12, 12mm-long pieces from the 0.6x4x300mm strip.

Put a 6mm-wide strip of masking tape on the stern of the model, just above the black band in which the eyebolts with rings are fixed.

The four stern chaser gun ports have closed lids. Two lids must be placed on each side of the midline of the stern, following the measurements shown in the instructions.

The stern chaser gunports have closed lids, the lids are made from three pieces of 12mm strip, arranged horizontally.

Glue the 12 pieces of 12mm strip to make the four gunport lids. Allow the glue to dry, then give them a coat of clear matt varnish.

Take one of the 0.6x 5x300mm sapele strips that came with Issue 71. Cover the area of the stern that lacks the second planking. Trim the pieces of strip carefully, aligning them with the side profile of the hull.

Cut the eight brass hinges from the fret that came with this issue. Smooth any irregularities with a fine file, then use brass blackening fluid to blacken them, or paint them metallic black.

Glue two hinges on each of the four gunport lids. The hinges should be parallel to the upper edges of the gunports.

Future issues:

Issue 73 - Contains diecast columns for the left-hand side galleries, a gun kit and a wood strip shaping tool.

Issue 74 - Contains diecast columns for the right-hand side galleries and a wooden strip.

Issue 75 - Contains forecastle parapets & gunwales, shield decals, round frames, wooden strips and a figurine.

Issue 76 - Contains wooden strips, quarterdeck gunwales and decorations for the left-hand side quarter gallery.

Issue 77 - Contains a crew figurine, figurehead platform and decorations for the right-hand side quarter gallery.
Tomick attached the following image(s):
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Tomick
#3 Posted : 17 January 2014 10:34:54
Rank: Administration
Build-Diary Medal: Build-Diary Medal of HonourPublisher Medal: Article published MedalActive Service Medal: 500 post active service MedalPurple Medal: Super active service medal for 1000 postsRed Medal: Red MedalTurquoise Medal: Turquoise Medal for model making know-how contribution
Groups:

Joined: 08/03/2010
Posts: 19,138
Points: 53,391
Location: UK
Issue 73 - Contains diecast columns for the left-hand side galleries, a gun kit and a wood strip shaping tool.

File away any irregularities from the 12 columns of the left-hand side galleries (PL13). The coat them with metal primer and paint them gold.

Glue the PL13 coulmns under the lower frame T8 of the left-hand side gallery, aligning them with the columns above.

Assemble and finish the cannon in your chosen guise, then assemble the blocks as shown in the instructions and fit the blocks with the double loop onto the gun carriage eyebolts.

Store the gun and remaining blocks for future use, along with the tool and wooden strip.

Future issues:

Issue 74 - Contains diecast columns for the right-hand side galleries and a wooden strip.

Issue 75 - Contains forecastle parapets & gunwales, shield decals, round frames, wooden strips and a figurine.

Issue 76 - Contains wooden strips, quarterdeck gunwales and decorations for the left-hand side quarter gallery.

Issue 77 - Contains a crew figurine, figurehead platform and decorations for the right-hand side quarter gallery.

Issue 78 - Contains parts to make the lower mainmast fighting top and crosstree parts.
Tomick attached the following image(s):
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Tomick
#4 Posted : 29 January 2014 15:46:58
Rank: Administration
Build-Diary Medal: Build-Diary Medal of HonourPublisher Medal: Article published MedalActive Service Medal: 500 post active service MedalPurple Medal: Super active service medal for 1000 postsRed Medal: Red MedalTurquoise Medal: Turquoise Medal for model making know-how contribution
Groups:

Joined: 08/03/2010
Posts: 19,138
Points: 53,391
Location: UK
Issue 74 - Contains diecast columns for the right-hand side galleries & transom and a wooden strip.

File any burrs from all of the 22 diecast columns. Then coat them with metal primer, then paint them gold.

The illustration in the instructions shows the plan to follow when fixing the columns on the lower part of the
transom.

Fix 12 PL13 columns under the lower frame T1 of the righthand side gallery of your model with metal glue, aligning them with the columns above.

Folow the plan to glue two PL16 columns below the lower frame of the transom. Make sure they are aligned with the columns above.

Then glue two PL15 columns ext to those just placed, making sure they are aligned with the columns above.

Glue two PL14 columns one on each side next to the ones just placed, again making sure that they are aligned with those of the row immediately above.

Take the remaining four PL13 columns and fix them, two on each side, under the lower frame of the transom, in the position shown in the plan, aligning them with those above.

Gallery edging:

Take two 2x3x300mm birch strips, one which came with this issue and one that came with your previous issue. Also, take the shaping tool that you received with Issue 73.

You may want to practice the method on some scrap wood strip first before attempting the strip allocated to the task.

Smooth the two strips, then insert one of the strips in the groove in the middle of the longest side of the shaping tool. Using slight pressure, scrape the tool along the strip to remove a small amount of material. Repeat the scraping operation several times, until the strip is shaped as shown in the instructions.

Go over the strip with a fine square file, eliminating any irregularities. Then, smooth it with fine-grained sandpaper.

Shape the second 2x3x300mm strip in a similar fashion. Then coat both shaped strips with wood primer then paint them gold.

Put a strip on the bottom edge of the first gallery on the left-hand side. Cut the strip to size and glue it below the columns PL13 with the shaped edge facing outwards.

Complete the edge of the frame, by cutting a piece of shaped strip to fit and gluing it into position at the corner.

Cut the second shaped strip to fit and fix it on the bottom edge of the first gallery of the right-hand side of the hull. Finish the corner as you did with the strip on the left-hand gallery.

Cut a piece of shaped strip to fit and glue it below the columns that you mounted on the transom in Steps 7 to 10.

This completed this stage, caefuly store any remaining parts and the shaping tool.


Future issues:

Issue 75 - Contains forecastle parts and gunwales, shield decals, round frames, wooden strips and a figurine.

Issue 76 - Contains wooden strips, quarterdeck gunwales and decorations for the left-hand side quarter gallery.

Issue 77 - Contains a crew figurine, figurehead platform and decorations for the right-hand side quarter gallery.

Issue 78 - Contains parts to make the lower mainmast fighting top and crosstree parts.

Issue 79 - Contains parts to make the middle and upper mainmast fighting top and crosstree parts.

Issue 80 - Contains transom supports, blocks and steel wire.
Tomick attached the following image(s):
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Tomick
#5 Posted : 06 February 2014 16:09:19
Rank: Administration
Build-Diary Medal: Build-Diary Medal of HonourPublisher Medal: Article published MedalActive Service Medal: 500 post active service MedalPurple Medal: Super active service medal for 1000 postsRed Medal: Red MedalTurquoise Medal: Turquoise Medal for model making know-how contribution
Groups:

Joined: 08/03/2010
Posts: 19,138
Points: 53,391
Location: UK
Issue 75 - Contains forecastle parts and gunwales, shield decals, round frames, wooden strips and a figurine.

Take the transfers that came with this issue and the die with the six brass shields from Issue 72. Cut the six remaining shields from the fret, and set the decals in place on the shilds as before.

Fix the six stern shields with metal glue on the right-hand side of the hull, in the position shown in the photo, making sure that you follow the order shown.

Take the fret with the pieces of the forecastle parapets and gunwales, cut the 14 pieces from the fret, then smooth any irregularities. Then coat parts 130, 132, 134, 136 and 137 with a walnut stain.

Take the gunwales 129. Paint one face of a piece black and the other red. Paint the other piece the same way. Be careful, the gunwales must be symmetrical.

Take pieces 131 and 133 and paint them black.

Take the parapet 130 and fix it with glue on the upper edge of the rear bulkhead of the forecastle.

Glue the two pieces 131 into the slots at the rear ends of the gunwales 129. Make sure that the pieces are set at right angles.

Fix the pieces 132 at the base of the red (inside) faces of the bulwarks 129. Check the photo for the position of the holes in pieces 132. The pieces must be at a right angle to one another.

Complete the two gunwales 129 by fixing the pieces 133 at their front ends. Again, the pieces must be at right-angles to one another.

When assembled correctly, the gunwales of the forecastle will look as shown in the two photos.

Paint the 1.5x1.5x300mm strip that came with this issue a sapele colour. When dry, apply a coat of clear matt varnish. Finally, cut some pieces 14mm long.

Glue the 14mm pieces on the forecastle gunwales, setting them at right angles into the holes of pieces 132.

Glue the two gunwales on the edges of the forecastle planking.

Take piece 134 and glue it 2mm away from the front edge of the forecastle planking.

Take piece 135 (the front parapet of the forecastle). Paint one face of the piece black and the other red to match the red of the hull.

Glue the front parapet 135 on the forecastle, placing it in front of piece 134 and flush with the forward bulkhead below. The forward bulkhead and the front parapet of the forecastle, the two pieces must be at the same angle.

Make a series of 14mm-long pieces from the 3x3x300mm strips. Glue a piece on the vertical edge of the front parapet of the forecastle.

Glue a second piece of strip next to the previous one. Continue to fix the strips, following the curved outline of piece 134 to fill the space between the parapet and the gunwale.

On the other side of the hull, build a wall of strips between the parapet and the gunwale similar, to the one that you just made.
With a fine-grained sanding-block, smooth and finish the two walls, carefully removing any irregularities, then paint the outer faces of the two walls black and the inner ones red. If necessary, retouch the joins between the forecastle gunwale and the straking of the hull.

Take pieces 136 and 137 and glue them on the upper edges of the gunwales and the forecastle parapet, centring them accurately.

This completes this stage, carefully store any remaining parts.

Future issues:

Issue 76 - Contains wooden strips, quarterdeck gunwales and decorations for the left-hand side quarter gallery.

Issue 77 - Contains a crew figurine, figurehead platform and decorations for the right-hand side quarter gallery.

Issue 78 - Contains parts to make the lower mainmast fighting top and crosstree parts.

Issue 79 - Contains parts to make the middle and upper mainmast fighting top and crosstree parts.

Issue 80 - Contains transom suports, blocks and steel wire.

Issue 81 - Contains die cast stern decorations & horse figurehead, along with stern flagpole parts.

Tomick attached the following image(s):
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